Full text of "Views of Louisiana : together with a journal of a voyage up the Missouri River, in 1811"

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OF LOUISIANA;

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WITH A JOURNAL

OF A

VOYAGE UP THE MISSOURI RIVER, IK 1811,

BY H. M. BRACKEKRIDGE, es^,

■-.

PITTSBURGH,

PRINTED ANre PUfiLISHET BY CRAMER, SPEAR ANTD EICHBAUM*

Franklin head office.

1814.

DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, rowtt:

It*

BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-fourth day
of November, in the thirty-eighth year of the Independence of
the United States of America, A.D. 1813, Henry M. Brack¬
en ridge, of the said District, hath deposited in this office the
Title of a Book, the right whereof he claims as Author— in
the words foilowing, to wit:

M Views op Louisiana; together with a journal

OF A VOYAGE UP THE MISSOURI RIVER, IN 1811. By H.

M. Brackenridge, esq.”

In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United
States, intituled, “ An Act for the encouragement of Learning,
by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the
Authors and Proprietors of such copies during the times
therein mentioned.” — And also to the Act, entitled, u An Act
supplementary to an Act, entitled, “ An Act for the encourage¬
ment of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and
Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies during
the times therein mentioned,” and extending the benefits
thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching histori¬
cal and other prints.”

D. CALDWELL,

CLERK OF THE DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA".

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C..I

TO THE READER

IN the spring* of 1810, 1 landed at New Madrid in Upper Louisiana,
and proceeded from thence by land to St. Genevieve, with the inten¬
tion of settling myself in some part of the territory as a lawyer. But
finding after a short residence, that prospects of success in that part
of the world, were not such as I could have wished, I resolved to em¬
ploy the time I should remain there, in making obseiwations and re¬
marks on such things as appeared most worthy of attention. I was in
a short time, pleased with the employment, which drew me into a more
extensive research than I had at first contemplated, and gave rise to a
degree of earnestness in a pursuit, to which I had before been almost
a stranger; my studies having been chiefly directed to abstract subjects,
to history, belles lettres, and to those in some way connected with my
profession

In the winter of 1811, 1 published at St. Louis, the capital of Upper
Louisiana, a series of essays descriptive of the country, many of which
were reprinted in periodical papers in the states, and spoken of in terms
of approbation. It were needless to declare how gratifying this was to
my feelings, or, as the reader will choose to think, to my vanity. In
the hevday of youth, when the mind is filled with romantic conceits,
there is nothing so pleasant as this taste of fame. It is however, some¬
times productive of dangerous effects, for where this first manifesta¬
tion of applause, does not intoxicate the brain and paralize the ener¬
gies, causing the infatuated being to believe, that he has already ar-*
rived at the highest degree of earthly honors, it is apt to confirm one
in that pursuit, where accident may have crowned him with success.— f
Hence, I have been in no small danger of becoming* an author, perhaps
an indifferent one : a professed author in our country, alas ! is pitiable in¬
deed. A mere abstract man, without any degree of importance, or con¬
sequence, attached to him ; he is not ranked as having any employ¬
ment in the state, ecclesiastical, civil, or military, and necessarily takes
up his abode next door to starvation. It has been supposed by some
of my friends who read my essays in the public prints, that I had in re¬
ality relinquished my profession, and that I was wandering about the

[ 4 ]

Western country, writing geography, philosophy, history, and the Lord
knows what; but, I thank heaven, I have had sufficient firmness to re¬
sist this temptation to prove a recreant to the delightful pages of my
Lord Coke, to the erudite commentator, Blackstone, or to neglect my
new friends, the code of Justinian, and commentators thereon, the Por-
ti.das, the ordonnarices of Bilbao, and Domat.

During the winter before mentioned, I became acquainted with Mr.
Bradbury, Fellow of the Linnean Society ; a gentleman as distinguish¬
ed for his agreeable manners, sound understanding, and general sci¬
ence, as for his attainments in the department of natural history. My
acquaintance with him naturally nourished the fondness X bad begun to
feel for the subjects treated of in this volume. In the spring following,
this gentleman set off to ascend the Missouri in the party of Mr. Wil¬
son P. Hunt, for the purpose of pursuing his researches in those unfre¬
quented regions. Shortly after his departure, Mr. Manuel Lisa, one
of the members of the Missouri Fur Company, ascended with a small
party, for the purpose of retrieving the affairs of the company, which
had become considerably deranged : being solicited by this gentleman
to accompany him, my wish to visit those countries was so strong, that
I did not hesitate, notwithstanding that there was much to be feared
from the hostilities of the Indians, who of late had been unfriendly to
the whites ; in so much, that it was generally supposed, that even the
considerable party of Mr. Hunt would not be able to make its way
through the Sioux bands. The pleasure of being in company with Mr
Bradbury, whom we expected to overtake, was not a light considera¬
tion I accordingly ascended, and after an absence of four or fiv<?
months, returned to St. Louis, with two boats loaded with furs and pel¬
try of the company, placed under my command. Remaining at St. Louis
until the month of November, l embarked for New Orleans, where I ar¬
rived in December 1811, Here I met with one of the publishers of
this work, Mr. Cramer, and proposed to him the publication of the es¬
says before mentioned, with the journal of my voyage up the Missou¬
ri ; to which he assented, on condition that I would extend it, and add
something relative to the state of Louisiana.

Such is the history of the volume now offered to the public, respect¬
ing which, I have observed with regret, that expectations have been
excited, much beyond its real importance. I say regret, because those
expectations, will most probably be disappointed, if, instead of the cur¬
sory observations of an ordinary traveller, the reader shall look for a
complete and scientific account of Louisiana, emulating the famed pro¬
ductions of Depons, Molini, or Humboldt.

The extensive country which constitutes the subject of these essays,
although, one of the most interesting portions of the new world, ap-

L * 3

pears to have been amongst the last in becoming known. The Spa¬
niards, who possessed it from 1769, until after 1800, cannot be said to
have done any thingto wards its further discovery. The French, who were
first settlers, had made considerable progress in exploring it, but those
exploring parties originating principally with private individuals, un¬
supported by the government, or any wealthy society, were consequent¬
ly neither sufficiently extensive nor accurate. It is a singular fact, that
so great a portion of it, should to this day remain an entire blank on
the map, and that there should be no correct standard work, to refer
to, for knowledge of a country inhabited by Europeans for more than
ond hundred years. A few writers, such as Charlevoix, Du Pratz, Du¬
mont, de la Harpe, &c collected the materials furnished by a variety
of individuals, who passed over different parts of it, and formed their
books by joining to them the observations made by themselves ; but
they were unfortunately too ready to receive all the falsehoods with
which they were fraught. In fact, but little was accurately known of
this country, until it fell into the possession of the United States. Be¬
sides the observations of a number of individuals, there have been some
exploring expeditions sanctioned and equipped by the government;
these are too well known to require enumeration. The sources of the
Mississippi, Missouri, Arkansas, lied river, Washita, and of White river,
are known to the world for the firsbtime. In the course of the last eight
or ten years, such a number of authentic accounts have appeared, that
the time may be regarded as not distant, when the geographer will be
able to speak of Louisiana with as much certainty, as of any other part of
the United States. The materials for its history have also been augment¬
ed : a variety of facts, scattered through the pages of writers almost ob¬
solete, or of transactions known but to tradition, have been carefully
collected and preserved. I have no higher aim in these (S Views,” than
to be considered one of those who furnish materials for abler hands.
Mr. William Darby, to whom I am indebted for the statistical view
and table, has been engaged for a number of years in preparing an ela¬
borate work on Louisiana. Possessing strong original genius, with con
siderable acquirements, and indefatigable industry, the public may ex¬
pect something substantially useful in his labors. He has already al¬
most completed, from actual survey, a map of the new state of Louisi¬
ana; a work of vast difficulty and labor, from the strange configura
tion of the country, being cut up, and infinitely diversified, by bayoux,
swamps, lakes, lagoons, and a thousand other objects calculated to im¬
pose difficulties on the undertaking.

It has always appeared to me, that the observations of travellers, if
made with any tolerable degree of accuracy, should rank amongst the
most useful productions, and should, moreover, be entitled to great irk-

[ 6 3

diligence. What can be more pleasing- and instructive than the testima*
ny of eye witnesses, relative to objects of the most interesting- nature*
which we are precluded from visiting- ourselves, or than the remarks
of intelligent persons on what chances to come under their notice dur¬
ing- their peregrinations through distant countries ? In the early ages of
society, travelling from one nation to another, was almost the only-
means of acquiring superior knowledge,

Multorumque hominum urbes, et mores cognovit,

a wise man and a great traveller were regarded as synonymous, and
treated with equal respect. When in the form of narrative, this spe¬
cies of composition has all the attractions of romance, combined with
the usefulness of truth. 1 have always perused the book of travels with
peculiar delight, no matter how aukward its style, or humble the ad¬
venturer. In this kind of writing, the fidelity of truth is far to be pre¬
ferred. to the mere artifice or elegance of diction.* It may be said to be
a species of composition free alike to the illiterate and the learned, re¬
quiring no peculiar and appropriate style ; demanding neither the dig¬
nified march of history, the brilliancy of works* of the imagination, nor
the precision and regularity of those which are purely scientific, yet,
admitting with propriety something of them all. Men of the most com¬
mon acquirements are not excluded, or thought presumptuous in at¬
tempting it, for it may be the fortune of such only, to have witnessed
facts of the highest interest, or to have passed through countries not
likely to be visited by the learned. Hence the various modes adopted
.by tiyivellers, from the regular and sj'stematic essay, down to the sim¬
ple' diary or journal.

Before the reader decides upon this work, he must recollect, that
travels through countries little known, must necessarily be of a differ¬
ent cast from those in countries highly cultivated, and already describ¬
ed by innumerable writers. Instead of amusing incident, descriptions
of manners and customs, characters of distinguished persons, political
and moral refleciio ;,s, historical reminescencp, and a multitude of other
topics, the traveller has only to describe the face of nature, in its prim¬
itive state, the character of a few wandering savages, or the situation
of settlements yet in their infancy. He that would aspire to the high¬
est order of travellers for having traversed such a country, ought to be

* The travels of a Frenchman are bedizened with conceits of the
fancy, those of an Englishman loadc-d with sluggish prejudice. I must
declare (perhaps the result of partiality) that such American travels
as I have perused, have always struck me as more impartial, and coi^
taming a more perfect stamp of authenticity than eith&r.

i 7 ]

a proficient in natural history ; to this I must confess, t have but s1en?
der pretensions Devoted to a profession, which my lord Coke, obser-
veth, “ is a jealous mistress, and will not abide a rival,” I have not been
able to spare the time requisite for such attainment It is with regret
I reflect, that 1 have devoted so much time to this employment, which
was necessarily Withdrawn from my profession, or studies connected
With it. To become a botanist, mineralogist, or geologist, requires long
and undivided attention. I have therefore been compelled to content
myself with admiring merely the face of nature, without attempting- to
analize, or seek out her hidden character. I have dwelt as little in po¬
litical and statistical detail, as on the phenomena of nature, the ‘coun¬
tries through Which I passed affording but little of interest on these to¬
pics. The reader will find here little else, than geographical outlines,
descriptions of the surface of the country, the navigation of rivers, the
nature or quality of soils, the appearance of towns or villages, and
whatever else would be likely to meet the eye of a transient passenger.

The greater part of what is here offered is original, though it will
be seen that I have read what has been written by others, and occasion¬
ally adopted their ideas. In forming a table of the Indian nations,
much of my materials are derived from Gen. Clark, Dr. Sibly, and Pike.
In my observations on the Mississippi, &c. the writings of Mr. Ellicot,
the late Sir William Dunbar, and Dr. Mease, furnished me with hints.

I now lay this volume before the public, with all the reverence and
awe, with which that tribunal is usually approached, feeling consci¬
ous of the temerity of my attempt. It is a tribunal whose attention, in.
the republic of letters, we are all entitled to demand, but if we abuse
it, by exhibiting what proves unworthy of that attention, we are soon
consigned to merited contempt

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VIEWS

LOUISIANA.

IN TWO BOOKS.

CHAPTER 1.

DISCOVERY, AND FIRST SETTLEMENT OF LOUISIANA,

ThE early history of nearly all the colonies planted by Eu¬
ropean nations, on this continent, presents us with a series of
hardships and misfortunes, encountered by the first settlers, and
of injudicious management by those entrusted with their super¬
intendence. From these Louisiana in its first settlement was by
no means exempt, on the contrary they were all experienced
here, m the severest manner. It was not Until after repeated
failures, and the lapse of a century, from the first attempt, that
a colony could take root, and not for half a century more that
it could flourish. It is intended in this imperfect sketch, to pass
those events in review, and as far as in the writer’s power, to de-
velope their causes.

The Spaniards from their establishments in Cuba, and in
Mexico, at an early period became acquainted with the continent
lying opposite the island before mentioned, and had given it the
name of Florida- Under this name, they comprehended and
claimed, east of the province of Penuco, indefinitely, north, east,
and south ; and declared that all the French and English posses¬
sions in America, belonged to Florida, and were unjust Usurpa¬
tions on the dominions appertaining to the crown of Spain.* They

* Kerr of Kerrslands Meitioirs, 1727-~History of European Settle*
ments an. 1775, and Posdethwayte on Commerce, published in 1745.-~»
Don Andres Gonzales de Boreca.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

were, however, by no means the first to take possession, or t©
explore it. The liberal gift of Pope Alexander the sixth, of all
the new world , might be supposed to supersede the necessity of
such formalities.

It is true, that some adventurers’ in the hopes of discovering
in this unexplored region, kingdoms of civilized Indians, and
fired by the success of Cortez, penetrated into the country now
called Louisiana, but were deplorably unsuccessful. These ad¬
venturers the better to obtain followers, had artfully circulated
a story, suited to the superstition of the age, that in this country,
there existed a miraculous fountain, possessing the desirable
qualities of restoring youth, or rendering it perpetual to him'
who should be so fortunate as to bathe himself in its enchanted
Waters. The Spanish expeditions had not for their object the'
taking possession of a wilderness, thinly peopled, by wandering
Indians, of populating and improving, it, but to plunder the na¬
tives of the gold and silver they were supposed to possess : nor
did the world, or even they, become better acquainted with the
country in consequence of their expeditions. Pontio de Leon,
was the first adventurer. In 1512, he penetrated Florida,
at the head of a considerable party, ostensibly in pursuit of the
before mentioned fountain ; but his stay was short, he did not
even build a fort, the natives considering him as an invader, and
opposing him with great ferocity. Thus Pontio, and such of his
men as survived returned home, worn out with the hardships
sustained in the expedition.* In 1520, Vasques de Ayllon, land-
ed and explored the neighbourhood of a river which he called
the Jourdan, in that part of Florida which is now South Caroli¬
na ; but his stay was not long and his success no better than that
of Pontio de Leon. 4 A few years after this, Pamphile de Narvaes,
obtained from the emperor Charles the fifth, the government
of Florida. Narvaes coasted along the northern shore of the
gulph of Mexico, landed several times, had frequent rencoun¬
ters with the Indians, who killed many of his people, and at length
perished miserably himself without having even built a fert.

* History of European Settlement's,

DISCOVERY & SETTLEMENT. — BOOK E

Hernandes de Soto, being afterwards made captain-general
of Florida, in the year 1539 at the head of eight or nine hundred
men landed in this country and penetrated a considerable dis¬
tance into the interior. He continued for several years 'wandering
-in search of gold, of civilized Indians, and of miraculous foun¬
tains ; in the mean time he was much harassed by the natives,
his party was divided and dispersed in small bands, the greater
-part of which, were never afterwards heard of, and finally de
dSoto himself died on the banks of the Mississippi.* The unhap¬
py issue of these successive expeditions, entirely dissuaded ad¬
venturers from any further attempt, until establishments were
formed by the French.

In the year 1523, Verazzani, an Italian mariner, in the ser¬
vice of France, had discovered Florida, but had not attempted
•any settlement. This discovery was not followed up by the French,
owing to the almost total inattention to America, during the
troubled reigns of Francis II, and of Charles IX. The celebrated
■Coligny, desirous of obtaining freedom of religious worship, for
the persecuted sect to which he belonged, conceived the idea of
going in search of the country discovered by Verazzani, and of
planting a colony of protestants: a scheme rather encouraged by
the king who was desirous of chasing off the Hugonots. He cast
his eye upon that part of Florida, which Verazzani, had described
gs most suitable for the establishment of a colony ; for besides
the mildness of the climate, and the fertility of the soil, he fan¬
cied the French would find no one to dispute their tight or even
to trouble them. Jean de Ribaut being chosen by the admiral
to undertake the expedition, set off .the 18th of February 1562.
He first touched at, a place which he called Cape Francois , about
the 30°, of N. lat. and turning to the right he perceived a short
time after, a river which he named la riviere des Dauphins , but

* In the account of this expedition by Herrera, it is mentioned that de
Soto in 1541 reached Mavilla, an Indian to wn enclosed with wooden walls.
He had an engagement there in which 2000 natives were killed and 83
Spaniards, who also lost 45 horses. An Indian village named Chicaca
was burnt. See Amer. ann, 1. vol. 91. — A tradition prevailed amongst the
Kaskaskia Indians of their having slain the first white men they had
ever seen — this might have been one of de Soto’s parties.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

did not enter. Pursuing this course, at the distance of fifteen
leagues he discovered another river and entered it on the first of
May, from which circumstance he gave it the name of la riviere
de Mai. Here he found a great number of savages, by whom,
from that conciliatory policy, which the French have so suc¬
cessfully pursued towards these people, he was. well received:
reciprocal presents, were made,, to t;he great, satisfaction of-
the Indians,. But having in view the river Joufdan, he has¬
tened his. departure from this place, but not without having
first erected a pillar on which were engraven the arms of
France, and taking possession of the country in the name of
the king and of the admiral ; a vain and idle ceremony. He after¬
wards gave to the rivers which he successively discovered for
sixty leagues, the names of French rivers, and at length cast an¬
chor in what he supposed the Jourdan, but which was Called af¬
terwards by the Spaniards, St. Cruz, and by the natives Shawa¬
no,* at present Savana. Ribaut at this place built a fort which he
called Fort Charles; the Indians manifested the greatest friend¬
ship. Leaving here the persons who had accompanied him
for the purpose of establishing a colony, he took his depar¬
ture. Unfortunately the direction and government of it, were re¬
signed to a person no Ways capable. He soon manifested great im¬
prudence, and the most ferocious severity. The colony in a
short time, suffered severely from famine, and a complication of
miseries : and wdre at length compelled to leave the country and
endeavor to regain their native land, in a vessel built by them
Under the most discouraging circumstances..

It is indeed strange, hpw men cap be induced voluntarily to
tear themselves from the bosom of a refined and civilized socie¬
ty, retire to a wilderness and become the neighbours of savages.
But the sweet and cheering hope of regaining their native soil, af¬
ter having acquired a competency, has been found never to aban¬
don the emigrants from France. Even the powerful incentive of
religious freedom, was not sufficient alone. The belief that eve-

* The Shawanese Indians were originally from Georgia; they exchang¬
ed their country with the Cherokees for that on the Cumberland river,
from whence they were afterwards driven by the same people across the

DISCOVERY & SETTLEMENT.— BOOK I.

Yf part of America was equally rich in mines of precious metals,
will account bot^for the readiness with which adventurers, em¬
barked in colonizing enterprises, and the ill success of the first
attempts ; for instead of cultivating the earth, the greater part
of their time was spent in running about in search of gold and
silver.

The admiral, not discouraged by the failure of this attempt,
soon succeeded in preparing another armament, consisting of
three vessels provided with every thing which might be requir¬
ed by a young colony, and gave the command to Rene de Lau-
dame re. Fifty thousand crowns were advanced to this expedi¬
tion by the king. Several gentlemen of fortune, and young per¬
sons of family were desirous of making this voyage at their own
expense ; and there were joined to it some detachments of sol¬
diers chosen from among the veteran corps. On the 26th of
June 1564, he entered the Dauphin river, but did not land, to
the great regret of the Indians who appeared disposed to receive
them in the most friendly manner. He continued his course to
the May river where he landed, ascended some distance, and,
being well received by the natives, commenced an establishment.
Notwithstanding all these advantages, and flattering auspices*
the same fate attended this colony as the first. The colonists
■tvere soon carried away by the delusion of searching after gold.
This became almost a mania, and was taken advantage of by a
neighbouring Paraoxjsti, who succeeded in drawing them into
a war with his enemies, a powerful tribe. This chief perceiving
the thirst after gold and silver which prevailed, exhibited some
pieces of silver, and informed that he had procured them from
Ills enemies, who had the same metal in abundance. The colony
now began to feel the usual calamities, from dissention, famine
from neglect of tillage, and at the same time an Indian war which
they had unjustly provoked. In this state they at length came
to the resolution of re-embarking, when of a sudden, to the gen¬
eral surprise, seven brigantines, appeared in the river. It prov¬
ed to be Ribaut who had brought succors to the colony.

About this time the attempt of France to colonize Florida, be¬
came known in Spain, who claimed the country in virtue of the
Pope’s bull, and the particular discoveries of Pontio de Leon and

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

the other adventurers. Pedro de Menendez, was immediately
despatched by that monarchy to establish a colony and to drive
away the French. The armament, might be considered for that
period, and for the occasion, a formidable one, consisting of ten
vessels and upwards of two thousand men. Before he could reach
the place of his destination, a storm arose, which dispersed and
scattered his ships, so that he only arrived with five. These were
attacked by some English vessels then at the mouth of the river,
and compelled to fall down to the Dauphin river, which they
entered, giving it the name of St. Augustin ; here they commen¬
ced an establishment. In the mean while Ribaut, contrary to the.
advice of his officers, embarked nearly all his force, in order to
attack and destroy the Spanish fleet, and left but sixty or seventy
men in his fort.* Ribaut could only come in sight of the Spa¬
niards when a dreadful tempest drove him off the coast. The
Spanish commander, rightly conjecturing that the greater part
of the garrison had been embarked on this occasion, resolved to
march over by land and storm the fort. This he did in five days
after his discovering the English squadron, and succeeded com¬
pletely, meetinp; in fact with but little or no resistance : Mons.
Laudamere and a few soldiers only escaped. This achievment
honorable in its commencement, was however wound up by one
of those acts of barbarity, which causes humanity to shudder even
when related of the most ferocious savages, and which stamps
infamy and shame on civilized men ; the prisoners who surren¬
dered, and the miserable fugitives, who were afterwards caught,
were hung upon a tree, on which was suspended this sentence,
worthy of that bigotry, “ whose forces are congregated from the
abysses of hell uot as frenchmen, but as heretics and

ENEMIES OF GOD.

JMenendez, giving the name of St. Matteo, to the fort he had
taken, left a garrison in it, and returned to St. Augustin. Ribaut at
the same time paid clearly for his imprudence, being ship-wreck¬
ed on the Bahama banks, he attempted with the remainder of his
forces to regain the fort by land. Having approached it after in¬
credible hardships, he learned that it was in the possession of
the Spaniards. One of his officers was sent with proposals, and

* It 4ad been called Fort Charles,

DISCOVERY 8c SETTLEMENTS BOOK I.

it was solemnly agreed on both sides, that the commander of the
fort, should supply them with a vessel to return to France ; but
he no sooner got these unfortunate people in his power, than re¬
gardless of humanity and justice, he caused them to be barba¬
rously butchered.

Such is the tragic fate of these early colonies ; the story is
related by Charlevoix, with minute detail, in his loose and ram*
bling way. This writer expresses the strongest indignation at
the abominable and atrocious conduct of the Spaniards, and de°
nies in the strongest terms that Spain ever had any just
right to this country.

France and Spain were at this moment in profound peace,
nor does this outrage, seem in the least to have excited the in¬
dignation of the former, owing to the circumstance of the unfor*
tunate victims having been protestants and heretics. But it was
left to a private gentleman, to avenge the indignity offered to his
country, and to chastise the barbarous usurpers of Florida. This
was the Chevalier de Gourgues a map who in those times had
distinguished himself in various countries for that romantic va*
lour, which was then so highly esteemed; the indignation which
he felt for the insult offered his country was heightened by a
sense of personal wrongs, having been for many years confined
in Spanish prisons. Under pretence of forming an expedition to
Africa, he raised at his own expense and with the assistance of
his friends, a considerable armament and steered for Florida. On
his arrival- he was joined by the Indians who had become greatly
dissatisfied with the Spaniards, stormed St. Matteo, and carri¬
ed it with little difficulty. The greater part of the garrison was
killed in the assault, the remainder were taken to the same tree
bn which the French had been hanged, and in the execution of
a severe but not unjust retaliation, served in the same manner,
the former inscription being replaced by one to this effect — not

AS SPANIARDS, BUT AS MURDERERS AND CUT-THROATS'. Having

destroyed the fort, and completed the object of his expedition,
he soon after embarked ; St. Augustin was considered as too
formidable for his party.

The attention of France seems to have been altogether with¬
drawn from this quarter of the continent, during an interval of

VIEWS OP LOUISIANA.

many years : being at this time chiefly occupied with her settle -
ments in Canada, which had begun to flourish. St. Augustin
and all Florida were about the same time abandoned by the Spa¬
niards.

About the year 1671, it was known in Canada, from the in¬
formation of Indians, that there was a great river to the west of
New France, which neither flowed to the east nor to the north.*
It was thought, it must either discharge itself into the gulph of
Mexico or into the south sea ; and it therefore became a matter
of importance that this should be ascertained.

Frontenac the governor of Canada, accordingly sent the
priest Marquette, with a trader named Joliet, accompanied by
three or four men to explore this river. These persons ascend-
ed the river of the Foxes, crossed to the Ouisconsing, which
they descended to the Mississippi. They sailed down this river
discovering some considerable tributary streams, the chief of
which, the celebrated Missouri, was named by the Indians Pe -
kitanoni. A few leagues below it, they found three large Indian
villages of Illinois.!

Little was done towards the further discovery of this region,
until it was undertaken by the enterprising La Salle. This gen¬
tleman having descended the Mississippi in company with the
Chevalier Tonti, discovered the mouth of the river, returned
with a fixed resolution of attempting further discoveries, and of
establishing a colony. He succeeded in obtaining a considerable
force from the king of France and about the year 1684, set sail
from la Rochelle. Rut according to Charlevoix, from an unfortu¬
nate severity of temper which often produced acts very ill-timed*
and from an over-weening confidence in his own abilities and
.resources, which led him to treat the opinions of others witl*

* Charlevoix.

f The decrease of these people is astonishingly great. The Illinois in
the recollection of the whites could bring eight or ten thousand warriors
into the field. Shortly after the discovery of the Mississippi, a missiona¬
ry who went to establish himself amongst the Miamies, found three
thousand warriors preparing for a war party. The Onlogamies were
reckoned at a thousand families*

DISCOVERY & SETTLEMENT. — BOOK t 17

contempt, he soon became the object of dislike to all. This was
the cause of his ultimate failure. He passed by the mouth of the
river which he sought, though it was seen by every person on
board the ships ; and persisted with such obstinacy that he would
not even listen to proposals, of going with a boat to examine. It
seems that from theoretic notions he had placed it further south.
He arrived at the bay of St. Bernard, and now discovered his er¬
ror, but too late, for the naval commander, became as obstinate
as himself, positively refused to return, and set him on shore
with all his men and equipments. La Salle, built a fort at this
place, and in a short time afterwards set out for the Mississippi,
but was assassinated by his own people, before he could reach it.
His whole company, with the exception of three or four persons
who reached Canada, finally perished, being either destroyed by
the Indians or taken prisoners by the Spaniards and condemned
to the mines.

The colonization of the Mississippi was not abandoned. In
the year 1698, Mons. D’Iberville, a gentleman of considerable
note in his day, as a naval commander and intrepid adventurer,
was sent with two ships in company with M. Chateaumorand to
explore and settle the mouth of that mighty river. In 1699, he
arrived at the bay of Pensacola, where three hundred Spaniards
had lately landed, having been sent from Vera Cruz, for the -pur*
pose of forming a colony. D’Iberville sent to them to request
permission to water, but was refused.

Continuing his route, he entered the Mobile, which at that
time afforded a fine harbor, but which was afterwards choked
Up by sand during a tempest. The first place at which he land¬
ed was an island, L’isle ds Massacre (so named from the mangled
bodies of Indians which first struck his sight, apparently butch*
ered in a wanton manner,) but which was afterwards called tho
Isle of Dauphin. D’Iberville from this island proceeded to the
main land, and afterwards, accompanied by a number of his men,
to the Mississippi; which being discovered, he returned to his
vessels, entered and ascended the river a considerable distance,
and erected a fort. He afterwards ascended as far as the Nat¬
chez, with which place he was so much pleased, that he conceiv¬
ed the idea of building a city there, to he named Bosali.

VIEWfe OF LOUISIANA.

The Mississippi was at this time called St. Louis, the naifcfc'
given to it by La Salle, but the country on both sides of it was
still known by the name of Florida ; D’Iberville was the first to
change it, to that of Louisiana.

About this period two English vessels arrived in search of
the Mississippi, induced by the glowing descriptions of Father
Hennepin, who had ascended, or pretended to have ascended,
this river to its source. One of these vessels entered the river
but did not attempt to land, or form any settlement. It appeared
that this country was also claimed by Britain, from the discove¬
ries of Sebastian Cabot, who sailed along the coast, without land¬
ing any where, and also by another title even more absurd than
die Pope’s bull, to wit, in -virtue of her own Charters .* Thus had
our infant French colony to contend with two great powers, one
jealous of supposed encroachments, and the other envious of any
new scheme of colonization on this continent.

M. DTberville left Louisiana in 1700; the colony was very
inconsiderable and far from advancing rapidly. The principal
settlement was at the Isle of Dauphin* noway suited to the pur¬
pose. It, however, still continued to live until the year 1712,
receiving occasional supplies from France and maintaining a
good understanding with the Spanish colony of Pensacola; they
seem to hpre forgotten former animosities and frequently
rendered each other mutual assistance. The Indians were also
conciliated and lived in friendship with the colonists. In this
year the commerce and government of Louisiana, was granted
to Crosat who had two objects in. view, the discovery of mines
in the Illinois, and the trade with Mexico. In both these he
completely failed. About this time the Natchez first began
to. display that enmity to the French, (occasioned perhaps by the
injudicious conduct of the officers who commanded the different
posts within the country) which afterwards proved so fatal to
themselves. The gold and silver mines of the Illinois could not
be discovered; and St. Denys, an active and enterprising indivT

*. See Marshall’s Life of Washington and Bosnian’s History of Ma¬
ryland;

DISCOVERY k SETTLEMENT.—- BOOK t

iual who had been sent by land to obtain permission of trading
from the viceroy, returned without success. St. Denys was af¬
terwards despatched to build a fort at the Natchitoches, in order
to prevent the Spaniards from encroaching in that quarter.
About the same time they made a settlement at the Assinais.*
Crosat not obtaining those profits, from his grant of the ex¬
clusive trade of Louisiana which were expected, gave up his pri¬
vilege to the king in IT 17, before the term of its duration had
expired. The famous company of Law, had been formed, which
by degrees engrossed the whole commerce within and without
the kingdom of France; this company under the name of “ the
Company of the Indies,” took possession of Louisiana, and ap¬
pointed Mons. Bienville governor of the colony. This gentle¬
man was welcomed at the Isle of Dauphin by the deputies of
twenty-five Indian nations; he commenced an establishment but
jhad been here butashort time when a hurricane completely clos¬
ed up the port. M. Bienville, then chose the position, where the
city of New Orleans now stands, and nearly all the settlers of
the Isle of Dauphin removed to Beloxi.f

In 1719, war broke out between France and Spain; and put
an end to the friendly intercourse which had existed between
the two colonies. Pensacola was taken ; the company having-
seized the opportunity of the breach between the two nations, of
making itself master of the only port, on all the northern coast
of Florida, from the Bahama banks to the Mississippi. The Spa¬
niards, after this event, mortified and chagrined at the loss, made
great preparations for retaking the place, and for the total des¬
truction of the French colony. They succeeded in retaking Pen¬
sacola but in their attack on the Isle of Dauphin were repulsed;
shortly after which, a squadron under the command of M.
Champlain, made its appearance, and the siege of Pensacola was
once more undertaken. Bienville was ordered to come in a sloop,
with the soldiers and volunteers of the Company, to the river
Perdido, in order to meet and unite with their Indian allies, who

* According to La Ilarpe even this settlement was made by St. Denys,
who brought the Spaniards from the interior for the purpose.

t Charlevoix— Du Prat z— Postlethway te.

VIEWS. OF LOUISIANA.

were there ready to. join them. The fort was invested by sea and
land, and in a short time compelled to surrender at discretion.

In the year 1721, peace was concluded between the two pow«*
ers ; one of the articles of the treaty was the restoration of Pen-
sacola; about the same time the council, general ordered the es¬
tablishments of the Beloxi to be removed to New Orleans. At
this period violent dissentions prevailed in the colony ; a great
proportion of the colonists were persons of the most worthless
and despicable class ; these dissentions were in some measure
fomented by the English of Carolina, who, were at the same time
In the habit of exciting the Indian nations. Fortunately for the
Trench the Choctaws then the most powerful nation were gene¬
rally faithful to them ; these people more than once saved the in¬
fant colony of Louisiana from total destruction. This was parti¬
cularly shewn in the wars with the Natchez. In the year 172$
in consequence of a plot formed with great art and finesse, for
the general massacre of the whites, the colony narrowly escaped
destruction ; the settlements at Natchez and at the Yazoo, were
entirely destroyed.515 The discovery was made by the mother of
the principal Sun, or chief, who delayed; and in a great measure
frustrated its execution. Tho mode agreed on by the nations in
the plot, and who were at a distance from each other, in different
parts of the colony, in order to, secure concert in striking the blow
on the same day, was a bundle of rods of the same number, de¬
posited with each. A rod was to be taken from the bundle each
day, and when there should remain but one, on that day the mas¬
sacre was to take place. The woman just mentioned, drew out
Several rods, and in this manner hastened the attack by the
Natchez ; a few who escaped gave the intelligence and saved the
rest of the colony. The Indians rose, but it was too late, the co¬
lonists were on their guard, and the Choctaws, came forward with
alacrity in their defence. The settlements on the Mobile owed
their preservation entirely to these people.

M. Perier, who succeeded Bienville as governor, prepared
to take vengeance; he marched to the Natchez, with seven hun¬
dred Choctaws, joined to his own forces,. He defeated one of their

* See a minute account of this affair in Bu Pratz.

DISCOVERY. & SETTLEMENT.—BOOK I.

parties before his arrival at their town. The Natchez were shut
up in two forts, constructed after their own manner, and defend¬
ed themselves with great obstinacy, holding out for upwards of a
month, notwithstanding that seven pieces of cannon were brought
against them. The principal cause of this delay, however, was
the number of prisoners in the possession of the besieged ; it was
justly feared that should they be driven to extremity, these might
be butchered. The forts at length surrendered, but on favor¬
able terms ; delivering up their prisoners and giving hostages
for their future good conduct.

Several writers have taken it for granted that the Indians
were never in the habit of fortifying ; but the detail of the fore¬
going siege, minutely given by Charlevoix and others, suffici¬
ently refute the idea. The approaches were made in the usual
forms, and in the course of the siege there were frequent sor¬
ties. The remains of Indian fortifications seen throughout the
western country, have given rise to strange conjectures, and
have been supposed to appertain to a period extremely remote;
but it is a fact well known, that in some of them the remains of
palisadoes were found by the first settlers.

The Natchez were neither reconciled nor induced to relin¬
quish their hostile designs. In 1 73 1 , it was found necessary to
raise another army of whites and Indian auxiliaries, with the in¬
tention of putting an end for the future to all apprehensions from
this troublesome nation. Under the command of M. Perier, this
army ascended Red river, and afterwards Black river its tributary
stream, to the place where the Natchez had fortified themselves
in the greatest force. The siege was commenced on the 30th
of January ; the trench was opened and all the different works of
the besiegers begun, and advanced apace during the rest of the
day, and the whole of the night. The day following, the mortars
and all things necessary for the attack, were brought on shore.
Some bombs were thrown, which fell in the fort. The besieged
made a sortie, killed a Frenchman and a negro but were repul¬
sed. On the 22d, bombs were thrown during the whole day but
produced no great effect, and the besieged wourided two sol¬
diers. On the 24th, they hoisted a white flag; M. Perier at the
Same time caused one to be hoisted at the head of a mast ; a short

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

time after, an Indian was seen advancing with a calumet In each
hand. He brought proposals of peace, and offered on the part of
his chief to return the prisoners and negroes in their possession.
Terms of any kind would not he attended to unless the chief
came in person ; this the Indian declared could not take place, but
observed to M. Perier, if he would advance to the corner of his
entrenchment, the great chief would come to the end of his Fort.
The Indian was dismissed with the message to his chief, that if
the prisoners and negroes were delivered up, the general would
then declare his further determination. These being brought
and delivered to M. Perier, he declared that unless the great
chief came to him in person he would continue the siege, and
deny all quarter. The chiefs finally agreed to surrender, and
with them the greater part of the people ; the remainder who re¬
fused to give themselves up found means during some very hea¬
vy rains to escape and join the rest of the nation. About two
hundred were fortified some distance up the Red river, but were
attacked and destroyed by St. Denys. Those that fell into the
Viands of the French were disposed of as slaves ; a thing very
unusual in their conduct towards the Indians, which has been
marked #th a greater degree of kindness than perhaps that of
p.ny of the European nations, but which on this occasion, may be
ascribed to the known treachery and unconquerable enmity of
these people. From that day the Natchez no longer existed as a
nation.

I have been more minute in detailing the circumstances of
this affair, than perhaps might be deemed necessary ; but it has
excited much interest, and is generally viewed by writers as of
importance in history.

In the same year Louisiana was retroceded to the king of
France, and Monsieur Perier appointed governor. I have taken
a rapid view of the first settlement of Louisiana ; it is not my in¬
tention to enter upon a history of the province, this would not
accord with the plan of these cursory Views. I shall only ob¬
serve that even as late as the year 1736, the colony was incon¬
siderable, confined to some trifling settlements at the Beloxi, on
the Mobile, and on the Mississippi, at New Orleans and Natchez,
The greatest draw back on the prosperity of the colony was tl?e

BOTTNDARIES. — BOOK L

injudicious practice pf monopolies. The inhabitants could only
dispose of their produce to the Company, and at such prices as
it chose to establish.

Charlevoix complains that although the Spaniards did not ac t
as openly as* the English, against a colony at which they had taken
great umbrage : yet that they had taken their measures more ef¬
fectually to arrest its progress, and to prevent the formation of
any new establishment. He says, “ They have in fact succeeded
even till now,* in retaining us by the pursuit of a contemptible
trade, between the stream which was neglected to be settled,!
and Pensacola, on a sandy coast,! on an island!] not better, and
upon a river, § which, although well enough to occupy, is ye£
not fitted for any great plan of colonization. It must be confess¬
ed, that on this occasion M. DTberville was not judicious, pF
that he had no time to carry his designs into execution.”

CHAPTER II.

BOUNDARIES OF LOUISIANA.

HAVING taken a cursory view of the discovery and frrSI
settlement of Louisiana, I now enter upon a subject of no small
difficulty and perplexity ; the discussion of the boundaries of this
province. Difficulties have already occurred, and it is feared
that others will yet arise, before the matter be finally adjusted.

From the foregoing chapter, it will appear to the reader, that
although in point of settlement and first discovery, the French
might fairly be considered as having the best claim to Florida,
yet the subsequent dereliction, for so great a number of years,
gave the Spaniards a just right to occupy it, as a country own¬
ed only by the natives. We have seen, that Pensacola, during the
war which preceded the treaty of 1721, was taken by the French ,
but afterwards surrendered in consequence of that treaty.^

* 1736, f Mississippi. ± Beloxi, Ij Isle Dauphin. § Mobile-

24 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA.

France, was therefore confined to the limits tacitly stipulated of
agreed on, before the war, or at least to the part, of which she
actually enjoyed possession : it does not appear that this was
ever altered until the country was transf erred by France to Spain.
What those limits were, between what retained the name of Flo¬
rida, and the French possessions to the east of the Mississippi,
is tolerably well defined by several writers ; the French were un¬
doubtedly in possession on the Mobile, and La Harpe expressly
declares the Rio Perdido to be the boundary.

But the boundaries of this province like those of many other
of the American colonies, were very vague, and given by writers
who were influenced by national vanity, or guided by the politi¬
cal views of government. It is certain that Louisiana in the hands
of France, did extend a very considerable distance east of the
Mississippi ; this is acknowledged by early writers most dispos¬
ed to dispute her title. Dr. Postlethwayte in his Dictionary of
Commerce, after speaking of the difficulties of ascertaining the
boundaries of Louisiana, observes, “ that certain it is, that Lou¬
isiana contains the greater part of those new discovered lands
east and west of the Mississippi, which at first had the name of
Florida/*

I. A question has arisen whether Louisiana by virtue of the
cession to us, is held in the same extent as it was holden by
France previous to the Sd of November 1762 ; that is, to the
Perdido on the east side of the Mississippi; for it can scarcely
be doubted that previous to the period just mentioned, it did ex¬
tend to that river. To render the subject more clear it will be
necessary to ascend to first causes, and to take a view of those
which induced the different transfers. As soon as the settle¬
ments on the Mississippi and in the Illinois, had taken a firm foot¬
ing, the design was formed of uniting them with Canada, under
the name of New France ; a young scion that in time would have
rivalled and perhaps surpassed New-England. M. D’Anville
under the patronage of the Duke of Orleans, executed a map of
New France which included the whole extent of country west
ef the Allegany mountains. To the whole of the Valley of the
Mississippi, France had probably the most just claim, as the dis¬
coverer of the American Nile, and as the first to form establish-

BOUNDARIES.—BQOK l.

niehts on all its great rivers.. But this, interfered with the Bri¬
tish charters which extended indefinitely to the west ; another
map was published (probably under the direction of the minis¬
try) restricting France to much narrower limits. The dispute
was settled by a -war in which France lost all her possessions
in this quarter of the world. Canada Falling into the hands of
Britain, and France fearing that the like fate might attend Lou¬
isiana, by a secret treaty of the 3d Nov. 1 7 62, ceded to Spain c®
much of this province as lies beyond the Mississippi, together
with the isle of Orleans 5 and by the treaty of peace Which follow¬
ed in 1763, the whole territory of France and Spain, eastward
of the river Mississippi to the river Iberville, thence through
the middle of that river and the lakes Pontchartraiti to the sea*
Was ceded to Great Britain.

It will be recollected that during the American revolution,
Spain taking part with the United States, conquered the Floridas
from Great Britain, and they Were confirmed to her by the trea¬
ty of 1783; she thus re-attached to Louisiana, the part, which, by
her joint act With France , had been separated from it, at the same
period that Florida was ceded by Spain to Britain. That part of
Louisiana once more Came under the government of the pro¬
vince. A separate one was formed of Florida of which Pensa¬
cola became the Capital.,

By the treaty of St. Ildefonso, Spain ceded back to the French
republic, “ the colony or province of Louisiana, with the same
extent that it actually had in the hands of Spain, and that it had
when France possessed it, and such as it ought to be after the
treaties subsequently entered into between Spain and other
States.” This treaty was confirmed by that of Madrid 1801. T 6
the United States, it was ceded by France on the 30th April
1803, with a reference to the foregoing clause as descriptive of
its limits.

This brief exposition might be deemed sufficient, and the
able view of the subject by Mr. Gallatin places it beyond doubt.
It is a fact well known in this country, that the commandants
at Baton Rouge and at Mobile had prepared to deliver up their
posts to the United States, and that it was owing to some over¬
sight in the commissioners that possession was not actually taken,,

2$ VIEWS OF ' LOUISIANA, ;

It is not a new claim set up on the spur of the occasion ; the first
acts of congress relative to Louisiana, expressly provided for the
government of this, as well as of other parts of the province. A
recapitulation of the facts will place the subject in a clearer light.
1. France, previous to the year 1762, possessed as far as the Per¬
dido. 2. By the treaty of that date, she ceded to Spain not the
whole of Louisiana, but only so much of it, as lay west of the Mis®
sissippi, Sec. 3. France jointly with Spain, ceded to Britain east
of the same river, See. 4. Spain re-attached to Louisiana, that part
which she had jointly with France ceded in the manner before
mentioned. Spain ceded the province to France in the same ex¬
tent as was then held by her, and as it had been held by France
when she possessed it, and was again ceded by the latter to the
United States in the same extent. Some have been deceived by
the term West Florida , and have supposed a separate govern¬
ment to have existed under this name, but the fact is that it was
first distinguished in this manner after it fell into the hands of
Britain.

II. The boundaries of Louisiana to the S. W. and the N. E.
still remain in doubt and obscurity In fact, from the variety of
claimants, and the ignorance of the geography of the country in
the first instance, it was scarcely to be expected that the limits
could be clearly and satisfactorily defined. Father Hennepin and
Mons. La Salle, bounded Louisiana on the east by the Alleghe¬
ny mountains, on the south by the gulph of Mexico, and on the
S. W- by the Spanish settlements ; on the N. and W. they deny
any boundary. De Lisle and Mons. D’Anville assign as the
boundary in the quarter of Mexico, the Rio Bravo. Others
contend that it was contained within the 25° and 40 of N. lati¬
tude. France certainly claimed to the Rio Bravo ; and this has
been expressed in an official act, the Grant to Crosat. It is not
clear that our executive is not bound to maintain this claim un¬
til expressly waved by the competent authority ; the sovereign
which our government suceeds, had declared the right, and actu¬
ally exercised jurisdiction. These are political acts, and it is dif¬
ficult to say how just or reasonable the causes which induced
them. There is no question but that France had undisturbed
possession as far as the Rio Hondo, (west of Natchitoches J and

FACE OF COUNTRY, See. — BOOK I. $7

that a fort was built by La Salle, on the bay of St. Bernard ; it
is said that its remains are still visible. The United States have
declared the Sabine to be the boundary of the State of Louisiana,
but there is no declaration how much further our claim may be
considered as extending. Should Mexico achieve her indepen¬
dence, the amicable disposition which will probably be felt will
render this more easy of arrangement. It would not 'be difficult
to fix this boundary by taking either the Trinity, Brasses de Dios,
or Guadaiotipe, of the bay of St. Bernard, following the course
of one of these rivers to its source, from thence pursuing a N.
W. direction to the Cordilleras, and following these so as to in¬
clude all the waters of the Mississippi and of the Missouri. Na¬
cogdoches, St. Antonio, Labourdi, and a few other inconsider¬
able settlements, would be the only ones included. Other ar¬
rangements might perhaps be made still more to the satisfaction
of the parties.

It is not more easy to assign the boundary to the N. W. and
N. Perhaps the 50° of N. latitude would be the most certain an$
just.

CHAPTER III.

FACE OF THE COUNTRY - CHANGE WHICH A PART HAS PRGBA"

ELY UNDERGONE - CLIMATE - EXTENT AND IMPORTANCE.

This extensive portion of North America, has usually been
described from a small part which is occupied by the ^settle¬
ments ; as though it were limited to the borders of the Mississip¬
pi, as Egypt is confined to the vicinity of the Nile. Some repre¬
sent it, in general description, as a low flat country, abounding
in swamps and subject to inundation. Others speak of it as one
vast wilderness ;

“Missouri marches through his world of woods.*9

But if Louisiana were to be described like other countries not
from a particular spot, but from its general appearance, we
should say that it is an extensive region of open plains and mea¬
dows, interspersed with bare untillable hills?and having some

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

resemblance to the Stepps of Tartary, or the Saara’s of Africa*
but without the morasses and dull uniformity of the one, or the
dreary sterility of the other. The tracts lying on the great rivers
constitute the most important parts of Louisiana, but are very in-*
considerable in geographical extent, when compared with the
Remainder. These tracts are principally on the Mississippi*
Missouri, Arkansas and Red river. They are vaflies, seldom ex-,
ceeding ten or twelve miles in width, of a soil exceedingly rich
and productive, but much interspersed with lakes and refluent
currents or bayous. To give a more perfect and satisfactory view
of this extensive country, it will be found convenient to divide
it into three parts.

1. The regions beyond the settlements,

2. The territory of the Missouri.

3. The state of Louisiana.

Volney has properly called the country drained by the Mis¬
sissippi and its waters, a valley ; but it is to be observed that the
western side is nearly three times as large as the other, and tra¬
versed by much more considerable rivers. The mountains which
bound it on the west and §. W- are of a much greater magnitude
‘ than the Alleganies.

To pursue some plan in these Views, I propose to take up
the first book, with some general description of Louisiana, its
rivers, soil and productions, and to give in the next book, a more
detailed account of the territory of the Missouri, and of the
-%tate of Louisiana-*-.

The Rocky Mountains are without doubt a continuation of the
Andes* Their course is nearly north and squth ; in extent and.
magnitude they fall little short of the mountains of South Ame¬
rica. There are in some places peaks of an immense height,
and covered with perennial snows. The highest point is in lat.
41°, and may be considered the table land of North America.
It is from this place that many of the greatest rivers take their
rise, and flow in opposite directions;* the Colorado of Califor¬
nia, Rio del Norte, the Arkansas, the Platte, and the Roche Jaune
(yellow stone.) It will be to the geologist an interesting work,

* See Pike’s Journal*

FACE OF COUNTRY, &C.—BOOK I.

to trace the various ridge$, connections, spurs and dependencies
of these mountains. There is a long chain of hills which gene¬
rally separate the waters of the Missouri from those of the Ar¬
kansas and Mississippi, these are commonly called the Black
mountains. The. hills in the White river country, and those
west of the Mississippi* towards the head of the St Francis and
the Maramelc, so abundant in minerals, may be dependencies
of the Black mountains* There are high rugged hills, approach¬
ing to mountains:, 'between the upper part of the Washita river
and the Arkansas, of which some account may be found in Hun¬
ter and Dunbar’s voyage up the Washita.

Taking the distance from the Mississippi to the mountains, to
be about nine hundred miles, of the first two hundred miles, the
larger proportion is fit for settlements, There is a great deal of
well timbered land and the soil is generally good; this quality,
however, diminishes as we ascend north, where the soil becomes
unproductive and almost barren, and as we advance westward
the land becomes more bare of woods. For the next three hun¬
dred miles the country can scarcely be said to admit of settle-
ments ; the wooded parts form but trifling exceptions to its ge¬
neral appearance, and are seldom found except in the neigh¬
bourhood of streams ; we may safely lay it down as a general
remark, that after the first hundred miles, no timber is found
on the upland except it be pine or cedar. The rest of the coun¬
try is made up of open plains of immense extent, chequered
with waving ridges which enable the traveller to see his jour¬
ney of several days before him. Yet a great proportion of the
soil would bear cultivation, the river bottoms, being generally
fine, and many spots truly beautiful ; there are other places, how¬
ever, barren in the extreme, producing nothing but hyssop and
prickly pears. The same description will suit the rest of the
country to the Rocky mountains; except that it is more moun¬
tainous, badly watered, and a greater proportion entirely barren.*
In the two last divisions the bodies of land fit for settlements,

* There are extensive tracts of moving sands similar to those of the
African deserts. Mr. Makey informed me that he was several days in
passing over one of these between the Platte and the Missouri, and near
.the mountains ; there was no sign of vegetation.

, fiir VIEWS OP LOUISIANA.

are so distant from each other, that there is scarcely any probav
bility of any being formed for centuries, if ever.

A great proportion of the country watered by the Missouri
and its tributary streams, appears to have undergone some won¬
derful change, from causes not easy to ascertain ; the influence
of fire, is however evident. I have seen in many places banks of
clay burnt almost to the consistence of brick ; of this kind, there
is above the Poncas village, what is called the tower, a steep
hill one hundred and fifty feet in height, and four or five hun¬
dred in circumference : it is so hard, as not to be affected by the
washing of the rains. Large masses of pumice are seen near
these places, and frequently in the high bluffs of the river banks.
These appearances were formerly attributed to the existence
of volcanoes on the Missouri, but they are now generally sup¬
posed to be the effects of coal-banks continuing a long time on
fire. I am well satisfied that this fossil abounds in every part of
the great valley of the Mississippi. Many of the river hills pre-,
sent the appearance of heaps of clay, great quantities of which,
on the melting of the snows, and in heavy rains, are precipitated
and carried to the principal river. This clay, is of a grey color
extremely tenacious, being mixed with a large proportion of cal-
earious earth : the incumbent soil havingbeen first carried away;
the rock on which it reposed being laid bare to the frost and
sun, and perhaps affected by the burning of coal-banks near it,
gradually crumbled and united with the clay. In taking up a
handful, one may pick out pieces of gypsum, (sulphat of lime)
some of half an ounce weight. Near these spots are usually
found glaubers salt, (sulphat of soda) and common salt, oozing
with water out of the ground, and crystallized on the surface.
The most remarkable fact, is the appearance on these heaps of
clay, of the remains of trees, in a state of petrifaction and some
of enormous size. Fragments may be every where picked up,
but stumps of four or five feet in height, perfectly turned to
stone, and the trunks of tall trees, may be seen and traced. This
is extraordinary in a country, where even in the richest alluvions,
the timber attars but a stinted growth.

From these facts an ingenious theorist might conjecture, that
the Missouri has not always brought down in its channel, tliat

FACE OF COUNTRY, Sec. — BOOK I.

astonishing quantity of earth which it does at the present day.—
It is probable, that other causes, as in Tartary, might have ope¬
rated in preventing the growth of woods, in a great proportion
of this western region ; but something of a different kind, must
have effected a change in this country, which apparently was
once covered with trees. What immense quantities of the earth
must have been carried off to form the great alluvions of the
Mississippi, by means of the Arkansas, Red river, and chiefly*
from the Missouri! not to mention the vast quantities lost in
the gulph of Mexico. The result of a calculation would be cu¬
rious. The marks of this loss, are very evident in the neigh¬
bourhood of nearly all the rivers which discharge themselves in¬
to the Missouri above the Platte. Some of the appearances*
may rank amongst the greatest natural curiosities in the world;
The traveller on entering a plain, is deceived at the first glance
by what appears to be the ruins of some great city ; rows of
houses for several miles, in length, and regular streets. At the
first view, there appears to be all the precision of design, with
the usual deviations in single buildings, representing palaces,
temples, &c. ; which appearances, are caused by the washing
away of the hills as before described. These remains, being com¬
posed of more durable substance continue undecayed while the
rest is carried off. The strata, have the appearance of different
stories: the isolated, and detached hills, constitute the remain¬
der. I had this description from hunters, and from persons of
intelligence who have met with them, and I have myself, seen
places near the Missouri, very similar.

There is but a small portion of this extensive region, which
is not calcarious; in this respect, resembling the section of the
valley which lies east of the Mississippi. A fact which is singu¬
lar enough, on the summits of many of the river hills, about one
thousand miles up, large blocks of granite are found, of several
tons weight ; these continue to be seen until we reach the first
range of primitive mountains. It is possible, there may have
been a lower range, which from the change produced by the
wearing away of the earth has gradually disappeared.

Some of the peculiarities of climate may be noted in this
place. The height o.f this western region, and the open plain's

32 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

which compose it, cause it to possess a pure elastic air. The
sky has a more delightful blue, than I ever saw any where else ;
the atmosphere in a serene, calm evening is so clear, that a slight
smoke can be discerned at a distance of many miles ; and is
of great importance to the Indians in detecting their enemies.,
and in giving warning ; but it also exercises their caution in the
highest degree. In point of health, it is unnecessary to say any
thing; such a country must necessarily be salubrious. The heat
of .the sun is greatest in the month of July, and at that time is not
less intense than in other parts of the continent, but it is render¬
ed more supportable by the breezes which continually fan the
air. Spring opens about the last of April, and vegetation is in
considerable forwardness by the middle of May. Such fruits as
the country affords, principally, berries, sand cherries, currants,
do not ripen until the latter end of July. I found strawberries
ripe about the fourth of that month, near the Mandan villages.
Plumbs ripen in the latter end of August. The winter sets in the
beginning of October, but there is frost very frequently in Au¬
gust and September. The cold is excessive during the winter
season ; there are frequent storms which continue for several
days, and render it dangerous for any but Indians to stir out,
without running the risk of being frozen. These observations,
apply to the greater portion of this region, but with respect to the
part which lies south of the Arkansas, must be taken with consi*
derable allowance.

To the north of the river just mentioned, rains are not fre*
*juent, but when they set in, pour down in torrents To the south,
there is seldom any rain, its place being supplied by heavy dews*
In the dry -season, at a distance from the gj;eat rivers, water is
every where exceedingly scarce. The Indians in their journeys,
usually pass by places where they know there are ponds, but
generally, they are under the necessity of carrying water in blad¬
ders. In this season, a person in traversing the country will be
frequently surprised at crossing the beds, or channels of large
rivers, without finding a drop of water. After rains, or the melt*
ing of snows, torrents roll down these channels. It is not sur¬
prising that a country so distant from the sea, drained by a river
w hich has a course of three thousand miles, before it reaches the

FACE OF COUNTRY* Ssc.—BOOK I.

great reservoir, should not be so well watered. This deficiency,
is another amongst the impediments to the settlement of that
vast waste.

According to the boundaries before laid down, Louisiana is
at least, one third larger than the rest of the United States, and
contains little short of one million and an half square miles. But
we should be greatly deceived if in estimating its importance
we take into view only its geographical extent. Constituting the
central or interior part of North America, the greater portion
of it, is at too remote a distance from the ocean to have an easy
and advantageous communication with the rest of the world.—*
When compared to other parts of America it may be consider¬
ed as badly watered, and devoid of that facility of intercourse
from navigable rivers which they possess. I am to be under¬
stood, as speaking of Louisiana generally ; there are exceptions
to these general observations: the territory of the Missouri, and
the state of Louisiana, are amply sufficient to make amends for
the unpromising character of the remainder, they may be justly
reckoned amongst the most interesting portions of the American
empire.

From what has been already said, it will be seen that the pre>»
vailing idea of those western regions, being like the rest of the
United. States, susceptible of cultivation, and affording endless
out-lets to settlements, is erroneous. These out-lets when com¬
pared to the extent of country are extremely limited ; they are
much less considerable than on the eastern side of the Missis^
sippi. The natives will probably remain in quiet and undisturb¬
ed possession, for at least a century, for until our country be¬
comes in some degree surcharged with population, there is
scarcely any probability of settlers venturing far into those re¬
gions. A different mode of life, habits altogether new and suit¬
ed to the situation, would have to be adopted. Settlements would
have to be strung along water courses at such distances from
each other, that they could not protect themselves from the wan¬
dering- tribes. The distance from, market, and the difficulties of
reaching it, would render the agricultural produce of little or n©
value. Yet, I am convinced, that did not the Indians possess it,
there would in a very short time, be many small groups of set-

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA

dements scattered through it. This country, it is certain, call?
never become agricultural, but it is in many respects highly fa¬
vourable to the multiplication of flocks and herds. Those de¬
lightful spots where the beauty and variety of landscape, might
challenge the fancy of the poet, invite to the pastoral life. How
admirably suited to that interesting animal, the sheep* are those
clean smooth meadows, of a surface infinitely varied by hill and
dale, covered with a short sweet grass intermixed with thou¬
sands of the most beautiful flowers, undeformed by a single
weed I

This contraction of the settlements will have its advantages.-
The territory we possessed before the acquisition of Louisiana,
would not have been filled up for a great length of time : it will
require ages, and even centuries before our lands can be culti¬
vated as in Europe, or before the population presses on the means
of subsistence. A thin and scattered population is a disadvantage
as it weakens a nation, and retards the progress of improvements.
There is also a consideration which will strike at the first view ;
the vast open plains which separate ms from the Mexican pro¬
vinces will for a long time prevent any serious difficulties as to
boundary where there exists so little data for determining it.

To dilate upon the political advantages of the acquisition ef
Louisiana would fill a volume. It may be regarded as one of the
most fortunate occurrenoes in our history. Had this country
continued in the hands of any other power, it is highly probable
that we should have been involved in expensive wars, or per¬
haps a separation of the western states might have taken place.
To these states the free navigation of the Mississippi is abso¬
lutely necessary, and while Louisiana remained in the posses¬
sion of any European nation it would always have been subject
to interruption. This consideration alone would have been worth
the price paid for the province. The connection between the ex¬
istence of a republic and the extent of its territory, is still a vex-
ata questio amongst politicians, and can only be decided by the
experiment of ours. I will only venture to suggest one idea. In
a small extent of country there is danger from the momentary
bias of popular opinion ; the fiermanent interests , may not be
sufficiently diversified, and should the confederacy divide on tins

FACE OF COUNTRY, &c.— BOOK I.

object, into two great parties, nothing can long retain them in
union. In an extensive region like ours, even with the aid of our
thousand newspapers , popular feeling cannot be suddenly arous¬
ed to such a pitch of passion and phrenzy, as to break down the
barriers of reason; and the northern and southern interests, (of
which we hear) are neutralized by the weight of several impor¬
tant states whose interests are connected with that of both The
western states, like the southern, are devoted to agriculture, but
at the same time, dependent on the commerce of the northern
for the conveniences and luxuries of life.

The security our western settlements will derive against the
numerous tribes of savages, who would be at the disposal of any
power holding Louisiana, may be ranked amongst the most cer¬
tain advantages of the acquisition. Our vicinity to the Mexican
provinces will enable us to carry on a trade, which if permitted
to be free, must in a short time become of incalculable value. It
is ardently to be wished that these people during their present
struggles may be able to throw off the foreign government,
which ruled them as it were by the spells of Circe, by using eve¬
ry art to retain them in ignorance, and to render them debased.
Could these people become independent and be regenerated by
the ennobling spirit of freedom, the northern continent would be
exclusively possessed by two great nations, Americans and Mexi¬
cans, united in friendship by harmonizing interests and sympa¬
thy of governments.

The intrinsic value of Louisiana notwithstanding the vast ex¬
tent which may be considered almost barren, is beyond calcula¬
tion. The territory of the Missouri, and the state of Louisiana,
are equal in extent to any three of the largest states, containing
every variety of soil and climate, and capable of producing what¬
ever may administer to the convenience or luxury of man ; rich
in minerals, fertile in soil, and favorably situated for every com¬
merce and manufacture.

VIEWS OP LOUISIANA,

CHAPTER IV.

lakes and rivers.

In so great an extent of country, it is not surprising there
should be many navigable rivers. In Louisiana there are not
less than three hundred streams adapted to the purposes of na¬
vigation, and yet this section of the great valley of the Mississip¬
pi, is far from being as well watered as that on the eastern side.
Springs are less abundant, and the rivers depend chiefly for their
supply on rains, and on the melting of the snows. It is a remark
which applies to nearly all the larger rivers on the western side
of the Mississippi, which take their rise in the great mountains,
>vhere springs are numerous, and the streams clear and limpid,
that while they flow through the mountainous country, they pos¬
sess deep and clear channels, and are of easy navigation, but on
entering the lower country, spread out, become broad and shal¬
low, even ceasing to be navigable for a long distance. The Mis¬
souri and Mississippi, are perhaps the only exceptions. But
those which rise short of the primitive mountains are navigable
with scarcely any interruption to their sources, which are often
in lakes.

In upper Louisiana there are but few lakes except those near
the heads of the Mississippi. The lake of the Woods, the lesser
Winipec, Leech lake, Bed Cedar lake (supposed to be the source
of the Mississippi) lake De Sable, See. are the most considerable
of these. There are several lakes between the Missouri, and
the N. W* chain, but the country is yet but little known. It is
supposed that lake Winipec, perhaps the largest of all those in¬
land seas, comes within the territory of the United States. — .
Even if in our limits of Louisiana we should be bounded by a
line due west, from that one which terminates the line of the
United States, it is probable that the source of the Mississippi
is further north than the southern side of lake Winipec. This
lake receives a number of very considerable rivers, and is dis¬
charged into Hudson’s Bay by Nelson’s river ; it is connect¬
ed with other lakes to the north-west, and has from the rivers
emptying into it? an inconsiderable portage to the waters of lake
Superior.

LAKES & RIVERS. — BOOK I.

In lower Louisiana, there are a great number of lakes from
the refluent waters of the Mississippi, and from the upland
streams which lose themselves in the level. These will be enu¬
merated and more particularly described, in the account of the
state of Louisiana, as also the lakes Pontchartrain, and Maure-
pas, on the east side of the Mississippi ; which although usual¬
ly known under the name of lakes, might with more propriety
be considered as bays, as they are immediately connected with
the sea.

In this place I shall give some detailed account of the great
rivers ; reserving the less considerable for the place where I
shall speak of the sections of country which they traverse.

THE MISSISSIPPI.

To enter into all those particulars respecting this noble ri¬
ver, which writers have deemed worthy of notice, would far ex-
teed the bounds to which I am confined. Besides, it is so well
known from the writings of many intelligent persons, that by en¬
tering into such detail, my task would be little more than that of
compilation. The Mississippi (or Mitchasippi, the father of
streams) justly ranks amongst the most magnificent rivers in
the world ; whether We consider its extent, the astonishing num¬
ber and magnitude of its tributary rivers, or the amazing scope
of fertile lands which it traverses ; watering at least a fourth of
the habitable part of North America. The comparison to the
Nile not unfrequeiitly made, is far from giving just conceptions
of its riiagnitude and importance.* It is only with the equally
noble and vast rivers of the New World, it can be properly as*
feiinilated. It differs from these in one particular; instead of a
channel proportioned to its extent and magnitude, it gives its tri¬
bute to the ocean by innumerable out-lets and natural canals.
The Delta of this river is said to extend several degrees of lon¬
gitude, the whole formed with earth brought down by the stream.
Perhaps at one period of the world, this river gave its waters to

* A striking difference is, that the inundation of the one is regarded
as a blessing, and of the other as a misfortune; the thin sandy soil of
Egypt requires the fertilizing slime deposited by the Nile, while the
alluvions of. the Mississippi are of exhaustless fertility.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

the great reservoir with as much majesty as the Amazon, or the
La Piatte, but the Mississippi may challenge any of those rivers
for the extent of its navigation and the quality of habitable and
fertile soil on his border, and on the borders of his “ thousand
Sons.5’

The alluvions, or rather immense tracts of country formed
by this river, constitute its most remarkable feature ; proving
incontestably an antiquity equal at least to that of the old
world. These constitute a valley on an average thirty miles,
wiue from the mouth of the Ohio, to Red river, where 1 consi¬
der the Delta as commencing on the western side. This valley is
confined by what may be termed, as distinguished from the al¬
luvions, primitive ground. The river is thought to be approach¬
ing in its general course the upland or primitive ground, on the
eastern side ; it is certain that it washes the upland in ten or
twelve places, in the distance before mentioned, and seldom or
ever recedes from it more than ten miles : on the western side it
approaches the upland but in one place, a few miles below the
river St. Francis, and that within a quarter of a mile: it after¬
wards in no place comes nearer than twenty miles. The water
which issues from it, on this side, during the floods, returns into
it again by the St. Francis, Arkansas, and Red river, with more
ease than on the eastern side above Iberville and Manchac; but
immense quantities of water on both sides remain stagnant in
swamps and lakes. Belov/ this, the water is carried off to the
sea, by the numerous out-lets on both sides ; the primitive ground
diverging on either hand'and leaving a larger space, eighty or
ninety miles in width. There are the most evident proofs that
the Mississippi, has at different periods meandered in a thousand
channels, still visi ble, in the valley between the primitive ground
on either hand. There are lakes of considerable extent which
have much the appearance of the river, and the ridges of high
ground every where through this alluvion shew that they once
constituted its banks; these ridges, from the accumulation of ve¬
getable matter, have become even higher than the present banks,
and are very rarely inundated.* The banks of what are called

* It is a common idea that the Mississippi runs upon a ridge; but
this is easily explained when we recollect, that the alluvions even of the

RIVERS k LAKES.— BOOK I.

foayOUx, (out-lets frorn^ the river) are generally higher than
those of the river from the same reason ; they were undoubted¬
ly at one period the channels of the Mississippi.

It is exceedingly difficult to give an idea of the country bor*
dering on the Mississippi below the mouth of the Ohio. Some
have represented the river as running through a swamp, others,
that during the season of Hoods it may be considered as a river
thirty miles wide ; the whole country in this extent being under
water. It cannot properly be called a swamfi according to the
understanding of the word, that is, an almost irreclaimable mo¬
rass, or marsh ; there are certainly large tracts during the floods
completely inundated, particularly below Red river, but are again
dry when they subside. If the reader were to conceive an idea
that the valley or alluvion of the Mississippi, is at those times
covered by a continued sheet of water, he would be deceived:
but when the flood is at its height, the whole valley or alluvion
country, is replenished with water, every where in motion,
through the innumerable canals and lakes scattered through it,
making its way towards the sea, leaving, however, large tracts
perfectly dry. Above Red river the ground is rising every year
by the accumulation of vegetable substance, and by the deposi¬
tion of earthy matter where the ground overflows— -the period is
not distant when the greater part will be entirely above the
reach of inundation. Above this river several settlements had
been formed on the rivers and bayoux between the Mississippi
and upland, and for five or six years were not affected by the ris¬
ing of the waters ; it was not until the extraordinary flood of
1811, that most of them were abandoned, yet such a quantity of
sediment was deposited that year, that it will require a flood of
considerably greater height to affect them. It may be worthy of
remark, that the alluvial banks are generally highest on the
western side; there are many places where the river does not
break over them in the highest floods, by twelve or eighteen
inches, though the ground is overflowed in the rear, leaving on-

most trifling rivulet will be higher on the bank than at some distance
from it; the grosser and more weighty matter brought down by the
Stream being deposited first, and the lighter and filler at a greater dis¬
tance, and th£ last.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. •

Jy narrow strips fifty or an hundred yards wide. The settle-
merits from the mouth of the Ohio to Natchez are chiefly on this
side ; on the eastern, there are scarcely any improvements ex¬
cept on the upland.

Above the mouth of the Ohio to the Missouri, the valley is
not more than half the width it possesses below, and the high
land, or bluffs, generally on the western side, but of different
character; instead of high clay banks they are faced with lime-
stone, in places rising in precipices to two or three hundred
feet in height. This perhaps constitutes one half of the west*
ern bank. The proportion of land subject to inundation on
either side is inconsiderable, nor are there many out-lets, but
there are still large lakes scattered through the hottom, which
was formerly the bed of the river.

It lias been suggested by some, that there was formerly an
out-let from Lake Mitchigan, to the Mississippi by the Illinois.
This is supported by the well known facts, that the water of
nearly all the lakes drained by the St. Lawrence, has sunk seve*
ral feet, and the evident marks in the present channel of the IL
linois, of having once contained a stream of much greater mag¬
nitude. This opinion might be strengthened by another fact with*
in my own observation. The bluff which encloses the alluvion on
the eastern side, at present distant several miles from the river*
appears in places, in bare precipices of limestone rock, similar to
that immediately on the river, and what is singular, bears evi¬
dent marks of attrition by the waters, to the height of at least
ten feet above the highest floods. The same thing may be also
observed on the western side. Possibly the river may have been
once six or seven miles wide at this place, and included be*
tween the bluffs. Or there may have been a lake, which by
the operation of various causes may hav© been drained. This
idea suggested itself to me from the examination of a remark*
able place on the Mississippi, eight or ten miles above the vil¬
lage of Cape Girardeau, called the Grand Tower, which, though
scarcely known, may be justly considered one of the greatest cu*
riosities of the river. At this place the bluffs on the western side
are close to the river ; and on the eastern, a narrow bottom lies
between it and the bluffs ; the hills on both sides at this point, seem

illVERS Sc LAKES.— BOOK I.

to converge, and from the appearance of huge fragments of rock,
one is led to believe that here was formerly a cataract. The tow¬
er is one of these fragments, about sixty yards from the western
bank, (which is a steep rock) and is about fifty feet in height ; its
form nearly circular, some handsome cedars growing on the top :
on the opposite side of the river there is another huge detached
rock, but round which the water does not flow except nv extraor¬
dinary floods ;* between this and the bluffs there are several
other fragments of rock, possessing every appearance of once
having formed a regular chain, through which the Mississippi,
by the aid of time, or some convulsion of nature has made itself
a channel. It is a dangerous place and difficult to ascend, as well
as to descend in safety. Between this, and the mouth of the Ohio,
there are to be seen in various places, detached rocks on the
shore, and on the heads of islands, evidently rolled down by some
mighty and unusual current.

It is the opinion of many persons, that the Mississippi is a
continuance of the Missouri; of this there can be little doubt.
The Mississippi after its junction with that river assumes its ap¬
pearance and character in every particular except the general
course ; the colour of their waters can be distinguished for six¬
ty miles ; but in the alluvia, sand bar's, islands, rafts, current,
and the timber on its borders, the Missouri is preserved. Per-
haps it might have been more proper to have given a new name
to the river which has been the result of this junction.

Above the Missouri, the Mississippi is clear and limpid, like
the Ohio, and bordered by a country extremely beautiful, with
many fertile spots, but is not to be compared to that on the
Ohio for settlements. The greater part consists of naked plains,
which promise little to the husbandman. Excepting the cata¬
racts of St. Anthony ; this river has but one or two serious in¬
terruptions in the navigation for at least sixteen hundred miles
above St. Louis : but its channel generally abounds with shoals,
and sand bars, the current, however, gentle. It is not an easy
matter to point out exactly its source, several of the branches.

* There is a remarkable cave in this rock, called by the Americans
the Devil’s Oven ; stories are related of persons having gone in and nev¬
er returning.

42“

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA,

into which it divides near its head, might claim this honor. It
does not take its rise in a mountainous country, and yet it must
be of considerable height, from the number of important rivers
■which flow from the same neighbourhood. The country abounds
in lakes and extensive marshes, among which the Mississip¬
pi takes its rise. A narrow ridge of high land separates it from
the waters of lake Winipec. Red Cedar lake, in lat. 47° 38' is
considered by Pike as its source, this is but a few miles from Red
lake in which Red river takes its rise ; here is therefore an easy
communication with the waters which discharge themselves into
Hudson’s bay.

The appearance of the Mississippi in descending, varies but
little. On entering from the Missouri we And ourselves in a
more spacious river : in places where large islands divide the
current, it spreads to a great width, sometimes of several miles ;
yet when this is not the case the channel of the river is but lit¬
tle wider than at the Man dan villages, though at that place it is
only filled in the season ©f high water. The navigation is con¬
sidered dangerous from the Missouri to the mouth of the Ohio,
on account of the great number of sawyers and rafts. Relow this
fine river, no perceptible difference takes place in point of mag¬
nitude, and from the St. Francis to Red river, the general width
scarcely exceeds that of the Missouri. At Point Coupee it as¬
sumes a more -majestic appearance, and from this place con¬
tinues a course, uninterrupted by islands and sand bars, with a
current gradually diminishing.

Theadjacent scenery is as little varied. The banks are cover¬
ed with cotton wood trees, of enormous size, the tops apparently
as level as if made so by design. Scarcely any other tree grows
on the island. Relow the mouth of the Ohio, the cypress makes
its appearance in the bends, where the ground is lower than on
the points and subject to be overflown. . The arunda gigantic a 7
appears about the same place, on the spots of ground least sub¬
ject to inundation. It grows to the height of twenty feet, forming
an impervious thicket. The long moss, or Spanish beard begins
to be seen below the Arkansas, and gives a gloomy appearance
to the woods. The falling in of the banks is amongst the most
remarkable features of this river \ sometimes whole acres with

El VERS Sc LAKES. — BOOK I.

die trees growing* on them are precipitated into the stream, cre¬
ating frightful impediments to the navigation, and not unfrequent-
ly overwhelming boats moored near the shore. In time, the trees
thus fallen in, become sawyers and planters ; the first so named
from the motion made by the top when acted upon by the cur¬
rent, the others are the trunks of trees of sufficient size to resist
it. There are also frequently seen at the heads of islands, im¬
mense collections of drift wood, piled up to a great height,
thrown confusedly together and closely matted : here are found,
boats, canoes, planks, and a great variety of timber, brought down
by the rivers of a hundred climates and soils, and heaped togeth¬
er in chaos. These are amongst the most dangerous places in
the course of the navigation.* The current rushes towards them
with amazing velocity, and it is with great difficulty and the ex¬
ertion of skill, that they are avoided. It is therefore dangerous
to float after night.

The Mississippi is remarkable for the muddiness of its wa¬
ters, a quality altogether derived from the Missouri, but is less
turbid than that river; the waters above the junction, being clear,
the accession of the Illinois, Ohio, and other clear streams tend¬
ing also to render it more limpid than the Missouri. It is not
from the falling in of the banks, as is supposed, that this mud*
diness proceeds; this is scarcely sufficient to supply what is de¬
posited by the river on sand bars, islands, 8tc. between the up¬
per Missouri, (from whence the earth forming it is carried) and
the mouth of the river.

There is a surprising difference in the navigation of this tru¬
ly noble river, in the ordinary stages of water and during the con¬
tinuance of the floods. There have been instances of persons de¬
scending from St Louis to New Orleans, in ten days ; the dis¬
tance, however, is much shortened by being able to cutoff points,
and to go through channels impracticable in low water. The usu¬
al time in low water is from four to six weeks. In ascending,
fifty days to the mouth of the Ohio is considered a good voyage,
but two months is the most usual time ; oars and poles are al-

* For a more minute account of the difficulties of the navigation, and
for many interesting details, I refer the reader to the Ohio and Missis¬
sippi Navigator.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

ways used for the purpose of navigating the boats, but the cor«,
delle, and sails, are also of great importance. In the course of a
voyage it is rare that there are not six or eight days of sailing,
which is a great relief to the hands, as the boat is then propel¬
led against the current without their assistance, sometimes, thir¬
ty miles a day. In very light winds, the sails are hoisted and al¬
though not sufficient alone to cause the boat to ascend, yet af?
ford cqnsiderable help. The boats usually employed are from
ten to thirty tons burthen; as high as Natchez, schooners of fif¬
ty tons often ascend. There are, besides, between the places
just mentioned, a kind of boats of a peculiar construction, much
in use, and carrying often eight or ten tons: they appear to be
formed of a single tree, but in reality out of three of the largest
size; two are hollowed in such a manner as to form the sides, and
a third for the bottom : they are then joined together so as to make
a very durable and strong boat, easily managed, and the most
Safe against hurricanes and violent winds.

The Mississippi carries generally 15 feet water from the
mouth of the Missouri to the Ohio, from thence to the Red ri¬
ver, it seems to increase in depth ; at this place it has as many
fathoms, and at New Orleans not less than forty. On the bar,
there are usually from twelve to fourteen feet, although the wa¬
ter rises at the mouth of the Ohio fifty feet, and but little dim¬
inution is experienced before we pass Natchez; at Baton Rouge
it is not more than 25 feet, at New Orleans only fifteen, and at
^he mouth of the river, is scarcely perceptible.

Tf he floods of the Mississippi usually begin in April ; com¬
mencing with the first flood of the Missouri which is usually
in March, on the breaking up of the ice ; this is followed by the
Mississippi above the junction, afterwards by the Ohio, and
other rivers. The great flood of the Missouri begins in June,
shortly after which those of the Mississippi, in consequence at¬
tain their greatest height. It subsides in August. A very unu¬
sual occurrence took place this winter (1812) in the month of
December, the river rose to within two or three feet of the high¬
est water and continued to be high until the latter end of the
month. The oldest inhabitants had never witnessed any thing of
the kind.

RIVERS k LAKES.— BOOK I.

MISSOURI.

I have already observed that this is much the most consider¬
able of any of the rivers which swell the Mississippi, and one of
the most wonderful in the world. It enters the Mississippi
nearly at right angles in lat. 38° 55'; the confluence is by no
means comparable to that of the Ohio, principally owing to an
island at the entrance. The course of the river in ascending is
little north of west to the Platte. f Above this, its course is near¬
ly N. W. until we reach the Mandan villages, in lat. 46. From
this point the distance to the Mississippi is less than from the
Platte. From the northernmost part of the great bend, above the
Mandans, and in lat. 47° we ascend nearly west; the course of
the three forks, Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin, is nearly S.
W. and S.

The current of this river is at least a fourth greater than that
of the Mississippi. To the Platte, it is amazingly swift, and stem¬
med with great difficulty, abounding with shoals and sand bars,
sawyers, rafts projecting from the shore, and islands. It is al¬
most impracticable to descend in flat-bottomed boats even in the
highest stages of the water : in barges great care and dexterity
are requisite. It is far from being agreeable in appearance, un¬
less we consider the pleasure derived from contemplating its
wonderful swiftness and force. Above the Platte, the Missouri,
though not less swift in current, is rendered more easy of navi¬
gation by the large sand bars, and clear banks, which admit of
towing : but from the scarcity of wood of a proper kind, it is
necessary to lay in a sufficient stock of oars and poles. To the
falls, two thousand miles further, it preserves the same charac¬
ter; the navigation however becomes less dangerous, or difficult,
excepting from the shoals, which in low water are abundant.
Above the falls or cataracts, there is a clear fine river five hun-

f About twenty miles up, each river makes a sudden turn — the Mis¬
souri S W. and the Mississippi N, E. but, I do hot know upon what
ground it is asserted, that after having descended either river for
several days, the voyager will find himself within a days march of the
other.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

dred miles to the three forks, affording better navigation than
any part of the Missouri, although the channel is generally nar¬
row and sometimes confined between lofty mountains. The three
forks are all fine rivers, and receive a great number of smaller
streams. In ascending the Missouri, sails are of more impor¬
tance than on any of the western rivers. The openness of the
country gives scope to the winds, which in the spring and sum¬
mer usually blow from the S. E. and suit the general course of
the river : I frequently ascended, notwithstanding the swiftness
of the current, from thirty to forty miles per day for three or
four days in succession.

The Missouri is remarkable for its large and smaller bends.
The greater we have already seen from the general course of the
river; it would therefore not be surprising that it should after¬
wards turn south and take the course of the Mississippi. The
small bends are where the river pursues a zig zag course for
forty or fifty miles, constantly returning upon its steps.

The Missouri receives all its principal rivers from the S. W.
side. The extent of country to be drained on the N. E. side is to
the other, as the east side of the Mississippi is to the western.
This is owing to the vicinity of the Mississippi, and the N. W *
Chain of lakes. The distance from the Mandan villages to the
British establishment on the Red river of Winipec, is but a few
days journey.

The floods of this river usually begin early in March, and
there is a continued succession of them until the last of July ;
the river subsiding and again rising as the different rivers bring
down their annual tributes. It so happens, that seldom more
than two great rivers are high at the same period. Many of these
floods are never felt in the Mississippi. But the great rise of the
Missouri itself, from the melting of the snows, takes place, about
the tenth of June, and begins to subside about the latter end of
July. In some of the northern branches, the ice does not break
up until late in the season : about one thousand miles up the Mis¬
souri, I saw a large cake of ice floating in the river on the last
of May.

There is little variation in the width of this river from its
raoAith to the cataracts. In some places it spreads considerably,

RIVERS & LAKES.— BOOK I.

and In these, sandbars impede the navigation in low water : at
these times the river is reduced in places to less than a fourth
of its usual breadth, between sand-bars which advance into it,
and a high bank. But when the channel is full, the river even at
the Mandans, appeared to me not less broad or majestic, than
does the Mississippi at New Orleans.

The cataracts of the Missouri, from every description, are,
next to those of Niagara, the most stupendous in the world. The
descent, in the distance of eighteen miles, according to the esti¬
mation of Lewis and Clark, is 362 feet 9 inches.

The first great pitch 98 feet

— second - 19 —

— - third - 47 — 8 inches

— fourth - 26 —

besides a number of smaller ones. The width of the river is
about three hundred and fifty yards.

The whole extent of navigation of this riyer which has no
other cataract or considerable impediment, from tire highest
point on Jefferson river., the largest of the three forks, to its en¬
trance into the Mississippi, is three thousand and ninety-six
miles ; no other tributary stream in the world possesses such a
navigation.

ARKANSAS.

The Arkansas, next to the Missouri, is the most consid¬
erable tributary of the Mississippi. In length it is nearly two
thousand five hundred miles, and navigable at proper seasons
nearly the whole distance. In many places its channel is
broad and shallow, at least above the rapids, so as to render na¬
vigation almost impracticable. Until eight or nine hundred
miles from its mouth, it receives no considerable streams, owing
to the vicinity of the waters of the Missouri, of the Kansas, See ,
on the one side, and those of Red river on the other. The chief-
rivers which fall into it, are the Verdigris, the Negracka, Cana¬
dian river, Grand river, Sec. Several are remarkable for being
strongly impregnated with salt ; the Arkansas itself, at. certain
seasons is said to be brackish.

Vl£WS OF LOUISIANA;

The lands on this river for six or eight hundred miles Up*
are described as very fine and capable of affording settlements^
though principally untimbered. For a long distance up, the flat
lands on either side are intersected with numerous bayoux. — .
There is a remarkable communication between the Arkansas
and White river, by a channel or bayou connecting the two ri¬
vers with a current setting alternately into the one or the other^
as the flood in either happens to predominate*

RED RIVER

Takes its source in the Cordilleras, at no great distance
north of Sta. Fe. In length it is about the same with the Arkan¬
sas. It is navigable six or eight hundred miles, with scarcely any
obstruction. There^is at that point a curious raft, formed of logs
and earth, which entirely covers its channel ; trees are growing
Upon it, and one might pass Over without perceiving the river.
Red river runs in a valley on an average fifteen miles wide, for
at least eight hundred miles, which is every where intersected
with bayoux, and large lakes. The navigation meets with the
first impediment one hundred and fifty miles up. The falls
or rapids are about two miles in length, the breadth of the
river two hundred and fifty yards. They are occasioned by a soft
rock of free stone: the greatest pitch in low water, notbeingmore
than eight or nine inches. This river might with much more jus¬
tice than the Mississippi, be called the American Nile. A country
lies on its borders more extensive than Egypt, and of a soil the
richest perhaps in the world. Its waters, which are not potable, are
very red, impregnated with some mineral. The river is remark¬
ably narrow; it seldom spreads to the width of two hundred and
fifty yards, and is more generally contracted to one hundred; it
is also exceedingly crooked. The annual swell, which is early
in the spring of the year, raises the water fifty or sixty feet, when
it flows with great rapidity : but during the summer and season
of low water, it is sunk within deep and ragged clay banks, of an
unsightly appearance, and has not more than eight or ten feet of
water. The out-lets from this river are more numerous than
even from the Mississippi, and joined by streams which flow
from the uplands, or pine woods. The course of the river is con-

&IVE&S & LARGS-BOOK t

stantly subject to change; many of the bayoux which at present
appear inconsiderable, at no distant period constituted the bed of
the principal river.

The following are amongst the most considerable tributaries
of the Mississippi and Missouri, and may be noticed in this
place.

R. DES CORBEAUX,

The western branch of the Mississippi, and affording the besj
communication with Red river of Winipec. This river is as-
cended one hundred and eighty miles to the Leaf river, Which
enters from the N. W. ; the Leaf river is again ascended the same
distance ; there is then a portage of one half mile to the Otter
Tail lake, the principal source of Red river. The other branch
of the riviere des Corbeaux, bears S. W\ and approaches the
St. Peters,

ST. PETERS

Enters the Mississippi about forty miles below the falls Of
St. Anthony. It is a fine stream, and maybe navigated to its source,
a thousand miles ; the current is gentle, and in places scarce¬
ly perceptible ; in the spring and summer it is covered with
wild fowl, which collect here for the purpose of breeding, and
find abundant nourishment in the wild rice which grows in the
river and neighbouring lakes. Its principal branches are, Blue
Earth river, Red Wood river , and Yellow Wood river.

DES -MOINES*

Next to the St. Peters, it is the largest of the rivers which
the Mississippi receives from the west, above the confluence
with the Missouri. It enters two hundred and fifty miles from
their junction, and is navigable without a fall or scarcely an inter¬
ruption, to the Pelican lake, where it rises, and which is not far
from the Sioux river of the Missouri, a distance of about eight
hundred miles. Rackoon river, the principal branch enters on the
S. W. side, and is navigable several hundred miles. There are
several others of some magnitude, particularly the Red Cedar
river,

•VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

J&.

&RAXl» RIVER,

Enters the Missouri oil the 1ST. E. side, about 250 miles upj &
fine river, navigable six hundred miles ; general course not dis¬
tant from the* Missouri. Formerly , when the traders bound for
the Mahas, (800 miles up the Missouri) were infested by the
Kansas Indians, they ascended this river, and then crossed to the
Missouri.

It AX'S AS,

Rises in the vast plains between the Arkansas and the Platte.
It is one of the finest rivers of the Missouri, though inferior to
several of them in extent. The principal branches are the Smoky
Hill Fork, Grand Saline, Solomon's Fork, and the Republican
Fork. It enters the ‘ Missouri 300 miles up. I have conversed
with hunters who had ascended it, without meeting any conside¬
rable obstacles, more than three hundred leagues. It receives
a great number of large streams, and is by no means well known.
The adjacent country is generally prairie, and the cliffs on the
river, are frequently solid rocks of gypsum.

THE FLATTE,

is the longest and largest of the rivers which discharge
themselves into the Missouri, being little short of two thousand
miles, and yet can hardly be reckoned a navigable stream. The
channel is extremely wide and abounds with ever varying quick¬
sands. Several fine navigable rivers, however, discharge them¬
selves into it; the ElkHorn, and the Wolf river, and the Padon»
cas Fork.

THE YELLOW STONE (OR ROCHE JATJNE,)

Has ionsidefable resemblance to the Missouri in extent and
difficulty of navigation, and is the most considerable of those
livers Which discharge themselves into it. The Missouri, un¬
dergoes a perceptible change after the junction. In seasons of
high water it is more properly a torrent; the descriptions of its
Vapidity are almost incredible. It enters the Missouri 1 880 miles
up. The principal branches are, Big Horn, Tongue river, and
Clark's river. fc

RIVERS & LAKES— BOOK I.

WHITE R. - CHIENNE R. - R. A. JARUE - SIOUX R»

Might be reckoned the largest rivers any where else. The
Little Missouri, (90 leagues above the Mandan villages) is re¬
markable for the quantity of mud which it carries clown. At
the Maria river , a large stream which enters the Missouri two
thousand miles up, the muddiness of the Missouri in some mea¬
sure ceases.

There are several considerable rivers, between the Missouri
and the N. western lakes. Red river is the principal; the Assinc-
boin is its principal branch. The Mouse river, or Saskashawin,
which flows into the Assineboin, is remarkable for taking its rise
from the very bank of the Missouri

The following, is a table of the navigable rivers of Louisiana ;
it is necessarily incomplete, but from it some rude conjecture
can be formed as to the immense extent of navigation which it
possesses.

TABLE OF NAVIGABLE RIVERS IN LOUISIANA— ^EXTENT OF
NAVIGATION.

Principal R. j Tributaries

JYavi.

Remarks,

MISSISSIPPI..

Sang Sue . .
Pike It. . . .
des C.orbeaux
St. Peters . „
Turkey R.
Catfish R.
des Moines
Wayaeonda
^auflione ,
Salt R. . .
BufFaloe .
Cuiyre . .
Missouri .
Marainek-
St. Francis
White R. ,
Arkansas .
Red R. . .

DES COEBEAUX
ST. PETERS....

DES MOINES...

Leaf R.

Blue Earth R.
Red Wood R.
Yellow Wood R
Rackoon R. . .
Red Cedar R.

3,000

120

300

1,000

By some considered the source
of the Miss, heads in Leech lake,
and is larger than the branch
which rises in Red Cedar lake;
considered the source of the a-
bove mentioned river.

800 About 250 miles above the mouth
of the Missouri, not much known.

150

3,096

350

800

1,100

2,000

2,500

15,296

180

There is a portage of one mile
from the head of (this river to the
Otter Tail lake, the principal
source of Red River of Winipec.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA,

Principal R
^issquriT...

Tributaries. | Navi, |

Remarks.

Gasconnade .

100

S. W. side

MineR. . . •

id.

G Osage . ,

600

• id.

1 Charlatans .

id.

2 Charlatans .

100

N. E. side

Grand R . . .

600

N. E. side

Kansas ....

1,200

S. W. side

Little R. Platte

N. E. side

Nodawa ....

N E side

Platte ....

S. W. upwards of 2,000 miles

F‘oydJs R. , .

in length, but affords little or no

Big Sioux . . .
White Stone .

200

navigation.

River a Jaque

300

N. E. A point of rendezvous for
the traders, and the Yankton
band of Sioux.

Qui Courre . .

S. W. A handsopie river, bpt

not navigable any great distance.

Poncas ....

S. W.

White It.

Tylers R. . . .

6Q0

S. W. A large fine river ; its
branches not known, 300 yards at
its mouth.

Chienne R. . .

800

S. W Not better known than
White river ; 400 yards wjd.e at
its mouth.

Ser-war-ser-na

S. W side

Win-i-pen-hu

S W.

Cannon-ball R.

S. W. 140 yards wide

Knife R. . . .

S. W. Near the Mandan vil¬
lages.

Little Missouri

S W. 134 yards wide, but not
navigable.

Goose R. . . .

N. E. 300 yards wide.

White earth R.

N.E.

Yellow? Stone ,

S. W. 855 yards wide at the
mouth ; a very large river, equal
in length to the Platte; affords
much better navigation, but is
astonishingly rapid.

Porcupine R. .

N. E. 112 yards wide.

Dry R .

S W 100 do.

Big Dry R. . .

S. W. 400 do.

Muscle Shell R.

S. W. 100 do.

Big Horne . .

S W 100 do.

Manoles . . .

S. w. 1QQ do.

F ancy R. . . .
Dearborne . .

S. W. 180 do.

Maria .....

N. E. At this place the Mis¬

souri is observed to have near¬
ly all its turbidness.

Jefferson Fork

Madison . . .

Gallatin ....

RIVERS & LAKES.— BOOK I. 5$

Principal ft.

| Tributaries .

JVavi.

Remarks.

YEL. STONE...

MARAMEK .

Big Horne . .
Tongue R. . .
Clark’s R. . .
Lewis’s R. . .
BigR. . * . . .

15Q

ST. FRANCIS..

Western branch

15C

This river is not perfectly

Penusco ...

known.

WHITE RIVER

AuxCashe . .

Black R. . . .
James R. . . .

400

150

ARKANSAS .

Rapid John . .
Red Riyer . .
Verdigris . .

100

300

200

Nagraca . . .

150

RED RIVER .

Canadian R. ,
Grand R . . .
Grand Saline .
Stro ng Saline .
Black R. , . .

100

200

This river is formed by the

G. OSAGE .

KANSAS . .

Nangira . . .
Grand R. . . .
The. Fork . . .
Cook’s R . . .
Vermillion R.
Smokey hill F.

junction of the Tensa, Washita
and Little river — There are nu¬
merous navigable bayoux and
streams from Red river, but no
considerable branches except the
one just mentioned.

These rivers are navigable

Grand Saline .

from 150 to 300 miles.

PLATTE .

Soloman’s Fork
Republican do.
Elk-horn . . .

400

Wolf R. . . .

600

Heads in a lak$*

BLACK R, (w.)

Padoncas . . .
Spring R. . . .

Rises in a lake, ^and is naviga ¬

black r. (m )

Current ....
Eleven ....
Washita . .

1,000

ble from the very source*

Riviere au Bceuf

400

This is a long river which flows

Tensa .

150

between the Mississippi and the

Catahoula . .

Washita, and said to communi¬

Little River .

100

cate with the St. Francis, by

RED RIVER.....

Litile Missouri

means of a lake, with which the

of Winipec

Assineboin . .

waters of that river are connected.

TECHE.

Saskashawin .

150

Called a bayou, but more pro¬
perly a river.

SABINE .

Chaffallaya .

400

300

A continuation of Red river.

I have not attempted to enumerate the different navigable bayoux
and lakes, but these are very numerous : and doubtless many rivers equal
in size to the Schuylkill, have not been placed in this table, the country
being still but imperfectly explored.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

CHAPTER Y.

NATURAL OR INDIGENOUS PRODUCTIONS— ANIMAL, VEGETA¬
BLE, AND MINERAL.

NOT being a naturalist, I shall only attempt to give some
idea of the extensive field whi :h lies open to the learned. Were
I to attempt, upon a slender knowledge, to give a scientific acr
count, I might lead the reader into error.

I am informed that the western side of the Mississippi, to the
eye of the naturalist, has a character altogether different from
any part of the United States, and that except New Holland, the
world does not afford a more interesting field.

Mr. Bradbury* has made an extensive collection of speci¬
mens, and some very interesting discoveries. The indefatigable
research of this gentleman, and that heart-engaged enthusiasm*
which the student of the great book of nature, has ever been ob¬
served to possess, promise a valuable acquisition to pleasurable
and useful knowledge. The discoveries of Uewis and Clark*
even in this department, are said to be very important; but, from
t he expedition necessary in the movements of the exploring par-,
ties, and the necessity of a continual watch, for their own safety,
they could not posses the opportunity and leisure, necessary for
the examination of objects more minute.

The forest trees, and plants and animals, described by Mr.
Jefferson, and other writers, are found in some part or other of
this territory ; but there is also a great variety, peculiar to itself.
The subject of its mineralogy remains untouched. Mr. Brad¬
bury has discovered nearly one hundred and fifty non- de script
plants ; near twenty of which, cannot be assigned to any known
genera, and may therefore be considered as forming new ones.

* About the time of writing the following view of the natural pro¬
ductions , &c. I became acquainted with Mr. Bradbpry, and submitted
the sketch to him, he was good enough to make some corrections, and
to annex several interesting notes. Mr. Bradbury is a naturalist of emi¬
nence, a fellow of the Linnean Society, and engaged to come to this
country to pursue his researches.

PRODUCTIONS, BOOK I. £5

His discoveries with respect to the animated part of the creation,
and the subterraneous riches of the country, are not less impor¬
tant.

ANIMALS.

Agreeably to what I have already said, I shall not attempt to
give any catalogue of animals, plants, See. but merely notice
those most remarkable.

The Grizzly Bear — First claims our attention. This animal, is
the monarch of the country which he inhabits. The African lion,
or the tyger of Bengal, are not more terrible or fierce. He is the
enemy of man ; and literally thirsts for human blood. So far from
shunning,, he seldom fails to attack ; and even to hunt him.* The
Indians make war upon these ferocious monsters, with the same
ceremonies, as they do upon a tribe of their own species : and in
the recital of their victories, the death of one of them, gives the
warrior greater renown than the scalp of a human enemy.

The Grizzly bear, is a non-descript , and much the largest of
the species. He is three times the size of a common brown
bear, and six times that of an European one. One of them, kill¬
ed by Lewis and Clark, near the Porcupine river, about two
thousand miles up the Missouri, measured as follows :

Round the head 3 feet 5 inches

Round the neck 3 feet 1 1 inches

Length 8 feet 7-J inches

Round the fore-leg I foot 1 1 inches
Talons — in length 4| inches

Mr. Manuel Lisa, the first who ascended to this countiy for t&e
purpose of trade, and who spent nine months in it, informed me
that they sometimes exceed 1,200 lbs. in weight, and that one
full grown, will commonly weigh eight or nine hundred. He
possesses an amazing strength, and attacks without hesitation
and tears to pieces the largest buffaloe. The color, is usually
such as the name indicates, though there are varieties, from black
to silvery whiteness. The skins are highly valued for muffs and
tippets ; and will bring from twenty to fifty dollars each.

* I am credibly informed that he has been known to pursue -the
trade of a hunter arrhot/y aftey his having passed.

VIEWS OP LOUISIANA.

This bear is not usually seen lower than the Mandan villa-
ges. In the vicinity of the Roche Jaune, and of Little Missouri,
they are said to be most numerous. They do not wander much
in the prairies, but are usually found in points of wood, in the
neighbourhood of large streams. The Indians haroly ever ven¬
ture into the fringe of wood, which borders the rivers, in that
great extent of open country, without first setting up a loud and
continued shout, in order that the bears, if there be any, may
either come forth to attack them, or retire, if they happen not
to be so disposed.

In shape, he differs from the common bear in being propor-^
tionably more long and lank. He does not climb trees, a circum¬
stance which has enabled hunters with whom I am acquainted,
to make their escape. The Indians complain that some of their
best warriors, have fallen victims to this animal. Lewis and
Clark’s men, on several occasions, narrowly escaped from their
attacks. The Grizzly bear is sufficient to disprove, the idle the¬
ories of Buffon or Raynal, as to the impotency of the new
world in the production of animals.

Antelope, was thought to be a non-descript species of deer, it
is a beautiful little animal, and is found on the Missouri above
the Platte. The antelope goes in flocks of several hundreds; the
Indians frequently take them, by driving them into the water
and attacking them with clubs.

Grosse Come , so called from the large size of the horns,
some of them being two feet in length, and four or five inches
in diameter; they are extremely shy, and climb without difficul¬
ty to the pinnacle of the highest mountain, and sport upon the
giddy verge of precipices. They have been called also mountain
sheep, but have little resemblance to sheep, except in the head,
horns, and feet. On the rump, they are white, but every where
else of a dun color. In size they exceed the deer, and have a
fi'ne soft hair: the horns of the male are larger than those of the
female. This animal is thought to be the Agalia.

The Bujfaloe , may be said to have retired north of the Illinois,
anti west of the Mississippi. The plains of Indiana and Illinois,
were once his places of favorite resort, and he loved to frequent
-the banks of the beautiful Ohio; but encroaching settlements

PRODUCTIONS, 8tc. — BOOK I.

Iiav6 driven him away His proper country appears to be the
plains of the Missouri; those of Indiana and Illinois, are minia¬
tures of these. Here the buffaloe is found in immense herds;
frequently covering the plain as far as the eye can reach. Some
of these herds, have been estimated at fifty thousand heads. In
the dry season, they are found in the neighbourhood of the great
rivers, but there are also regular migrations of them from north
to south, when they are seen pussing the Missouri, for several
days in succession, like the march of Xerxes’ army.

The wool* of the buffaloe has a peculiar fineness, even
surpassing that of the merino. I have seen gloves made of it,
little inferior to silk. But for the difficulty of separating the hair;
it might become a very important article of commerce. Should
any means be discovered of effecting this, or should it be found;
that at certain seasons, there is less of this mixture, the buffaloe
wool must become of prime importance in manufactures.

Elk and Deer , are found in great numbers in this territory.,
In the neighbourhood of the settlements deer are very abun¬
dant; the poor animals enjoy some respite from their cruel per¬
secutors, on account of the low state of the peltry trade, and
for some time past have been observed to increase. Two va¬
rieties of deer are discovered high up on the Missouri. The
black tailed, or mule deer ; remarkable for very long ears, and
tails almost without hair, except at the end where there is a
small tuft of a black color. The other kind is distinguished by
very small horns, and a tail of unusual length— eighteen or twen-
ty inches.

There is a species of wolf different from the wolverin, and a
curious one of the fox. The braireau or badger, is found on the
Mississippi and on the Missouri. The changeable hare ( lefius
iuariadilisj a beautiful animal, gray in summer, and white in win¬
ter is seen in this country.

* It is curious to observe, that in the instruction to Iberville by the
king of France, two things were considered of the first importance, the
pearl fishery , and the buffaloe ivool. Charlevoix observes, that he is not
surprised that the first should not have been attended to, but he thinks
it strange that the second should be neglected even to his time*

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

The Prairie dog , or Squirrel , is a great curiosity. It lives in bur¬
rows, or as they are commonly called towns , and is about a third
larger than the fox squirrel. The head is thick and clumsy, it has
large jaws, full, large eyes, but the ear is not prominent, consist-
ing of little more than the orifice. The body is long, and legs short,
the tail not much larger than that of a common ground squir¬
rel, and very delicate ; the hair short and sleek, of a light grey,
excepting on the belly, where it is white. It is without doubt a
species of squirrel, though it has a cloven lip like the rabbit. It
makes a noise very similar to that of the ground squirrel, though
much louder; and resembling in a slight degree the barking
of a very small dog. When at some distance from its hole, which,
however, seldom happens, it may be easily caught, but is exceed¬
ingly fierce in the first instance ; yet in a few days, it becomes
perfectly domesticated, and is pleased with being caressed. It sel¬
dom drinks; it feeds on the grass which grows around its hole,
and remains torpid during winter. These towns are to be found
in the large prairies about three hundred miles west of the Mis¬
sissippi, and are frequently more than a mile in length. The si¬
tuation chosen, is generally dry, being on the slope of a hill, and
at a distance from any water course When a person approaches,
he is assailed by the whole village, with a noise, which as I have
mentioned, bears a resemblance to the barking of small dogs. The
animals are seen behind small hillocks at the side of their holes;
on approaching within a few yards of one of these, the inhabi¬
tant instantly retreats to his subterraneous apartments. The
wolves have declared war against these curious people, and fre¬
quently commit great havoc, in their little republics.

The Gophers* is supposed to be a non-descript ; it lives un¬
der ground, in- the prairies, and is also found east of the Missis¬
sippi. It bears considerable resemblance to the mole, but is
twice the size of that animal. It has at each jaw, a kind of bag,
or purse, about one inch and a half in length, for the purpose of
conveying food, or for carrying the clirt out of its hole. The

* This name is also given to a species of terrapin.

Note by Mr. Bradbury — If the Gopher is not the animal, described
in the System* Nature, as mu& bicrsorius, by Linn&us, it is yet unde¬
scribed.

PRODUCTIONS, &c.-— BOOK L

quantity of earth thrown up, is enormous ; frequently forming
mounds of three or four feet in height

The Alligator , is too well known to require any thing to be
said of him. He is not considered a ferocious or dangerous ani¬
mal by the inhabitants. The numbers of this animal have les¬
sened of late years from the destruction made by the inhabitants,
who value their skins.

The Cameleon , is very common ; and I am informed that in
the southern parts, both the scorpion and the tarantula exist.

Of the feathered tribes, something may also be said. There
is a beautiful bird called the prairie hen, which I think is not de¬
scribed. In winter it is found in large flocks, comes into barn¬
yards. and frequently alights on the houses of the villagers. It
is somewhat larger than the pheasant of the United States, (tetrao
umbellus ,) which it resembles somewhat in color, but in shape
Is much like the guinea hen : and differs from the pheasant in be¬
ing easily domesticated. The flesh is dry, black, and by no means
agreeable. There is a bird on the Missouri, which bears a strong
resemblance to the pheasant, but. is nearly as large as a turkey
hen ; it is described as being a fine bird. I have seen a specimen
of the Columbia partridge, of the most beautiful plumage. The
magpie is found in abundance on the Missouri.

In the settlements, and for a considerable distance up the
Missouri, turkies stalk through the woods, in numerous flocks,
but are rarely met with where the open country commences.
Quails, tetrao marliandica , are found every where. In the fall
of the year all the lakes are literally covered with wild fowl ,
ducks, geese, swans, cranes, and a variety of others.

VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS.

I have already observed that an extensive field lies open to
the botanist. There are even some considerable forest trees, yet
undescribed: there is particularly one very beautiful, bois jaune ,
or yellow wood: by some called the mock orange. In size, it
equals that of the largest peach tree, and the leaves, though
longer, are pretty nearly similar. The trunk is short, the limbs
branching out low down. The fruit has some resemblance to the

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.,

©b,

orange, but more spherical, and covered with tubercles;* the gch
lor, when at maturity, is a pale yellow. This fruit has been
deemed poisonous, but perhaps without reason : in its green
state, it gives forth when cut, a great quantity of milky fluid,
which possesses a corrosive nature, blackening the knife, with
which it is cut, like the pine apple. It would certainly be in gar¬
dens a highly ornamental tree ; Mr. Chateau, of St. Louis, has
planted one in his garden, which thrives well. The tree is found
on the Osage, Arkansas, and other places west of the Missis¬
sippi;! it is said, in low, moist and swampy ground. The wood
is remarkably heavy, scarcely yielding to lignum vitce, and of a
' beautiful yellow. It might be of use in dyes, or for inlaying. The
Indians use of it for war clubs, and for bows.

There is a grape on the Missouri, found in the prairies,
which ripens in the month of June, as far north as latitude 40®.
It is very sweet and pleasant. A hundred writers, have spoken
of the vines of the Illinois, with strange exaggeration. This
forms a part of the pictures of the romancing writers, who first
described Louisiana. Father Hennepin, describes the sugar
cane , as growing spontaneously, on the banks of the Mississip¬
pi, and tells of purple clusters of grapes, imparting their rich
hues to the gliding wave. Notwithstanding the figure the vines
of this country have made in description, they are very little dif¬
ferent from those of the United States. Formerly a wretched
sort of wine was made of the winter grape, but which is at pre¬
sent almost neglected. These vintages were never considered
of much importance. The wine was made by bruising the
grapes in a large tub; a heavy stone was then placed on them,
to press out the juice, which flowed through an opening at the
bottom into a vessel prepared for its reception.^

* See the voyage of Hunter and Dunbar up the Wabash.

f I have seen one near Natchitoches, on the Red river.

t Note by Mr. Bradbury. On the Ohio and on the Mississippi, there
are two kinds of grapes, not found in the United States ; vitis cestivalis
and vitis vipyria ; the last is a very fine grape. There are also two spe¬
cies on the Missouri, the one described, and a white grape, said to be
very fine. The change which all the American vines, undergo from cuL

PRODUCTIONS, 8te.— BOOK I.

Amongst the forest trees of this country, the cedar, (juni-
perus virginiana,) the cotton wood, (populus anguliscus,) and.
the peccanne, (juglans olivse formus) deserve particular atten¬
tion. The cedar, grows in great abundance and perfection.
There are fine groves, on the Maramek, St. Francis, Missouri,
and on the Mississippi. Some very large islands in the Missou¬
ri are covered with this tree. The houses in the villages are ge¬
nerally built of this wood, which is also used for their enclo¬
sures. The cotton wood (so called from a down which it casts
off in the spring, with which the air is filled like fleeces of snow)
does not appear to have attracted as much attention as it de¬
serves. It is invariably found on the river bottoms of the Mis¬
sissippi, and Missouri, and after the willow, is the first; tre»
which springs up on alluvion soils. The more ancient islands
of the rivers west of the Mississippi, as well as on that river,
are covered with this tree ; it adds much to the beauty of the
scenery, from its lofty and uniform appearance, and the deep
green of its foliage contrasted with the light color of the river.
The growth of this tree is extremely rapid; it shoots up in the
course of a few years, into a noble column, several feet in dia¬
meter, and forty or fifty in height, before it becomes lost in
branches. It permits no part lately gained from the river to re¬
main long without timber; and will afford wood to the settlers
of adjacent prairie, which could not otherwise be settled, as it
answers extremely well for rails and fuel. The peccanne,* is
found on the low grounds, where it grows to most perfection;
it is a large tree resembling somewhat the hickory, but has a
more delicate leaf, its branches are more numerous and spread¬
ing, and it is in every respect a more beautiful tree. There were
formerly beautiful groves of it in the American bottom, (Illinois)
but they have been nearly destroyed in order to procure the
nuts. The sugar tree ( acer saccharinus ) is found in the pre¬
sent limits of the settlements, but not far to the west, or to the

ture, is truly surprising ; kind and bounteous nature, seems to have fur¬
nished vines suited to every climate and soil ; so that no part of the hu¬
man race should be denied this general blessing.

* It is one of the principal ornamental trees of the plantations on the
lower parts of the Mississippi.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

south. The cypress, magnolia, ever green oak, and a number
of other trees, common in the state of Louisiana, have been am*
ply described by Barton and Michaud.

Amongst the wild fruits of Louisiana, the plum has been
celebrated. They are in great abundance.* Several species de¬
serve to be transplanted to our gardens ; the yellow plum is deli¬
cious. Mulberries are very abundant, both on the Mississippi,
and a considerable distance up the Missouri. The woods and
prairies are every where overrun with strawberry vines ; the
fruit is excellent. Le Haut Missouri , (the upper Missouri, the
name given it by the French traders) surpasses the other parts
of the territory, in the variety of wild fruits ; plums, cherries,
currants and a great variety of berries.

Of flowers, and herbaceous plants, peculiar to this country, f
there exist a great variety, but want of botanical skill, and the
plan assumed for these cursory views, prevent me from entering
into detail. White clover, grows wild in many parts of the coun¬
try. In the upper Missouri, the plains are filled with hyssop ;
near the mountains there is a plant resembling flax4 Hunters

* Note by Mr. Bradbury Amongst the species of plums in Lou¬
isiana, and particularly at some distance up the Missouri, there is none
more interesting than the prairie plum, ( primus chickasa J which lit¬
erally covers tracts of ground, of many acres in extent, and produces
fruit so abundantly, as to bend down to the earth with its weight.

f The natural consequence of the difference of habit, arising from
the prairies, and flint knobs, which of course give birth to distinct tribes
in the vegetable kingdom; many of which, could not exist in the um¬
brageous woods of the eastern states. Bradbury.

$ From the description of this plant, it seems probable, that it is a
new species of linum ; and although perennial, differs from linum perenne v

The number of plants, made use of by the aborigines, for medical
purposes, is much greater than might be supposed, by those unacquaint¬
ed with the skill, in the healing art, of these untaught children of na¬
ture. But not having, as yet, had an opportunity of examining the con¬
tents of their medicine bags , I am not prepared to give a scientific ac¬
count, nor of the plant with which they produce the beautiful dye, in
their ornaments ; it is, however, a golium, and I think a new species.

Bradbury.

[This was written before Mr. Bradbury ascended the Missouri.!

PRODUCTIONS, &c. — BOOK I.

tell of some curious plants on the Arkansas, amongst which
are the common sun -flower, the bean, and the simblin, which
grow there in their natural state. There is no reason to think
this improbable, for these plants are known to be indigenous.

MINERALS.

If we denominate parts of the United States, by their pre¬
dominating characters, and qualities; this territory may be call¬
ed the country of minerals.

A small quantity of gold, is said to have been found on the
St. Francis, by an inhabitant of St Genevieve ; it is probable,
that some of the precious metals may be found, and it is certain
that nearly all the useful ones exist in great abundance. A story
is related of a wonderful mass of plating on the Black river ;
this is not sufficiently attested, to merit much attention.*—
It is the prevailing opinion, that there is silver, and numerous
stories are related respecting it. A hundred places, where there
is said to be silver ore, are indicated from the information of In¬
dians and hunters ; on the Missouri, Arkansas, and on the wa¬
ters of White river. Geographers have for a long time, agreed
in placing a gold mine on the Arkansas; and, considering the
precision with which it is marked on the map, it is surprising
to me that some of our enterprising Americans do not avail
themselves of it. Many accounts have been given of silver
mines on the Red nver; above the Cado nation. Du Pratz as-

* The story is related by Indians ; it has been supposed to be ptcitinct ,
from their description, but it is most likely some other metal, as platina
is only found in very small pieces. The weight of the mass, being dis-
proportioned to its size, causes a curious deception to the Indians, who,
in consequence, call it a moncton or spirit. A story similar 1o this, was
told me by an Arikara chief, of a mass which he has frequently seen in
a prairie near the Black mountains. Another mass has actually been
brought down Red river, by some hunters ; it is probably native iron.

This wealth in precious metals, is certainly flattering ; but the expe¬
rience of Spain affords a salutary lesson, that a people may possess itr
in the greatest abundance and be poor in every thing else. The cele¬
brated Adam Smith, proves that it is labor and industry alone that
give a nation real wealth. We should be richer in mines of iron or lead,
than in those of go!4 and silver.

64 ViEWS OF LOUISIANA,

scrts positively, that silver ore was brought from thence in his
time.

When we view, the space between the Rocky mountains*
the Cordilleras, (which pervade New Mexico) and the rivers,
Missour and Mississippi, a conjecture may be formed not alto-
getner unworthy of attention. Silver mines, it is well known,
have been discovered north of the Cordilleras, and between them,
according to the information of lieut* (now col.) Pike, they are
actually wrought by the Spaniards. From the resemblance, in the
character and appearance of this country, o that which lies be¬
tween the Cordilleras and the Missouri, besides the connection
of the different ridges, it seems probable that the same mine¬
rals are common to both, the southern and northern side of those
mountains ; or at least disappear gradually towards the north and
and north-east. The voicanic tract, perhaps, is the tract of pre^
cious minerals* This conjecture, however, is liable to objections*
and is therefore submitted with diffidence.

With more certainty I will venture to mark the situation and
extent of the mineral tracts, or at least so much of them, as tra¬
verse the territory. Nearest to the Mississippi, and beginning
S. on the St. Francis and White river, with its main course and
-diverging dependencies, perhaps two hundred miles in width,
and six hundred in length, is the tract of lead mineral ; perhaps
the most extensive body of any mineral, known in the world.
On all the great rivers which traverse this tract, the ore shews
itself, in their channels, in a variety of places ; as also in ravines
where the soil has been carried off. This is the case, on the
Maramek, the Gasconade, the Osage, on the Mine river of the
Missouri, on the Missouri itself, on la riviere des Moines, and at
length on the Mississippi, below the Ouisconsing. At this place
it crosses the river, and is seen, though in small quantities, in
places round the Michigan. There is very little doubt blit that
all this extent abounds in lead ore, and may afford thousands of
the richest mines. .

The led mines, at present wrought and productive,* are those
between the St. Francis, and the Maramek: extending over a

* Tlie mines known by the name of Dubuques mines, thought to be
filial to any in Louisiana, are not at present wrought. They are situa¬
t'd west side the Mississippi, 60 miles j^elow prairie du Ckien.

PRODUCTIONS, &c.— BOOK I.

tract of about sixty miles in length, ancl twenty in breadth : and
those at the Ouisconsing, on the Mississippi, above the prairie
du Cliien. I reserve the description of the first for a separate
number. The mines of the prairie du Cliien, are still in the
hands of the Sacs and Foxes, and wrought by themselves ex¬
clusively ; but in a very imperfect manner. Last year (1811)
they made about five hundred thousand Weight, which they
disposed of to traders. By some, these mines have been con¬
sidered the richest yet opened. The Indians are badly provi¬
ded with tools for mining ; a common hoe is almost the only
instrument which they use. They merely scratch away the soil
a few feet, and the ore may be said without exaggeration, to be
raised, in the manner of stones in a quarry. The mode of
smelting is equally rude. The ore is thrown on piles of wood,
and the lead is afterwards gathered up in cakes, in the shapes
and forms, assumed by melted lead, when carelessly thrown
out on a hearth. It is afterwards melted by the traders, and made
into pigs by the use of moulds.

West of the tract of lead mineral, is that of the salines: If
runs parallel with the other, but goes further south, and not so
far north. The extent is not Weil known. This tract affords
the most numerous and best salines, of any part of North Ame¬
rica. The number, on the Arkansas and on the Osage is surprise
ingly great. At the salines on the last river, there is a greater
number of the enormous bones of the mammoth, and of other
animals, now extinct, than at the Big Bone Lick, or in any other
part of America.* I have already touched upon the extraordina-

* I am informed about two hundred miles west of St. Louis. No col¬
lection has yet been made from this place. The bones are found in some
places on the surface of the earth, and generally a few feet under
ground.

A prevailing notion, the origin of which is attributed to the cele¬
brated anatomist, Cuvier, is, that these hones belong to a creation dif¬
ferent from the present. They are found in all parts of the world, and
of a great variety of species, some even resembling those of the prer-
Sent creation, but of much greater magnitude. In South America, near
Buenos Ayres, the skeleton of a sloth is said to have been dug up, near¬
ly as large as that of an elephant. Cuvier discovered in the vicinity of
Paris, bones which appertained to a race of animals now extinct. Font?

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

ry body of salt, near the Arkansas. This appears to be the prin¬
cipal seat of the salines. The water of the Arkansas, itself, is
brackish, and persons ascending, are obliged to provide them-
selves, fr6m such streams and springs of fresh water, as put into
it. Near the place, where this tract crosses the Arkansas, sever¬
al streams enter it, which are strongly impregnated with salt ;
among others, the Big Saline, and the Strong Saline, both nearly
one hundred yards in width. It is here that the salt rock is said to
be found, and that salt prairies are known to exist. The salt rock
(if there be such a thing) has not been described by any person,
who has examined it. The notion of its existence was probably
suggested by the solid masses of salt, found in low places, which
have formed drains, or reservoirs for the higher surrounding
ground ; after the evaporation of the water, a crust of good salt
is left in the bottom, congealed like ice. And of this, there ap¬
pear to be accumulations. The color is of the purest white ;
there is usually a mixture of gypsum, and I have seen some pie¬
ces penetrated with sparry matter. Considerable quantities are
also scattered over the prairies, in a pulverised state, resembling
sand; the Indians gather it with the wing of a turkey

I do not mean by marking off these tracts, to convey the idea,
that it is only in such parts, that certain minerals exist, but mere¬
ly as the predominating character, and where these minerals
most abound Throughout every part of the territory, there are
salines, but far below the great scale of those, in the tract which
crosses the Arkansas and Osage rivers.

The volcanic tract, may be placed west of the last, in the
slope, and spurs of the Rocky Ridge. It was formerly conjectur¬
ed from the pumice found floating on the Missouri, that some

or five distinct species of the mammoth are perceived ; the bones found
at the Big Bone Lick prove tile existence of a variety of animals, no
longer on the earth, or not supposed to have existed in these climates.

The traditions said to prevail amongst the Indians on this subject,
are easily accounted for by those, who are acquainted with the custom
amongst those people of indenting and relating amusing tales, like the
Arabs. The big bones would naturally furnish a hint. I have heard
several on this very subject more curious than those, which have been
recited, as affording evidence of the existence of the animal.

PRODUCTIONS, Sec.— BOOK I.

part of the country, traversed by this river, or its waters, was vol¬
canic; this still remains uncertain.* There is no doubt but that
many of these appearances arise from the burning of coal banks.
Near the Mandans, there are places in which smoke is emitted
from the high banks of the river, and putting down a stick into
the fissure, fire is instantly communicated. I think it probable,
that a close examination of the country, will discover traces of
extinguished volcanoes. Mr. Lisa, informed me, that he had
been told by Indians, and some of his hunters, that about sixty
miles from his fort, on the Roche Jaime, at the entrance of a riv¬
er, there is a mountain which emits flames. This is about two
hundred miles from the mouth of the Roche Jaune. In this
part of the country, I am well informed that great quantities of
sulphur can be procured ; it is found not only in caves, but can
be scraped off the prairies in the manner of the salt.

I have spoken of the minerals which are found in the great¬
est quantities, I shall now mention such, as are more thinly dis¬
persed through the territory.

Copper, is certainly found on the Mississippi, between la
riviere des Moines and the Ouisconsing ; and several other places
in the territory are mentioned. There is iron ore on the St.
Francis, on the Maramek, on the Osage, and in great quantities
throughout the White river country. On the St. Francis there
are said to be huge masses like rocks. Several gentlemen who
have examined specimens from these different places, do not
think favorably of the ore, but I believe no proper trial of it, has
yet been made.

There doubtless exists a variety of minerals, which a better
acquaintance with the country will discover: it has not been at¬
tentively examined by any skilful mineralogist. Mr. Bradbury,
on a visit to the mine a Burton, informed me that he found those
working at the mines, throwing away as useless, the blende ore
of Zinc. The late Dr. Elliot of St. Genevieve, f informed me

* A thorough examination of the causes of the late earthquake
might perhaps throw light on this subject. The seat of this convulsion
may be far to the west.

f Formerly of Connecticut. I cannot refrain from seizing this oppor*
-tunity of paying a tribute to the memory of that excellent man. Possess-

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

that an Indian had once brought him a specimen of antimony,
but that he could not be prevailed upon by any offers to shew
the place where it was procured : believing, probably, from the
reward offered him, that it must be something of great value.

Coal, seems to be a fossil common to every part of the valley
of the Mississippi, the space between the range of mountains
towards the Atlantic, and that towards the Pacific. It is found
in every part of this territory. On the east side of the Missis¬
sippi, in the bluffs of the American Bottom, a tree taking fire
some years ago, communicated it by one of its roots to the coal,
which continued to burn, until the fire was at length smothered
by the falling in of a large mass of the incumbent earth. The
appearance of fire, is still visible for several rods around. About
two miles further up the bluffs, a fine coal bank has been open¬
ed; the vein as thick as any of those near Pittsburgh.

Salt-petre has been made on the Gasconade, ancl there is no
doubt, but that great abundance may be had throughout this
country, which reposes on limestone, and is consequently ca¬
vernous. In caves, from the Missouri to the St. Francis, there
are immense quantities of a pure silex, adhering like solid
rock ; it is as white as refined sugar, and so much like it, that
the difference is not discernible to the eye. I have seen a de¬
ception practised on a stranger, by giving him a lump and pass*
ing it for sugar. It crumbles with the pressure of the fingers : in
the manufacture of glass, it may undoubtedly be of use. A beau¬
tiful serpentine * of a red color, is found about three hundred
miles west of the Mississippi, near the heads of la riviere des
Moines and the St. Peters, and of which the Indians make their
pipes. It is soft and easily cut, into any shape in the first instance,
but soon assumes the hardness of stone. A curious circum¬
stance is connected with this and noticed by several writers.
The Indians of different tribes, no matter how inveterate or
fierce their anipipsities, meet here, always in peace. In this sa*

ed of an enlightened and philosophic mind, and the most amiable dis¬
position ever gifted to a mortal. He was formed to instruct and to be
beloved.

♦ So called by Pinkerton, Caryer,

INDIAN NATIONS, &c.— BOOK I.

creel spot of : general rendezvous, that most ungovernable of sav¬
age propensities, revenge, is completely subdued.

There is marble in the territory in various places ; it resem¬
bles that which is commonly found in Kentucky : but none of a
superior quality has yet been discovered On Bon Homme
creek, about fifteen miles from St. Louis, a quarry of stone was
opened some time ago, said to equal the French burr. The mill
stones procured here are thought by good judges to be of a su¬
perior quality, and it only remains for experience to decide.

Earths and clays of a rare and useful kind, have been found
in different parts of the territory. Gypsum, may be had in any
quantities, on the Maramek, Osage, Missouri, 8cc. ; on the Kan¬
sas, I have been informed by hunters there are whole bluffs com¬
posed of it. In the district of Cape Girardeau, there is a kind of
clay, which in painting, answers* the purpose of Ochre.

I shall here notice a phenomenon frequently observed ; but
without attempting a solution, which is left to the scientific. On
the St. Francis and in the White river country, subterraneous
explosions, have been heard, and their effects discerned. The
sound is like that of cannon or distant thunder ; and the earth,
and rocks appear to have been convulsed as though by the force
of gun powder. The rocks blown up, are glazed with a shining
matter, of metallic appearance.*

CHAPTER VI.

A VIEW OF THE INDIAN NATIONS OF LOUISIANA— >OF THE
INDIAN TRADE FOR FURS, &X. OF THE MISSOURI AND MIS°
SISSIPPI.

From the fatal ravages of the small pox, the present Indian
nations of Louisiana, particularly on the Missouri, have not
the tenth of the numbers which they had near thirty years ago.

* I have since learned that the same phenomenon has been known
on the Washita, and on the Sabine.

VIEWS OP LOUISIANA,

5*0

Within a few years past, however, they have been rapidly kk
creasing. Notwithstanding the formidable list here present¬
ed, these people are scattered over so wide a country as scarce¬
ly to be noticed in it. One may travel for days without meet¬
ing a living soul ; I descended the Missouri one thousand, miles
without once seeing a human being that was not of our party.

The only fixed or agricultural villages on the Missouri, are
those of the Osage, Maha’s, Poncas, Pani’s, Ankara’s, and Man-
dan’s; and all on the S. W side of the river. On the Blue earth
river, and in the forks of the Kansas, there are several villages
of the nation of that name, the Pani villages below the mouth of
W;olf river, and a village of Olio’s and Missouri’s. Yet ever*
some of these, are abandoned for a great part of the summer sea¬
son, and their inhabitants wander through the plains; geneially
en masse , and carrying with them all thtir property, excepting
their corn, and a few bulky articles which they deposit in hiding
places. Their oaggage is more cumbrous, than would be imagin¬
ed, and employs a great number of dogs and horses in transport¬
ing it from place to place.

All the other notions lead a life similar to that of the shep¬
herds of Asia; it is true they do not drive domestic herds to
places where the best pasturage may be found, but what
amounts nearly to the same thing, they follow the instinctive mi¬
grations of the BufFaloe,feed upon his flesh and kindle their fires
with his ordure The great object ol serious employment in
these nations, the ruling passion, is a thirst fur mutual destruc¬
tion. The great distance to which their war parties wander in
pursuit of this darling gratification is indeed surprising; eight
hundred or a thousand miles is not an unusual journey. It is
only, however, on women and children, and on parties taken by
surprise that their attacks prove really bloody and destructive.
In their more regular engagements, or battles, where there is
something like equality in the adverse parties, they engage, ge¬
nerally on horseback, in a maneuvering fight, in which they
display wonderful activity and skill on both sides so much so,
that they do each other very little harm A battle between three
or four hundred men on each side, will continue a whole day,
and be at length terminated by the death of two or three and as

INDIAN NATIONS, &C.-BQOK I.

many wounded. In this they bear a strong resemblance to the
Arabs; it is the result of the theatre of war on which they en¬
gage, the open plains, and not the want of courage.

Nearly all the nations of the N W. side, are descendants of
the Sioux, and at peace with each other, but with scarcely an ex¬
ception, at war with those on the S- W. side. These nations have
considerable trade or traffic with each other. The Sioux have
for this purpose regular fairs, or assemblages, at stated periods.
The same thing prevails with the nations on the S. W. side of
the Missouri. Those towards the south, have generally vast
numbers of horses, mules, and asses, which they obtain in trade,
or war, from the Spaniards or nations immediately bordering on
New Mexico. These animals are chiefly transferred to the na¬
tions N. E. of the river, by such of the southern tribes as hap¬
pen to be on good terms with them, who obtain in exchange Eu¬
ropean articles, procured from the British traders. Their stock of
horses requires to be constantly renewed by thefts or purchases :
from the severity of the climate and the little care taken of the
foals, the animal would otherwise be in danger of becom¬
ing extinct Their mode of trading with each other is perfect¬
ly primitive. There is no bargaining or dispute about price;
a nation or tribe comes to a village, encamps near it, and after de¬
monstrations on both sides of a thousand barbarous civilities, as
sincere as those which are the result of refinement, one of the
parties makes a general present of all such articles as it can con¬
veniently spare : the other a short time after makes in return a
similar present, the fair is then concluded by a variety of games,
sports and dances. They hold the mode of trading by the
whites, in great contempt; tney say it displays a narrow and
contemptible soul to be weighing and counting every trifle; the
price is usually fixed by the chief and his council, and the na¬
tion as well as traders must submit.

Their arms consist principally of bows, spears, clubs, and
light fusees. But the bow, particularly in hunting, is still the
principal weapon. Like all savages they are superstitious. It ap¬
peared to me that if they had any particular object of adoration
it was the buffaloe head. They place it in every hoiy or sacred
spot of ground, and each lodge or tent, has one or two, to which

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

the whole family seem to pay the utmost reverence. I saw in the
village of the Mandan chief, She-he-ke, in an open space before
the temple or medicine lodge, an enclosure of about six feet
square, in which were four on these heads on elevated mounds
Of earth.

I had not sufficient time to form any idea of their languages,
but from what I was able to learn there are about six primitive
ones : it is very probable that a more accurate scrutiny would
discover of those, several common to other nations of the conti¬
nent. It appeared to me that the Snake Indians, both in language
and in appearance were different from any Indians I had ever
seen. In the sound of the language there is a good deal of re¬
semblance to those of Africa which I have heard. I am inform¬
ed that copious vocabularies have been made by Lewis and
Clark, of nearly all the Indian languages of the Missouri. As
their journal is expected shortly to appear, I shall not publish
the collections made by me, which must necessarily be much
inferior to theirs, they having had more time and much greater
opportunities. A few primitive words of different nations will
suffice in this view.

OSAGE.

They call themselves Wasashe, and are divided into three
bands, 1. The Great Osage, 2. Little Osage, 3. The band of
44 Big, Track,” from a chief who left the nation some years ago
and is now settled on the Arkansas. Their language may be con¬
sidered the primitive of several others, which are spoken by
neighbouring nations, without any great difference ; as the Ar¬
kansas, Kansas, and Mahas. Their trade is principally in deer
skins, bear skins, beaver, otter, muskrat, and the Buffaloe.

These people have been noted for their uncommon stature ; this
is somewhat exaggerated,, though they are undoubtedly above
the ordinary size of men. The wandering or semi-wandering na*
&ons of Louisiana, may be characterised as exceeding in stature
the whites. The Osages are reputed warlike, but this arises from
their being at war with all their neighbours, and not from any
uncommon degree of bravery. When compared with the Sha-
wanese, and the nations east of the Mississippi, they might with
more propriety be regarded as a treacherous and cowardly race.

INDIAN NATIONS, &c. — BOOK X. 73

A purchase was made a few years ago by governor Lewis,
bf the greater part of the country claimed by these people, re¬
serving to them the privilege of hunting on it, until the exten¬
sion of the settlements should render it inconvenient. The ob¬
ject of this was to lix a certain and determinate boundary for the
exercise of the jurisdiction of the courts, and in order to do away
all question or difficulty as to the title of the United States. BUt
great dissatisfaction has been excited amongst them in conse¬
quence bf the purchase, which they alledge not to have been fair¬
ly made. In fact, this is not a matter easily effected with strict
correctness, and it is doubtful with me whether our extensive In¬
dian purchases east of the Mississippi, were conducted in the
fairest manner. A desire of doing something meritorious, may
have induced some of our agents, to go rather too far in procur¬
ing the consent bf the chiefs of the nation, and, perhaps bf
chiefs created for the express purpose. When this subject is
considered, there may be more justice in the disaffection of the
Indian nations than is generally supposed. The governments of
the Indian nations are generally republican ; the chiefs propose,
and the people approve or disapprove ; the proper solemnities
are not so easily complied with ; the consent of a few of the prin¬
cipal chiefs has generally been thought sufficient, but there are
instances of those chiefs failing into disgrace in consequence of
their unauthorised conduct. The Osage purchase was sanctioned
by the government, but nothing was done in complying with thb
stipulations of the treaty on our part for nearly two yeafs. Short¬
ly before the arrival of governor Howard, the Osages were in¬
formed that the first payment of the annuity was soon to be made
for their land. Thirty or forty chiefs came to St. Louis, soon af¬
ter the arrival of the governor, and in council, remonstrated
against the purchase* declaring it to have been unfair. The prin¬
cipal speaker, Le Sonneur, addressed him with great art, and some
eloquence. He said, that 66 he was much surprised to hear of this
purchase, which had been forgbtten by his nation, and he suppo¬
sed, had also been forgotten by his great father. The sale was
made by those who had no authority ; and his great father not
having complied with his part of the bargain, by delaying two
years the stipulated payment, and not performing the other parts

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

of the treaty, his nation ought not to be held to their part of it,
even if fairly entered into. But, said he, the Osage nation has
no right to sell its country, much less have a few chiefs, who have
taken it on themselves to do so ; our country belongs to our
posterity as well as to ourselves; it is not absolutely ours, we re¬
ceive it only for our lifetimes, and then to transmit it to our des¬
cendants. Gur great father is good and just, will he permit his
children to sell the bones of their fathers, to sell the inheritance
of their children 1 No, my father, keep your goods, and letus keep
our lands/’ This chief satisfied me of the talent for oratory
amongst these rude men. He spoke for an hour, and as com¬
pletely exhausted his subject as could have been done by the
best speaker. His speech was evidently prepared with care for
the occasion. Governor Howard replied to him with dignity and
firmness, and informed him, that the treaty must be kept ; that
their great father did not compel Indians to sell their lands, but
when they did sell, the bargain could not be broken ; that cir¬
cumstances had, rendered it impossible to pay the annuities soon¬
er, the treaty not having been approved by their great father for a
considerable time. That the annuities for two years were ready
for them, if they chose, they might accept, if not, it was of no con¬
sequence, the land would still be considered as purchased, and
their obstinacy would have no other effect than that of displeas¬
ing their great father. Finding that opposition was useless, they
finally promised to use their influence to induce their nation to
accept. These purchases have a good appearance, but I question
whether they are in reality more just than the French and Spanish
mode of encroaching on their lands, and insinuating themselves
into their country imperceptibly ; taking a piece of land as they
might happen to want it, without saying any thing about Indian
title, and keeping those people quiet by presents, more pleasing
to them than if given as the payment of a debt, for which an
equivalent had been received. I fear it is not with respect to In¬
dian purchases, that we have manifested a conduct more gener¬
ous and noble than our predecessors ; we must look for this in
the pains and expense which we have been at, in civilizing
and instructing these people, together with the uniform practice
of advising them to neutrality in our wars with white nations.

INDIAN NATIONS, Stc.—BOOK L

itnd to peace amongst themselves. The establishment of trading
houses and factories, though originating from the best intentions,
is not in reality so praise-worthy as might appear from the iirst
glance, otherwise than it affords protection to traders, and keeps
the Indians in awe.

KANSAS,

A few years ago they were the greatest scoundrels of the
Missouri, robbing traders, and ill-treating the whites, but since
about two years, in consequence of a severe defeat from the Pa-
nis, in which their greatest warriors fell, they have been hum¬
bled. They are brave, and are esteemed great warriors. They
have their villages on the Kansas river. The country which they
inhabit abounds with beaver, but they do not hunt much. They
speak the Osage language with some difference of dialect.

ottqes ( Wa-dook'to-da. )

They are the descendants of the ancient Missouris, and

speak their language, which is remarkably lofty and sonorous _ -

They are not numerous, but esteemed brave and warlike. They
reside fifteen leagues up the river Platte, and live in commu¬
nity and friendship with the Fanis.

missouris,

The remnant of one of the most numerous nations of the
Missouri, and who have given their name to the river. They
were reduced to about eighty warriors. They reside with the
Ottoes. Their village was formerly at the mouth of the Grand
river.

PANI PROPER,

A much more friendly and civilized people than those just
described ; they treat their traders and the whites generally with
remarkable hospitality, have frequent intercourse with the Span¬
iards, and live about thirty leagues from the mouth of the river
Piatte, and in two villages. The Council Bluffs on the Missouri
would be a good place for a trading establishment for these peo¬
ple. They have but faint ideas of the exclusive right of soil, and
have no fixed boundary ; in whicn, they resemble the greater part

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

of these nations. They hunt on the rivers Platte and Kansas ;
their country very little wooded, but qf a beautiful surface, con¬
sisting of open plains.

The Pani Loups, reside on the Wolf river, thirty six leagues
from its mouth. There is said to be a good deal of timbered
land between this river and the Corqe-de-Cerf, or Elk horn, prin¬
cipally pine and shrubby oak. The two rivers just mentioned, af¬
ford excellent navigation; the Wolf river rises in a lake, or ra¬
ther a large fountain.

The Pani, Republican, a small band which seceded from the
nation a few years ago, reside on the Republican fork of the
Kansas river.

MAHAS, ( or Oo-ma-ha )

Reside on the Maha creek, about eighty leagues above the
Platte, in their village, and raise corn. A friendly and industri¬
ous people, and have a considerable trade. Their language ori¬
ginally Osage. All the Sioux bands, except the Yanktons,make
war upon them. Their numbers have been much reduced with¬
in the last ten years.

FOXCAS,

Originally Maha ; village a short distance below the Qui-
Courre. They were almost destroyed by^ne Sioux, their village
broken up, and they were compelled to be altogether wandering;
but within a few years, they have re-established their village, and
are increasing rapidly.

ARIKARA

Live 1440 miles up the Missouri, in two villages, an indus¬
trious people, but from the attacks of their neighbours, are una¬
ble to hunt any other but the buffaloe, though their country
abounds in game. They are at present on veiy friendly terms
with the whites, though guilty a few years ago of an outrage on
a party commanded by lieut. Prior. In my Journal I have dwelt
a good deal on the customs and character of thesjEfc-people, which
in many respects are peculiar and highly^ interesting. They
were originally Pani,

INDIAN NATIONS, Sec. — BOOK L

MANDANS, OR GROS VENTRES,

The remnants of a number of villages, according to their
account, seventeen. They claim only the small portion of coun¬
try which they actually occupy; in this, resembling the Arikaras.
They still consist of seven villages, five of Gros Ventres, and two
of Mandans, in the distance of about fifteen miles. They are
generally on good terms with each other, but at present there
exists considerable dissentions, and even open rupture. There
is not the least affinity in their languages, but the Gros Ventre
is spoken by all the Mandans. According to the tradition of
these last, who were originally of the Crow nation, owing to a
quarrel between two chiefs, over the carcase of abuffaloe which
they had slain, a separation took place of the followers of each.

CHIENNES

Are a wandering nation, on the heads of the Chienne river.
Trade with the Arikaras — speak a different language from any
nation I know. Their complexion very fair. They trade also
with the Spaniards, and have a great number of horses, See.

Sioux TRIBES.

On an ancient map I have seen them named Naddouwessi-
aux; the Noddouwessces of Carver, are probably a band of Si¬
oux — Are nearly all wandering tribes, and may be considered as
divided into four nations, the Sioux, Teton, Assineboin and
Black-feet.

YANKTONS,

Wander in an agreeable country, a considerable portion
of which is woodland — trade on the St. Peters, and on the Mis¬
souri at the riviere a Jaque. Their trade is not valuable, chiefly
buffaloe robes and deer skins : they are the most friendly and
peaceable of the Sioux bands.

YANK-TONS OF THE NORTH.

On Red river of lake Winipec, and trade with the British
establishments.

WAII-PA-TONE.

On the N. W. side of the river St. Peters, to the mouth of the
Chippoway river.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.,

MINDA WAR-G ASTON,

The only Sioux band which attends to the cultivation of the
earth ; but this not to any great extent. They live on the Mis¬
sissippi above the river St. Peters. Their country is represent¬
ed as tolerably fertile, and well watered.

WAH-FA-COO-LA,

On the S. W. side of the river St. Peters, from a place cal¬
led Hardwood, to the Yellow Medicine river, some traffic with
the Yanktons and Tetons west of them

SESSATONE,

On the upper part of Red river and the St. Peters. This
country abounds with small lakes, and is valuable for animals,
beaver, otter, muskrat, martin, &c. They meet the Tetons, &c.
on the riviere a Jaque, about the months of May and June to trade.
They supply the Yanktons with articles of European manufac¬
ture, and receive in return, horses, &c.

TETONS, BOIS BRULE, ARKANDADA, MINI KlNIAD-ZA, SA HONE.

These are the pirates or marauders of the Missouri, their
country without timber, and not good for hunting, except as to
the buffaloe, they have therefore hardly any thing but buffaloe
robes to trade.

The Sioux bands claim as follows; « beginning at the conflu¬
ence of the riviere des Moines and the Mississippi, thence to the
river St. Peters, thence on both sides of the Mississippi to Crow
Wing river, and upwards with that stream, including the waters
of the upper part of Red river of lake Winipec, and down to
the Pemberton river ; thence a 3 W. course to intersect the
Missouri, at or near the Mandans,and with that stream, down to
the Warricon river, thence, crossing the Missouri, it goes to in¬
clude the lower part of the Chienne river, all the waters of
White river, and Teton river, including the lower portion of the
Qui Courre, and returns with that stream downward to the Mis¬
souri, thence eastward to the beginning.”

INDIAN NATIONS, &C.--BGOK I. 79

assineboin:,

Divided into the following bands—

Manelofiec , (gens de Canot,) wander on the Mouse river, be¬
tween the Assineboin and the Missouri. Osee-gah , about the
mouth of the little Missouri, to the Assineboin river.

Mah-to pa-na-to , on the Missouri, about the mouth of the
White earth river, and on the head of the Assineboin and Copelle
rivers.

These bands trade with the Hudson’s Bay Company, who
have establishments on the Assineboin and Copelle rivers; oc¬
casionally also on the Saskashawin. Their country has little
or no timber.

BLACRFEET.

They wander on the heads of the Missouri, Maria river, and
ftlong the Rocky mountains, they are also Sioux. They trade at
the same establishments with the Assineboin. and are at war with
the Crow nation. They have been very troublesome to our tra¬
ders, to whom they have conceived a deadly hatred. Their coun¬
try the most abundant in beaver and other furs.

GROS VENTRES OF THE PRAIRIE,

Speak the Crow language, and wander on the south fork of
the Saskashawin.

Nations on the Lakes , and upper part of the Missis sipfu.

CHIPPOWAYS,

Are divided into three bands, one an a village on an island
in Leech lake; another about the head of the Mississippi, and
around Red lake, and the third on Red river, of lake Winipec,
and about the mouth of Pemberton river. They wander along
the lakes, however, to a grea' distance. They are the inveterate
enemies of the Sioux ; with whom they have been at war tim0
immemorial. Their country is tolerably well covered with wood,
but abounds with morasses and lakes.

ALGONQUINS

Speak the same language with the Chippoways, and live in two
bands, one on the south side of Rainy lake, Rainy Lake river, and
the Lake of the Woods ; the other about the jmouths of the As.-
Sineboin and Red rivers.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

KNISTENOOS,

Descendants of the Chippoways — on the head of the Assiiie
boin, thence towards the Suskashawin. They might be induced
to trade at an establishment on the Missouri, at the mouth of the
Yeliow Stone river.

Indians south of the Missouri and Arkansas .

AYUTAN BANDS, OR SNAKE INDIANS,

A very numerous race, who have as yet but little intercourse
■with the whites. They are badly armed, and much at the mercy
of the other Indians, by whom they are made slaves when taken
prisoners. They are also called Camanches. They wander about
the heads of the Platte, and in the vast plains bordering on New
Mexico and New Spain, south of the Arkansas ; and are divided
into many bands. They possess an immense number of horses,
asses, and mules.

CROW INDIANS,

On the Yellow Stone, and heads of the Missouri j they are
divided into a number of small bands.

PAUNCH INDIANS

Wander along the Rocky mountains, and sometimes venture
across. Probably a band of the Snake Indians. The Padoncas ,
Kioways , &c. are probably bands of nations already enumerated $
inhabit an arid, unproductive country.

CADDOQUIS.

Thirty-five miles west of the main branch of Red river, 120
miles by land above Natchitoches, formerly lived 375 miles high¬
er up, at a beautiful prairie, which has a lake of clear water. The
nation is small, but the warriors greatly celebrated for their
courage, and as much respected by their neighbours, as the
• Knights of Malta were in Europe.

YATTASCES.

Fifty miles above Natchitoches on Bayou Pierre, there is a
small French settlement. They are but a remnant, but live in a
fixed village , ' .

INDIAN NATIONS, &c.— BOOK & 81

NAU-DO-qUES,

On the Sabine, sixty or seventy miles from the Yattasces.
The French had formerly a factory here— language Caddo.

ADDAIZE,

Forty miles from Natchitoches— below the Yattasces j lan¬
guage peculiar — extremely difficult to speak.

eyish,

Near Nacogdoches— nearly exterminated a few years ago
by the small-pox — language peculiar* but speak Cadd6.

KYIS,

On the Trinity river, near where the road to St* Antonio
crosses it. Language peculiar.

TACHEES,

On a branch of the Sabine— language Caddo— gave their
name to the province of Texas- — Nabadaches , in the same neigh«
bourhood.

beddies,

On the Trinity, about sixty miles S. of the Nacogdoches^
speak Caddo, but have a peculiar language.

accokesaus,

Two hundred miles S. W. of Nacogdoches, on the W. side
of the Colerado— speak a peculiar language— wander about the
bay of St. Bernard.

MAYES,

On the bay of St. Bernard, near the Guadaloilpe— hate the
Spaniards, and are attached to the French — have a tradition of
the landing of La Salle in this neighbourhood — speak Attakapas.

CARANKOtTAS,

On an island or Peninsula in the bay of St Bernard, 10 miles
long and 5 broad — at war with the Spaniards— a peculiar lan¬
guage.

m 'VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

CANCF.S,

A very numerous nation ; consisting of a number of tribes,,
who occupy the country from the bay of St. Bernard, across
Grand river, towards la Vera Cruz. — On bad terms with the
Spaniards — speak a peculiar language.

TANK A WAYS,

A wandering people, near the Bio Grande.

TAWAKENOES,

On the Brassos de Dios — for some months at the prairie of
the Tortuga — usual residence 200 miles west of Nacogdoches*
towards Sta. Fee — speak Pani, or 7'owiache .

FANI, OR TOWIACHE,

Eight hundred miles above Natcnitoches, 540 by land. Much
diminished six or eight years ago by the small-pox.

NATCHITOCHES,

Formerly resided where the town of Natchitoches is now sit¬
uated — Have always been friendly to the whites. They have
dwindled away to a few warriors.

BOLUXAS,

Emigrants from Pensacola— -they came with a few French
families — are not more than thirty in number. There are, be¬
sides several small bands or parties, originally from Florida, the
jififialac he s, on Bayou Rapide — dlibamas , in Oppelousas—
chatas , of the same nation with the Alibamas , emigrated to the
Sabine about fifteen years ago — Pacanasy a small tribe who live
on the Qulequeshoe river, which heads S. W. of Natchitoches.
Pascagolas , live in a small village 60 miles above Natchitoches.
Tunicasy at Avcyall, emigrants from Bayou Tunica. All these
nations speak the Mobiiian, which was formerly the court lan¬
guage amongst the Indian nations of Lower Louisiana. There
are besides, a number of small bands of Chactasy on Bayou BoeuL
on the Techej and on the Sabine.

INDIAN NATIONS, &C.-BOOK I.

OPPELOUSAS,

In the Indian language means black head, or black scull. —
They are aborigines of this district.

ATTAKAPAS,

Signifies man-eater. They at present reside with the Caran-
kouas on an island in the bay of St. Bernard. They have the
reputation of being to this day anthropophagi. A French writer,
who published a book on Louisiana in 1713, of the name of Du¬
mont, relates a fact of two white men who fell into their haiids^
one of whom was killed and eaten, the other made his escape.

TENSAS,

Emigrants from the Tensa, and Bayou Boeuf. — TVashas , for¬
merly a considerable nation, now extinct, lived near New Or¬
leans, and were the first with whom the French became ac¬
quainted.

ARKANSAS,

South of the Arkansas village, descended from the Osage.
—The Houmas and Avoyall extinct.

Indians on the Mississippi , between the Missouri and the Falls
of St. Anthony.

AY U WAS,

Descended from the Missouris, and claim the country west
of them. Have a village on the riviere des Moines, S. E. side,
but are generally wandering.

SAUKEES,

One hundred and forty leagues above St. Louis. T rade with
the merchants from Michilimackinac, and St. Louis. Live with
the Foxes, and may be considered as identified with those peo¬
ple. The country which they claim lies principally on the east
side of the Mississippi. On the west side, they claim the coun¬
try of the ancient Missouris by right of conquest, without de¬
fining any portion to the Ayuwas. To them may be ascribed the
destruction of the Piorias, Kaskaskias, Cahokias, Missouris,
and Illinois.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

Lower Louisiana? when first discovered, was inhabited by
very numerous nations; the accounts given by early writers are
almost incredible. Charlevoix states that about the year 1560,
there were many powerful nations in what was then called Flori¬
da. Qutina, Timogoa, and Saturiora, the neighbours of Mons.
Ribaut, could each command eight hundred or a thousand war¬
riors. Onothaca, and Calos, one on the eastern, the other on the
■we stern side of the Peninsula, were still more powerful. In
1565, M. Laudamere sentthirty men to assist Outina, against ano¬
ther chief, named Patanow, whom they encountered and defeat-
ed, his force consisting of two thousand men. The Baya goulas
who were situated near the mouth of the Mississippi, when vis¬
ited by M. D’Iberville, are described as having seven hundred
families in their principal town. Charlevoix gives a curious de¬
scription of their temple.

In Upper Louisiana (Ter. Missouri) there are several small
bands scattered through the settlements, and in the White river
country. Near Apple creek there are two villages of Shawanese,
a sober orderly people, and another of the same on the Mara-
mek. In the White river country, there have been of late consi¬
derable emigrations of Cherokees, who are said to claim it —
Straggling families may be seen at all seasons of the year, en¬
camped near the villages, and on the banks of the Mississippi,
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INDIAN NATIONS, &c.— BOOK L

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TABLE OF THE INDIAN NATIONS OF LOUISIANA.. ..THEIR TRADE, &c.

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VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

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INDIAN NATIONS, &c.~ BOOK I.

8.9

Before the change of government, the mode of Carrying on
the Indian traffic, like all other colonial trade, was by monopo¬
lies, in which the interest of the governor or intendant was
alone consulted. The traders obtained the exclusive privilege
of trading to a particular tribe, or upon a certain river. But
they were cramped in their enterprise by the narrow views of
the government, who established no forts for the protection of
the trade, nor would sanction the establishment of companies
capable of protecting themselves. Since the change, a more
extended theatre has been opened, both on the Mississippi and
Missouri; and enterprising individuals have ventured up those*
rivers with great prospects of advantage. The merchandise
consumed in this trade, was chiefly brought from New Orleans
or Michilimakinac. The place of rendezvous on the Mississip¬
pi, was at prairie du Chien, but there were no fixed trading esta¬
blishments. It was usual for the traders to ascend the rivers in
the autumn, remain during the winter at a spot considered most
convenient for the resort of the Indians, and return to St*
Louis on the breaking up of the ice in the spring, with the pro¬
duce of their traffic. The only permanent trading establish¬
ments on the waters of the Missouri, were those of Chateau’s,
on the Osage river. Others, wintered with the Mahas, Poncas,
and at different points on the river. A trader of the name of
L’Oiselle, had a fort on Cedar island, in the country of the Si¬
oux, nearly twelve hundred miles up. This trade could not
have been considerable ; and besides, the traders were exceed¬
ingly harassed by vagabond Indians, who frequently pillaged,
carried away in captivity, or even murdered them and their
men.

Notwithstanding the freedom of trading was open to all, on
possession being taken by the United States, it was not until
after the return of Lewis and Clark from their expedition that
any perceptible change took place. Mr. Manuel Lisa, an enter¬
prising gentleman of St. Louis, was the first to venture towards
the source of the Missouri for the purpose of trading. His own
capital not being adequate to the undertaking, lie was joined by
two or three gentlemen of St Louis. A brief account of his
expedition, as it may be considered somewhat connected with

90 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

the fur trade of Louisiana, may not be uninteresting in this
place.

He set off in the spring following the return of Lewis and
Clark. Besides his own boats there were two others in company,
which constituted a tolerable force. This trading expedition was
very different from a journey of discovery The difficulties would
necessarily be much greater. A party of men well armed and
equipped, and under proper submission to their officers, with pre¬
sents to bestow to the different tribes, and not incumbered with
goods or effects, might, with prudence, pass through with
much less difficulty. The case is different where the trader
has unruly hands to manage, who think themselves perfectly at
liberty when once out of the reach of law : without discipline,
badly armed, and coming to the nations, not for the purpose of
making presents, but of trade All these obstacles were encoun¬
tered by Lisa and the traders who accompanied him.

At the river Platte, Lisa met one of Lewis and Clark’s men,
of the name of Coulter, who had been discharged at the Mandan
villages, at his own request, that he might make a hunt before
he returned. Coulter was persuaded to return : his knowledge
of the country and nations rendered him an acquisition. Lisa passed
the country of the Sioux, without finding any of tnat nation. On his
arrival at the Ankara villages, his reception was such as to require
the exhibition of prudence and courage. Two or three hundred
warriors were drawn up, and on his approach, such as had fire
arms fired a volley before his boat, to indicate the place where he
should land. He accordingly put to shore, but instantly made it
known, that no one of them was to enter his boat: the chiefs at
the same time appointed warriors to stand guard and keep off
the crowd. The women, who always trade amongst these na¬
tions, came to the beach with bags of corn, which they offered :
anTndian rushed forward, cut open the bags with his knife,
while the women took to flight. Lisa, who was perfectly ac¬
quainted with the Indian character, knowing that the leastappear-
ance ot alarm would be dangerous, instantly called his men to
arms, pointed a couple of swivels which were fixed on his boats,
and made every preparation for defence. The Indians perceiv-
iijg this, dispersed in confusion ; and after some time, the chiefs

INDIAN NATIONS, &c. — BOOK I.

approached with pipes of peace, extended before them in their
•hands. Lisa making signs of reconciliation, they came to him,
and according to their custom, stroked him on the shoulders,
begging him not to be displeased, declaring that the Indian
who had offended him was considered a bad man. This had a
good effect, and enabled him to proceed on his voyage without
further molestation.

On his arrival at the first Mandan village, he determined to
proceed through these villages, which are situated at intervals
along the river, in the distance of about twenty miles, while his
boats continued to ascend. At this village, he held the usual
council with the chiefs, and presented them a few rolls of
tobacco, and other articles, and was permitted to continue his
journey. At the third village, his presents were rejected, and
the chief demanded some powder, which was refused : Lisa,
knew that his life was in no danger while his death could not
procure them his goods, and resisted their repeated solicitations
in a bold and firm manner ; he told them that they might kill
him, but that his property would be safe. They were finally
compelled to accept of such presents as he offered.

A few days after, having passed the Mandans, he espied the
Assineboin nation approaching, in a body of four or five thou¬
sand souls. These wandering people had learned from their
scouts, the approach of the traders. The whole prairie, to use
his expression, was red with them ; some on horseback, others on
foot, and all painted for war. His situation required the utmost
boldness and intrepidity. He charged his swivels and made directly
across to the savages, and when he had come within an hundred
yards, the match was put, while there was at the same time, a ge¬
neral discharge of small arms. This was intended to strike them
with terror ; the effect was ludicrous, they fell back, tumbled over
each other, and fled to the hills with precipitation. A few of the
warriors and chiefs only remained. The pipe of peace was pre¬
sented, and matters concluded amicably. He continued his voy¬
age to the Yellow Stone river, which he ascended about one
hundred and seventy miles, to the Big Horn river, where he
built a trading fort. He shortly after despatched Coulter, the
hunter before mentioned, to bring some of the Indian nations to

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

trade. This mail, with a pack of thirty pounds weight, his gun
and some ammunition, went upwards of five hundred miles to
the Crow nation ; gave them information, and proceeded from
thence to several other tribes. On his return, a party of In¬
dians in whose company he happened to be, was attacked,
and he was lamed by a severe wound in the leg ; notwithstand¬
ing which, he returned to the establishment, entirely alone
and without assistance, several hundred miles. Yet such instan¬
ces of intrepidity would not be regarded amongst those people,
as any way extraordinary. How should those blush, who are com
tinually whining about the little inconveniences and privations
of common life 1 Lisa remained nine months at this place. He
returned to St. Louis, having indemnified himself for his voy¬
age, by considerable benefits. But he had not chosen the proper
country, as the north side of the Missouri was much more abun¬
dant in furs, and of a more valuable quality.

After the return of Lisa, the favorable reports which he
made, induced a number of gentlemen to turn their attention to
this trade, and in a short time a company was formed under the
name of “ the Missouri Fur Company;’’ of this association Lisa
became a member, and has been one of the most active and use¬
ful. The company was composed of ten persons ; but the capi¬
tal was greatly inadequate, not exceeding forty thousand dollars.
Having collected about two hundred and fifty men, they ascend¬
ed the Missouri; left trading establishments with the Sioux, the
Arikaras, and Mandans, but the principal part proceeded to the
three forks of the Missouri, the country most abounding in bea¬
ver, for their intention was to hunt as well as trade, and the great¬
er number of the men were hunters. But they had not been
long here until they found their hopes entirely frustrated by the
hostilities of the Black-feet Indians, a numerous tribe, who had
unfortunately been rendered inimical to the Americans by an
unlucky affair, in which Lewis and Clark, on their return, had
killed two or three of their nation ; besides, probably instigated
by the jealousy of the British companies. A party of fifteen or
twenty American hunters were attacked by surprise, and nine
killed. The greatest precaution was found necessary in going
opt to hunt, they were at length so much harassed by the sava-

INDIAN NATIONS, &c.— BOOK I.

ges, as to be compelled to remain altogether at their fort, or to
venture but a short distance from it. It is supposed that in the
different rencounters with these savages, at least twenty of the
whites were killed, and nearly twice that number of the others.
Thus a most implacable enmity has been unfortunately excited?
which will for a long time, exclude our traders and hunters,
from that part of the western country by far the most favorable
for their pursuits. It is supposed that had they continued unmo¬
lested, the company would have brought down the first year,
three hundred packs of beaver alone* Instead of" which there
Were scarcely twenty. The following spring a considerable
number of the party descended the river; the remainder con¬
tinued until autumn, when, fearing a general attack, and finding
the situation otherwise exceedingly irksome, Mr. Henry, one of
the company, who now commanded the party, resolved to cross
the mountains, and winter on some of the branches of the Co¬
lumbia; this he accordingly effected, but not without suffering
every possible hardship, from hunger, cold, and fatigue. In the
mean time, the company suffered considerable loss from the ac¬
cidental burning of one of their factories; this was estimated at
fifteen thousand dollars. The establishments at the Mandans
and Arikaras, brought no profit. In the spring of the year 1811,
the third, and by the time fixed for the duration of the associa¬
tion, the last, an expedition was fitted out by the company, the
command of which was given to Lisa, whom I accompanied. By
his prudence and good management, the affairs of the company
were in some measure retrieved. After remaining sometime at
the Mandan villages, he was joined by Mr. Henry and all his par¬
ty, who brought about forty packs of beaver. Leaving trading
establishments at the Mandans, Arikaras, and with the Sioux,
he descended to St. Louis. It appeared that at the termination
of the third year, notwithstanding all these unforeseen difficulties
and misfortunes, the company had saved the capital, and had be¬
sides the establishments before mentioned. I have been inform¬
ed that the company has been renewed, an$ its capital consider¬
ably enlarged.

Such is the present situation of the Indian trade. Besides
the Missouri company, there are many individuals, who trade

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

with nations on the Mississippi, or on the Missouri, as high as the*,
Mahas, There are tew of the Indian tribes who hunt; they
have hitherto had little encouragement ; and besides, the con¬
tinual wars which prevail amongst them, renders it impractica¬
ble.

A well regulated company, with sufficient capital, would in a
very short time draw immense profits from the Indian trade of
the Mississippi and Missouri. A very great proportion of the
North West Company’s trade, would find its way down those ri¬
vers. The city of New York is highly interested; its situation
may render it the rival of Montreal in this trade ; the climate of
New Orleans is unfavourable to furs and peltries. Near the
heads of all the western rivers, tributary to the Mississippi and
Missouri, there are immense numbers of the beaver, muskrat*
otter, and other furred animals. An extensive company, well es¬
tablished. might count upon a thousand packs annually, besides a
vast number of buffaloe robes, which will be found of much use
in the slave states, as a cheap and comfortable bedding for ne¬
groes. The buffaloe would furnish other articles of trade, wool,
horns, tongues, Sec. which would also be considerable. Wolf,
bear, elk, and deer skins, might be had in immense quantities.
It requires no gift of prophecy to tell, that such a company will
not be long in forming. Should Canada, in the present struggle^
be wrested from Britain, it would be immediately established.

The establishment of factories by the United States, in the In¬
dian country, have had good effects where they are accompanied
by forts, with a small number of soldiers ; they keep those nations
in awe, and enable the traders or hunters to traverse the coun¬
try in security. The factory highest on the Missouri, is at fort
0;?age, three hundred miles from its entrance : two more might
be established advantageously on this river ; one at the Council
Bluffs, and another at the little Cedar island.

COUNTRY ON COLUMBIA.— BOOK I.

CHAPTER VI L

View of the country on the Columbia.

BUT little is yet known of this extensive section of our con¬
tinent ; it is certain, that it is on a much larger scale than the-
tract east of the AlLganies to the Atlantic, but it must be admit¬
ted . that its relative position with the rest of the world, (except as
to the East Indies) is much less advantageous. Its remoteness
from any European country or se tlement, will discourage the
establishment of colonies. Before its colonization can be effected,
the same obstacles as were encountered by nearly all the colo¬
nists in America, must be overcome, and perhaps still greater.

This tract differs from that east of the Allegany in one res¬
pect, and which is of considerable moment ; it does not open to
the ocean by fine bays, and by large navigable rivers, crossing
it parallel to each other. The cause of this difference princi¬
pally arises from a chain of mountains, which runs with the coast,
seldom receding more than sixty miles. The Columbia, and the
Multnomak, its southern branch, are both confined between this
ridge and the principal mountains, until after flowing towards
each other, the one, a thousand, and the other, nearly fifteen hun»
dred miles, they break through the ridge before mentioned, and
find their way to the sea, uniting their waters aboin sixty miles
from it. The other rivers which rise in the Rocky mountains,
instead of falling into the sea, become tributary either to the
Multnomak or the Columbia.

Next to the Mississippi* this river and its tributaries, water
a greater extent of country than any river of our continent, not
even excepting the St. Lawrence. The distance from the source
of the Columbia, to that of the Multnomak, which rises with the
Colerado of California, is not less than two thousand miles. The
Multnomak was rot (discovered by Lewis and Clark when des¬
cending the Columbia, its entrance being concealed by an is¬
land; on re-ascending the Columbia, those celebrated travellers
were astonished at the sight of a noble river little inferior to the.
principal stream.

£6

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

The lands immediately in the vicinity of the Columbia, are
represented as rich and highly susceptible of cultivation ; but the
country in general is too open, and deficient in wood. The cli¬
mate is more temperate than the same latitudes in the United
States. Near the sea, however, there prevails almost continued
fog, and drizzling showers of rain, which renders it extremely
disagreeable.

The natives on the Columbia and its branches are very nu¬
merous. Gen. Clark informed me that their numbers might be-1
safely estimated at eighty thousand souls.

The route taken by Lewis and Clark across the mountains,
was perhaps the very worst that could have been selected. Mr.
Henry, a member of the Missouri company, and his hunters, have
discovered several passes, not only very practicable, but even
in their present state, less difficult than those of the Allegany
mountains. These are considerably south of the source of
Jefferson river. It is the opinion of the gentleman last men¬
tioned, that loaded horses, or even wagons, might in its present
state, go in the course of six or eight days, from a navigable
point on the Columbia, to one on the waters of the Missouri. — *
Thus, rendering an intercourse with settlements which may be
formed on the Columbia, more easy than between those on the
heads of the Ohio, and the Atlantic states. Mr. Henry winter¬
ed in a delightful country, on a beautiful navigable stream.

An attempt is now making to form establishments on the
Columbia, with what success, is not yet much known. This has
been undertaken by a company in the city of New York, at the
head of which we find Jacob Astor. Two vessels were despatch¬
ed for the mouth of the river, we are informed, with orders to
commence an establishment. A party of about eighty men un¬
der the command of Wilson P. Hunt, and a brother of Sir Alex.
M’Kensie, who was formerly in the employment of the N. W.
company, has proceeded across the mountains. The princi¬
pal object of the company at present, seems to be the establish¬
ment of a fur trade direct with China. The valuable sea-otter,
and the fine furs which may be obtained in this country in great
^quantities, will undoubtedly produce considerable profits. Whe¬
ther the returns could be introduced into the United States a-

COUNTRY ON COLUMBIA.1 — BOOK 1.

cross the Rocky mountains, to any advantage, might be worthy
of experiment. A shortening of the distance, by more than a
thousand leagues, will certainly make it an object, to lessen the
the expense and difficulty of transporting goods across the moun¬
tains, and down the Missouri. It is Worthy of consideration, that
articles usually imported from the East Indies are not of great
bulk, or weight, that a small compass will include goods of great
value. Hence this transportation will be attended with much
less difficulty.

There can be little doubt but that the United States have the
best claim to the country watered by the Columbia, at least of
the greater part. If not as a part of Louisiana, yet by the right
of discovery, universally acknowledged by European nations,
with respect to this continent. We have besides exercised vari¬
ous acts of ownership over it, and the colony at present forming,
is under the protection and license of our government.

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BOOK II.

f IEWS OF LOUISIANA,

IN TWO BOOKS,

TERRITORY OF THE MISSOURI

CHAPTER I.

SOUND ARIES. ...EXTENT.. ..RIVERS. ...GENERAL VIEW.

Although the executive exercises authority out of the
Indian boundary/ the territory itself cannot properly be consi¬
dered as extending beyond it; the territorial governor, acts as
well in the capacity of a general agent for the United States, as
in that of civil magistrate. The judiciary has determined that it
possesses no jurisdiction over the Indian country.

The territory of the Missouri is bounded on the south by the
33° of lat. which strikes the Mississippi about one hundred and
fifty miles below the Arkansas, and constitutes the northern
boundary of the state of Louisiana. On the west, it may be con-*
sidered as bounded by the Osage purchase ;* this line runs from
a place called the Black rock, about three hundred miles up the
Missouri, due south to strike the Arkansas. On the north, a line
was agreed upon in a treaty between governor Harrispn, and the
Sacs and Foxes, which begins at a point opposite the Gascon¬
ade river, and strikes the Mississippi at the Jaufloine river* It
is unnecessary to observe, that the Mississippi bounds on the
east.

* Except cm the south of the Arkansas, where there is no western
boundary.

100 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA

This embraces an extent of country nearly three times a»
large as the state of Pennsylvania, and which contains a much
greater proportion of tillable land. The section north of the
Missouri, and the one south of the Arkansas, are each sufficient
to form a considerable state ; but the Osage Purchase, consti¬
tutes the principal body of the territory, and may be justly con-?
sidered, next to the state of Louisiana, the most valuable tract in
the great valley of the Mississippi.

A description of the principal rivers, with some account of
the portions of country watered by them, will give some view
of this tract : reserving the tract including the settlements for a
more minute description.

WHITE RIVER.

This fine river was little known until lately ; it is one of thq
most considerable in the western country, and will one day be
important. It was thought to be a stream of very inconsiderable
magnitude, until explored by capt. Many, of the U. S. army, and
rendered known from settlements made on it, and from wander*
ing hunters. It rises in the Hlack mountains, which separate the
waters of the Arkansas from those of the Missouri and Missis¬
sippi. Several qf its branches interlock with those of the Osage
river, the Maramek) and the St Francis. It is navigable, accord*
ing to the computation of several hunters with whom I have con¬
versed, about twelve hundred miles, without any considerable
Interruption ; eight hundred of these maybe made with barges,
the rest with canoes, or smaller boats. The waters of this river
are clear and limpid, the current gentle, and even in the dri¬
est season, plentifully supplied from the numerous and excel¬
lent springs which are every wh.ere found. It is not less remark*
able for the many considerable, rivers which it receives in its
course, hflack river is the largest of these ; it enters on the N.
E. side, about four hundred miles up, and is navigable nearly
five hundred miles, receiving a number of handsome rivers, as
the Current, Eleven Point, and Spring rivers. The last merits a
more particular description. It issues forth, suddenly, from an
immense spring, two hundred yards in width, affording an un¬
interrupted navigation to its mouth, contracting its width*

GENERAL VIEW. -BOOK 11.

10X

however to fifty or sixty yards. It is about fifty miles in length.*
Tms spring is full of the finest fish; bass, perch, pike, ancl others
common in the western rivers. Besides this river, White river
receives several others from one hundred and fifty to three hun¬
dred miles in length ; as Eaux Cache' , James river, Rapid John ,
and others known by various names.

The country watered by this river haa only been traversed by
Indians and hunters, and may be considered as still unexplored.
It is spoken of with rapture by those who have seen it ; it is de¬
scribed as being generally well wooded, and uncommonly abun¬
dant in springs and rivulets. The soil is said to be rich, though
there are some places hilly and broken ; some of the hills might
be more properly termed mountains. A hunter described to me
three high and remarkable hills, about eight hundred miles up
the river, standing on a plain, and perfectly unconnected with any
ridge. They are each about a quarter of a mile in length, their
form oblong ; two stand parallel and the third across ; at a dis¬
tance, giving the appearance of three walls of some immense
building. It has been called Jupiter’s Palace. Hunters agree in
declaring that on the waters of this river, a country may be cho¬
sen, at least one hundred miles square, not surpassed by the best
parts of Kentucky, and one of the best for settlements in the
western world.

ST. FRANCIS,

Discharges itself into the Mississippi seventy-five miles
above White river, and would be navigable but for rafts which
impede its course, for nine hundred miles. The western branch
rises with the waters of White river, and the eastern, which is
the principal, interlocks with jpig river, of the Maramek. It is
very erroneously laid down on the common maps ; its general
course is much further east: the principal branch in fact, rung
nearly parallel with the Mississippi in its whole length, and sel¬
dom recedes more than fifty miles. It is a beautiful and limpid
stream, passing through a charming country, but afterwards,
though increased in size, by its junction with several other ri-

* A town or village has been lately commenced at the mouth of thj£
tiver.

ite VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

Vers, it flows with a slow and lazy current. The St. Francis
communicates with a number of lakes which lie between it and
the Mississippi, formed by the streams which flow from the up¬
land country, and lose themselves in the low grounds commenc¬
ing at Cape Girardeau. This river receives several considera¬
ble streams, which rise between it and the Mississippi ; the Pe-
misco has its source near the Big prairie, eight or ten miles
N. W. of New Madrid; but generally, the St. Francis in high
water overflows its banks on that side to a great distance. A per¬
son, at such times may easily lose the channel, unless well ac¬
quainted with its course. The western bank is generally high¬
er and much less subject to inundation.

MARAMEK,

Is forty miles below the mouth of the Missouri, and heads
•with the Gasconade and the St. Francis. Passes generally
through a broken country, the flats mostly narrow. It affords
excellent navigation to its source, a distance of more than three
hundred nfiles. The source of this river is considered a curios¬
ity ; it is a small lake formed from fountains issuing immediate¬
ly around the spot. Big river, which winds through the Mine
country, is the principal branch.

THE GASCONADE,

Enters the Missouri about one hundred miles up, can he as¬
cended in small boats nearly one hundred miles, but the navi¬
gation is not good on account of shoals and rapids. It passes
through a hilly country, in which there probably exist mines.

OSAGE R.

Navigation about five hundred miles, though considerably
impeded in places by shoals. Enters the Missouri 1 33 miles
up. Principal navigable branches are Nangiro, Grand river,
the Fork, the Cooks river, Vermillion river. Country border¬
ing, generally high prairie, but the bottoms are fine and suffici¬
ently timbered for settlements. On the Nangira, about twenty
miles from its mouth, there is a curious cascade of more than
one hundred and fifty feet fall in the distance of four hundred
yards ; the water issues from a large spring and is precipitated

FACE OF THE COUNTRY, &C.—BOOK II. 103

over three different ledges of rocks, and falling to the bottom, is
collected into a beautiful basin, from whence, it flows into this
river, a considerable stream* A few miles below this place there
is a great abundance of iron ore.

CHAPTER II.

S'OIL— FACE OF THE COUNTRY, &C. FROM NEW MADRID TO
THE MISSOURI - THE FORKS OF THE MISSOURI.

ABOUT twenty miles below Cape Girardeau, and thirty-
five from the mouth of the Ohio, the limestone rock terminates
abruptly, and there commences an immense plain, stretching
with scarcely any interruption, to the Balize. There is but one
place in which the hilly country, on that side, can be seen from
the Mississippi.* It is successively traversed by the St Francis,
White river, Arkansas, Washita, and Ked river. This flat may
be considered, on an average, about thirty miles wide, and with
hardly an exception, is without a hill, or a stone The soil, is
generally rich, and has the appearance of being alluvial, though
there is a greater proportion of sand, than is usual, in the neigh¬
bourhood of the rivers. It is a common idea, but very erroneous,
that thi§ is a continued swamp, or rather low land, subject to in¬
undation. There are doubtless a great many swamps, and lakes,
interspersed with the plains ; but there are also extensive bodies
of land fit for cultivation. The swamps, and wet lands, I think,
might be drained without any great difficulty. At some future
day, this will be the Flanders of America.

It is worthy of observation, that from the Maramek, to the
piouth of the St. Francis, upwards of five hundred miles, no ri¬
ver of any consequence, empties into the Mississippi ; the con¬
siderable rivers, as the St. Francis, Black river, and Osage, fall
to the S. W. or to the Missouri. It is therefore probable, that

* A few miles below the St. Francis, the hills approach within a
quarter of a mile of the river. The S. W side of the Arkansas, the high¬
land comes within eight or ten miles of the Mississippi,

104

\*[EWS OF LOUISIANA.

•when these countries, become settled, the produce, fifty ©r sixty
miles west of the Mississippi, will be carried to market by those
channels. In the summer floods, there is an almost continued
connection, between the lakes east of the St Francis, by means
of these ; at that period, a person may go from this river, to
New Madrid.

In leaving the upland country, at Cape Girardeau, we enter
what has been called the, great swatnji : though it does not pro¬
perly possess this character. The timber is not such as is usual¬
ly found in swamps, but fine oak, ash, olive, linn, beech, and pop¬
lar of enormous growth. The soil a rich black loam. In the fall,
it is nearly dry; the road which passes through, being only mud¬
dy in particular spots: but during the season of high water, it
is extremely disagreeable crossing it. The horse sinks at every
step, to the belly in water and loose soil ; and in places entirely
covered, the traveller, but for the marks on the trees, would be
in danger of losing the road altogether. This swamp is sixty
miles in length, and four broad, widenning as it approaches the
St. Francis. In the season of high water, the Mississippi and the
river just mentioned, have a complete connection by means of
this low land.

After crossing the swamp, there commences, a ridge of high
land, running in the same course, and on the Mississippi, bound*
ing what is called Tywapety bottom: this ridge, in approaching
the St. Francis westward, subsides. In passing over it, we ap¬
pear to be in a hilly country, possessing springs and rivulets j
the soil, though generally poor and sandy, is tolerably well tim¬
bered, and not altogether unfit for tillage.

After passing this high land, we enter again the level plain.
The road crosses two lakes, one of which, forms the Bayou St.
John, at New Madrid ; the other is connected with lakes to the
'westward. They are four or five feet deep, and several hundred
yards wide, with clean sandy bottoms. These lakes are formed
'by the rivulets of the upland before described ; they rise or fall
but little. During the fall season, they are the resort of vast
numbers of wild fowl, and are full of fish.

The traveller, now enters a perfect level, alternately prairie,
and beautiful woods of tall oak, walnut, mulberry, sassafras, ho-

FACE OF THE COUNTRY, Scc.^-BOOK II.

hey locust, perfectly open, as though planted by art. Those of
the shrubby kind, are usually on tracts of ground, apart from the
groves of larger trees. They are the plum tree, catalpa, dog¬
wood, spice wood, and the different species of the sumack.— «.
The prairies, or natural meadows, are covered with grass and a
profusion of flowers. Herds of cattle, of two or three hundred,
are seen, and contribute to the pleasure of viewing these natural
meads. The Big prairie , through which the public road passes,
is a delightful spot ; it is about eight miles long, and four broad,
enclosed by woods, and interspersed with beautiful groves, re¬
sembling small islands. It is not surpassed in beauty by the ar¬
tificial meadow, improved with the greatest care. In passing
through these prairies in the spring, the traveller may stop un¬
der the shady trees, by the road side, and suffer his horse to feed,
while he feasts on strawberries of a superior size and flavor.-^.
A number of good farms are scattered round the edges of the
prairie, and a few within.

This description, may give some idea of the country to the
S. W. as far as the Arkansas. Except, that the prairies are
more extensive, the lakes and the inundations towards the Mis¬
sissippi, more considerable, and every thing on a larger scale..
But, it is extremely difficult, to give a correct notion of the to¬
pography of a country, from bare description; a well executed
map would be indispensably necessary.

The soil of the prairie, is more light and loose than in the
woods, and has a greater mixture of sand : but, when wet, it as¬
sumes every where, a deep black color, and an oily appearance.
Judging from the borders of the lakes, and the wells which have
been dug, this soil does not seem to be more than three feet
deep. But after digging through a stratum of sand, there ap¬
pears a kind of clay, of a dirty yellow, and of a saponaceous ap¬
pearance; this is the substratum of the whole country, and is
perhaps a kind of marie, the deposit of very ancient alluvia. No
stones are met with in any of these wells, that I have heard of.

The greatest objection to this country is the want of foun¬
tains and running streams. Water is procured in wells of the
depth of twenty-five or thirty feet; but the taste is not agreeable?

106

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

owing most probably to their being lined with mulberry, which- •
soon decays, and gives its taste to the water. Mr. Rawle, near-
New Madrid, has erected a mill on the lakes, on a new construe-
tion, requiring no natural fall ; the wheel runs horizontally, and
entirely under water.

On the other side of the Big prairie, as we advance to the
Mississippi, the soil appears to be stronger, and the vegetation
exceedingly luxuriant. Trees are seen of the most towering
height, thick underwood, and enormous vines, binding, as it
were, those sturdy giants, to the earth, and to each other. To
clear those forests, requires an immense labor, but the Amer¬
ican settlers, usually prefer them, from the superior quality of
the land. The creole, on the contrary, generally makes choice of
the open ground or prairie. The one, whom scarcely any con¬
sideration will persuade to remain long in the same place, choos¬
es a soil which promises to last for ever, while the other, who is
seldom induced to change, sits down on land that may wear out
in a few years.

Notwithstanding the variety of beauties, which attract the at¬
tention of the traveller, in passing through these low lands, yet
one who has been accustomed « to the pleasant vicissitude of
hill and dale,” becomes at length wearied with the sameness of
the scenery, and experiences a relief, on emerging to the high
land at Cape Girardeau. From this place, to the Missouri, the
country may be called hilly and broken, but with excellent flats,
or bottoms, on the creeks and rivulets, of a width usually pro¬
portioned to the size of the stream. The river hills of the Mis¬
sissippi, perhaps from five to ten miles out, are in many places
far from being prepossessing. They are badly watered, have many
rugged and abrupt acclivities; and considerable precipices on the
river. A strange appearance is also given by the number of fun¬
nels, or sink holes, formed by the washing of the earth into fissures
ol the limestone rock, on which the country reposes. In other
places, flint knobs present themselves, strewed with rude mas¬
ses of horn stone, and affording a s *anty nourishment to a few
straggling black jacks, or groves of pine. But it is not to be
understood that this forms the greatest proportion of the lands,

FACE OP THE COUNTRY, &C.-BQOK II. 10 7

a more minute description of particular parts will prove the
contrary. Even in these places there is abundance of line grass,
affording excellent pasturage.

For thirty miles above Cape Girardeau, (with the exception
of some places near the Mississippi) and extending back to the
St. Francis, there is a country not unlike that around the head
of the Ohio; though not quite so hilly. The timber nearly the
same, hickory, oak, ash, walnut, maple, and well supplied with
springs and rivulets.

North of Apple creek, there is a tract on the river, of very
unpromising aspect, extending to the Saline, within nine miles
of St. Genevieve. It is scarcely fit for tillage, badly watered,
with woods of a poor and straggling growth ; but to make amends
in some degree, for the sterility of the upland, there is a fine
bottom (Bois bruie) terminating just below the Saline, of twen¬
ty miles in length, and on an average three in width. In the
neighbourhood of the Saline creek the land is exceedingly bro¬
ken and hilly, though tolerably well timbered, and not altogether
unfit for cultivation. On the a Vase,* there are many fine tracts,
and extensive platts.

From St. Genevieve to the Maramek, and extending back,
the same description will apply, except that the country is more
rough and broken, but generally better watered, being travers¬
ed by la riviere Habitation, Big river, the Mineral Fork, the Pla-
tin, and the Joaehin. In some places the country is exceeding¬
ly wild and romantic. Ledges of limestone rock frequently
shew themselves on the sides of hills, forming precipices of
twenty or thirty feet high, and have much the appearance of re*
gular and artificial walls. What is somewhat singular, they are
generally near the top of the hill, which gradually slopes down
to the vale of some rivulet: a view of great extent and magni¬
ficence is presented to the eye ; rocks, woods, distant hills, and

* Apple creek--rthe Saline— and the A' Vase, are. considerable
streams, which rise, as well as Big river (a branch of the Maramek) and
some other streams, in a high ridge, about fifty miles west of the Mis¬
sissippi, which separates these waters from those of the St. Francis.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

& sloping lawn of many miles.* The whole, forming prospects,
the most romantic and picturesque.

North of the Maramek there are fewer rugged hills; the
land is waving. Towards the river, nearly to St. Louis, the
country is not well watered, it is also thinly timbered, and the soil
but indifferent. On Grave, and in the Bon Homme settlement,
between the Maramek, and the Missouri, the land is good, and
generally well adapted to cultivation. Between St. Louis and the
Missouri, with but trifling exceptions, the lands are of a supe¬
rior quality; there are some beautiful spots, as the village of Flo¬
rissant, and the environs. No description can do justice to the
beauty of this tract The Missouri bottoms, are covered with
heavy timber, and by many are preferred to those of the Missis¬
sippi or of the Ohio.

The tract of country north of the Missouri, is less hilly,
than that on the south, but there is a much greater propor¬
tion of prairie. It has a waving surface, varied by those dividing
ridges of streams, which in Kentucky, are called knobs. These
prairies, it is well known, are caused by repeated and desolating
fires, t and the soil is extremely fertile. Such woods as remain

* Near col. Hammond’s farm, there is a natural curiosity worth no¬
ticing. A hill, commanding a most extensive prospect, embracing a
scope of fifteen or tWeftty miles, and in some directions mere, is Com¬
pletely surrounded by a precipice of the sort described. It is called
Hock Fort, and might answer the purpose of fortification ; it is nearly
two hundred feet higher than any of the surrounding hill s, and on the top
there is a level space of ten acres, overgrown with trees, the soil is good. ‘
The Platin, which winds at the base of the hill, and whose meandering
course, can be traced by the sycamore and other trees peculiar to river
Bottoms, render the prospect still more agreeable. The fort is acces¬
sible only by two narrow passes up the precipice or wall, and a fine
fountain issues out from the rock.

-}• The plains of Indiana and Illinois have been mostly produced by
the same cause. They are very different from the savannas on the
sea board, and the immense plains of the Upper Missouri, In the prai¬
ries of Indiana, I have been assured, that the Woods in places Itave been
known to recede, and in others to increase. Within the recollection of
the old inhabitants. In moist places, the woods are stilFstanding, the
lire meeting here with obstruction. Trees, if planted in these prairies,
would doubtless grow. In the islands, preserved by accidental causess

FACE OF THE COUNTRY, &c.— BOOK II.

109

are fine, but the quantity of adjoining prairie is usually too great.
There are large tracts however admirably suited for settlements s
a thousand acres or more of wood land, surrounded by as much
of prairie. It is generally well Watered with fine streams, and
also interspersed with lakes. There is an extensive strip of land
along this side of the Missouri, of nearly thirty miles in width
and about one hundred and fifty in length, altogether woods, and
of excellent soil. An old gentleman who has seen Kentucky a
wilderness, informed me, that the appearance of this tract is si¬
milar, with the exception of its not being covered with cane, and
a forest so dark and heavy. The “ Forks of the Missouri,” (such
is the name given to the northern angle, formed by the two great
rivers,) daily increases in reputation, and is settling faster than
any part of the territory.

The Missouri bottoms, alternately appearing on one side or
Other of the river, are of the finest kind for three hundred miles
up, generally covered with heavy timber* the greatest part of
Which is cotton wood of enormous size. The bottoms are usually
about two miles in width, and entirely free from inundation. A-
bove this, in many places, after a small border of wood on the
hank, the rest, to the hills or bluffs, is entirely bare. The bottoms
of the Mississippi are equally extensive and rich, but not so well
wooded. They are in fact a continued succession of the most
beautiful prairies or meadows. The tract called Les Mamelles ,
from the circumstance of several mounds, bearing tire appear¬
ance of art, projecting from the bluff some distance into the plain,
may be worth describing as a specimen. It is about three miles
from St. Charles; I visited it last summer, and ascended the
mounds to have a better view. To those who have never seen
any of these prairies, it is very difficult to convey any just idea

the progress of the fire -can he 'traced ; the first burning would only
scorch the outer bark of the tree ; this Would render it more suscep¬
tible to the next, and the third would completely kill. I have seen in
places, at present completely prairie, pieces of burnt trees, proving
that the prairie had been caused by fire. The grass is usually very luxu¬
riant, which is not the case in the plains of the Missouri There may
doubtless be spots where the proportion of salts, or other bodies, may
be such, as to favor the growth of grass only.

110

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

of them Perhaps the comparison to the smooth green sea,
the best Elevated about one hundred feet above the plain, I had
a view of an immense extent. Every sense was delighted, and
every faculty awakened. After gazing for an hour 1 still con¬
tinued to experience an unsatiated delight, in contemplating the
rich and magnificent scene. To the right, the Missouri is con¬
cealed by a wood of no great width, extending to the Missis¬
sippi; the distance of ten miles. Before me, I could mark the
course of the latter river, its banks without even a fringe of wood ;
on the other side, the hills of the Illinois, faced with limestone, in
Bold masses of various hues, and the summits crowned with trees ;
pursuing these hills to the north, we see, at the distance of twen¬
ty miles, where the Illinois separates thi m, in his course to the
Mississippi. To the left, we behold the ocean of prairie, with
islets at intervals. The whole extent perfectly level, cover¬
ed with long waving grass, and at every moment changing co¬
lor, from the shadows cast by the passing clouds. In some pla¬
ces there stands a solitary tree of cotton wood or walnut, of enor¬
mous size, but, from the distance, diminished to a shrub. Fifty
thousand acres of the finest land, are under the eye at once, and
yet on all this space, there is but one little cultivated spot to be
seen!

When the eyes are gratified, with the survey, of this
beautiful scene, the mind naturally expatiates on the improve¬
ments of which it is susceptible, and creative fancy, adorns it,
with happy dwellings and richly cultivated fields. The situation
in the vicinity of these great rivers, the fertility of the soil, a gar¬
den spot, must one day yield nourishment to a multitude of be¬
ings. The bluffs are abundantly supplied with the purest water ;
those rivulets, and rills, which at present, are unable to reach
the great father of waters, and lose themselves in lakes and mar¬
shes, will be guided by the hand of man into channels fitted for
their reception, and for his pleasure and felicity.

CLIMATE Sc DISEASES.— BOOK II.

Ill

CHAPTER III.

CLIMATE - DISEASES.

WH AT is generally remarked respecting the climate of
the U. States, is particularly applicable to this territory; to wit,
variableness. In the spring and winter, during the continuance
of S. W. winds, it is agreeably warm; but by the change of the
wind to N. W. the most sudden alteration of weather is produ¬
ced. The winters of St. Louis are usually more mild than in the
same latitudes east of the Allegany mountains, but there are fre¬
quently several days in succession of greater cold than is known
even in Canada. Last January (1811) after several weeks of de¬
lightful weather, when the heat was even disagreeable, the ther¬
mometer standing at 78°, a change took place, and so sudden*
that in 4 days it fell to 10° below 0°. This winter was also re¬
markable for a circumstance, which the oldest inhabitants do not
recollect to have ever witnessed ; the Mississippi closed over
twice, whereas it most usually remains open during winter.

The settlements of this territory, have in some measure ob¬
tained the character of being unhealthy. There is no doubt, but
that, as in other parts of the western country, which have not
been properly put under cultivation, autumnal fevers will pre¬
vail. The vicinity of the lakes has not been remarked as more
unhealthy than at a distance : convenience generally induces the
settler to choose this situation. It is a prevailing notion, that to
be sick the first summer, is what every settler must expect.
This is not generally true. In some parts of the territory, the
district of New Madrid, and immediately on the Mississippi, this
seasoning is severely paid : but in other parts of the territory. I
can say with confidence, that not more than one tenth undergo
it, and that in a slight degree. From the first of August
to the last of September, is considered the most unhealthy.
Much depends upon the care which the settler takes in avoid¬
ing whatever may tend to produce sickness. The scorching
heat of the sun is universally agreed to be unfavorable to health.
Night dews and exhalations are not less so. The food of most
of the settlers, is calculated to generate bile ; great quantities of

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA,

<U2

fat pork, seldom any fresh meat, or vegetables, and large quan¬
tities of milk and coarse corn bread are used. The mephitic
exhalations from putrid vegetables, and from enormous masses
of putrifying trees, in the new clearings, also contribute to this
insalubrity. The fields of corn, with which the settler surrounds
his cabin, are thought by many, to be another cause ; the foliage
of the corn is so rich and massy, that it shades the earth, and
prevents the action of the sun from exhaling unwholesome
damps.

The last season was uncommonly unhealthy throughout the
western country, and this territory experienced it in a degree
not less than many other places. The natives, and the oldest in-
habitants, were attacked, as well as strangers. The Missouri,
which had never experienced it, did not escape. This season
did great injury to the commencing emigration to this country ;
many who had suffered, retired from it, and others who had
determined to come, changed their minds.

CHAPTER IV.

POLITICAL DIVISIONS — INHABITANTS - SETTLEMENTS — .

POPULATION.

SHORTLY after the taking possession of this territory,
it was divided by proclamation of governor Harrison, into sis
districts :

1 St. Charles, 4 Cape Girardeau?

2 St Louis, 5 New Madrid,

3 St. Genevieve, 6 Arkansas.

The territorial legislature has again subdivided these districts
yito townships. The term “ district” corresponds with the
f»unty of the states.

The inhabitants are composed of whites, Indians, metiffs, a
f£w civilized Indians, and negro slaves.

The whites, consist of the ancient inhabitants, and of those
Who have settled since the change of government. The former,

POLITICAL DIVISIONS, &C.—BOOK II. 113

&re chiefly of French origin ; there were scarcely more than
three or four Spanish families in this province, and the citizens
of the United States, although advantageous offers were held
out to them, rarely settled on this side of the river. The French
inhabitants resided in villages, and cultivated common fields ad™
jacent to them ; in the manner of many parts of Europe : it was
here, also, rendered in some degree necessary from their situ¬
ation. There were always good reasons to apprehend the attacks
of Indians ; of which, on some occasions, they had a fatal experi¬
ence. The small number of Americans settled here, is also ow¬
ing to the tide of emigration having set in for the western states.
Kentucky, Ohio and Tennessee, were yet unpeopled. Besides,
until it was transferred to the United States, there was no secu¬
rity against the depredations of Indians.

For these three last years, the settlements have been increas¬
ing rapidly. The American mode, of living on detached farms,
has been adopted by a number of the French inhabitants of vil¬
lages, and the settlements, in larger or smaller groups.

The frontier, at least below the Missouri, may be said to have
retired, sixty miles west of the Mississippi, and the settlements
on the rivers, are perfectly safe from the attacks of a Savage ene¬
my, should any be apprehended. Within the last two years, farms
have been opened, from the Missouri to the Arkansas, on thC
Mississippi; and on this river, above the Missouri, they extend,
at distant intervals, to the Praiiie du Chien.* On the Missouri,
they extend upwards of two hundred miles from the mouth of
the river. Near Fort Clark, there are a few farms, which ha VO
lately been opened.

Next to the banks of the navigable rivers, the public roads,
form the greatest inducement for making Settlements. There
are consequently establishments on nearly all the roads which
traverse the territory ; seldom at a greater distance than five or
six miles from each other.

* In case of Indian war, these remote and feeble settlements will
have to be broken up. But there is very little to be apprehended from
incursions into the more populous parts of the territory south of the
Missouri. This is as secure as the interior of Kentuckj^.

114'

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

An enumeration of the principal settlements will not be un-
interesting— I shall therefore begin with those of the district of
St. Louis. That of Bon Homme is amongst the most noted—
It is on a creek of that name, about fifteen miles from St. Louis:
at this place, the IVIaramek and Missouri come within eight miles
of each other. The land is said to be good., and there are in this
settlement some very respectable farmers. La riviere des
Peres, and a branch of it, called Grave, are also tolerably well in¬
habited ; from its vicinity to Bon Homme, it may be considered
a part of the same settlement. La rivere des Peres, is a hand¬
some stream which enters the Mississippi between St. Louis
and the Maramek. On the Missouri, from the junction to the
mouth of Bon Homme, there is a continued and excellent set¬
tlement. Immediately on the Maramek the land is broken, but
well adapted to the culture of grain : the river bottoms, I have
already observed, are of small extent, and but few farms have yet
been opened. Between the Maramek an 1 the Platen, there are
a considerable number of scattered settlers ; and in the neigh¬
bourhood of the Joachin, numerous and extensive improve-
meats.

In the district of St. Genevieve, the principal compact settle¬
ments are on Big river, whica passes through the tract of lead
mines : the largest, that of Belle Vue, is about fifty miles west
of the town of St. Genevieve. There is also a settlement on the
St. Francis, within this district, perhaps not inferior to any. In
the neighbourhood of the mines, there are usually a number of
farms. On la riviere Habitation, the 6. Vase, on the Saline, and
on Apple creek, there are a number of small settlements, and
all over the district there are scattered farms. Bois brule bot¬
tom, has also a number of good plantations.

Cape Girardeau, contains solne of the best settlements in the
territory. Burd’s is the principal; it is. a few miles from the
Mississippi, on excellent land ; the improvements extensive.—
There is also a large settlement of Germans, about thirty miles
west of the town They live well, and are becoming easy in their
circumstances: there are also a number of good farms in Ty-
wapety bottom. In general, the settlements are much scatter-*
ed in this district.

POLITICAL DIVISIONS, &c. — BOOK II. 115

In the district of St. Charles, the settlements are also consi¬
derable. They extend up the Missouri, nearly two hundred
miles. Though between the more considerable groups, the plan¬
tations are thinly scattered. Charrette, is the next village after
St. Charles, about fifty miles above ; it is composed of ten or
twelve French families, who live close together, after the ancient
custom. There are about forty families on Salt river, above this',
who live in the American mode. At the Otter island, there is a
settlement, large enough to afford a company of militia. Below
the Osage river, but within sight, on the opposite side of the
Missouri, there is a French village of about twenty families ; it
is called Cote sans Dessein. But far the best settlement on the
Missouri, is that near the Mine river, on the N. E side of the
river, and extending about six miles along the bank. There are
here about eighty families; some engaged in working salines on
the river before mentioned. Several of them have slaves. They
will be completely able to defend themselves against any Indians
that may be dreaded in this quarter. There are some good set¬
tlements on the riviere de Cuivre, near the mouth; but they are
much scattered in the forks of the Missouri. A man who was
up through that country last summer, for the purpose of look¬
ing at the land, told me, that he found five families near the heads
of the Cuivre ; sixty or seventy miles distant from any other set¬
tlement: he happened on this group when he had not the most
distant expectation of meeting with any one. In case of Indian
war, these poor stragglers will most probably be butchered, un¬
less fortunate enough to escape into the settlements.

The district of New Madrid is but thinly inhabited, consider¬
ing the great proportion of fine land, which it contains. There
are some good farms in the neighbourhood of the village. There
are also some Settlements on the St. Francis, on the banks of the
Mississippi, and through the prairies towards Cape Girardeau :
particularly on the public road. I travelled over it when it was
a wilderness ; the contrast even now, is pleasing: some one who
passes here at a future day, will find still greater cause of won-

216

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

der. Little Prairie, thirty miles below New Madrid, on the riv-?
er, is a considerable settlement.*

The settlements of the Arkansas, are principally in the neighs
bourhood of the Arkansas Post, or extend up the river, and are
the least considerable of the territory.

There are besides, a number of small groups through the
White river country ; but so scattered and remote, that it is dif¬
ficult to obtain any information respecting them. A number of
families in the course of the present year, have removed to
Spring river, and others are preparing for it. Several families
■who arrived at St. Genevieve from the District of Maine, have
actually set out for the same place. A village has been com¬
menced at the mouth of Spring river, and consists already of
a store, tavern, 8tc. There seems to prevail a rage amongst the
frontiers-men, for emigration to that quarter.

The emigrants to this territory, are chiefly from North Ca¬
rolina, and Kentucky ; of late, the western part of Pennsylvania
contributes considerably to its population. The excellence and
cheapness of the lands, besides the permission of holding slaves,
will cause this territory to be preferred by emigrants from the
southern states, to any part of the western country, unless it b&
on the lower parts of the Mississippi, whose unhealthy climate,
mdependant of the high price of lands, will counterbalance ma¬
ny other advantages,

It is perhaps good policy in our government, circumstances
considered, to thicken the frontier, and to suffer the intermedi¬
ate space to fill up gradually. But it is scarcely necessary to hold
out inducements for this purpose; it has already taken a start,
which it will be almost impossible to arrest. The uncertainty in a
great number of the land titles, particularly of the large claimants,
presents an obstacle to the torrent of emigration ; but I should
not be surprised, if in five years, this territory should contain
sixty thousand souls. f

* At present entirely under water, by the earthquake.

f A combination of the most unexpected events have contributed
in checking this emigration , the uncommon imhealthiness of the last
Season, the dread of Indian war, and the earthquake .

POLITICAL DIVISIONS, 8tc.— BOOK II. 117

The manners of the first settlers, are not such as writers
usually represent them. A principal cause of their removal to
the frontier, is the want of wild pasturage, or range , as it is call¬
ed, for their cattle; and those who have been accustomed to the
greater ease and freedom of this half shepherd life, naturally
desire a continuance. These people, advancing westward, into
the vast plains which do not admit of compact settlements, may
come still nearer to the pastoral state. The remote settlers,
contrary to what would be supposed, from their situation, are
not only shrewd and intelligent, but also far from illiterate.—-
The most trifling settlement, will contrive to have a school mas¬
ter, who can teach reading, writing, and some arithmetic. Ve¬
ry different from the good natured, but unenterprising creole,
who does not know a letter of the alphabet. A lady, who had
resided with her husband two years at fort Osage, three hun¬
dred miles up the Missouri, told me, that descending the river,
on her return from that place, she observed on the very spot,
where, on ascending she had seen a herd of deer, several chil¬
dren with books in their hands, returning from school! The
settlement had been formed, while she was at the fort.

The frontier is certainly the refuge of many worthless and
abandoned characters, but it is also the choice of many of the
nobiest souls. It seems wisely ordered, that in the part which is
weakest, where the force of laws is scarcely felt, there should be
found the greatest sum of real courage, and of disinterested vir¬
tue. Few young men who have emigrated to the frontier, are
without merit. From the firm conviction, of its future import¬
ance, generous and enterprising youth, the virtuous unfortu¬
nate, and those of moderate patrimony, repair to it, that they may
grow up with the country, and form establishments for them¬
selves and families. Hence in this territory, there are many ster¬
ling characters. Amongst others, I mention with pleasure, that
brave and adventurous North Carolinian, who makes so distin¬
guished a figure, in the history of Kentucky, the venerable col.
Boon. This respectable old man, in the eighty-fifth year of his
age, resides on Salt river, up the Missouri, at the settlement I
have before mentioned. He is surrounded by about forty fami¬
lies, who respect him as a father, and who live under a kipd of

118

VIEWS OP LOUISIANA.

patriarchal government, ruled by his advice and example. They
are not necessitous persons, who have fled for their crimes or
misfortunes, like those that gathered unto David, in the cave of
Adullam; they all live well, and possess the necessaries and
comforts of life, as they could wish. They retired through
choice. Perhaps, they acted wisely in placing themselves at a
distance from the deceit and turbulence of the World. They en¬
joy an uninterrupted quiet, and a real comfort in their little soci¬
ety, beyond the sphere of that larger society, where government
Is necessary ; where, without walls of adamant, and bands of iron,
the Anarch Fiend , or the Monster Despotism , would trample
their security, their happiness, and their dearest possessions un¬
der foot. Here they are truly free ; exempt from the vexing du¬
ties and impositions, even of the best of governments ; they are.
neither assailed by the madness of ambition, nor tortured by the
poison of party spirit. Is not this, one of the most powerful in¬
centives, which impels the wandering Anglo-American , to bury
himself in the midst of the wilderness ?

The following is an abstract of the population of the terri-
tory 3 according to the last census ;

St. Charles ....

St. Louis .

. 5,667

St. Genevieve . . .

Cape Girardeau . .

, . 3,888

New Madrid . . .

• . 3,103

Hope Fields

St. Francis C

Arkansas .

21.845

Allow for the droops at the military posts

in this territory .

. 200

Hunting and trading parties up the Mis-

souri and Mississippi

. 300

Families settled m remote places, and not

found by the sheriff

. 300

22.645

Of these, 8.01 1 are slaves ; the number of civilized Indians
and of metiffs, not known, but cannot be considerable.

TOWNS 8? VILLAGES. — BOOK II.

119

CHAPTER V,

TOWNS AND VILLAGES.

AMONGST the Americans, every assemblage of houses,
no matter of how small a number, is denominated a town ; in
this country every place except New Orleans, however consid¬
erable, or extensive, is called a village. This is right in both
cases ; the occupation of villages, is principally, the cultivation
of the soil, in the states, those who follow the plough, are scat¬
tered over the country; while the mechanics, and retailers of
merchandise, gather in a cluster. Hence the difference in the
appearance of the towns or villages of this country, from those
of the states. Although there is something like regularity of
streets, and the houses are built in front of them, they do not
adjoin, while the gardens, orchards, and stables, occupy a con¬
siderable extent of ground. Each house with its appurtenances,
has the appearance of one of our farm-yards. All kinds of cat¬
tle, cows, hogs, sheep, mingle with the passengers, in the
streets. These tenements are generally enclosed with cedar
pickets, placed in the manner of stockades, and .sometimes with
stone walls. The houses are built in a very singular form,
and it is said, copied after the fashion of the West Indies. They
do not exceed one story in height, and those of the more weal¬
thy are surrounded with spacious galleries; some only on one
or two sides, while the poorer class are obliged to put up with
naked walls, and a poor habitation. These galleries are ex¬
tremely useful ; they render the house cool and agreeable in
summer, and afford a pleasant promenade in the heat of the

day- ... . \
In building their houses, the logs, instead of being laid hori¬
zontally, as ours, are placed in a perpendicular position, the in¬
terstices closed with earth or stone, as with us. This consti¬
tutes a more durable dwelling, and it retains its shape much
longer. The roof is extremely broad, extending out with a
gradual slope, for the purpose of affording a covering to the
gallery. Within these two years, some alteration is perceptible
in the general appearance of the villages, from the introduction

120

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

of a new mode of building by the Americans of frame, stone*'
or brick, and in the use of what was before unknown, signs and
boards, to indicate the residence of persons following different
trades or occupations: although a trifling circumstance, it is a
characteristic.

In none of the villages or towns is there a market house ;
the reason I have already mentioned, the inhabitants raised their
own provisions, and were all cultivators oi the soil.

ST. LOUIS

Is the seat of government of the territory, and has always
been considered the principal town. It was formerly called Pairi
Court, from the privations of the first settlers.* It is situated in
latitude 38° 23' N. long. 89° 36' W.

This place occupies one of the best situations on the Missis¬
sippi, both as to site and geographical position. In this Lst res¬
pect, the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, has certainly
much greater natural advantages, but the ground is subject to
inundation, and St. Louis has taken a start, which it will most
probably retain. It is perhaps not saying too much, that it bids
fair to be second to New Orleans in importance, on this river.

The ground on which St. Louis stands is not much higher
than the ordinary banks, but the floods are repelled by a boid
shore of limestone rocks. The town is built between the river
and a second bank, three streets running parallel with the riv¬
er, and a number of others crossing these at right angles. It is to
be lamented that no space has been left between the town and the
river; for the sake of the pleasure of the promenade, as well as for
business and health, there should have been no encroachment on
the margin of the noble stream. The principal place of business
ought to have been on the bank. From the opposite side, no¬
thing is visible of the busy bustle of a populous town ; it appears
closed up. The site of St. Louis is not unlike that of Cincinnati.
How different would have been its appearance, if built in the

* Judging from many of the names of villages, one might suppose
that they had not been settled under the most happy auspices; there are
iMibere, Creve-^aeur, and Vuide poche f

towns & Villages. — book it.

*&me elegant manner: its bosom opened to the breezes of the
river, the stream gladdened by the enlivening scene of business
and pleasure, compact rows of elegant and tasteful dwellings*
looking with pride on the broad wave that passes !

From the opposite bank, St. Louis, notwithstanding, appears
to great advantage. In a disjoined and scattered manner it ex¬
tends along the river a mile and an half, and we form the idea of
a large and elegant town. Two or three large and costly build¬
ings (though not in the modern taste) contribute in producing
this effect. On closer examination, the town seems to be com¬
posed of an equal proportion of stone walls, houses, and fruit
trees : but the illusion still continues.

On ascending the second bank, which is about forty feet above
the lhvel of the plain, we have the town below us, and a view of
the Mississippi in each direction, and of the fine country through
which it passes. When the curtain of wood which conceals the
American bottom shall have been withdrawn, or a vista formed
by opening farms to the river, there will be a delightful pros¬
pect into that rich and elegant tract. The bottom at this place
is not less than eight miles wide, and finely diversified with prai¬
rie and woodland.

There is a line of works on this second bank, erected for de¬
fence against the Indians, consisting of several circular towersj
twenty feet in diameter, and fifteen in height, a small stockaded
fort, and a stone breast work. These are at present entirely un¬
occupied and waste, excepting the fort, in one of the buildings of
which, the courts are held, while another is used as a prison. — =>.
Some distance from the termination of this line, up the river,,
there are a number of Indian mounds, and remains of antiquity;
which, while they are ornamental to the town, prove, that in for¬
mer times, those places had also bpen chosen as the site, per¬
haps, of a populous city.

Looking to the west, a most charming country spreads itself
before us. It is neither very level nor hilly, but of an agreeable
waving surface, and rising for several miles with an ascent al¬
most imperceptible. Except a small belt to the north, there
are no trees ; the rest is covered with shrubby oak, intermixed

VIET^S OF LOUISIANA.

M-

\Vith hazels, and a few trifling thickets, of thorn, crab apple, or
plum trees. At the first glance we are reminded of the environs
of a great city ; but there are no country seats, or even plain
farm houses : it is a vast waste, yet by no means a barren soil.— «
Such is the appearance, until turning to the left, the eye again
catches the Mississippi. A number of fine springs take their
rise here, and contribute to the unaven appearance. The great¬
er part fall to the S. W. and aid in forming a beautiful rivulet,
which a short distance below the town gives itself to the riv¬
er. I have been often delighted in my solitary walks, to trace
this rivulet to its sources. Three miles from town, but within
view, amongst a few tall oaks, it rises in four or five silver foun¬
tains, within short distances of each other : presenting a picture
to the fancy of the poet, or the pencil of the painter. I have fan¬
cied myself for a moment on classic ground, and beheld the
Naiads pouring the stream from their urns.

Close to the town, there is a fine mill erected by Mr. Cho-
teau, on this streamlet; the dam forms a beautiful sheet of water,
and affords much amusement in fishing and fowling, to the peo¬
ple of the town.

The common field of St. Louis vras formerly enclosed on
this bank, consisting of several thousand acres; at present there
^ are not more than two hundred under cultivation ;* the rest of
the ground looks like the worn common, in the neighbourhood
of a large town ; the grass kept down and short, and the loose
soil in several places cut open into gaping ravines.

St. Louis was first established in the spring of 1764. It wTas
principally settled by the inhabitants who abandoned the village
of Fort Chartres, on the east side of the Mississippi. The colo¬
ny flourished, and became the parent of a number of little vil¬
lages on the Mississippi and Missouri; Carondelet, St. Charles,
Portage des Sioux, St Johns, Bon Homme, St Ferdinand, &c.

From that abominable practice, of urging the northern Indi¬
ans against the settlers, this place suffered an attack which still
excites bitter recollections. In 1779, a combination of the In¬
dian tribes, prompted by the English, attempted a general inva*

* From the American mode of farming having been adopted.

TOWNS Sc VILLAGES. — BOOK If.

sjpn of the French villages on both sides of the river, and accord¬
ingly descended in considerable force, but were checked by
gen. Clark, who commanded the American troops on the other
side. An attack was, however, made upon a small settlement,
commenced within a few miles of the town, and the inhabitants
were nearly all butchered: others, who happened to be out of St.
Louis, were killed or pursued within a short distance of the
town. It is said that upwards of eighty persons fell victims to
their fury. Happily, this will be the last time that St. Louis will
ever have any thing to dread from the Indians ; the frontier has
extended so far north and west, that a complete barrier is form¬
ed against future incursions. They may come here in peace,
and for the purpose of trade, but it will be far hence that they
■yvill dare to raise the tomahawk.

St. Louis contains according to the last census 1,400 inhabi¬
tants. One fifth Americans, and about 400 people of color.
There are a few Indians and me tiffs, in the capacity qf servants,
or wives to boatmen. This town was at no time so agricultural
as the other villages ; being a place of some trade, the chief tow#
of the province, and the residence of a number of mechanics,
It remained nearly stationary for two or three years after .he
session; but it is now beginning to take a start, apd its re¬
putation is growing abroad. Every house is crowded, rents are
high, and it is exceedingly difficult to procure a tenement on any
terms. Six or seven houses were built in tfie course of last sea¬
son, and probably twice the number will be built the next. There
is a printing office, and twelve mercantile stores. The value of
imports to this place in the course of the year, may be estimat¬
ed at two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. The outfits for
the different trading establishments, on the Mississippi or Mis¬
souri, are made here. The lead of the Sac mines is brought to
this place; the troops at Belle Fontaine put sixty thousand dol¬
lars in circulation annually. The settlers in the vicinity on
both sides of the river, repair to this place as the best market
for their produce, and to supply themselves with .such articles
as they may need. ”%

The price of marketing does net differ much from the towns
of the western country ; every thing appears to be approximate

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA,

ing to the same standard. Game of all kinds is brought in by
the neighbouring Indians, or the poorer inhabitants, and sold for
a mere trifle ; as venison, turkeys, geese, ducks, swans, prairie,
liens, See. Upon the whole, provisions are no higher than in the
towns of the Ohio.

The manners of the inhabitants are not different from those
in other villages; we distinctly see the character of the ancient
inhabitants, and of the new residents, and a compound of both.
St. Jhouis, however, was always a place of more refinement and
fashion, it i§ the residence of many genteel families, both French
and American.

A few American mechanics, who have settled here, within a
short time, are great acquisitions to the place ; and there is still
ample room for workmen of all kinds. There is a French school
and an English one,

St. Louis, will probably become one of those great reservoirs
of the valley between the Rocky mountains and the Alleghany,
from whence merchandise will be distributed to an extensive-
country. It unites the advantages of the three noble rivers, Mis¬
sissippi, Illinois and Missouri. When their banks shall become
the residence of millions, when flourishing towns shall arise, can
we suppose that every vender of merchandise, will look to New
Orleans for a supply, or to the Atlantic cities ? There must be
a place of distribution, somewhere between the mouth of the
Ohio and the Missouri. Besides a trade to the northern parts of
New Spain will be opened, and a direct communication to the
East Indies, by way of the Missouri, may be more than dreamt;
in this, St. Louis will become the Memphis of the American
Nile,

ST. GENEVIEVE,

Is next in consequence to St. Louis. It is at present the prin¬
cipal deposit of the lead, of Mine la ^lotte, the Mine a Burton,
New Diggings, the mines on Big river, with several others; and
is the store-house, from whence those engaged in working the
mines are supplied with a variety of articles. This town was
commenced about the year 1774.

It is situated about one mile from the Mississippi, between
die two branches of a stream called Gabpurie, on a flat of about

.TOWNS & VILLAGES. —BOOK II.

125

one hundred acres, and something higher than the river bottom.
There is a second bank about twenty feet higher than this, up¬
on which the town begins at present to extend ; this is merely a
slip, however, and bounded by a third bank, eighty feet above the
level of the river: there are also scattered houses for some dis-
tance up each branch of the Gabourie. West of the town, and also
north of the Gabourie, the country is high and somewhat broken.
The soil is a yellow clay in places strewed with horn stone, but
produces good wheat. The timber, has been nearly all destroy¬
ed for the use of the inhabitants. In front of the town, on the
Mississippi, there is a fine bottom, commencing from the Ga¬
bourie, and extending eight or nine miles down the river; and
for the greater part of that distance, three miles in width. The
common field under fence, contains seven thousand acres.—*.
There are six stores, and in the course of the present year, the
imports might amount to one hundred and fifty thousand dollars.
St. Genevieve is a rising town ; a greater number of buildings
have been erected here than at St. Louis, and preparations arc
making for building a number more in the course of the next
season. There are two brick yards. A very handsome edifice
has been erected of limestone, on the hill, commanding an ele¬
gant prospect of the river, the American bottom, and of the hills
on the other side of the Kaskaskia. This building is intended
as an academy, but unfortunately, those gentlemen who gener¬
ously undertook this work, have not been able fully to succeed,
from the want of proper support.

The population of St. Genevieve including New Bourbon,
amounts to 1,400. There is about the same proportion of slaves,
as at St. Louis; the number of Americans is also about the same.
There was formerly a village of Piorias below the town, but
they abandoned it some time ago.

This appears also to have been one of those spots pitched up¬
on by former and numerous nations of Indians as a place of resi¬
dence. In the bottom there are a number of large mounds.—
Barrows, and places of interment, are every where to be seen.

The mouth of the Gabourie is about one mile and an half
aboye the town; it is the landing place and harbor of boats; afid

VIEWS OP LOUISIANA,

when the water is high, they can come up to the town, of eve,r|
&ize.

In the neighbourhood, there are several remarkable foun-
tains, which send forth copious streams of water. One about a
mile distant, affords a considerable accession to the Gabourie^
and turns a mill a short distance below. The fountain itself, is
truly beautiful ; after wandering for some time over arid and,
dry hills, we come all at once into a thick grove of oak, hickory
and other trees, and descending a declivity, we discover the foun¬
tain, fifteen or twenty feet square, and as many in depth, enclose
ed on all sides, except the one from whence the stream issues, by*
masses of living rock, and its glassy surface, shaded with young;
trees and shrubs. Various beautiful creeping vines, with their
‘flowers, soften the severity of the frowning rock, and sport in
festoons woven by the fantastic hand of nature. I recollect a
trifling incident, which occurred in one of my visits to this foun¬
tain, but which made an impression on my mind. I found a par-,
ty of about sixty Shawanese warriors encamped near it ; after
some coversation with the chief, a good old man, and of a re.-,
markable fine figure; why said he, does not some white man
build a bouse and settle himself near this place ? but, continued
the old chief, seemingly recollecting himself, perhaps some
Manitou (spirit) resides here, and will not permit it ! How sim-.
ilar is the action of the human mind in all countries, and in all
ages. It seems to be a natural sentiment to attribute to whatev¬
er is extraordinary, the agency or control of some superior be¬
ing. The ancient Greeks and Romans, in their highest stage of
refinement, carried it so far, as to have divinities for every foun¬
tain and river.

St. Genevieve was formerly built immediately on the Missis?
sippi, but the washing away of the bank, and the great flood of
1782 ( Marine* des eaux ) caused the inhabitants to choose a high¬
er situation. The ruins of the old town may be still seen, and
there are several orchards of fine fruit yet remaining.

The principal employment of the inhabitants is agriculture;
but the greater part, are. also more or less engaged in the lead
mines. This is a career of industry open to all, and the young,
in netting out to do something for themseivus, usually |$ake

towns & Villages.— book m

3J#

their first essay in this business. A number of the inhabitants
are also employed as boatmen, for the purpose of conducting
voyages. There is some Indian trade, from the neighbouring
Shawanese, Piorias, and Delawares. There are but few mecha¬
nics, and these but indifferent. A chapel is erected here, at which
the Rev. Mr. Maxwell officiates.

As the agriculture of St. Genevieve, is carried on more ex¬
tensively, than in any of the other villages, 1 shall take this op¬
portunity of giving a description of it. One fence encloses the
whole village field, and this is kept up at the common expense.
The river side is left open, the steepness of the bank rendering
any enclosure unnecessary. This field is divided into a number
of small lots, of an equal size ; a certain number of arpents in
front, and a certain number in depth. The more wealthy pos¬
sess and cultivate several of these lots, while some of the poorer
class do not own one entire. But nearly all the inhabitants have
a share in them; they were ceded by the Spanish govern¬
ment, as an appendage to the possession of every resident-
er in the village. This mode has been practised from the earli¬
est settlements on both sides of the Mississippi, and perhaps
Bad its origin from necessary precaution against the Indians.
Their agricultural labors commence in the month of April,
when the inhabitants, with their slaves, are seen going and re¬
turning, each morning and evening, for eight or ten days, with
their ploughs, carts, horses, &c. The ground is broken up with
a kind of wheel plough, which enters deep into the soil. Corn,
pumpkins, and spring wheat, compose the usual crop. It is now-
left entirely to nature, and no further attention is paid to it until
harvest, when each villager, but without that mirth and jollity,
which usually takes place on such occasions, in other countries,
quietly hauls in his own crop. There is a great contrast be¬
tween the lots cultivated by the Americans, and those of the
creoles ; pains are taken to keep them clear of weeds, and this
is rewarded by a crop of at least one third greater. In the
rich alluvia, it is thought, that wheat sowed in the spring is
best ; it does not grow so rank, and is less apt to lodge or miL
dew. There is a kind of weed here resembling hemp, having a
hoarse, vigorous stalk, and a strong but not disagreeable sjnell ;

128

VIEWS OP LOUISIANA,

this* the inhabitants cut during summer, to feed their horfees. Xt.
grows in the rich bottoms, and in great abundance through the
common fields; cattle are extremely fond of it. After the har¬
vest is completed, the barriers of the fields are opened, and all
the cattle of the village permitted to be turned in. Horses put
into the field before this period, (for each one has generally a
part of his lot in grass) are tied to long ropes, which are fasten¬
ed to stakes.

Besides the lots, in the great field, the principal inhabitants?
have of late years, opened plantations, within some miles of the
town ; and the (greater part of the stock formerly seen about this
place, has been removed to the country farms: in consequence
of which, the passengers are enabled to go through the streets
without danger of being jostled by horses, cows, hogs, and oxen?
which formerly crowded them.

ST. CHARLES,

As well as the two places before described, is the seat of
justice of the district bearing its name. It contains three hun¬
dred inhabitants, a considerable proportion of them Americans.
There are two or three stores, which, besides supplying the
country people of the neighbourhood, have some trade with In¬
dian or white hunters, in furs and peltries. But this is in a
great measure, the residence of that class of French inhabitants,
whose occupation is that of engagees , or boatmen. Several gen¬
teel families also reside here.

The village is situated on the north side of the Missouri,
twenty miles from the junction. It is built on a very narrow
space, between the river and the bluff, admitting but one street
a mile in length. A short distance below, the bottom becomes
wide; the hills behind the village are extremely rough, and
scarcely susceptible of tillage. The Missouri is yearly washing
away the ground on which this place stands. The common field
situated two miles lower down.

tOfaXS k VILLAGES .^6bK tt

h'E.'W MADRID,*

The seat of justice of the district* and formerly called, VJnse
a! la gr esse. It is situated ih 86° 34 N. long. 89° 20 W . Though
in a low state of improvement at present, it ought to become im*
portant. It will be the storehouse of the produce of ail extent
sive and fertile country ; and from the St. Francis ahd the lakes
Which lie S. W. it may derive important advantages. New Ma¬
drid was laid out twenty-four years ago, by col. Geo. Morgan*
on an extensive scale, and an elegant plan. It was chosen as one
of the best situations bn the river. The town contains four hun*
dred inhabitants, one third Americans, living in a scattered way,
over a great space of ground. It is the residence of several ami¬
able and genteel families, from whom, I acknowledge with plea¬
sure, to have received much kindness and hospitality. There
is, however, a due proportion of the worthless and despicable
part of society.

At New Madrid, the Mississippi has assumed the shape of
a half moon, in the hollow of which, the town stands. The bank
is high, but the washing away has been astonishingly great, at
least three hundred yards have disappeared. Three forts, and a
number of large and spacious streets have been taken away,
within these fifteen years. From the course which the river hm
now assumed, it is probable that this will cease, and such is the
character of this wonderful stream, that in a few years, New
Madrid may be left far from its bank*

* it tnlght appear useless to insert this description ; the town hav¬
ing been nearly destroyed by the earthquakef » but it may be ciirioiia to
record what it once was.

f We are informed that the shocks at this place have entirely ceas¬
ed, and that this town, which had been almost depopulated, is again be¬
ginning to be re-established. Where the town stood, the ground has
sunk so much, that in the last flood it was entirely overflowed ; but, a
short distance below, the ground which was before low, is now at least
five feet above the highest water. Several lakes are now cornfields.—
There are hopes that this beautiful district will soon regain its former
advantages.

10 . VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

At the upper end of the town there is a considerable stream,
of which I have already spoken, and might, at most seasons, be
navigated to its source; at New Madrid it is called the Bayou
St. John, and affords an excellent harbor. Below the town there
is a beautiful lake, six or eight feet deep, with a clear sandy
bottom, and communicating with the St. Francis, and the Mis¬
sissippi, in high water. On the bank of this lake, about four;
miles from New Madrid, there is one of the largest Indian
mounds in the western country : as near as I could compute, it
is twelve hundred feet in circumference, and about forty in height,
level on the top, and surrounded with a ditch five feet deep and
ten wide. In this neighbourhood there are traces of a great po¬
pulation.

The country in the vicinity of New Madrid, is a vast plain
of the richest soil, handsomely diversified with prairie and wood¬
land. There is not much business done at this place ; two or
three mercantile stores are established, but not extensively ; yet
I should think this, a situation extremely eligible for a person of
enterprise.

New Madrid is considered healthy, and from my own expe¬
rience, l am convinced of the justice of this character. There
is nothing more delightful than a promenade in a summer
evening, on the smooth green along the bank. The climate is
mild and agreeable ; in the hottest days of summer, a cool and
refreshing breeze is felt from the river. The spring is compa¬
ratively early. I ate strawberries here the twentieth of April,
and at St. Louis in June. New Madrid deserves to be noted
for having the first gardens in the territory.

ARKANSAS.

This place is situated sixty miles up the river, and contains
four hundred and fifty inhabitants; it has a few stores, and
seems to be improving. There is a considerable trade with the-
Osages up the Arkansas, and witii the Indians, who live in the-
White river country. This is also a French establishment, and
with about the same proportion of Americans as in the other
towns.

TOWNS & VILLAGES. — BOOK II.

CATE GIRARDEAU,

The seat of justice for the district of that name, and situated
thirty-five miles above the mouth of the Ohio This town is en¬
tirely American, and built in their fashion. It is thriving fast:
there are a number of good houses, several of them of brick.
It contains about thirty dwellings, and three hundred inha¬
bitants.

The town is situated on a high bluff, but the descent to the
river is not difficult From its situation, and the excellence of
the surrounding country, this town bid* fair to become a flour¬
ishing place. Two stores are established here, though on a
small scale. I have the pleasure of being acquainted with seve¬
ral amiable families.

HERCULANEUM,

On the Mississippi, half way between St. Louis, and St. Ge¬
nevieve.

The situation of this place is extremely romantic ; at the
mouth of the Joachin, and on a flat of no great width, between
the river hill and second bank, while at each end, perpendicular
precipices, two hundred feet high, rise almost from the water’s
edge. It appears to be an opening for the admission of the Jo¬
achin to the Mississippi. On the top of each of these cliffs,
shot towers have been established. The town contains twenty
houses, and two hundred inhabitants ; here is a store, an excel¬
lent blacksmith, and a hatter. The country behind the town is
hilly, but well timbered, and land good. Several fine mills have
been erected in the neighbourhood of this place, and boat build¬
ing is carried on here.

Carondelet, or Vuidepoclie, is situated six miles below St.
Louis — 218 inhabitants. Florissant on the Missouri, 270. Mine
La Motte, 250 — and a number of other small villages. A village
has lately been commenced at the mouth of the St, Francis!

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA-

132

CHAPTER VI.

HISTORICAL CHARACTER OF THE ANCIENT INHABITANTS-—
CHANGE OF GOVERNMENT.

THERE is scarcely any thing more difficult, and consequent¬
ly more rare, than correct delineation of character This task
is usually undertaken by friends or enemies, and the result is
cither panegyrick or satire.-— Even amongst such as are unbi¬
assed, how few the happy copyists, who can paint nature with
her own colors, so as tp be repognized by every beholder !

(Conscious of this difficulty, I entertain hpmble hopes of sue*
cess? in being able to satisfy the expectation and inquiries of the
intelligent reader. And, particularly where there are no strike
ing and prominent features, bqt the traits of an infant colony de¬
licately marked.

A colony will not remain long separated from the parent
stock, untif it exhibits a peculiar and distinct character. Climate,
situation, and country, although not exclusively the agents in
forming this character, must nevertheless, be admitted to have
great influence. Nqr do the manners of the parent country con¬
tinue invariable j other tjines, other men, other circumstances,
produce the most surprising changes, while the coiony, beyond
the sphere of their influence, retains its pristine customs and
manners. The Spaniards of Mexico, are said to bear a stronger
resemblance to their ancestors of the fifteenth century, than to
their present brethren of Old Spain: — The French inhabitants of
the Mississippi, have little resemblance to the gay, and perhaps
frivolous, Frenchmen of Louis the fifteenth and sixteenth, and
still less^to those who have felt the racking storm of the revo¬
lution.

To thp country on both sides of the Mississippi, the general
name, Les Jllinoiop , was giyen. It was inhabited by a powerful
Indian nation of that name, at present reduced to a handful of
miserable creatures. After the discovery of the Mississippi, by
Mons. Joliet and the priest Marquette, from Canada, a num¬
ber of Canadian traders, about the year 1680. settled in Kas-
kaskia, a large Indian town. By degrees, a number of families
were induced to quit Canada, for a country represented as much

ANCIENT INHABITANTS, &c— BOOK II.

snore desirable. A monastery of Jesuits was established here,
which succeeded in converting a number of the Indians to
Christianity. I am credibly informed, that they had at one time,
live hundred catechumens. In time, these people, as it has ever
been the case, were found to degenerate and diminish, from
their intercourse with the whites : and the French were left the
possessors and proprietors of their village.

About the beginning of the last century, the celebrated
scheme of Law, and Comfiani /, was set on foot, and supported
,by the high reputation for wealth and fertility, which Louisiana
had already required. To further this delusion, it was represent¬
ed in still more glowing colors, and it became the paradise of
Frenchmen. The Illinois was regarded as of immense impor¬
tance ; the attention of the nation was turned towards it, and not¬
withstanding the failure of Law’s project, this remote colony
flourished surprisingly. Besides Kaskaskia, which became a
considerable place, there were several large villages, a lucra¬
tive fur trade was carried on, and an extensive agriculture.—
These settlements sent to New Orleans in one year, (1746)
eight hundred thousand weight of flour. But, at this time there
was not one permanent establishment on the west side of the
Mississippi, although resorted to by traders, and the lead mines
were known and worked. Twenty-five or thirty years after the
failure of Law, the French, with something more substantial in
view, had formed the plan of securing the great valley of the
Mississippi, and of connecting it with Canada ; immense sums
of money were expended. Fort Chartres, which is said to have
cost the crown, nine millions of livres, was built, and the village
of Fort Chartres rose by its side ; but alas ! such are the reverses
of fortune, even in this newly peopled region, the gay and
sprightly village has disappeared forever, and the fort is but a
nobie ruin. This fort was deemed an important one, at which
there was stationed an officer of rank, with a suitable command.
Much of the elegance and refinement of the officers was com¬
municated to the susceptible inhabitants.

The war between France and England, which broke out
about the year 1754, deprived France of her possessions in this
part of the world. In consequence of this, les Illinoix expert-

,134

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

enced a sudden and rapid decay ; which was again accelerated
by the conquest of general Clark for the United States, in
1779. The greater number of the wealthy and respectable
inhabitants descended the Mississippi, and settled in New Or¬
leans, and the lower country Others crossed the Mississippi,
and established St. Louis and St. Genevieve. Scarcely any but
natives of the country remained. The foreigners chiefly re¬
turned to the countries from whence they first emigrated.

Such then, is the origin of the greater part of that class of the
population of this territory, which I have denominated the an¬
cient inhabitants. They are chiefly natives of the country ; but
few families are immediately from France, or even from New
Orleans or Canada.

In the character of these people, it must be remembered, that
they are essentially Frenchmen ; but, without that restlessness,
impatience and fire, which distinguishes the European. There
is, even in their deportment, something of the gravity of the
Spaniard, though gay, and fond of amusements. From the gen¬
tle and easy life which they led, their manners, and even lan¬
guage, have assumed a certain degree of softness and mildness :
the word } laisible , expresses this characteristic. In this remote
country, there were few objects to urge to enterprise, and few
occasions to call forth and exercise their energies. The neces¬
saries of life were easily procured, and beggary was unknown.
Hospitality was exercised as in the first ages, for there were no
taverns. Ambition soared far hence, for here there was no prey.
Judges, codes of law, and prisons, were of little use, where such
simplicity of manners prevailed, and where every one knew how
far to confide in his neighbour. In such a state of things, to what
end is learning or science? The schools afforded but slender
instruction ; the better sort of people acquired in them reading,
writing, and a little arithmetic. The number of those who were
lovers of knowledge, and made it a profession, was small. From
the habits of these people, it would naturally be expected, that
they would have been unaccustomed to reason on political sub¬
jects; they were in fact, as ignorant of them, as children are
of life and manners. These inhabitants were as remarkable for
their tame and peaceable disposition, as the natives of France are
for the reverse-.

ANCIENT INHABITANTS, 3cc,— BOOK IE X&

Amongst their virtues, we may enumerate honesty and punc¬
tuality in their dealings, hospitality to strangers, friendship and
affection amongst relatives and neighbours. Instances of aban¬
donment on the female side, or of seduction, are extremely rare.
The women make faithful and affectionate wives, but will not be
considered secondary personages in the matrimonial association.
The advice of the wife is taken on all important, as well as on
less weighty concerns, and she generally decides. In opposi¬
tion to these virtues, it must be said, that they are devoid of
public spirit, of enterprise or ingenuity, and are indolent and
uninformed.

They are catholics, but, very far from being bigoted or su¬
perstitious, as some travellers have said. They were perhaps'
more strict observers, formerly, of the rules and discipline
of their church, and of the different holy days in the calendar.
Their fetes , or celebration of these days, were considered, as.
the most interesting occasions ; the old and young engaged in
them with the greatest delight, and they doubtless contribut¬
ed to their happiness. Of late, this attention to the ceremonies
of their religion is considerably relaxed, since other objects of
pursuit and interest have been opened to their view. The ca¬
tholic worship is the only one yet known in the territory, except:
in private families, and in a few instances of itinerant preachers. .

There was scarcely any distinction of classes in the society.*
The wealthy or more intelligent, would of course be considered'
as more important personages, but there was no difference clear-1,
ly marked. They all associated, dressed alike, and frequented
the same ball room. They were in fact nearly all connected by
the ties of affinity or consanguinity : and so extensive is it, that
I have seen the carnival, from the death of a common relation,
pass by cheerless and unheeded. The number of persons ex¬
cluded was exceedingly small What an inducement to com¬
port ones self with propriety and circumspection ! The same in¬
terest at stake, the same sentiments that in other countries in¬
fluence the first classes of society, were here felt by all its mem-5
bers. Perhaps as many from unmerited praise have been form¬
ed into valuable characters, as others from having been unjust-
Ty despised have become truly despicable.

VIEWS OP LOUISIANA.

Their wealth consisted principally in personal property, lands
were only valuable when improved. Slaves were regarded in
the light of bien fonder, or real property, and in fact, as the high¬
est species. Lead and peltry were frequently used as the cir*
cu luting medium.

There was but little variety in their employments. The most
enterprising and wealthy were traders, and had at the same time
trifling assortments of merchandise for the accommodation of
the inhabitants, but there were no open shops or stores, as in the
United States. There were no tailors or shoemakers; such as
pursue these occupations at present, are from the United States,
The few mechanics, exercising their trades, principally carpen¬
ters and smiths, scarcely deserved the name. The lead mines,
I have already observed, engaged a considerable number. The
government gave employment to but few, and those principally
at St. Louis. By far the greater proportion of the population
was engaged in agriculture ; in fact, it was the business of all,
since the surplus produce of the country was too inconsiderable
to be depended upon. A number of the young men for some
time, embraced the employment of boatmen, which was by no
means considered degrading; on the contrary, it Was desira¬
ble for a young man to have it to say, that he had made a voy¬
age in this capacity : and they appeared proud of the occupa¬
tion, in which they certainly are not surpassed by any people in
dexterity. It is highly pleasing to see them exerting them-'
selves, and giving encouragement to each other, by their cheer¬
ing songs—

— ■ adductis spumant freta versa lacertis.

Infindunt pariter sulcos ; totumque dehiscit
Convulsum remis, rostrisque tridentibus aequor.

But this occupation, amongst many other changes, has been
Seduced to the same footing as with the Americans. Arising
probably from the simple cause, of there having arisen objects
more generous emulation.

What is somewhat strange, there were no domestic manu-
iketures among them ; the spinning wheel and the loom were
alike Unknown. So deficient were they in this respect, that al-

ANCIENT INHABITANTS, Sec. — BOOK II.

though possessed of numerous herds, they were not even ac¬
quainted with the use of the churn, but made their butter by-
beating the cream in a bowl, or shaking it in a bottle.

Their amusements, were cards, billiards, and dances: this
last of course the favorite. The dances, were cotillions, reels*
and sometimes the minuet. During the carnival, the balls fol¬
low in rapid succession;. They have a variety of pleasing cus¬
toms, connected with this amusement. Children have also their
balls, and are taught a decorum and propriety of behavior,
which is preserved through life. They have a certain ease and
freedom of address, and are taught the secret of real politeness^
self-denial ; but which by the apes of French manners, is mista¬
ken for an affected grimace of complaisant regard, and a profu¬
sion of bows, scrapes and professions.

Their language, every thing considered, is more pure than
might be expected; their manner of lengthening the sound of
. words, although languid, and without the animation which the
French generally possess, is by no means disagreeable. They
have some new words, and others are in use, which in France
have become obsolete,

In their persons, they are weli formed, of an agreeable plea¬
sant countenance ; indicating cheerfulness and serenity. Their
dress was formerly extremely simple ; the men wore a blanket
eoat, of coarse cloth or coating, with a cape behind, which
could be drawn over the head ; from which circumstance it was
called a cafiote . They wore a blue handkerchief on their heads :
but no hats, or shoes, or stockings ; moccasins, or the Indian
sandals, were used by both sexes. The dress of the females was
likewise simple, and the variations of fashion, few : though they
were dressed in a much better taste than the other sex. These
manners will soon cease to exist, but in remembrance and de¬
scription: every thing has changed. .The American costume is
generally introduced, amongst the first families, and amongst the
young girls and young men universally. I never saw any where
greater elegance of dress than at the balls of St Louis. We still
see a few of both sexes in their ancient habiliments; capots,
moccasins, blue handkerchiefs on the head, a pipe in the mouth,
and the hair tied up in a long queue. These people exhibit a

13 8

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

striking’ difference when compared with the unconquerable per¬
tinacity of the Pennsylvania Germans, who adhere so rigidly to
the customs, manners, and language of their fathers. A few
years have effected more change with the inhabitants of this
territory than has been brought about amongst the Germans in
fifty years.

The government , of the province, though a mixture of the
civil and military, was simple. Each district had its commandant,
or syndic. These were the judges in civil matters under a cer¬
tain amount, and had also command of the militia. They receiv¬
ed their appointment from the intendant at New Orleans, to
whom there was an appeal, from their decisions, and where were
also referred such matters as exceeded their jurisdiction. Arbi¬
trators under the direction of the commandant, in some degree
obviated his want of authority. The mode of proceeding is sin¬
gular enough ; the party complaining obtained a notification from
the commandant to his adversary of the complaint, accompani¬
ed by a command from the commandant, to render the com¬
plainant justice. If this had no effect he was notified to appear
before the commandant on a particular day, and answer the com**
plaint ; and if this last notice was neglected, a sefgeant, with a
file of men, was sent to bring him.

The lieut. governor, who resided at St. Louis, was the com¬
mander of the militia, and had a general superihtendance of the
public works and property, but I do not know the exact extent
of his powers. The laws of Spain were in force here : but it
does not appear that any others had been in practice, besides
those, which related to lands and the municipal arrangements.
Laws regulating civil contracts, are so intimately interwoven
with the manners of a people, that it is no easy task to separate
them : here la continue de Paris9 the common law of France,
was the system by which their contracts were governed. The
judges, in administering justice according to the American ju¬
risprudence, are often perplexed by the article of Session, which
provides, that respect should be paid to the usages and customs
of. the country. A few troops were kept up in each district,
throughout the province, but too inconsiderable to afford much
protection to the inhabitants. This country being so remote

ANCIENT INHABITANTS, 8tc. — BOOK II.

from the main possessions of Spain, was not regarded with much
attention, when we consider its natural importance. The rod of
government was so light as scarcely to be felt; the worst of the
governors, were content, with imposing on their king, by exor¬
bitant charges for useless fortifications, or for supplies never fur¬
nished. I have heard of some oppressions practised on stran¬
gers, but I have been informed by a number of Americans set¬
tled here before the change, that the Spanish government treat¬
ed them with particular attention and respect. I believe, instan¬
ces of individual oppressions on the part of the governors, were
few: but this is to be attributed, not to the government, but to
the state of society.

The present government appears to be operating a genera!
change: its silent but subtle spirit is felt in every nerve and vein,
of the body politic. The United States, acting upon broad prin¬
ciples, cannot be influenced by contemptible partialities between
their own sons and their adopted children. They do not want co-
lonies — they will disdain to hold others in the same state, which
they themselves so nobly despised. They are in fact, both natives
of the same land, and both can claim Freedovi as their birth right.

It requires many hands to work the complicated machinery
of our government ; the object of which, is to enable men, as
much as possible, to govern themselves. Each of the principal
towns, has its officers, its legislature, in which the ancient in¬
habitants have the principal voice. They have been placed on
the bench, they are jurors and magistrates ; commissions are
distributed, which, although not regarded of much importance
in time of peace, yet they make a man feel that he counts some¬
thing in his country; for instance, in the militia, there are gene¬
rals, colonels, majors, captains, See. Thus, one might suppose
that their manners and habits of thinking were gradually pre¬
paring for the reception of a free government. The Americans
have communicated to them, their industry and spirit of enter¬
prise, and, they in turn, have given some of their more gentle and
amiable customs. Upon the whole, the American manners, and
even language, begin to predominate. The young men have al¬
ready been, formed by our government, and those growing up
will have known no other. A singular change has taken place,

UO VIEWS OF LOUISIANA', -

Which, one would think, ought not to be the result of a transition
from a despotism to a republican government : luxury has in¬
creased in a wonderful degree, and there exists something like
a distinction in the classes of society. On the other hand, more
pains are taken with the education of youth ; some have sent
their sons to the seminaries pf the United States, and all seem
anxious to attain this desirable end. Several of the young men
have entered the army of the United States, and have discover-
ed talents. The females are also instructed with more care, and
the sound of the Piano is now heard in their dwellings for the
first time.

Personal property, a few articles excepted, has fallen on m
average, two hundred per cent, in value, and real property risen
at least five hundred. But the prices of merchandise had n©
proportion to the price of produce. Five bushels of corn wer©
formerly necessary for the purchase of a handkerchief, which
can now be had for one. The cultivators raised little pro**
duce beyond what was necessary for their own subsistence, it
was therefore held at high prices, but fell far short of the present
proportion tp the price of imported articles ; the petty trade was
the principal dependence for these supplies. Their agriculture
Was so limited, that instances have been known, of their having-
been supplied by the king, on the failure of their crops from
the inundation of the Mississippi. The low value of lands nati*-
rally arose from the great quantities lying waste, and unoccu¬
pied, in proportion to the extent of the population, or of its pro¬
bable increase, and the consequent facility with which it could
be obtained. Rent was scarcely known.

It maybe questioned, whether the poorest class has been
benefited by the change. Fearless of absolute want, they always
lived in a careless and thoughtless manner; at present the great¬
er part, of them obtain a precarious subsistence. They general-
]y possess a cart, a horse or two, a small stock of cattle, and cul¬
tivate small plots of ground. At St. Louis they have more em¬
ployment than in the other villages; they make hay in the prai¬
ries, haul wood for sale, and are employed to do trifling jobs in
town; some are boatmen or patrons. At St. Genevieve, they de¬
pend more upon their agriculture, and have portions in the great

ANCIENT INHABITANTS, 8tc.— BOOK II.

Jijelcl, but this will probably soon be taken from them by the
greater industry of the American cultivators, who are continu¬
ally purchasing, and who can give double the sum for rent; they
are sometimes employed in hauling lead from the mines, but it
will not be sufficient for their support. A number have remov¬
ed to the country, and, in imitation of the Americans, have set¬
tled down on public lands, but here they cannot expect to remain
long. Those who live in the more remote villages, are less af¬
fected by the change, but there is little prospect of their be¬
ing better situated. But few of them have obtained permission;
from the commandant, to settle on lands; in fact, there was no
safety from the depredations of the Indians, in forming establish¬
ments beyond the villages. Land was only valued for what it
could produce, and any one could obtain as much as he chose
to cultivate.

Until possession was taken of the country by us, there was
no safety from the robberies of the Osage Indians. That impo¬
litic lenity, which the Spanish and even the French government
have manifested towards them, instead of a firm though just
course, gave rise to the most insolent deportment on their part.
I have been informed by the people of St. Genevieve, who suf¬
fered infinitely the most, that they were on one occasion left
without a horse to turn a mill. The Osages were never followed
to any great distance or overtaken ; this impunity necessarily en¬
couraged them. They generally entered the neighbourhood of
the villages, divided into small parties, and during the night,
stole in and carried away every thing they could find, frequent¬
ly breaking open stables, and taking out the horses. After unit¬
ing at a small distance, their place of rendezvous, they marched
leisurely home, driving the stolen horses before them, and with¬
out the least dread of being pursued. They have not dared to
act in this manner under the present government ; there have
been a few solitary instances of robberies by them, within these
three or four years, but they are sufficiently acquainted with the
Americans to know, that they will be instantly pursued, even
into their villages and compelled to surrender. The following
well attested fact, will serve to show the insolence of the Osages
under the former government. A young couple on their way

142'

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

from the settlement, just then formed on Big river, to St Gene¬
vieve, accompanied by a number of their friends, with the inten¬
tion of having the matrimonial knot tied by the priest, were
met by sixty Osages, robbed of their horses, and the whole par¬
ty actually shipped I What serves, however, to lessen the atro¬
city of these outrages, it has been remarked, that they are never'
known to take away the lives of those who fall into their hands.
The insolence of the other nations who came openly to their
villages, the piorias, Loups, Kickapoos, Chickasas, Cherokees,
See. is inconceivable. They were sometimes perfectly meters
of the villages, and excited general consternation. I have seen
the houses on some occasions cipsed up, and the doors barred by
the tepri&ed inhabitants ; they were not always safe even there.
It is strange how these people have entirely disappeared with¬
in a few years, there are at present scarcely a sufficient number
to supply the villages vyith game.

The historical epocha of this territory, are few and simple.
Shortly after the first formation of the settlement, it was ceded
by the treaty of ’63; the secret treaty between Spain and
France of 1762, was not known, and perhaps never would have
been, if France had proved successful in her contest with Bri¬
tain. The history of Louisiana, generally, until it came into
the hands of the United States, is the his.tory ,pf this territory,
By the treaty of Ildefonso, of Oct. 1800, this country wasreced-
ed by Spain to France ; the situation of France at that period
not permitting her to take possession, she ceded ft to the U.
States. The fear of its falling into the hands of her enemy was a
strong inducement.

On the part of the United States, possession was taken of this
territory in 1804, by capt. (now major Stoddard) who was our
first civil commandant. In pursuance of .the act pf congress,
which separated it from the district of Orleans, with the name
of the district of Louisiana, it was placed for the moment, under
the government of the territory of Indiana. Governor Harrison,
of that territory, accordingly, organized the government, and
put it in motion. In 1805, it was/erected into a.territorial go¬
vernment similar to that of the other territories, by the name of

ANCIENT INHABITANTS, &c.— BOOK II.

143

the Territory of Louisiana .* For these things I must refer the
reader to the different acts of congress on the subject. Two
important treaties were formed with the Indians, one with the
Sacs and Foxes, and the other with the Great and Little Osages.

If I am asked, whether the ancient inhabitants are more
contented, or happy, under the new order of things, or have rea¬
son to be so, I should consider the question a difficult one, and
answer it with hesitation. It is not easy to know the secret
sentiments of men, and happiness is a relative term. It is true.,
I have heard murmurings against the present government, and
something like sorrowing after that of Spain, which I rather at¬
tributed to momentary chagrin, than to real and sincere senti¬
ment; besides, this generally proceeds from those who were
wont to bask in the sunshine of favor. Vet I have not observ¬
ed those signs which unequivocally mark a suffering and unhap¬
py people. The principal source of uneasiness arises from the
difficulties of settling the land claimed by the commissioners on
the part of the United States. The principal inhabitants have-
lost much of that influence which they formerly possessed, and
are superseded in trade and in lucrative occupations by stran¬
gers; their claims therefore constitute their chief dependence.
The subject of those claims embraces such a variety of topics,
that it is not possible to give any correct idea of them in this
cursory view. It is a subject on which the claimants are feel¬
ingly alive. This anxiety is a taeit compliment to our govern¬
ment, for under the former, their claims would be scarcely worth
attention. The general complaint is, the want of sufficient liberal¬
ity in determining on the claims. There is (perhaps too great a
disposition to lean against the larger concessions, some of which
are certainly very great, but when we consider the trifling value
of lands under the Spanish government, there will appear less
reason for this prepossession against them. For many reasons,
it would not be to the honor of the United States, that too
much strictness should be required in the proof, or formalities

* The territory of Orleans has now become the “ state of Louisiana5*
and the “ territory of Louisiana” has been changed to the “territory of
the Missouri.-

144

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

of title, particularly of a people who came into their power witlfe
out any participation on their pan, and without having been
consulted. Six years have passed away without the final adjust¬
ment of the claims, and even those that have been decided upon*
will give rise to lawsuits ; it Is probable there will be as copious
a harvest of these as ever was furnished by any of the states.

The lower class have never been in the habit of thinking be¬
yond what immediately concern themselves; they, cannot there¬
fore, be expected to foresee political consequences. They were
formerly under a kind of dependence, or rather vassallage, to the
great men of villages, to whom they looked up for their support
and protection. Had they been more accustomed to think it
possible, that by industry it was in their power to become rich,
and independent also, the change would have been instantly felt
in their prosperity. But they possess a certain indifference and
apathy, which cannot be changed till the present generation shall
pass away. They are of late observed to become fond of intoxicat¬
ing liquors. There is a middle class, whose claims or posses¬
sions were not extensive, but sure, and from the increased value
of their property, have obtained since the change of government,
a handsome competence. They, upon the whole, are well satis¬
fied ; I have heard many of them express their approbation of the
American government, in the warmest terms. They feel and
speak like freemen, and are not slow in declaring, that formerly
the field of enterprise was occupied by the monopolies of a few,
and it is now open to every industrious citizen.

There are some things in the administration of justice, which
they do not yet perfectly comprehend ; the trial by jury, and the
multifarious forms of our jurisprudence. They had not been
accustomed to distinguish between the slow and cautious ad¬
vances of even-handed justice , and the despatch of arbitrary pow¬
er.* In their simple state of society, when the subjects of litiga¬
tion were not of great value, the administration of justice might
fee speedy and simple ; but they ought to be aware, that when a

* Some of the more important lawsuits, however, where more exten¬
sive bribery could be carried on, are known to have slept for fifteen
years.

Ancient inhabitants, &c.— book ii.

145

society becomes extensive, and its occupations, relations and in¬
terests, more numerous, people less acquainted with each other,
the laws must be more complex. The trial by jury, is foreign
to the customs and manners of their ancestors ; it is therefore
not to be expected that they should at once comprehend its util*
ity and importance.

The chief advantages which accrued from the change of go¬
vernment* may be summed up in a few words The inhabitants
derived a security from the Indians; a more extensive field,
and a greater reward was offered to industry and enterprise;
specie became more abundant, and merchandise cheaper.—
Landed property was greatly enhanced in value. In opposition*
it may be said, that formerly they were more content, had less
anxiety; there was more cordiality and friendship, living in the
Utmost harmony, with scarcely any clashing interests. This per¬
haps, is not unlike the notions of old people, who believe that in
their early days every thing was more happily ordered.

The idea of their becoming extinct, by dissolving before a
people of a different race, and of losing their bioeurs cheries *
might excite unhappy sensations. Already the principal vil*
lages look like the towns of the Americans. Are not the cus¬
toms and manners of our fathers, and of our own youth, dear
to us all ? W ould it not fill our hearts with bitterness, to see
them vanish as a dream ? Sentiments like these, doubtless,
sometimes steal into their hearts. They awake, and their hqAie
has disappeared.

But is it likely that this state of society could have been of
long continuance ? The policy which had been commenced of
encouraging American settlers, would by this time have over¬
whelmed them with a torrent of emigration. Isolated as they
were, they could not have withstood this accumulating wave of
population. Had they been transferred to France, they would
have suffered from exactions and conscriptions; had they re¬
mained attached to Spain, what miseries might not have assail¬
ed them from the convulsed state of the Spanish monarchy!—
And is it nothing to exchange the name of colonists, creoles, for
that of Americans, for that of a citizen of ah independent state,
where they can aspire to the highest employments and honors.!

146- VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

There are some, who can feel what it is to be exalted to the dig¬
nity of freemen ; to the base and ignoble mind which cannot ap¬
preciate this blessing, my writings are not addressed. Louisiani¬
ans, you have now become truly Americans; never will you
again be transferred from one nation to another; if you are

EVER SOLD AGAIN, IT WILL BE FOR BLOOD.

At the same time, let us allow, for those emotions which must
naturally be felt. Like two streams that flow to each other from
remote and distant climes, although at length, included in the
same channel, it is not all at once that they will unite their con-
tributary waters, and mingle into one .

CHAPTER VII.

LEAD MINES IN THE DISTRICT OF ST. GENEVIEVE— MODE OF
MINING - PRODUCE, &C.

THE different mines, or diggings , as they are commonly
called, are scattered over the greater part of this district. It is
not known with certainty, to what distance the mineral extends
west and south, or towards the Mississippi.* The Mine a Bur¬
ton, about forty miles west of St. Genevieve, may be considered
the centre of those which are profitably worked.

These mines have been known for a great many years; for
the discovery would be made, as soon as the country could be
traversed; the ore being visible in the ravines washed by
rains, and in the beds of rivulets. The first diggings were made
by a man of the name of Renault, and so extensively, that the
present are only following up the old one.f

* On the Osage river, and in the country Watered by White river, I
am informed by hunters, that lead ore is found in surprising quanti¬
ties, even dn the surface of the ground.

j- See Abby Raynal — “ To give the greater Weight to this false re¬
port, which had already gained so much credit, a number of miners
were sent over to work these mines, which were imagined so valuable.
With a body of troops to defend them.”

LEAD MINES, &c.— BOOK II.

147

The famous Mississippi Company, was founded principally
upon the supposed wealth, in minerals of the more precious
kinds, in Louisiana; and it was necessary to do something, to
give it an appearance of seriousness. Renault was therefore
sent, it is said, with five hundred men to search for minerals. The
number and great extent of these diggings attest the assiduity
of his researches.' Perhaps, Renault not being able to find gold,
or silver ore, sufficient to reward his labor, turned his attention
to smelting lead; and there is reason to beiieve that very great
quantities were made.

But after the failure of the company before mentioned, it
does not appear that the lead mines were much attended to; nor
even after the crossing of the French settlements to the west¬
ern side of the Mississippi, and the establishment of St. Gene¬
vieve. The lead made before the change of government, was
not a tenth of what is smelted now, and the value scarcely a third.

The object of this view, is to give some account of the dif¬
ferent mines, the manner of working them, their produce, &c.

1. What is called a discovery , by those engaged in working
the mines, is, when any one happens upon an extensive body of
ore. This is made, by digging several holes or pits, five or six
feet deep, in some spot supposed to contain ore, and if a conside¬
rable quantity is at once found, the place is called a discovery ; but
if only a few pounds, it is abandoned. But the fact is, that there
are few places, throughout the mine tract, in which such disco¬
veries cannot be made, though perhaps, with different degrees
of labor. Several are made every season, and each continues
for a time in vogue, and the miners flock to it from all the others,
until the report spreads of the discovery of some new spot,
where the ore is found in still greater abundance, and procured
with more ease ; to this place they are again attracted. A disco¬
very is at length fixed upon, which obtains the preference
throughout the rest of the season. A discovery is sometimes
published when there is not much to warrant it, but the number
of persons drawn to the place, make one in reality.

2. The ore is most commonly found in the slopes, near rivu«
lets, in a clay of a deep red color ; frequently but a few leet from
the surface of the ground, and in huge masses, of sometimes a

148 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA.

thousand and even two thousand lbs. but most usually in lumps
from one to fifty lbs. weight. The rock which is either a primi¬
tive limestone, or a kind of sandstone, is struck at the depth of
eight or ten feet. Various kinds of clay are often found in these
pits, and amongst some other substances, the blende ore of zinc
has been discovered. The ore contains a considerable propor¬
tion of sulphur, arsenic, and it is believed, of silver; though ill
respect to the last, it has not been sufficiently tested by experi¬
ments, to know whether the proportion would repay the trouble
and expense of separating it. It is highly probable that the ore
of some of the mines, may yield it sufficiently The ore of the
Maramek, which, I am informed, has been partially essayed, gave
the most flattering result. Above the rock, the ore is found
in enormous masses, in strata, apparently horizontal, and often
two feet thick, and several of these are passed before the rock
arrests the progress of the miner. I have seen pits ten or twelve
feet deep where the strata of ore had only been dug through*
the digger intending to strike the rock before he attempted to
undermine; perhaps, gratifying his vanity with the pleasing con¬
templation of the shining mineral, his riches. In the rock there*
appears to be no regular veins; the ore occupies the accidental
fissures, as is the case generally in lead mines. Leads, (or loads)
are the smaller fissures that connect with the larger, which are
called by the miners, caves. The ore is what is called potter’s
ore, or galena, and has a broad shining grain ; but there is also,
what is called gravel ore, from being found in small pieces in
gravel ; and that kind of ore called floats, being formed in large
irregular, but unconnected masses. The first kind is the most
to be depended on * the uncertainty of the floats, and the trouble
of smelting the gravel ore, render both of less consequence. —
The potter’s ore, or galena, has always adhering to it, a sparry
matter, which the miners call tiif, and which requires to be se¬
parated with small picks made for that purpose : this operation
is called cleaning, the ore. The floats have no tiif, and are the
most easily smelted.

3. The mode of working the mines is exceedingly simple.
The word diggings , by which they are known, very well desig¬
nates the appearance of these places ; pits, and heaps of clay

LEAD MINES, &c.— BOOK II.

149

thrown out of them, covering sometimes fifty acres or more.—
With two or three exceptions, there is scarcely any place
which might be termed mining. There is but one shaft,
which is at the Mine a Burton, and sunk by Moses Austin. The
miners usually work them upon their own account, and dispose
of their ore to the smelters; there are some, however, who hire
hands by the month, or employ slaves. But experience has
shewn that it is best for the interests of both the digger and
the smelter to pursue the first mode; from the chance to the
one of falling upon a good body of ore, and to the other of the
general uncertainty; the keeping a number of persons in con¬
stant pay for a length of time before he would be remunerated
by a profitable discovery. If mining were carried on in a proper
manner, the case would be different ; the profits might then be
susceptible of calculation, but this scratching the surface of the
earth cannot be attended with certainty. To find a large body of
ore, so near the surface, although not unfrequent, yet cannot be
depended upon; it is little better than a lottery. The miners
have a variety of rules amongst themselves, to prevent disputes
in diggings. Each one takes a pole, and measures off twelve
feet in every direction from the edge ; the pits seldom exceed
eight or ten feet in diameter. He is not permitted to undermine
farther than his twelve feet, but must dig a new pit if the ground
=be not occupied. The only instruments are a pick, wooden shoi-
vei, and a sledge hammer, to break rocks. The ore delivered
at the pit, sells from twenty to twenty-five dollars per thousand
lbs. A digger will sometimes raise two thousand in one day, but
notwithstanding, these people do not grow rich faster than their
neighbours. What is easily earned is carelessly spent; and be¬
sides, it often happens that the miner will work for months with¬
out making a cent, before he has the luck of lighting on this
■treasure. It sometimes happens that he will quit in despair, a
pit at which he has been laboring for months, while another
leaps in, and after a few hours work, falls upon a body of ore that
would have rewarded the labors of the first. The appearance
pf ore in a pit which has been the work of a few days, is fre¬
quently such as to enable him to sell it for four or five hundred
dollars. This kind of gaming, for it scarcely deserves any other

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

1%)

name, gives rise to great industry and satisfaction in the miners.
The constant stretch of expectation in which the mind is kept,
gives a zest to their labors.

4. The careless mode of smelting in use proves the great a-
bundance of the ore. There is but one regular furnace, the rest
are of a temporary and simple construction. The most common
are built on the declivity of some hill, with stones, open at the
top, and with an arch below. Three large logs about four feet
wide, so as to fit the furnace, are rolled in, smaller pieces of wood
placed round, and the ore then heaped up in large lumps : fire
is set to it in the evening, and by the next morning there will
be a sufficient quantity of the melted lead in the little reservoir
or hole, scratched in the earth before the ^ch,to commence the
operation of pouring it into moulds to form pigs. There are
usually several of these furnaces joined together. About six thou¬
sand lbs. of ore are put into each, and the first smelting produces
50 per cent, besides leaving a quantity of scori or scorched ore.
The ashes, which contain particles of ore and scori, are wash¬
ed, and smelted in a furnace of a different construction, and often
yield twenty-five or thirty per cent more. The ore smelted in
this rude way, may be safely considered as yielding seventy-five
per cent. There remains a dark green substance called slag,
which on late examination, is thought still to retain a proportion
of lead worth pursuing. There is no process of pounding or
washing, except at the air furnace. The three modes of smelt¬
ing, to wit, the oficn furnace, the ash furnace, and the air furnace,
(belonging to Mr. Austin,) have all been introduced since the
Americans took possession of the country. The creoles never
smelted any other way than by throwing the lead on log heaps.
Each of the diggings has its smelting furnace, and the ore is
smelted on the spot. The business of smelting is considered
unhealthy, but that of mining remarkably the reverse. This un¬
healthiness arises from the fumes of the furnace, in which there
are quantities of arsenic and sulphur. Animals raised about the
furnace are frequently poisoned, by licking the ore, or even the
stones. Dogs and cats, and even poultry, are seen to fall down
suddenly and die.

LEAD MINES, &c.— BOOK tt.

15L

Having taken this general view, of the mines, their produce,
&c. I shall proceed to describe the different diggings , more min¬
utely. I have elsewhere observed, that they are scattered over
a tract of country about sixty miles in length and twenty -five in
breadth, many of those in vogue a few years ago, are now aban¬
doned, for new discoveries. The appearance of the diggings
which I have before partly described, is like that of small villa¬
ges, consisting of a collection of little cabins or huts. The dis¬
tance from Mine la Motte, to the Richwood mines, the one on
the St. Francis, and the other near the Maramek, is about sixty
miles; and from Fourche Courtois, west of the Mine a Burton
(which I have considered as the centre) to the mines nearest the
Mississippi, is about twenty -five miles. There is no doubt but
that mines equally good as any that are wrought may be found
out of this tract in every direction ; even within a few miles of
the Mississippi. Not more than four miles from that river, be¬
tween col. Hammond’s farm and Herculaneum, I picked up in
the road, a large lump of ore, which had been washed out by
rain a short time before.

MINE A BURTON,

Is situated on a handsome stream, a branch of Big river, and
large enough to turn a mill the whole year. The village, which
is much superior to those which are formed near the diggings,
is built on either side of it. The diggings extend around it in
every direction, but the principal, which are called the Citadel
Diggings, are immediately west, on a high prairie. They occu¬
py about two hundred acres. The surface of the ground has
been tolerably well searched ; and very great quantities of lead,
from the first discovery of this place to the present time, have
been made : it will now be necessary to sink into the bowels of
the earth before much more can be done : this place has been
nearly abandoned by the common diggers. A shaft, and the first
known in this country, has been sunk by Mr. Austin, on a part
which falls within his concession. It is about eighty feet in depth,
and drifts, in various directions, extend a considerable distance.
Twenty hands, might work here at present to advantage, and

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

1A2

with sure prospect of profits. They are not yet incommoded ba¬
ilie intrusion of the water, owing to the height of their situation?.-

The situation of this village is pleasant, there are some hand¬
some dwellings ; the inhabitants, about twenty families, turn
their attention to agriculture. The surrounding country, ab
though broken in many parts, yet affords a great deal of fine
land : the soil, as is general throughout the mine tract, is of a
deep red, and supposed to be principally produced by the de¬
composition of pyrites, which are known to be a manure. Col.
Perry shewed me a field in which wheat had been sown for
twelve successive years, and no apparent diminution in the pro¬
duce,

JVew Diggings, about two miles east of the Mine a Burton 5
they were opened about the year 1 806 : and from the fame which
they acquired, drew the miners from nearly all the other mines.
It is thought, that during the year, in which these were work¬
ed, more lead was made, than has been since, in any one year
throughout the mines. For two or three years past, until the
present season, these diggings were almost neglected. They
are now wrought by several gentlemen with hired hands and
slaves. They Work in a few pits that had already been sunk to
a considerable depth, but had been relinquished on account of
the water; this difficulty has been obviated by machinery.—
There are several farms around it.

Mine Arnault: north of the Mine a Burton about six miles,-
is situated Upon a branch of the Mineral Fork, a large creek.—
It has hot been wrought for many years, blit a new discovery
made within a short distance of it, is very flattering. The ad¬
jacent country consists of rugged hills, and one might almost fan¬
cy himself in the Allegany mountains.

Elliott's Diggings , Old Mines, and the mines of Belle Eon*
tairte, may be considered under the same head : in half a day one
may easily visit them all. Flliot’s diggings have been worked
for several years, by the proprietors, and to advantage. The old
mines, for three or four years have been entirely neglected: the
land is good, and there is a little settlement of twenty or thirty
industrious people who cultivate it. These mines are from six
to twelve miles from the Mine a Burton. Brown's Diggings, are

LEAD MINES &c.— BOOK II.

153

the most noted of those near Belle Fontaine. In the course of
the year before last, little short of one million lbs. of lead were
smelted here. A considerable quantity is still made, and the ap¬
pearance of the diggings are flattering, and, but for the disper¬
sion of the miners to other places, might be worked as profitably
as any others. They are situated within a short distance of Big
river: and about twenty-five miles from Herculaneum.

Bryan’s Diggings, a few miles east of Big river. It is about
eighteen months since these were discovered ; but there has
been more lead made than at any other place of the district, in
the course of the present year. They are situated twenty -five
miles from St. Genevieve, and twenty from Herculaneum.

Richwood Mines , are situated about twenty miles N- E. of
the Mine a Burton ; they are said to be productive.

Mine a Joe , on Big river, higher up than Bryan’s Diggings,
and somewhat further from St. Genevieve. Only a few hands
have been employed here during the present season.

Mine a la Matte , four miles from the St. Francis, and on a
small stream which falls into that river; it is one of the oldest,
and has been constantly wrought for many years, and produces a
considerable quantity even on the present mode of mining — .
The distance is about thirty miles from St. Genevieve. There is
a handsome little village ; the inhabitants sober and industrious.

Perry’s Diggings , Mine Liberty , Fourche Courtois, are new
discoveries. There are also some others of less note.

The Big river, Terre Bleu, and the Mineral Fork, are con¬
sidered streams which meander through the mine tract. Big
fiver is long, but extremely crooked ; in length it falls little short
of two hundred . miles, from its source to where It discharges it¬
self into the Marapnek: and may be ascended upwards of sixty
miles in periogues. There are extensive bodies of fine land in
its neighborhood, both bottom and upland. The mine tract ge¬
nerally, a thing somewhat unusual in mineral countries, is well
adapted to agriculture. No country can be more plentifully wa¬
tered, possessing in great abundance the most delightful foun¬
tains and rivulets.

154

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

It is not more than three or four years since the settlements
through this country commenced. The Spanish government
held out encouragements to American settlers, and I have been
informed that about the years 1&01— -2, emigration was begin*
ning to How in rapidly : it is probable that in a few years, unless
restrained by government, there would have been a considera¬
ble population. The farmers- in the mine country, will have the
advantage of a ready market near them for their produce, and in
the winter season, when their forms do not require attention?
they will find a profitable employment in transporting the lead
to the towns, for the purpose of being shipped.

The following is an estimate from the best information I can
procure, of the annual produce of the different mines, and of
the number of persons engaged in them; without counting
smelters, blacksmiths, and others.

lbs. lead.

hands ,

Mine a Burton .

..... 50.000

New Diggings .

..... 200.000

Perry’s Diggings,"

i . 60.000

Mine Liberty, &x d

Elliott’s Diggings

..... 100.000

Mines of Belle Fontaine . . . 300.000

Bryan’s Diggings

..... 600.000

Kichwoods . .

..... 75.000

Mine a La Motte

Fourche Courtois

. . . . . 10.000

Mine a Robins & >

- .... 30000

Mine a Joe j

N _

1 525.000

350

From this some estimate may be formed of the produce of
these mines. When they come to be extensively worked, I have
not a Houbt but that they will be able to supply the United States^
not only witinii sufficient quantity for home consumption, but al¬
so with an immense surplus for commerce.

The government has manifested by some acts, an intention
reserving to itself the mineral tracts. But the policy of this?

"LEAD MINES, &c.~ BOOK II. 155

% think, may be fairly questioned. It is just and wise, that mines
of gold or silver, or of other precious minerals, whose value is
Conventional or imaginary, should be reserved, or at least a pro¬
portion of them : but in ores of lead or iron, whose value depends
on the labor bestowed on them, and which are besides intrinsi¬
cally useful, there should be no interference with individuals.
In this country, where almost every tract, and for a great extent,
contains mines, the reservation would be almost impracticable.
I can no more approve of this reservation, than I do that of
salines. I think they are contrary to correct principles in any
government, and particularly in the United States. A just go¬
vernment will never enter into competition, either in trade or
manufacture, with individuals. The individual in such cases,
has to contend against fearful odds. There is a littleness in it
degrading to the magnanimity of a great republic.

By an act of congress, the governor of the territory is autho¬
rised to grant leases, of three years, to persons discovering lead
mines, or salines.

The manners of the workmen and of the persons engaged
in the mining business, have been represented as barbarous in
the extreme I am told, that a few years ago, there was a col¬
lection of worthless and abandoned characters, and that the dif¬
ferent mines were scenes of broils and savage ferocity ; but the
state of society, has greatly altered since that time. There has
been some very atrocious acts committed lately, but it would be
unfair to infer from these the general character of those engag¬
ed about the mines. There are many worthy and reputable
men engaged in this business, and many respectable families are.
scattered through the mine country.

15$

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

CHAPTER Till.

RESOURCES— AGRICULTURE— MANUFACTURES*— TRADE.

NATURE has been more bountiful to this territory, than
perhaps to any part of the western country. It possesses all
the advantages of the states of Ohio, Kentucky and Tennes¬
see, with many which they have not. Proximity to the great
mart of the west, will enable the produce of this territory to
be the first in arriving, and consequently to bring the highest
prices.

The agriculture of this territory will be very similar to that
of Kentucky, except, that south of the 35° of latitude, cotton
may be grown to advantage, and nearly as high as the Missouri,
for home consumption. The soil, or climate, of no part of the
United States is better adapted to the growth of wheat, rye, bar¬
ley, and every species of grain. R:ce and indigo may be culti¬
vated in many parts of it: and no part of the western country
surpasses it for the culture of tobacco, hemp, and flax. Except
the fig, orange, and a few other fruits, every species common
to the United States is cultivated to advantage. There are no
where finer apples, peaches, pears, cherries, plums, quinces,
‘grapes, melons, &c.

The manufactures which might be established are various
and important. The immense quantity and cheapness of lead,
naturally point out this country as the proper one for the differ¬
ent manufactures of that mineral : sheet lead, shot, red and white
lead, 8cc- The abundance of iron ore, on the Maramek, St;
Francis, and Osage rivers, will at no distant period, encourage
the establishment of furnaces and forges. The different manu¬
factures of hemp, requisite for the lower country, may be here
carried on to advantage. There is a great abundance of the
finest timber for boat or ship building ; in this respect, the situ¬
ation of the territory has decided advantages over the rest of the.
western country.

The staple articles of trade, are at present, lead, peltry, cot¬
ton, tobacco, and five stock. It wili not be long before there wifi

BOUNDARIES, SURFACE, Scc —BOOK II.

15T

he added to these, the manufactures of lead, hemp, and cotton,
besides the raw materials themselves; also, iron, salt-petre, and
coal, wheat, flour, apples, cider, whiskey, pickled pork, and
beef, and a variety of other articles of less importance.

CHAPTER IX.

STATE OF~ LOUISIANA,

BOUNDARIES— GENERAL SURFACE, &C.

THE state of Louisiana is bounded in the following manner;
“ beginning at the mouth of the river Sabine, thence by a line to
be drawn along the middle of said river, including all its islands,
to the thirty-second degree of north latitude, thence due north,
to the northernmost part of the thirty-third degree of north lati¬
tude, thence along the said parallel of latitude, to the Mississip¬
pi ;” by the accession of West Florida, the state is bounded on the
cast side of the Mississippi, as follows; from the thirty first de¬
gree of north latitude on the Mississippi, along the said parallel
ofTatitude,-to the eastern branch of Pearl river, and down Pearl
river to its mouth, thence to the mouth of the Sabine. It is
bounded on the north and east by the Mississippi territory, .
the south by the ragged coast of the gulph of Mexico, and on
the other sides by unoccupied lands of the United States.

I refer the reader to Mr. Darby’s table for an estimate of its
superficial contents, See. Its shape is exceedingly irregular,
arising from the unevenness of the coast, and from the line on
the eastern side commencing only at the thirty-first degree of
north latitude. Were it to begin at the thirty-third, so as to cor¬
respond with the line on the western side, the state would be
left in a more compact and definite shape. Something has been
said of carrying this into effect, if it should meet the approbation
of the people of the Mississippi territory Much might be said
in favor of it; it would tend to lessen the expense of state go-

VI^WS OF LOUISIANA.

yernment, to both, and give that right to the Mississippi terri-
tory sooner than could be well expected without. But the great
objections, and indeed they seem almost insurmountable, arise
from the difficulty of subjecting that territory to the civil law,
after having been so long accustomed to a different system ; and
to introduce the common law into this state, at once, would be
highly impolitic, if practicable.

With respect to the surface of the state, it may be easily
comprehended under three general descriptions:

I. The tract of Upland —

II. The Alluvia and Sunken lands—

III. The Prairies or Savannas —

I. The tract of upland constitutes three-fifths of the whole
state; all that part of Florida above Iberville, which has been
added to the state, is of this description. For fifteen or twenty
miles from the Mississippi it is covered with heavy timber, prin¬
cipally oak, poplar, walnut, the magnolia grandiflora, and a
great variety of other laurels. After this, we find with little va¬
riation, open pine woods, excepting on the banks of the streams*
which are numerous and pleasant. On the other side of the
Mississippi, west of the alluvia (which are generally bounded
by the Bayou Masson, Bayou Boeuf, and the Teche) the upland
commences, covered, with but little variation, by the long leaf¬
ed pine. It is divided to the S. W. by the avenue of Red
river, beyond this, it resumes its original appearance, with
little interruption, west to the Sabine: but in advancing to
the gulph of Mexico, a change is gradually perceived. Within
thirty miles of the Opelousas church, the pine woods imper¬
ceptibly give place to groves of dwarf oak and hickory, with
spots of ground covered only with grass; these groves appear
only on the water courses, and we enter the boundless prairies
of Opelousas.

II. The prairies or savannas, and alluvia, scarcely constitute
the other two-fifths of the state. Besides those on the Washita*
and a few of no great extent, west of Black river, there are
none of any consequence, except those of the Opelousas and
Attakapas. These constitute a tract of nearly eighty miles in
length, from east to west, and fifty in breadth. The prairies of

BOUNDARIES, SURFACE, &c.~ BOOK If.

159

Opelousas have a waving surface, though no where rising into
hills ; those of the Attakapas are flat and level, covered with a
more luxuriant and a coarser vegetation. The whole country
is chequered by the woody margins of streams, called bayoux,*
though different from the refluent waters of the river. The^
parts of the country in England, where the grounds are divid¬
ed by hedge rows, might seem miniatures of the bold designs
which nature has displayed in laying off this tract. The fringes
of wood on the borders of the bayoux seldom exceed a half mile
in width, and consist of live oak, magnolia, &c. and on the wet
parts, of cypress. The rivers Teche and Vermillion, have
the largest tracts of timbered land, and are consequently the best
settled parts of the prairies. The prairies will be found in the
aggregate, the least valuable of the public domain ; if they be
surveyed and laid off, as at present contemplated, it will be im¬
possible to sell them for more than a trifle : who would purchase
a tract of land situated perhaps at the distance of several miles
from wood or water? The fact is, that the greater part is only
fit for pasturage, and there is little likelihood, of any other usq
being made of it, for many years to come. From late observa*
tions, however, it is probable, that in time trees might be culti¬
vated : the soil is growing richer from the manure left by the
numerous herds of cattle which continually cover it.

III. The alluvion lands constitute the third division. Much
erroneous calculation has been indulged on this head. It has
been a prevailing opinion, that by far the greater part of the
state is composed of this kind of land. From what I have said,
it may be seen that it does not constitute more than the fifth of
the state: but of this portion, there is not more than a fourth
which can be considered irreclaimable. When I say irreclaim¬
able, I do not mean to convey the idea of any physical impossi¬
bility, but the great difficulty with which it must be effected,
and the great length of time which must elapse before it can
be done. I am well satisfied that there is much less of the west-

* They are natural drains of the waters accumulated by the rains in
the prairie; ponds and even lakes are formed in places by tha rains—
This arises from the uneven surface of the ground.

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA,

i§|

ern side of the Mississippi rendered useless by the annual flood's-,
than is usually stated. This observation has been several times
repeated in different parts of these Views, and I find no reason
to change my opinion. There is certainly much sunken and
overflowed land, and perhaps not to be reclaimed without im¬
mense labor, and between the Washita and the Mississippi, per¬
haps one-third is of this kind. But there is nothing more incor¬
rect than the general and vague accounts of writers on this sub¬
ject, who state that the western side of the Mississippi is annual¬
ly inundated to the distance of thirty or forty , and even sixty
miles. The settlements established within a few years between
the Washita and the Mississippi, prove the error of the opi¬
nion to which so many have given currency. It is true as
a general rule, that the bank of the Mississippi, is the highest
part Of the alluvion ground, but this is not always the case ;
the banks of the bayoux and of the lakes are as high, if not
higher. On many of the bayoux there are extensive tracts of up^
land, and this rarely occurs on the bank of the river itself below
the Arkansas. Wherever these are to be found, we may safely
conclude that the ground is but little subject to be covered by
the overflowing of the waters. The road from Concordia, (op¬
posite the town of Natchez) to the upland on the other side of
Black river, is but seldom rendered impassible for travellers on
horseback. I consider the extent of the lands subject to be in¬
undated by the Mississippi, on the eastern side, as not exceed¬
ing fifteen miles, until we come to Black river. 1. From the
foregoing outline it will appear that the alluvion lands are chief¬
ly on the western side of the Mississippi, (the bottoms on the
eastern side are not remarkable) and are finest along this
river from the 33°, extending back to the distance of twenty
miles, but suddenly widening on the approach to Red river,
2. On the Red river, of an average width of ten miles, widening
on its approach to the Mississippi. 3. Below Red river and con¬
stituting the western angle of the Delta. I think it probable,
that on a better acquaintance these tracts will be found to contain
by far the most valuable portions of the public domain ; the pro¬
portion of sunken lands, reclaimable only with great difficulty,
h less than the proportion of unproductive pine woods, or of

BOUNDARIES, SURFACE, &c.-— BOOK It 161

prairie not susceptible of cultivation from the Want of wood and
Water.

In order to giye the reader a more satisfactory view of the
subject, I will enter into some detail on the topography of dif^
ferent sections, or natural divisions.

1. Section of the etctte between Red river , Mississippi , and the
line of the 33° of J\T. Lat.

This embraces an extensive portion of the state, and of a
character in many respects different from the rest. The greats
er part is of an uneven surface, in places hilly, and invariably
covered with the long leafed pine. The soil, we may naturally
suppose from this growth, to be poor, if not barren. But I have
been informed by intelligent persons, that it is preferable to the
pine lands of Georgia. There are no sand hills, and every where
a luxuriant herbage. I have passed over some parts which are
rocky, but in general we find a light grey colored earth, mixed
with a considerable portion of sand. It is supposed that wheat
might be grown in this soil to advantage. There are a great ma¬
ny beautiful streams of clear delightful water, upon whose bor¬
ders, the lands are rich and clothed with a variety of trees, the
magnolia and other laurels, always forming the greater propor¬
tion. These strips of land, or bottoms, rarely exceed a mile in
width. On the roads between the Washita and Red river, there
are a number of scattered settlers, who live tolerably well;
the adjacent pine wood enabling them to keep large herds of cat-
tie. The country is generally healthful, and when it becomes
settled, will be one of the most pleasant in the state. The Wash¬
ita, Catahoula, and Little, river, are the principal streams by
which this tract is watered. On the Washita there is said to be
upland, similar to that of the Missouri, and which is well suited
to the raising of wheat. The country abounds with streams,
which afford mill seats, but it is feared that the torrents which
they roll along after heavy rain, would sweep away any worly
that might be erected. On some of the more considerable
creeks, or rivulets, it often happens that the whole valley is
overflown. Their channels are deep, and many of them abound^

162

VIEWS OP LOUISIANA.

fog in quicksands, but their beds, are usually composed of gra¬
vel or stone.

The exception to this general description consists in the
tract between the Washita and the Mississippi, the greater part
of which is low land. Black river, which loses its name at the
junction of the Tensa, Washita and Catahoula, runs through
the lower part of this tract. The lands on the borders of this riv¬
er, are too low, but not annually subject to be overflown. There
had been settlers for several years on its banks, all the way to
the mouth, previous to 181 1, but the flood of that year, (one of
the most remarkable experienced in this country,) compelled
the greater part of them to abandon their plantations. The lands
between the Black river, Red river, and the Mississippi, are
amongst the lowest in the alluvion tract. There are some lakes ;
that of Concordia for instance, connected with the three rivers
before mentioned, by bayoux diverging from all sides On some
of these bayoux the land is sufficiently high to admit of settle¬
ments. The greater part of this alluvion soil is tinged with red,
from the admixture of the sediment brought down Red river,
with that of the Mississippi. The tract enclosed by the Red riv¬
er, Mississippi, Tensa, and a long narrow lake connected with the
Tensa lake, called Anderson, forms the county of Concordia,
which is almost an island, the east end of this lake approaching
within a few miles of the Mississippi. Opposite this tract, on
the western side of Black river, there is another of nearly equal
size, but which is a complete island, formed by the river just
mentioned, with the bayou Saline, and the Catahoula lake and
river. In this tract, there are no settlements ; the lands are ex¬
tremely low The lake called Catafouloucta, situated on this
tract, is said to have some high land on its borders. The Cata¬
houla lake, is about thirty miles in length, and about six miles
wide. It becomes nearly dry in autumn, and at that season*
and early in the spring, the ground is covered with fine herbage,
and is resorted to by numerous herds of cattle. Besides several
smaller streams, this lake receives the Little river, a fine stream
more than two hundred miles in length ; it is discharged into
Washita, by the Catahoula river, and into Red river by bayou
Saline.

BOUNDARIES, SURFACE, &C.--BOOK II. C S3

The Tensa, which enters from the eastern side, forms, with
the Washita and bayou Long, another island of an oval shape,
and about fifty miles in circumference. On this there are no
settlers, though it is not commonly subject to be overflown; it
is a level of rich soil; in 181 1, it was pretty generally covered
with water to the depth of about one foot. Trifling levees would
secure this tract, as indeed all those islands, if it were not for
the numerous bayoux of a smaller size which every where inter¬
sect the country; entirely to close up thfeir entrances, would
be attended with great labor. Immediately above this island,
there is another called Siciily island, a greater part of which, is
rich upland, and supports a considerable settlement. It is about
thirty miles in circumference. At the lower end of Siciily island
the bayou Tensa spreads into a lake of fifteen or twenty miles
in length, and nearly parallel with the Mississippi; at one place
near the settlement of Palmyra, it approaches within two or
three miles of the Mississippi, and is at length connected with
that river, it is supposed somewhere near Stack island, and form¬
ing one of its out-lets. Besides the Tensa lake, this bayou forms
several others, of which lake Providence is the most considera¬
ble. Their banks are high, and rarely, if ever, subject to the ef¬
fects of the floods of the Mississippi. The Tensa lake receives
two very considerable streams; the riviere aux Boeufs, and the
bayou Masson : both are supposed to have their sources partly
in the pine woods, between the Washita and the Arkansas, and
partly in some lakes, formed by out-lets from the Arkansas and
Mississippi: but from the clearness of their streams it is proba¬
ble that they receive the greater part of their waters from the
upland springs and rivulets. The bayou Masson, may be con*
sidered the boundary of the Mississippi swamp, and seldom re¬
cedes to a greater distance than fifteen miles from the river. The
land between it and the riviere aux Boeufs is generally high prai¬
rie, the lower part rises in bluffs of fifty or sixty feet high. There
are several connecting bayoux between it and the bayou Masson.
The strip of land, perhaps on an average ten or fifteen miles ip
width, between those two bayoux, is generally above the reach of
inundation. Between the riviere aux Boeuft and the Washita, the
land is low, and the overflowing of either river is sometime^

VIEWS OP LOUISIANA.

ready to pour over the bank of the other. On a slight glance3.(
this country, between the Mississippi and the Washita, nearly
four hundred miles on the river, and generally supposed to be
annually covered with water to the depth of several feet, is di¬
vided into long narrow slips, by the parallel courses of the Mis¬
sissippi, bayou Mas§on, riviere aux Boeufs, and the Washita y.
with numerous connecting bayoux, which in time, will be as
useful as artificial canals, and insterspersed with lakes whose
banks are above the reach of inundation. During the flood of
1811, two Indians who had set off from fort Adams, arrived at
Sicilly island, bringing with them several horses. They declare
ed that they had to swim but two bayoux, having followed the.
ridges of high land.

Ail those bayoux are deep, and at all seasons afford sufficient
water to navigate the largest barges. Their courses are gene-,
rally cropked, and narrow, in places perhaps choked with logs
tand rafts. The Washita as high up as the 33° of N. lat. is sel¬
dom more than forty miles from the Mississippi. Two roads
have been cut, one to fort Mira, and the other to bayou Berthe-
lemie, thirty miles above ; they pass through thick cane brakes,
and in high water, it is necessary to swim a great number of
bayoux, and to wade through places overflown.

I am conscious how difficult it is to convey any idea of a.
country, particularly such as this, without a map ; 1 do not know
of any extant, which I can recommend to the reader : that of
Lafon, is undoubtedly the best yet published, but from my own
observation, and from wThat I have learned from others, it is by
no means to be relied on. It was, however, the best that could
be made at the time of its publication, but since then the coun-.
try has become much better known. The manuscript map of
Mr. Darby is greatly superior, the greater part of it being taken
from actual survey.

The principal settlements are those of Concordia, Cata-*
boula, and Washita. In the two last, the settlers cultivate cotton,
but in the other, their principal dependence is in the raising of
stock and the culture of Indian corn, and they generally live poor,
having but few of the comforts and conveniences of lifp.

BOUNDARIES, SURFACE &c. — BOOK II.

165

3. The alluvion tract of Red river — dvoyelle — Land around
the mouth of Red river - dtchafalaya.

The alluvion lands of Red river are remarkably distinguish¬
ed from those of the Mississippi, by their deep red color, arising,
as is supposed by Dr. Hunter, from the decomposition of pyrites,
or a mixture of some metallic substance. The lands on the
Atchafalaya, and on numerous bayoux at present fed by the wa¬
ters of the Mississippi, are of this description* the sediment
brought down by Red river, appears to predominate through a
very extensive portion of the alluvion soil west of the Missis¬
sippi.

If it is difficult to give an idea of the country bordering on
the Mississippi by a mere description in words, it is still more
so with respect to the valley of Red river. Its irregular and con¬
fused shape, “ if shape it ©an be called,” baffles every attempt
to compare it to any known figure in mathematics or in nature.
This irregularity is principally caused by the strange and ec¬
centric course which that river pursues. Instead of flowing in
a regular channel, it divides its waters into a hundred streams,
separating and again uniting so as to render it difficult to trace
the principal river. Large tracts of primitive ground, or up¬
land, in the ever changing course of this river, have been cut
off from the main body, stand perfectly disconnected with it, and
surrounded by alluvion; the current having in time entirely
worn away the primitive ground. There are a great number of
bayoux, or refluent streams, which show incontestable proofs, of
having been at different periods, the beds of the river. It is to
be observed, that on the N. E. side, the Red river is almost in¬
variably bounded by the primitive land, and the irregularities
just mentioned, occur chiefly on the S. western side : from this
it would appear, that this river, like the Mississippi, is progress¬
ing in its general course eastward, and that it could never have
been much further in that direction than at present. Red river*
would be almost as bold a stream as the Mississippi, but for the
great diminution of its waters by subdivision and the forma¬
tion of lakes; it has had the good effect of rendering the lands
in its vicinity more free from inundation, than those of the Mis¬
sissippi. About lat. 32° 40, long. 96° 15, Red river separates irf-

160 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

to two branches, which unite within ten miles of Natchi¬
toches. The eastern branch retains the name of the river, is
the most considerable, but obstructed by the great raft. A ba¬
you which makes out on the east side of this branch, spreads
out into lake Bestianeaii, and afterwards joins the main stream.
The western branch does not flow in a well defined channel,
but at short intervals, spreads out into lake Pisaquie, lake Mai-
doux, and lake Long, connected on the east side by bayou Pierre
(properly a continuation of the W. branch) and immediately be¬
fore the junction of the two branches, the W. branch, by a
refluent bayou, contributes with the streams from the upland
in forming the lake Espagnoi.* The island, or tract, enclos-
ed by the two branches, is of an oval form, and not less than
Chree hundred miles in circumference; a considerable part is
said to consist of low sunken lands, but there must doubt¬
less be a large portion of a superior quality. Immediately
below the village of Natchitoches, the river again separates
into three branches, the middle one being the principal. The
eastern is called Fausse riviere, (False river) and is connect¬
ed with several lakes to the N. E. of it. The western branch
is called the river of the Post, and has on its S, W side
a number of lakes formed partly by its own refluent waters, and
those of the upland streams: the lake a Case is the largest of
these. Between this and the middle branch, several islands! are
formed by the connecting bayoux. In times of high water there
is but little difference in the size of these three branches ; the ri¬
ver of the Post has been preferred on account of the distance be.-
ing shorter, but the middle branch is much the clearest, though
nothing more than a deep gut or bayou, twenty or thirty yards
in width, scarcely sufficient for a long barge to turn round. The
principal settlement of Natchitoches, is situated upon it, and
forms an almost continued village for forty or fifty miles. The
Water never rises so as to render it necessary to add to the na-

* This i^, more or less the case with all the lakes in the vicinity of
Bed river. The streams from the high, or primitive ground, are extreme¬
ly well supplied with water.

f Amongst others the isle of the Natchez, where that unfortunate
people made their last stapd.

BOUNDARIES, SURFACE &c — BOOK IX. 16?

tural banks. These branches re-unite fifteen or twenty miles
above the Rapides. The Red river receives from the N. E. Side
lake Yae, which discharges itself by the rivers Rara and Mar-
teau. From the re-union of these branches, the river pursues a
tolerably well defined course to the Mississippi, losing its waters
by only two or three bayoux, and not forming any considerable
lakes. Bayou Boeuf, which is formed partly by a large stream
from the upland, and partly from the waters of Red river, may
he regarded as the boundary of the Red river alluvion in that
quarter.

In casting the eye over the map, it will be seen that a trian¬
gle is formed, of which bayou Boeuf is the base, and Red rivet*
and the Mississippi the two sides. It is in this triangle that
the largest body of low sunken lands, are to be found in the state,
particularly in the angle of Mississippi and Red river, and round,
the curious island of Avoyelle. From marks on the trees, it ap¬
peared to me that the land had been overflowed to the depth of
ten feet. The Avoyelle is a body of primitive ground, about thirty
miles in circumference, the growth similar to that of West Flo¬
rida, in the neighborhood of the Mississippi; the soil is not re¬
markably rich, but affords a handsome settlement. The Atcha-
faluya of Avoyelle, flows through the triangle, in a course paral¬
lel to the bayou Boeuf, and is without any settlement; the land
low. The lands on the bayou Boeuf, particularly on the upper
part of it, are amongst the best in the state, commonly of two
miles in width, covered with impenetrable thickets of cane;
the soil extremely rich, of a red color, similar to that on the At-
chafalaya of Red river. Of late years, several settlements have
been formed in this bayou, and the lands were growing into high
repute previous to the depreciation in the price of cotton. The
Ihnds on the Atchafalaya of Red river, are of nearly the same
quality, but do not possess the same depth.* There are still but
few settlers. Its navigation is interrupted by rafts and other ob*
structions.

The valley of Red river is susceptible of a very wealthy and
extensive population ; with the exception of the triangle before

*■ The grant of the United States, to the Marquis de la Fayette ftfte
been chiefly located on this bayou.

168 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA*

described, being but little subject to overflowing : the proportion
of sunken ground, is scarcely equal to the part which may be
cultivated, and the proportion altogether irreclaimable, is very
small. The best cotton of the United States is produced here*
and brings in market, generally, one cent more in the pound.-—
Tobacco and indigo are also amongst the articles of culture.
The principal settlements, are those of Natchitoches, bayou
JRapide, bayou Robert, bayou Boeuf, and Atchafalaya.

The greater part of the tract between the Atchafalaya, bayou
Plaquemine, and the Mississippi, is low and uninhabitable
land, of which no use can be made in its present state. The set¬
tlements of Pointe Coupee, West Baton Rouge, and Plaque*
mine, form trifling exceptions The route to the Attakapas and
Opelousas, usually taken by boats, is through the bayou
Plaquemine.

The last and the largest body of alluvion in the state, is en¬
closed by the bayou Plaquemine, Atchafalaya, a bayou which
makes out from it, (and forms the grand lake, connected with
the lac d’eau Sal6e,) the sea, and the Mississippi. This tract
is interspersed with a number of very large lakes, connected
with the sea. Bayou la Fourche and Atchalafaya pass through
it: the latter is lost in a variety of lakes and bayou x before it
inters the gulph. This land is rapidly gaining from the sea ;
the large lakes are shallow, and perceptibly filling up every
year, by the sediment of the Mississippi. There is some land
around them susceptible of being cultivated, but generally, there
is no habitable land on this tract, except on the bayou la Fourche*
and Mississippi. The bayou la Fourche is a beautiful natural ca¬
nal, admitting of settlements on its banks for eighty miles front
where it issues from the Mississippi. When the Mississippi is
high, it is about one hundred and fifty yards in width, its banks,
Ivhich rarely overflow, are guarded by a slight levee of two feet
high: it is free from obstructions the whole way to the gulph,
and there are said to be sixteen feet of water on the bar. For the
distance of sixty miles, a single horse might draw a large boat, so
clean and even are its banks. In riding along it, the idea of a mag¬
nificent artificial canal was continually occurring to my mind :
art cannot surpass it. The lands are in many places a mile and

169

BOUNDARIES, SURFACE, &c.— BOOK II.

on half in depth on both sides. It is supposed, that on this ba¬
you, and on others connected with it, there is twice as much ha¬
bitable land, as there is from its entrance, on both sides of the
Mississippi, to New Orleans. For nearly thirty miles down,
on each side, there appears a continual village, and it is tolera*
bly well settled for thirty miles further.

3. Attakapas and Opelousas .

Opelousas is separated from the Attakapas by bayou Fusil-
lier, which connects the Teche with the Vermillion, and is a
natural canal, which might with eafce be rendered navigable.— -
On the S. W. side of the Vermillion it is separated by the Ca-
raiicro, a stream which takes its rise in the prairies, and falls into
the Vermillion. The traveller, on approaching the Teche from
the Vermillion, easily discerns where the high primitive ground
gradually descends inter the lower prairies of the Attakapas.— .
These, I have already observed, are covered with a coarser ve¬
getation,. and are better wooded than those of the Opelousas,
but there is a much greater portion of them waste, and subject to
be drowned by rains, and are even sometimes inundated by the
Teche : the greater part is probably alluvion, at least for a mile
or two on the S. W. side, and the whole on the other. The soil
is extremely rich, though of a texture somewhat too close, lia¬
ble to bake and become hard and stiff Cotton is at present the
principal culture; the sugar-cane has been found to succeed as
well if not better than on the Mississippi. A number of planters,
of late, are turning their attention to it. Several cotton planters
of the Mississippi territory, have sold their plantations, and
commenced establishments on the Teche. On lake Tasse there
is a sugar establishment of some years standing, but this is the
only one which has yet been completed.

The Vermillion and the Teche are the principal rivers of the
Attakapas, neither of them formed by the refluent watersof other
rivers, but rising in the high prairies of the Opelousas; the
Vermillion in the neighborhood of the Opelousas church, and
the Teche considerably north of it. Their general courses are
nearly the same to the lake Tasse, where the Teche winds some¬
what east of south. Their channels are deep, the waters of a

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA,

dark color, and not reckoned very good for use. They are c bn-
nectecl by streams from the lake Tasse. Schooners and light
vessels may ascend in both as far as this place, from the Ver¬
million bay, or Berwick’s bay, into which these rivers are dis¬
charged. The Teche is a much larger and longer river than
the other, being upwards of two hundred miles in length. The
Tasse is a beautiful lake of clear water, about ten miles in cir¬
cumference ; there are plantations around it, on the eastern side,
the other is entirely bare of wood.

The principal settlements of the Attakapas are on each side
of the Teche (though mostly on the western,) and on the Ver¬
million. Besides the culture of cotton, maize, &c. they have
the advantage of those extensive natural meadows to support
their herds; from the mildness of the climate, little or no trou¬
ble is requisite to keep them. The inhabitants of the Attakapas
s\ve generally wealthy, and live as luxuriantly as the planters of
the Mississippi. It is not considered healthy, perhaps, less so
than on the coast of the Mississippi On the wiiole, it is destin¬
ed to become one of the richest districts of Louisiana.

The immense tract of open plains or meadows, "which composes
the Opelousas, boasts of advantages superior to all the riches
of the Teche or the Mississippi, in the salubrity of its air and
the beauty of its surface. Free from stagnant waters, with the
exception of a few ponds in the prairies, the atmosphere is not
poisoned by noxious vapours, and open to the breezes from the
. gulph, it enjoys a cool and refreshing temperature, while the
rest of the state is suffering from the effects of a close and sul¬
try air. Without fear of contradiction, I may pronounce the
Opelousas to be by far the most healthy part of the state. No¬
thing can be more beautiful and cheering to the traveller, than
the prospects and views which this country affords. There is
nothing wild or savage, yet the scenery is not tame or monoto¬
nous ; there is a sufficient variety and succession of those scenes,
which sooth the mind, or inspire with lively and pleasing emo¬
tions. I passed through them last May, when they appeared to
great advantage. The distance of my journey was forgotten
while I gazed with delight upon the waving surface of these
meadows, now covered with deep green, and of extent, in some

BOUNDARIES, SURFACE, &C.--BOOK II. 171

places bounded only by the horizon, in others by skirts of wood,
dimly appearing as in some distant isle of the sea; while a thou¬
sand brilliant and odoriferous flowers shed their perfume upon
the air. The plantations scattered along the water courses on
the outside of the fringe of wood, the vast herds of cattle roam¬
ing at random over the plains, complete the pleasing picture.

The settlements are entirely on the water courses, which
chequer this plain ; settlers turn their attention principally to
grazing, cotton is however cultivated to advantage. The num¬
ber of cattle composing the herds which some of the wealthier
possess, would in other parts of the United States, be consider¬
ed incredible ; there are several who mark from one to two thou¬
sand calves every year. The cattle driven to New Orleans for
salt, bring from fifteen to twenty dollars a head.

The Mentou is as large as the Teche, and falls into the gulph
considerably to the S. W. of it, as also does the Carcasou; on
both these rivers there are said to be considerable bodies of ha¬
bitable land. The Sabine, which constitutes the boundary in that
quarter, is a very considerable river, but is not at present sus¬
ceptible of navigation, on account of obstructions in its course.
The lands immediately in its neighborhood are good.

The route to the Opelousas and to the Attakapas, is either by
Plaquemine, as before mentioned, or by the ferry of la Fourche.
This is also the route in time of high water, to Rapide, or Natch¬
itoches, for persons going by land, I rode along the lower ba¬
you la Fourche about twenty-five miles, then crossed over to the
out-let of a small bayou, 15 or 20 feet wide, called the Canal,
from its having been somewhat improved by labor, and form¬
ing a convenient communication with the lakes, and the Teche:
following this bayou or canal about fifteen miles, I came to the
ferry kept by a German, who has the exclusive right from the
state, on condition of keeping suitable accommodations. Here
I embarked, in the evening, on a platform erected on two large
canoes, with a railing in the middle for the purpose of confining
our horses, and after passing through lake Platte, and several
other lakes and bayoux, landed about three o’clock next morn¬
ing, two miles up the Teche. The distance twenty-three miles.
Tfie night being pleasant, and no wind stirring, I had a pleasant

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

passage. The lakes are not more than three or four miles in
width, but the narrow bayoux connecting them are so numerous*
that it requires considerable experience not to lose the way. On
my return I was less fortunate; I found at the ferry several
persons who had been waiting for three days, the wind render¬
ing it useless to attempt to cross; their patience was by this
time totally exhausted, and it was determined to start, though the
wind had abated but little of its violence. With some difficulty
we reached Berwick’s bay. The wind here became too strung,
and we were compelled to put to shore on a little point of land
overgrown with palmettoes,* where we found two or three fish¬
ermen stretched before a little fire. The tide was up, the bank
of the lake not more than two feet high. These lakes are en¬
veloped in the most gloomy forests of oak, cypress and ash, up¬
on whose boughs the long moss,t or Spanish beard, is suspend¬
ed in enormous masses, almost shutting out the light from these
dreary spots, while underneath, there is an impenetrable thicket
of underwood, and smaller trees and vines. About 12 o’clock,
the wind having somewhat abated, we struck across the bay, but
before we could reach bayou Long, the approach of a storm,
which every moment threatened to burst upon us, compelled us
to put into one of the first bayoux which communicates with lake
Platte. We had scarcely reached the entrance, until it began,
to pour down torrents of rain, accompanied by incessant peals
of thunder. Without the slightest shelter except our great
coats, we found our situation extremely uncomfortable. About
day light we continued our voyage, opposed by wind and current,
the rain continuing with but little intermission until we arrived
on the other side, which was not until four in the evening, al-

* A plant very common in the lower part of Louisiana — the leaves
80 disposed as to bear a strung resemblance to a very large fern. It,
grows upon the more elevated spots of ground.

f I have often puzzled myself to find out some known object to which
the appearance of this curious production might be compared Cha¬
teaubriand compares them to enormous ghosts! The best I can think
of, is to the shattered sails of a ship, after a storm, the canvass hanging
4o\yn in a thousand ragged shreds.

BOUNDARIES, SURFACE, &c. — BOOK II. 173

most exhausted, having been compelled to stand up the greater
part of the time, and chilled to the very heart. Here the atten¬
tion and kindness of the good people, soon made us forget what
we had endured, or remembered only to felicitate ourselves on
its having passed. These accidents do not frequently occur.

4. Settlements of La Fourche — Coast of the Mississippi—*
Fausse riviere .

The settlers of La Fourche, are chiefly what the French call,
petits habitants , small planters, and are therefore, more numer¬
ous than on the coast, for it requires many cottages to make one
chateau. There are however, some extensive establishments.
Lands have risen here in price, since they have grown in de*
mand for sugar plantations, and many of the petits habitants
bought out. The settlers from the Canal, up to the mouth of
the Fourche, are principally of Spanish origin, and speak but lit¬
tle French. They are a poor and miserable population; seem
lazy and careless, and are destitute of those little comforts, and
that neatness, which are found in the cottage of the poorest
French creole.

The most pleasant part of Louisiana, when we take into con¬
sideration the comforts and conveniences of life, is that which is
called the Coast, and proves to us what may be done by the art
and industry of man, even in those parts which nature has left
rude and unsightly. It affords one of the strongest arguments
in favor of civilization, and ought to go far in reconciling the
philanthropic mind to the circumstance of the present inhabit¬
ants, having shoved off the pitiable, careless race, who first pos¬
sessed it. Would it be too much to say, that this improvement
and cultivation of the face of nature, was the condition on which
the Creator gave to the human race the lordship of the earth l
Even the garden of Eden required the fostering care of Adam
£nd his partner :

a On to their morning’s rural work they haste,

Among sweet dews and flow’rs ; where any tow

174

VIEWS OP LOUISIANA.

Of fruit-trees over-woody reach’d too far
Their pamper’d boughs,” - 8tc.

The borders of the Mississippi in their natural state, are far
from being agreeable to the eye ; we. see only gloomy forests,
close thickets of underwood and reeds, putrescent trunks of
trees, and the ragged banks heaped up with the sweepings of
the upper country, and the sides of the river filled with saw¬
yers and planters. In lieu of these deformities, we generally
find clean, smooth banks, a stream unobstructed by these impe¬
diments, its encroachments restrained, and delightful plantations
and dwellings every where appearing. The Coast may be said
to begin at Pointe Coupee. From this to La Fourche, two-thirds
of the banks are perfectly cleared and highly cultivated: from
thence to N. Orleans, distance of near 100 miles, the settlements,
continue without interruption on both sides, and present the ap¬
pearance of a continued village. I was enchanted with the magni¬
ficence of the scene, as I floated down the majestic river in Dec.
1811. The continued succession of plantations laid off* with reg¬
ularity and taste ; the various useful and ornamental trees, the fig,
peccane, ever green oak, laurels, pine, weeping willow, See The
delightful groves of Orange trees, bending under the weight of
their golden fruit, to one, just from the dreary solitudes of the
^Missouri, or the rude wilds of Upper Louisiana, were objects
indescribably pleasing. I could have believed that l was wit¬
nessing those paradisiacal scenes of which I have sometimes
dreamed ; but one or two reflections which intruded themselves,
Unwelcome and unbidden guests, soon caused me to view the
fair profusion,” with other sensations. The earth which bears
these ornaments has been moistened by the tears of hundreds
who labor to support,

“ A haughty lordling’s pride

in the midst of these rich gifts which seem to invite to enjoy¬
ment and delight, there lurks poison, disease, and death ! Alas,
how wretched is the poor wanderer deceived, whose thoughts
are bent on discovering on this earth, some spot, possessing jn

LEVEES. —BOOK II,

!ty$

much higher degree than any other, the streams of happiness,
and of pleasure unalloyed ! a nearer approach dispels what the
distant prospect had promised, and he is at length taught by ex¬
perience, that the gifts of heaven are equally dispensed, at least
that it is not in this world we are to expect a paradise.

The dwellings on the Coast are generally frame, of one sto¬
ry in height, but there are many constructed with tolerable ele¬
gance. The sugar houses, on either side, at intervals consider¬
ably distant, were easily distinguished, by the vafct columns of
smoke which they sent up into the air. Within thirty or forty
miles'of the city there are but few of the fie tits habitants , the
lands being engrossed by the wealthy planters : this is continu¬
ally progressing downwards, and the disproportion of the whites
to the blacks of course increasing. Below the place, where the
insurrection commenced in 18 1 1, to the city, the distance of
thirty miles, there is scarcely one white person to twenty blacks.
When the lands on the coast shall be principally occupied by
the larger planters, which will be the case at no distant period,
it will be found absolutely necessary to station an armed force
at intervals, as far up as Pointe Couple.

The settlements of Fausse riviere, on the old bed of the riv¬
er, behind Pointe Coupee, is considered one of the wealthiest in
the state. In high water, Fausse riviere, is filled from the Mis¬
sissippi, and is as wide as that river; after the flood subsides,
the water in this place stagnates, and the settlement is render¬
ed unhealthy. The banks are high, and there is greater safety
from inundation and the breaking of the levee than on the Mis¬
sissippi.

LEVEES.

IT may be thought that 1 have represented this country, In
slime respects, in too favorable a light : that I have endeavored
to represent the difficulties which oppose themselves to its im¬
provement, as less considerable than they really are. Certainly
those difficulties are many and great, and when contemplated,
without reflecting on what man can effect, they appear insur¬
mountable; but when we examine what he has done m other

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

A7S

parts of the world, it must be acknowledged that but few i'ui4
possibilities present the mselves in the improvement of this
country. Time, and a numerous population, are doubtless, re*
quisite, but the advantages which offer themselves, will render
it no less certain The soil of Louisiana is the most fertile in
the world, the climate delightful during nine months of the
year, and bad the remainder, only from being irreclaimed ; its
productions are of the most valuable kind, and its geographical
position, superior, perhaps to that of any part of America*
These considerations will combine to raise the lands of Louisi¬
ana to their highest value, sooner than in other sections of the
union, where the lands being more than sufficient to support ten
times the present population, and the productions every where
much alike, it is not likely that the inhabitants will soon be com¬
pelled to resort to the thousand arts, by which every acre in the
populous parts of the -old world is forced to bring something.
In Louisiana, the value of its productions, the amazing fertility
of its soil, with its other advantages, will cause these arts to be
resorted to much sooner. Still many years must pass away be¬
fore we can expect to become sufficiently acquainted with this
country, or before the different means can be discovered of redu¬
cing it to subjection ; this must be the result of long experience
and observation. It will be reduced to a science, all the inventions
of the old world for similar purposes will be put in requisition,
and new ones adapted to the peculiarities of the country will be
fallen upon. But it is the gift of man to subdue and govern the
earth, and when we have seen him not only place it under his
subjection, but even raise for himself a dominion out of the ele¬
ment of storms, where shall we set bounds to Lis labors and in¬
genuity?

The most considerable work of art yet constructed for the
purpose of rendering this country haoitable, is the embankment
of the river, usually called the levee. We should oe much de¬
ceived if we were to form an idea of this from the dykes of Hol¬
land or the embankments of the Nile. The le vees are common¬
ly constructed in the following manner. At the distance of thir¬
ty or forty yards from the natural bank, a mound of earth is rais¬
ed', varying from four to six feet high, and usually from six to

LEVEES.— BOOK II. ITT

iune feet at the base, with sufficient width at the top for a foot
path. A close stiff clay, common on the lower parts of the river,
is preferred. Sods are placed on the sides and at the top, and
cypress slabs are often put in the inside for the purpose of pre¬
venting the water, where there is any current, from eating away
the fearth. There is a ditch for the purpose of draining off the
water which oozes through. The road lies between the levee
and the fences, and is crossed at intervals by drains, covered
With plank* as the sewers of a city, for the purpose of carrying
off the water to the swamps. An immense quantity of water
finds its way through the embankment, mostly through holes
made by crawfish, which sometimes increase so rapidly, as to
effect a breach. Several years are necessary for the levee to be¬
come perfectly solid and firm, previous to this, it is liable to be
injured by fains. .The levee pursues a zig-zag course, to suit
the different curves and indentations of the river, as well as the
sinuosities, for it being too slight a work to compel the river to
hold its course, it must yield to its caprice. As the fiver en¬
croaches upon it, or recedes, another levee is constructed near¬
er the river, or behind the first; from which circumstances,
there are in many places double levees. A person standing in¬
side of the levee in a very high flood, appears to stand below the
surface of the Water ; but there are in few places more than
two or three feet against the levee, the ground between it and
the river being mttch higher thah On the inside ; this may be ac¬
counted for, ffom the quantity of sediment deposited, and the
Wearing down of the road. There are besides, other inodes of
constructing the levee* and the expense and size depends upon
the resistance necessary, which in some places, generally in
bends, is much greater than in others. What is considered a
good levee, may almost any where be made for four hundred
dolls, per mile. Eyery individual is obliged to keep up the levee
in front of his own land, and before the time of high waters it is
inspected by commissioners appointed for the purpose in each
parish, and if found insufficient, it is made at his expense. But
this is by no means adequate to the purpose, for during the sea¬
son of great floods, the levees require constant attention, they
must be continually watched, and all hands are sometimes drawn

17$ VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

from the fields to attend them for whole days and nights. Where
the levee happens not to be sufficiently high, earth must be added;
where it appears to crumble in, slabs must be placed to protect
it; where rains have rendered it spongy and loose, every appear¬
ance of a hole made by crawfish must be watched and filled up.
Hence, it often occurs, that from the weakness or negligence of
some individual, both he and his neighbors are ruined.

' It has often been a matter of surprise to me that works upon
which so much depend, should be constructed in a manner so
rude and trifling. A few moments are sufficient to destroy the
labor and industry of twenty years- It was remarked, that the
steam boat in high water, under way, might with ease pass over
the levee ; I was never more struck with the infant state of im¬
provements in this country, and the want of public spirit, than in
viewing the work upon which the Louisianian depends for the
security of his all: a prodigious volume of water rolling over
his head, prevented only by a slight mound of earth from over¬
whelming him and all he possesses. But he does not sleep
soundly. In 1811,* in the season of high water, for six weeks the
coast presented a scene of continual anxiety and apprehension;
the hands withdrawn from the fields, and kept watching day and
night, arid adding to their breastwork as the river rose. If the
expense, labor, loss of time, and the destruction of property,
were estimated and formed into a general fund, it would have
been sufficient to have erected a work capable of withstanding
the highest flood, and rendered them perfectly secure for the
future'. If in the season of high water, the least storm of wind
were to arise, there are scarcely any of the present levees which
would not give way and the whole country be laid under water.
But until the season comes the danger is not feared, and noth¬
ing is done until it is too late ; those who escape resolve to be
prepared for the next year, but this is soon forgotten. Last year
(1812) the water rose much less than in ordinary years, and
scarcely passed over the banks, yet at this time, a storm of wind

* This was still more the case in the present year 1813, the water
rose higher than in 1811, by six or eight inches, and had they not been
somewhat prepared by the former season, they must have been totally
destroyed.

LEVEES.— BOOK II.

3r9

which continued more than a day, made several breaches in
the levee, doing much injury to the plantations. Had that
storm occurred at the same season the ycfcir before, the Whole
country wouid have been under water. A gentleman iiifdrm-
cd me that he witnessed a storm that seasdn, but Which lasted
only fifteen minutes; yet the effects Which it thi'eatened seem¬
ed to produce an universal panic; mati, wdmUn, tiiid Child, in¬
voluntarily ran to the levee as it were to support it with their
hands.

The Mississippi in its natural state, at least for one hundred
and fifty miles above New Oiieahs, overflows its banks, com -
inunibus annis , from two to three feet, and the descent to the
swamps is very rapid, perhaps not less than four feet a riiile.
Even in this state, it must flow over its banks with great velo¬
city; but the artificial embankments, by enclosing its waters,
cause them to rise from two to three feet higher. The natural
fall of the river itself, scarcely exceeds one foot per !iiiile: we
may now easily conceive the velocity -of a sheet of Water tv hose
current is thus suddenly increased to five or six feet per mile.
It rushes from the river with indescribable impetuosity, with a
noise like the roaring of a cataract, boiling and foaming, and
tearing every thing before it. To one who has not seen this
country it is almost impossible to convey any idea of the terrors
excited by a crevasse or breaking of the levee. Like the break -
, ing out of fire in a town, where no one knoWs when his own
dwelling may be assailed, it excites universal consternation ;
every employment is abandoned for miles above and below, and
all hasten to the spot, where every exertion is made day and
night to stop the breach, which is sometimes SO'cbessful, but
more frequently, the hostile element is suffered to take its
course.* The consequences are, the destruction of the croji, the

* There are various modes of stopping a crevasse, the most common
is the following; they begin on each side of the crevasse , to drife dou¬
ble rows of piles gradually falling with the current so as to meet less re¬
sistance, until they unite, and thus form a semicircle like a fish basket ;
in the next place the piles are interwoven with small branches, or slabs
placed lengthwise between .them ; branches of trees are then placed
behind the piles, and some heavier materials, logs, &c. against them : if

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

iso

buildings, and sometimes the land itself is much injured where
the current rushed over, carrying away the soil, or leaving nu<
merous logs and trees drawn into the vortex as they floated down
the river; these must be destroyed before the land can again be
cultivated. The effects of a breach of the levee are even more
desolating than those of fire.

Though not ambitious of the reputation of a projector, I can¬
not refrain from expressing the following notions on the mode
which ought to be pursued. It strikes me that this, as is the
case with every great public work in the United States, should
be resigned to a company organized for the purpose, who might
draw a henefit from the undertaking, and at the s^me time be res-
ponsible to the individual for the injury which he sustains. When
we see the enormous expense in constructing turnpikes for the
purpose of facilitating the transportation of goods and for travel¬
ling) it would b® 00 great exertion pf public spirit, for people to
go to the same expense in securing not only those objects, but
their all . One hundred thousand dollars would make the levee
twenty feet wide at the base, and ten feet at the top from New
Orleans, on the east side, to Baton Rouge; the expenses then
would not be greater than in keeping a turnpike road in repair,
The travelling up and down the coast is as great as on any of
pur turnpikes, and the tolls would yield as much. There is no
planter on the coast who would not pay two dollars per acre
front per annum, to be exempt from the labor of keeping up
his Jevee, and for the security fie would gain from one made
on such a scale. It is a fact, there is not a planter on the Mis¬
sissippi, whose plantation might not be ruined in half an hour,
and perhaps Jess time by some villain, wicked enpugh to do it :
he would only have to make a breach in the levee, which the cur¬
rent would soon widen sufficiently fpr his purpose. Centinels
during the highest stage of water, are continually walking on
the Jevees, as wejl to prevent such attempts, as to watch apy in¬
roads of the water.

they can succeed this far, earth is then thrown upon the whole, and tfcu§
a, new levee formed. As a preventative where the lev^e appears to be
about giving away, coffer dams are erected.

ANTIQUITIES. — BOOK IE

181

It would be adviseable to leave at intervals, openings in the le-
^»ee, properly secured on each side, like the sluices of the saw
mills, in order to let off the water of the river. An immense
quantity escapes through the present levees. In proportion as
the levees extend upwards, and those below be come properly
secured, so as to prevent much of the water from escaping, they
must be raised. A vast body of water at the present time pas¬
ses off in those places, where there are no embankments ; if this
were kept in, the levees would every where require to be seve¬
ral feet higher. Artificial drains at proper distances might in a
great measure obviate this difficulty, But not having leisure
for these speculations, I leave them to others, who are otherwise
interested, than as general well-wishers for the prosperity of the
country.

CHAPTER X.

ANTIQUITIES IN THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

SI QUIP NOVISTI RECTIUS ISTIS, CANDIDUS 1MPERTI, SI NON, HIS
UTERE MECUM.

CONSIDERABLE curiosity has been excited by appear¬
ances on the Mississippi ahd its tributary waters, supposed to
prove a more ancient and advanced population, than the state of
the country, or the character of the tribes inhabiting it, when
first visited by Europeans, would seem to indicate. I need
make no apology for devoting a chapter to a subject, which has
been dignified by the pens of Mr. Jefferson, Dr. Barton, and
a Bishpp Madison. Yet, with all possible deference to these
respectable names, I cannot but think their theories founded
on a very imperfect acquaintance with these remains: having
never themselves, visited any but the least considerable, and but
few having been described by others with accuracy. The sub¬
ject is still new, and I know of none which opens a wider fiel4 for
interesting and amusing speculation.

1 M

VIEWS OF "LOUISIANA.

Many, without considering the astonishing number and vari¬
ety of these remains, have attributed them to a colony of Welshf
or Danes, who are supposed to have found their way by some
accident to this country, about the ninth century. Without re¬
curring to the reasoning of doctor Robertson against the proba¬
bility of such a colony, I will observe, that it is absolutely impos¬
sible that they could have gained such a footing as these vesti¬
ges indicate, without at the same tim'e, leaving others less equi¬
vocal. Excepting a wall said to be discovered in North Caro¬
lina, but which, on examination, proved to be a volcanic produc¬
tion, I have not heard of a single work ot brick or stone north of
Mexico. The fortifications in the western country are devoid
of those marks which have characterised the European mode of
fortifying almost time immemorial ; they are mere enclosures,
without angles or bastions, and seldom surrounded by a ditch.
The place is usually such as convenience would dictate, or as
is best adapted to the ground : two miles below Pittsburgh, on a
kind of promontory called McKee’s Rocks, nearly inaccessible
on three sides, there is a fortification formed by a single line on
“The land side. They are sometimes, it is true, laid off with reg¬
ularity, in the form of a parallelogram, semicircle, or square,
but most commonly they are irregular.

We are often tempted by a fondness for the marvellous, to
seek out remote and improbable causes, for that which may be
explained by the most obvious. In the eagerness 'to prove the
existence of the Welsh colony, by attributing to them these re¬
mains, we forget that the natives of the country when first dis¬
covered by Europeans, were universally in the habit of fortify¬
ing In the early, wars of the New England colonists with the
Indians, we are informed, that Philip, chief of the Niphet tribe,
defended himself in a fort which he had constructed, and suffi¬
ciently large to contain two thousand men, Charlevoix, du Pratz,
and others, relate the particulars of several sieges. A fortifica¬
tion is one of the first things that would naturally suggest itself
in a war : they have been known to all people ; the same mind
which would invent means of protection for the person of a sin¬
gle individual, would also devise the means of security to large
bodies of men. It is no difficult matter to account for the dis-

ANTIQUITIES. — BOOK II.

is.:

use of fortifications amongst the Indians, when we consider the
incredible diminution of their numbers, and the little use of
their iorts against the whites; yet in the two last sieges of mons.
Perier, in the war of the Natchez (1729), that unfortunate peo¬
ple, were able to withstand the approaches and cannon of the
enemy for nearly two months. Imlay, in his fanciful description
of Kentucky, asserts, that the Indians were not acquainted with
the use of fortifications. Carver is the first who notices these
fortifications, and considers them as beyond the ingenuity of the
Indians. The French writers, who most probably observed them,
do not speak of them, a proof that they had no doubt as to their
origin, nor thought of attributing them to any others than the
natives of the country. On my voyage up the Missouri, I ob¬
served the ruins of several villages which had been abandoned
twenty or thirty years, and which, in every respect resembled
the vestiges on the Ohio and Mississippi. On my arrival at the
Arikara and Mandan villages, I found them surrounded by pa¬
lisades. I have supposed these vestiges to be nothing more than
the sites of pallisadoed towns or villages, and not mere forti¬
fications. This custom of pallisadoing, appears to have been ge¬
neral among the northern tribes ; it is mentioned by the earliest
travellers. In the library of New Orleans, I found two works at
present out of print, which contributed in removing all doubt
from my mind ; the one is by Lupiteau, a learned Jesuit, and
which is sometimes quoted by Dr. Robertson, the other is a sin-
gular mixture of fable and fact, by one La Hojkon, published
1678, before the discovery of the Mississippi in its full extent.
This writer pretends to have travelled on the part which is a-
bove the Missouri. Roth these works contain a number of cu¬
rious engravings, in which, amongst other things, the fortified
towns are represented.

That no Welsh nation exists at present on this continent, is,
beyond a doubt. Dr. Barton has taken great pains to ascertain
the languages spoken by those tribes, east of the Mississippi,
and the Welsh finds no place amongst them ; since the cession
of Louisiana, the tribes west of the Mississippi have been suffi¬
ciently known ; we have had intercourse with them all, but no
Welsh are yet found. In the year 1798, a young Welshman of

184

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA

the name of Evans, ascended the Missouri, in company with
Makey, and remained two years in that country ; he spoke both
the ancient and modern Welsh, and addressed himself to every
nation between that river and New Spain, but found no Welsh¬
men. When we reflect upon the difficulties that such a colony
would have to encounter amidst ferocious savages, is it proba¬
ble, that isolated and unassisted, they could have been able to ex¬
ist? The history of all the European establishments, inform us,
that they were opposed by the natives with great ferocity. The
Welsh would certainly either form considerable establishments,
or be totally annihilated; to exist in a distinct and separate tribe',
without preserving any of their arts, and without gaining a supe¬
riority over the Indians, but on the contrary adopting their man¬
ners, is absolutely impossible.

Besides the fortifications, there are other remains scattered
throughout the western country, much more difficult to account
for, and to which the Welsh can lay no claim It is worthy of
observation, that all these vestiges invariably occupy the most
eligible situations for towns or settlements ; and on the Ohio
•and Mississippi, they are most numerous and considerable
There is not a rising town or a farm of an eligible situation, in
whose vicinity some of them may not be found. I have heard a
surveyor of the public lands observe, that Wherever any of these
remains were met with, he was sure to find ah extensive body
tif fertile land. An immense population has once been support¬
ed in this country. These vestiges may be classed Under three
different heads — l, the walled towns or fortifications, of which
have already spoken ; 2, barrows, or places of interment ; 3',
mounds or pyramids.

2. Barrows, such as described by Mr. Jefferson, are extreme*
ly numerous in every part of the western country. The traces
©f a village may be always found near them, and they have been
Used exclusively, as places of interment, at least of deposit for
the dead. The height is usually eight or ten feet above the sur¬
rounding ground, the shape manifesting little or no design.—
These accumulations may be attributed to the custom prevalent
Amongst the American tribes, of collecting the bones of such as
~&xpif$;d at a distance, from their homes, in battle, or otherwise,

Antiquities.— book n.

185

and at stated periods placing them in some common tomb. The
barrows were not the only receptacles; caverns were also used,
and places, which, from being extraordinary, were considered
the residence of Manatoos or spirits.

3. The mounds or pyramids appear to me to belong to a
period different from the others. They are much more ancient,
and are easily distinguished from the barrows, by their size and
the design which they manifest. Remains of palisadoed towns
are found in their vicinity, which may be accounted for from the
circumstance of the mounds occupying the most eligible situa¬
tions for villages, or from the veneration of the Indians, for
whatever appears extraordinary. From the growth of trees on
some of them, they show an antiquity of at least several hundred
years. The Indians have no tradition as to the founders of them,
though there is no doubt but that when we first became ac¬
quainted With those people, they were used as places of defence.
The old chief of the Kaskaskia Indians, told Mr. Rice Jones,
that in the wars of his nation with the Iroquois, the mounds in
the American bottom were used as fortSi In one of the plates
of Lapiteau*s work, there is a representation of an attack on an
Indian fort, which is evidently constructed upon one of the
mounds: its form is circular, the enclosure of large pickets, and
heavy beams on the outside, extending to the ground on which
the mound stands. Those inside defend themselves with stones,
arrows, &c. while the assailants are either aiming their arrows
at such as appear above the wall, or endeavoring to set fire to
the fort. Until I saw this engraving, I had frequently doubted
whether these elevations of earth were intended for any other
purpose than places of interment for their great chiefs, or as
sites for temples. These were probably the first objects, but
experience, at the Same time, taught them that they might also
answer as forts ; perhaps the veneration for these sacred places
might induce the Indians, when invaded, to make their final
stand in their temples, which therefore became strong holds.—
This is conformable to the history of most nations of the world.

186

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA,

The mounds at Grave creek and Marietta have been mi¬
nutely described, but in point of magnitude they fail tar short
of others which7! bare seen.

To form a more correct idea of these, it will be necessary
to give the reader some view of the tract of country in which
they are situated. The American bottom , is a tract of rich allu¬
vion land, extending on the Mississippi, from the Kaskaskia to
the Gahokia river, about eighty miles m length, and five in
breadth; several handsome streams meander through it; the
soil Of the richest kind, and but little subject to the effects of the
-Mississippi floods. A number of lakes are interspersed through
It, with high and fine banks; these abound in fish, and in the au¬
tumn are visited by millions of wild fowl. There is. perhaps,
no spot in the western country, capable of being more highly
cultivated, or of giving support to a more numerous population
than this valley. If any vestige of ancient population were to
be found, this would be the place to search for it — according¬
ly, this tract, as also the bank of the river on the western side,*
exhibits proofs of an immense population. If the city of Phila¬
delphia and its environs, were desenecl, there would not be
more numerous traces of human existence. The great number
of mounds, and the astonishing quantity of human bones, every
where dug up, or found on the surface of the ground, with a
thousand other appearances, announce that this valley was at one
period, filled with habitations and villages. The whole face
of the bluff, or hill which bounds it to the east, appears to have
been a continued burial ground.

But the most remarkable appearances, are two groupes of
mounds or pyramids, the one about ten miles above. Gahokia,
the other nearly the same distance below it, which in all, exceed
one hundred and fifty, of various sizes. The western side, also,
contains a considerable number.

A more minute description of those above Gahokia, . which I
visited in the fall of 181 1, will give a tolerable idea of them all.

* The Saline, below St. Genevieve, cleared out some time ago, and
deepened, was found to contain wagon loads of earthen ware, some
fragments bespeaking vessels as large as a barrel, and proving that the
^alines had been worked before they were known to the whites.

ANTIQUITIES. — BOOK II.

187

I crossed the Mississippi at St. Louis, and after passing
through the wood which borders the river, about half a mute in
width, entered an extensive open plain. In \5 minutes, I found
myself in the midst of a group of mounds, mosty of a circular
shape, and at adistance, resembling enormousiiay stacks scatter-,
ed through a meadow. One of the largest which I ascended, was
about two hundred paces in circumference at the bottom, the
form nearly square, though it had evidently under gone 'consider*
able alteration from the washing of the rains. The top was le¬
vel, with an area sufficient to contain several hundred men.

The prospeot from this mound is very beautiful; looking to*
wards the bluffs, which are dimly seen at the distance of six or
eight miles, the bottom at this place being very wide, I had a
level plain before me, varied by islets of wood, and a few solita¬
ry trees ; to the right, the prairie is bounded by the horizon, to
the left, the course of the Cahokia may be distinguished by the
margin of wood upon its banks, and crossing the valley diagon¬
ally, S. S. W. Around me, I counted forty-live mounds, or
pyramids, besides a great number of small artificial elevations;
these mounds form something more than a semicircle, about n
mile in extent, the open space on the river.

Pursuing ray walk along the bank of the Cahokia, I passed
eight others in the distance of three miles, before I arrived at
the largest assemblage. When I reached Ithe foot of the princi¬
pal mound, 1 was struck with a degree of astonishment, not un¬
like that which is experienced in contemplating the Egyptian
pyramids. What a stupendous pile of earth ! To heap up such
a mass must have required years, and the labors of thousands.-- ~
It stands immediately on the bank of the Cahokia, and on the
side next it, is covered with lofty trees. Were it not for the re¬
gularity and design which it manifests, the circumstances of its
being on alluvial ground, and the other mounds scattered around
it, we could scarcely believe it the work of human hands —
The shape is that of a parallelogram, standing from north to
south ; on the south side there is a broad apron or step, about
• half way down, and from this, another projection into the plain

|88

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

about fifteen feet wide, which was probably intended as an ascent
to the mound. By stepping round the base I computed the cir¬
cumference to be at least eight hundred yards, and the height of
the mound about ninety feet. The step, or apron, has been used
as a kitchen garden, by the monks of La Trappe, settled near
this, and the top is sowed with wheat. Nearly west there is ano¬
ther of a smaller size, and forty others scattered through the
plain. Two are also seen on the bluff, at the distance of three
miles. Several of these mounds are almost conical. As the
sward had been burnt, the earth was perfectly naked, and I could
trace with (ease, any unevenness of surface, so as to discover
whether it was artificial or accidental. I every where observed
a great number of small elevations of earth, to the height of a
few feet, at regular distances from each other, and which ap¬
peared to observe some order ; near them I also observed pieces
of flint, and fragments of earthen vessels. I concluded, that a
very populous town had once existed here, similar to those of
^Mexico, described by the first conquerors. The mounds were
sites of temples, or monuments to the great men. It is evi¬
dent, this could never have been the work of thinly scattered
tribes. If the human species had at any time heen permitted
in this country to have increased freely, and there is every pro¬
bability of the fact, it must, as in Mexico, have become astonish¬
ingly numerous. The same space of ground would have suf¬
ficed tp maintain fifty times the number of the present inhabi¬
tants, with ease ; their agriculture having no other object than
mere sustenance. Amongst a numerous population, the power
of the chief must necessarily be more absolute, and where there
are no laws, degenerates into despotism. This was the case in
Mexico, and in the nations of South America ; a great number
of individuals were at the disposal of the chief, who treated them
little better than slaves. The smaller the society, the greater
the consequence of each individual. Hence, there would not
be wanting a sufficient number of hands to erect mounds or
pyramids.

Hunter and Dunbar describe a mound at the junction of the
Catahoula, Washita and Tensa rivers, very similar in shape to

ANTIQUITIES, — BOOK II.

189

the large one on the Cahokia. I saw it last summer: it has a step
or apron, and is surrounded by a group of ten or twelve other
mounds of a smaller size. In the vicinity of New Madrid,
there are a number; one on the bank of a lake, is at least four
hundred yards in circumference, and surrounded by a ditch at
least ten feet wide, and at present, five feet deep ; it is about for¬
ty feet in height, and level on the top. I have frequently ex¬
amined the mounds at St. Louis: they are situated on the se¬
cond bank just above the town, and disposed in a singular man¬
ner; there are nine in all, and form three sides of a parallelo¬
gram, the open side towards the country, being protected, how¬
ever, by three smaller mounds, placed in a circular manner. The
space enclosed is about four hundred yards in length, and two
hundred in breadth. About six hundred yards above there is a
single mound, with a broad stage on the river side ; it is thirty
feet in height, and one hundred and fifty in length ; the top is a
mere ridge of five or six feet wide. Below the first mounds
there is a curious work, called the Falling Garden. Advantage
is taken of the second bank, nearly fifty feet in height at this
place, and three regular stages or steps, are formed by earth
brought from a distance. This work is much admired — it sug¬
gests the idea of a place of assembly for the purpose of coun¬
selling, on public occasions. The following diagram may con¬
vey a more precise idea.

A — The three sides of a
parallelogram.

B— The single mound.

C — The Falling-garden.

In tracing the origin of institutions or inventions amongst
men, we are apt to forget, that nations, however diversified by
manners and languages, are yet of the same species, and that the
same institutions may originate amongst twenty different people.
Adair takes great pains to prove a similarity of customs between

199 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.,

the American tribes and the Jews,; Lapiteau shews the existence
of a still greater number common to the Greeks and Romans , thq
result to the philosophic mind is no more than this, that the A-
merican tribes belong to the human race, and that men, without
any intercourse with each other, will, in innumerable instances,
fall upon the same mode of acting. The wonder would be, that
they should not shew a resemblance. Man is every where found
in societies, under governments, addicted to war, hunting, or ag¬
riculture, and fond of dances, shows, and distinction. Perhaps
tht first employment of a numerous population when not en¬
gaged in war, would be in heaping up piles of earth, the rudest
and most common species of human labor. We find these
mounds in every part of the globe ; in the north of Europe, and
in Great Britain, they are numerous, and much resemble ours,
but less considerable. The pyramids of Egypt are perhaps the
oldest monuments of human labor in that country, so favorable
to the production of a numerous population. The pyramids of
Mexico, which are but little known, and yet scarcely less con¬
siderable, like tiiose ot Egypt have there origin hid in the night
of oblivion. Humboldt is of opinion, that a these edifices must
be classed with the pyramidal monuments of Asia, of which
traces were found even in Arcadia ; for the conical mausoleum
of Caliistus was a true tumulus, covered with fruit trees, and
served for a base to a small temple consecrated to Diana.” The
Greeks, who were successful in the chariot races at tne Olym¬
pic games, to shew their gratitude to their horses, gave them
an honorable burial, and even erected pyramids over their graves.
The great.altar of Jupiter,, at Olympia, was nothing more than a
huge mound of -earth, with stone steps to ascend. Humboldt* re¬
marks with astonishment, the striking similarity of the Asiatic
and Egyptian pyramids, to those of Mexico, The similarity of
those which he describes, to the mounds or pyramids on the Mis!)
sissippi, is still more striking, but not a matter of so much won¬
der. The only difference is, that a few of the Mexican pyramids
are larger, and some appear to have been faced with stone or

See Appendix, No. I.

ANTIQUITIES.— BOOK II.

191

brick. Like those oi Mexico, wherever there has been a consid¬
erable town, we find two large pyramids, supposed to represent
the sun and moon, and a number of smaller ones, to represent the
stars. There is very little doubt but that they originated with the
same people, for they may be considered as existing in the same
country. What is the distance between Red river and the north¬
ern part of the intendancy of Vera Cruz, in whi ;h the pyramid of
Papantla is situated ? little more than ten or fifteen days journey.
Even supposing there were no mounds in the intermediate
space, the distance is not such, as to preclude the probability of
intercourse. There is no obstruction in the way; a coach and
four has been driven from Mexico to Nacogdoches.

The Mexican histories give uncertain accounts of the origin
of those works, nor are the antiquarians able to form any satis¬
factory hypothesis. They are attributed by some to the Toul-
tec nation, as far back as the ninth century, who emigrated to
Mexico from the north, perhaps from the banks of the Missis¬
sippi; and by others, to the Olmec nation, still more ancient,
who came to Mexico from the east. A curious discovery, made
a few years ago in the state of Tennessee, proves beyond a
doubt, that at some remote period the valley of the Mississippi
had been inhabited by a much more civilized people, than when
first known to us. Two human bodies were found in a coppe¬
ras cave, in a surprising state of preservation. They were first
w raped up in a kind of blanket, supposed to have been manu¬
factured of the lint of nettles, afterwards with dressed skins, and
then a mat of nearly sixty yards in length. They were clad in
a beautiful cloth, interwoven with feathers, such as was manu¬
factured by the Mexicans. Tne flesh had become hard, but the
features were well preserved. They had been h re, perhaps,
for centuries, and certainly were of a different race from the
modern Indians. They might have belonged to the Olmec, who
overran Mexico about the seventh century, to the Toultec. who
came centuries afterwards, or to the Aztecs, who founded the
great city of Mexico, in the thirteenth century.

These subjects can only bewilder; every nation, in tracing
back its history, must finally lose itself in fable. The Aztec
(Mexican) mode of preserving their chronicles, must ne^essa-

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

i’ily have been defective ; the Egyptians could lay but little better
claim to authenticity. The simple fact of the emigration to the
country of the Oimecs, or Touitecs, may be relied on, but as to
the time and circumstances, we must look for very slender ac¬
counts. It is only since the invention of letters that we can form
a well grounded hope of the permanency of human institutions,
of the certainty of history, and of the uninterrupted progress of
improvements. Had this noble invention been unknown, how
many of our most useful arts would have been lost during that
night of barbarism, called the dark ages!

A French writer has fancifully observed, that civilization
arises, de la fermentation dune nombreUse peupiade , and that it
would be as idle to expect this result without a numerous po¬
pulation, as to think of making wine by the fermentation of a
■single grape. Experience shews, that a numerous population
will always be attended with some degree of improvement, be¬
cause, as Mr. Jefferson observes, the chances of improvement
are multiplied. It is not without reason, that the Creator gave
his command to increase and multiply, since many of the intel¬
lectual faculties would noi otherwise be completely unfold¬
ed. It is not every country, however, which can of itself attain
the full extent of the population of which it may be rendered
susceptible. In unfriendly soils and climates, nature must be
forced by the arts and labors of agriculture, to afford sustenance
for a numerous population. The inhabitants of such have there¬
fore been usually found in wandering tribes, engaged in con¬
stant Wars, and probably unable ever to originate their own ci¬
vilization. A mighty warrior, at the head of his own tribe,
might subdue the tribes around him, and form a little empire,
and peace being secured to a great proportion of his subjects,
their numbers would increase, but it would fall into fragments,
long before the useful arts could be invented. It has ever been
in the mildest climates, gifted by nature with plenty, that civili¬
zation has had its origin. Egypt and fruitful Asia, first became
possessed of a numerous population, and first cultivated the arts
and sciences. In America civilization first appeared, in similar
climates, where nature, with little help from man, produces
abundance of food. In both the old and the new world, the

ANTIQUITIES.— BOOK II.

193

celestial spark kindled in those happy dimes, would be carried
to less favored regions. But the human race has every where
experienced terrible revolutions. Pestilence, war, and the con¬
vulsions of the globe, have annihilated the proudest works, and
rendered vain the noblest efforts. Ask not the sage, by whom,
and when, were erected those lingering ruins, the “ frail me¬
morials” of ages which have long since been swallowed up in
the ocean of time ; ask not the wild Arab, where may be found
the owner of the superb palace, within whose broken walls he
casts his tent; ask not the poor fisherman, as he spreads his nets,
or the ploughman, who whistles over the ground, where is Car¬
thage, where is Troy, of whose splendor, historians and poets
have so much boasted 1 Alas ! “ they have vanished from the tilings
that be,” and have left but the melancholy lesson, of the insta¬
bility of the most stupendous labors, and the vanity of immor¬
tality on earth 1

In the wanderings of fancy, I have sometimes conceived this
hemisphere, like the other, to have experienced the genial ray
of civilization, and to have been inhabited by a numerous, polite,
and enlightened people.* Why may noi great revolutions have
been experienced in America 1 Is it certain, that Mexico, Peru,

* Even this idea, strange and novel as it may Seem, might, by an in¬
genious theorist, have an air of importance given to it, by bringingin-
to view, some vague passages of ancient authors. Plato, in one of his
dialogues, speaks of a people, who had come from the Atlantic in great
numbers, and overran the greater part of Europe and Asia. Many cir¬
cumstances related of the island of the Atlantic, Correspond with Ame¬
rica. 'This occurrence, to which Plato alludes, was considered of great
antiquity, and preserved by obscure tradition. The island was said to
have been sunk by an earthquake The fact is certain, that amongst
the Greeks, there prevailed a belief of the existence Of another conti¬
nent, in the Atlantic ocean, and inhabited by a powerful people, who,
in remote antiquity, had invaded the old world Amongst the Romans,
Who borrowed the greater part of their learning from the Greeks, the
same belief prevailed. Seneca has this remarkable passage : “ In ages to
come, the seas will be traversed, and in spite of the wind and waves, ava¬
rice and pride will discover a New World, and Thu e shall be no longer
considered ihe extreme part of the globe.” Mons. Peyroux has in a
very ingenious essay, rendered it even probable, that the ancients had

194

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA.

and Chili, when first visited by Europeans, exhibited only the
dawn of civilization ? Perhaps it was the fiftieth approach doomed
to suffer a relapse, before the sacred flame could be extended to
other portions of the continent : perhaps, at some distant period
the flame had been widely spread, and again extinguished by
the common enemies of the human race. But 1 am askeu, if
this had been the case, should we not see indubitable proofs, in
the remains of antiquity, edifices of stone, mines, and laborious
works of human hands. I answer, that nature is ever laboring
to restore herself, she is ever engaged in replacing inks primi¬
tive state, whatever changes the hand of man may effect in her
appearance. Excavations of the earth would be filled up by the
hand of time, and piles of stone when separated from the living
rock, would crumble into dust. America may have been less
fortunate than Europe in those happy inventions which serve in
some measure to perpetuate improvements, and yet, in some of
the arts she may have attained a greater excellence. The cha¬
racter of her civilization may have been different from any of
which we have a knowledge, and her relapse produced by
causes of which we can form no conjecture.

Who will assign, as the age of America, a period of years
different from that allowed to, what has been denominated, the
old worid ? A multiplicity of proofs contradict the recency of
her origin; deeply imbedded stores of carbonated wood, the
traces of ancient volcanoes ! 1 could appeal on this subject to
her time-worn cataracts, and channels of mighty rivers, and to
her venerable mountains, which rose when the Creator laid tiie
foundations of the earth 1 When the eye of Europe first beheld
her, did she appear but lately to have sprung from the deep?
No, she contained innumerable and peculiar plants and animals,
she was inhabited by thousands of Indians, possessing different
languages, manners, and appearances. Gi ant then, that Ame¬
rica may have existed a few thousand years; the same causes
prevailing, like effects will be produced; the same revolutions

been acquainted with America in very remote antiquity. Plato places
the destruction of the Atlaniides, at nine thousand years before his
time.'

ANLIQU1TIES. — BOOK II.

195

as have been known in the old world may have taken place
here.

Before the invention of letters, there would be a constant
succession of advances to civilization, and of relapses to barba¬
rism. The Chaldeans, through the glimmer of ancient history,
are represented to us as the first inventors of the arts ; but may
not those people have been preceded by the same revolutions
as have succeeded them. In long and arduous advances, they
might attain to a great height in civilization, and wars, pesti¬
lence, or other calamities, precipitate them to the state of the
barbarian or the savage. It is true, the traces of art would long
remain undefaced; but they would not remain forever ; Time
would obliterate them.

“ He grasp’d a hero’s antique bust.

The marble crumbled into dust,

And sunk beneath the shade.”— seleeck osborne.

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TO THE READER,

THE reader will easily discover that this Journal contains lit¬
tle more than hasty notes, taken with the intention of being ex¬
tended and enlarged at leisure ; but not regarding my voyage
of as much importance as I had imagined it would be, when I
undertook it, this idea has been abandoned 1 might have rela¬
ted many anecdotes and amusing incidents, quorum magna pars
fui , confided to memory, and have added many remarks on In¬
dian manners. I took some pains in making vocabularies of six
or seven different Indian languages, but being informed, that;
Lewis and Clark had formed much greater collections than my
opportunities would admit, I have not thought proper to make
use of them- With respect to the natural history of the coun¬
try, I have hopes that Mr. Bradbury will favor the world with
the result of his observations. I have confined myself chiefly to
such observations on the face of the country, as would give an
idea of its capacity for the reception of population.

For the table which accompanies, I am indebted to general
Clark I take this opportunity of acknowledging my obligations
to that gentleman, who politely favored me with every means
of information in his power.

JOURNAL

OB'

A VOYAGE, &c.

V..

CHAPTER I.

MR. M4NUEL LISA, of whom I have spoken in the
u Views,” was chosen by the company, to take the management
of its affairs on the Missouri, and endeavor to retrieve them if
possible. The profits expected, owing to a variety of unforeseen
misfortunes, had not been realized; indeed, it appeared to be a
prevailing opinion, that the situation of the company was des¬
perate. Besides the loss by fire, at the Sioux establishment, and
the hostility of the Blackfoot Indians, the remnant of the com¬
pany’s men, under Mr. Henry, had crossed the Rocky moun¬
tains, and it was not known what had become of them. To as¬
certain this, was therefore another object of the expedition,
and if possible, to carry them assistance. Mr. Lisa, also, pri¬
vately entertained the hope of being able to make peace with the
Blackfoot Indians, and to be permitted to remain quietly in the
country, which offered the greatest advantages to the company,
A person better qualified for this arduous undertaking, could
not have been chosen. Mr. Lisa is not surpassed by any one, in
the requisite experience in Indian trade and manners, and has
few equals in perseverance and indefatigable industry. Ardent,
bold and enterprising, when any undertaking is begun, no dan¬
gers, or sufferings arc sufficient to overcome his mind. I be-

200

JOURNAL.

lieve there are few men so completely master of that secret of
doing much in a short space of time, which arises, from turning
every moment to advantage, as Will appear in the course of the
Journal. This panegyric is due to Mr Lisa, and it would be
unjust in me to withhold it, after the many marks of attention
I received from him. Unfortunately, however, from what cause?
I know not, the majority of the members of the company have
not the confidence in Mr Lisa, which he so highly merits; but
on this occasion, he was intrusted with the sole direction of their
affairs, in some degree, from necessity, as the most proper per¬
son to conduct an expedition, which appeared little short of des-*
perate. The funds of the company were at so low an ebb, that
it was with some difficulty a barge of twenty tons could be fitted
out, with merchandise to the amount of a few thousand dollars?
and to procure twenty hands and a patron. The members were
unwilling to stake their private credit, where prospects were so
little flattering. This was also the last year appointed for the
continuance of the association? and there was no certainty of its
being renewed.

With respect to myself, I must own to the reader, that I had
no other motive for undertaking a tour of several thousand
miles, through regions but seldom marked, even by the wander¬
ing footsteps of the savage, than the mere gratification, of what
he will term an idle curiosity: and I must confess that I might
have employed my time more beneficially to myself, and more
usefully to the community. Would that I were able to make
some amends, by describing the many interesting objects which
I witnessed, in such a manner as to enable the reader to parti¬
cipate in the agreeable parts of my peregrinations.

We set off from the village of St. Charles, on Tuesday the
2d of April, 1811, with delightful weather. The flood of March,
which immediately succeeds the breaking up of the ice, had be¬
gun to subside, yet the water was still high. Our barge was the
best that ever ascended this river, and manned with twenty stout
oars-meh. As Mr. Lisa had been a sea captain, he took much
pains in rigging his boat with a good mast, and main and top¬
sail ; these being great helps in the navigation of this river. Our
equipage, chiefly composed of young men, though several have*

JOURNAL.

#oi

already made a voyage to the upper Missouri, of which they
are exceedingly proud, and on that account claim a kind of pre¬
cedence over the rest of the crew. We are in all, twenty-five
men, well armed, and completely prepared for defence. There
is, besides, a swivel On the bow of the boat, which, in case of at»
✓tack, would make a formidable appearance : we have also two
brass blunderbusses in the cabin, one over my birth, and the
other over that of Mr. Lisa. These precautions were absolutely
necessary from the hostility of the Sioux bands, Who, of late had
Committed several murders and robberies on the Whites, and
manifested such a disposition that it was believed impossible for
us to pass through their country. The greater part of the mer¬
chandise, which consisted of strbuding, blankets, lead, tobacco,
knives, guns, beads, &c. was concealed in a false cabin, ingeni¬
ously contrived for the purpose ; in this way presenting as little
as possible to tempt the savages. But we hoped, that as this
Was not the season for the coming on the river of the wandering
tribes, the fall being the usual time, We might pass by unnoticed.
Mr. Wilson P. Hunt had set off with a large party, about twen¬
ty-three days before us, on his way to the Columbia; we anx¬
iously hoped to overtake him before he entered the territory of
the Sioux nation ; for this purpose it was resolved to strain eve¬
ry nerve, as upon it, in a great measure depended the safety of
Our voyage.

Having proceeded a few miles above St. Charles, we put to
shore, some of our men still remaining at the village. It is ex¬
ceedingly difficult to make a start on these voyages, from the re¬
luctance of the men to terminate the frolic witn their friends,
Which Usually precedes their departure. They set in to drink*
ihg and carousing, and it is impossible to collect them on board*
Sometimes they make their carousals at the expense of the
Bourgeois; they are credited by the tavern keeper, who knows
that their employer will be compelled to pay, to prevent the de¬
lay of the vbyage. Many vexatious abuses are practised in these
Cases. It Was found impossible to proceed any further this evern
ing; the men in high glee from the liquor they had drank before
Starting; they were therefore permitted to take their swing,

b b

2£2 JOURNAL;

We bad on board a Frenchman named Charbonet, with his
wife, an Indian woman of the Snake nation, both of whom had
accompanied Lewis and Clark to the pacific, and were of great
service. The woman, a good creature, of a mild and gentle dis¬
position, greatly attached to the whites, whose manners and
c|ress she tries to imitate, but she had become sickly, and long¬
ed to revisit her native country; her husband, also, who had
spent many years amongst the Indians, was become weary of a
civilized life. So true, it is, that the attachment to the savage
state, or the state of nature, (with which appellation it has com*
monly been dignifi’ed,) is much stronger than to that of civili¬
sation, with all its comforts, its refinements, and its security.

Wednesday dftril 3d. About two o’clock in the afternoon,
having at length succeeded in getting all hands on board, we
proceeded on our voyage. Found an excessive current, aug¬
mented by the state of the waters. Having come about six miles*
encamped. In the course of this evening, had 3$. much reason
to admire the dexterity of our Canadians and creoles, as I had
before to condemn their frivolity. 1 believe an American could
not be brought to support with patience the fatiguing labors,
apd submission, which these men endure. At this season, when
the water is exceedingly cold, they leap in without a moment’s
hesitation. Their food consists of lied corn homony for break¬
fast, a slice of fat pork and biscuit for dinner, and a pot of mush
for supper, with a pound of taliow in it. Yet this is better than
the common fare ; but we were about to make an extraordinary
voyage, the additional expense was not regarded.

Thursday 4 fh. Last night we were completely drenched
by the rain ; the whole party, the bark itself, in a bad condi¬
tion this morning. Weather somewhat cloudy — clearing up.—
A short distance from our encampment,’ the hills approach the
river N. E. side; they are not high, but rocky, and do not con¬
tinue more than a mile, when the alluvion again commences.—
About 8 a line breeze S. E— sailed until 12— -passed several
plantations S. W. side. The bottoms very extensive on the low¬
er part of this river, the banks high, far above the reach of in¬
undation. Timber, principally cotton wood; a few of the trees
intermixed with it, are beginning to vegetate. The red-bud,

JOURNAL.

the tree which blooms earliest in our woods, atid so mhcli admi¬
red by those who descend the Ohio early in the sprihg, appears
in a few places. Passed an island where the fiv6'r widens con-4
siderably; the current rapid, obliged to abandon oars ahef poles’,
and take the towing line. Above the island the high land a'gaih
approaches the river; there is a brownish colored rock, with $
few dwarf cedars growing on the top and in the clefts. In going
too near shore, we had the misfortune to havC Our top mast bro¬
ken by the projecting limb of a tree. Encamped some distance*
This evening serene and beautiful1; the sand-bars’ begin t6 ap¬
pear; several deer seen. 1 observed on1 the sand-baV^, a kind’ of
scaffolds, ten or fifteen feet in height, which I \Vas' informed
were erected by the neighboring settlers for the purpose of
shooting the deer by moon light, which usually cob&e Out of the
thickets at this time, to avoid1 the mUsketdei ahd to sport oh thd'
smooth beach : the hunter ascends the scaffold, ahcl remains un¬
til the deer approaches. Caine this day about twenty miles'; ha-
vigatiotV comparatively Oasy.

Friday 5th. Wind S. E. fliis morning, enabling us to' set
off under sail— -continued until ten, when it forsook us. Pass¬
ed several plantations, and two islands. The bluffs disappear
on the N. E- side, and are seen on the S'. W . for the first time
since our leaving St. Charles. They rise about tvvo Hundred
feet, and are faced with rock, in masses separated by soil and"
vegetation. These are called the Tavern roc.Ies , from the cir¬
cumstance of a cave ip one of them affording a stopping place
for voyagers ascending, or on rdturnirlg to their homes after
a long absence. The Indians seem to have Had some venera¬
tion for the spot, as it is tolerably well scratched over with their
rude attempts at representing birds and beast’s. From this
place, through a long reach , or straight part of tile river, we have
a distant view of the terminating bluffs N. E. side. A violent
storm of rain, wind; alid thunder, compelled ijs to put' to
shore, having passed a very dangerous and difficult place. The
number of trees which had lately fallen into the river, and the
danger to be apprehended from others, which seemed to have"
but a slender hold, rendered our situation extremely disagreea¬
ble. Towards evening, a canoe with six or seypri men passed

JGURN4L,

on the other side, but we were unable to distinguish them. At
this place I measured a cotton-wood tree, which was thirty-six
feet in circumference; they grow larger on the lower parts
of this river, than perhaps any where else in America. The
bluffs, in the course of this day appeared higher? but not so ab¬
rupt or rocky.

Saturday 6th. Having passed a small willow island, we got
beyond the hills on the S. W. side. At 1 1 o’clock, the wind
became so high, that we were compelled to stop, as it blew di¬
rectly down the river. This is near Boon’s settlement-— About
sixty miles from S.t. Charles* A number of plantations at the
edge of the bottom. The wind having abated in the evening*
we proceeded a fevy miles further, and encamped-

Sunday 7th. Water rising. Crossed to the S W. side?
and encountered a very swift current, at the head of the willow
island. The difficulty of this navigation is not easily described.
Made Point Labadie, so called from a French trader, who for¬
merly wintered here. Forty years ago this was thought a dis¬
tant point on the Missouri, at present there are tolerable plan¬
tations every where through the bottom. The carcases of se¬
veral drowned buffaloes passed by ps; it is said that an unusual
number of them has been drowned this year — Some have been
seen floating on the river at St. Louis. A gentleman lately de¬
scended, declares that he counted forty on the head of an island.
Immediately below Point Labadie, the river contracts its breadth?
and is confined to a channel of three or four hundred yards wide.
Passed between an island and the main shore ; a very narrow
channel, but the current and distance less. A channel of this
sort is often taken in preference, and it is one of the means of
facilitating the pending of this uncommonly rapid river : bu£
there is sometimes danger of the upper end being closed with
logs and billets of w°°d matted together, as it turned out in the
pre sent instance ; fortunately after the labor of an hour we were
able to remove the obstacles, else we should have been compell¬
ed to return. Opposite the head of the island there is a tolera-
Table log house, and some land cleared ; the tenant, a new comer?
with a wife and six children, had nothing to give or sell. Here
the banks fail in very much: the river more than a mile wi<Je*

JOURNAL

305

A great impediment in opening lands on this river, is the dilapi¬
dation of the banks, which immediately ensue when the trees
are cut away, from the rapid current acting upon a light soil of
a texture extremely loose. It will be found absolutely neces¬
sary to leave the trees to stand on the borders of the river. The
river exceedingly crooked in the course of this day. A num¬
ber of plantations on both sides. Having made about fourteen
miles, we put to shore, after passing a very difficult embarras.
This word needs some explanation Independent of the cur¬
rent of that vast volume of water rolling with great impetuosity*
the navigation is obstructed by various other impediments. At
the distance of every mile or two, and frequently at less distant
intervals, there are embarras , or rafts, formed by the collection
of trees closely matted, and extending from twenty to thirty
yards. The current vexed by these interruptions, rushes round
them with great violence and force. We may now judge what
U boat encounters in grapling round these rafts. When the oars
and grapling hooks were found insufficient, the towing line was
psually resorted to with success. There is not only difficulty
here, but considerable danger, in case the boat should swing
round. In bends where the banks fall in, as in llje Mississippi,
trees lie for some distance out in the river. In doubling points, in
passing sawyers, difficulties are encountered. The water is ge¬
nerally too deep to admit of poling; i£ would be absolutely im¬
possible to stem the current further out than a few yards ; the
boat usually passes about this distance from the bank. Where
the bank has not been washed steep, which is most usually the
case, and the ground newly formed, the young trees, of the wil¬
low, cotton-wood Sec. which overhang the stream, afford much
assistance in pulling the boat along with the hands.

Monday 8th. The water fell last night as much as it had
risen. About ten came in sight of a little village N. E. side cal¬
led Charette. There are about thirty families here, who hunt,
and raise a little corn. A very long island lies in the bend in
which this village is situated. Above this island, passed under
a gentje breeze, some very handsome bluffs, S. W. side to the
isle aux Boeufs ; they are about one hundred feet high, and ex¬
cepting in a few places where rocks appear, covered with oak

JOURNAL.

and other timber. At this place, the river makes a considerable
bend. Instead of taking the main channel, we entered a smaller
one between the island and the shore, which will shorten the
distance ; the current not so strong. The channel is about fifty
yards wide, and1 very handsome, having clean even banks, and re¬
sembling a small river.— -It is about four miles in length

Through all these islands, and on the Missouri bottoms,
there are great quantities of rushes, commonly called scrub
grass.* They grow four or five feet high, and so close, as to
render it very disagreeable, as well as difficult, to- pass through
the woods. The cattle feed upon them in the winter, answer¬
ing the same purpose as the cane on the Mississippi.

At the upper end of the isle auoc B'oeufs , we were compell¬
ed, about five o’clock in the evening, to put to shore, on account
of a violent storm, which continued until after dark. In the bad¬
ly constructed cabin of our boat, we were wet to the skin :
the men were better off in their tents, made by a blanket stretchr
ed over twigs.

We have been accompanied for these two days past, by a
man and two iads, ascending in a canoe. This evening they en¬
camped close by us, placing the canoe under shelter of our boat.
Unsheltered, except by the trees on the bank, and a ragged
quilt drawn over a couple of forks, they abode “ the pelting of
the pitiless storm/’ with apparent indifference. These people
are well dressed in handsome home made cotton cloth. The
man seemed to possess no small share of pride and seif import¬
ance, which, as l afterwards discovered, arose from his being a
captain of. militia. He borrowed a kettle from* us-, and gave it
to one of his boys. When we were about to sit down to supper,
he retired, but returned when it was over; when asked, why he
had not staid to do us the honor of supping with us; “ I thank
you, gentlemen,” said he, licking his lips with satisfaction, “ I
have just been eating an excellent supper.” — He had scarcely
spoken, when the patron\ came to inform Mr, Lisa, they were

* This is the case for several hundred miles up the Missouri.

f The Patron is the fresh water sailing-master.

JOURNAL.

begging him for a biscuit, as they had eaten nothing for two
days ! our visitant was somewhat disconcerted, but passed it off
with, « Poh ! I’m sure they can’t be suffering 1”

He resides on the Gasconade ; was the second family which
settled in that quarter, about three years ago. He has at pre¬
sent about 250 men on his muster-roll. We were entertained
by him with a long story of his having pursued some Pottawato-
mies, who had committed robberies on the settlements some
time last summer; he made a narrow escape, the Indians hav¬
ing attacked his party in the night time, and killed four of his
men after a desperate resistance. The captain had on board a
barrel of whiskey to set up tavern with, a bag of cotton for his
wife to spin, and a couple of kittens, for the purpose of aug¬
menting his family : these kept up such doleful serenades , du¬
ring the night, that I was scarcely abie to close my eyes.

CHAPTER IL

Tuesday 9th. Set off this morning with a light breeze, which
continued to augment until ten, when from a change in the coursft
of the river, it was Unfavorable for two or three miles. Passed
a number of plantations on both sides, and isle a la Lovtf -jy which
is about twelve miles long, and two wide, near the N. E. side $
it has a compact settlement In the course of the day we lost
sight of our captain of Vhe Gasconade, who was not able to keep
up with us in his canoe.

Passed at four o’clock, the Gasconade, a considerable river,
S. W. side, which rises with the Maramek, and has been as¬
cended upwards of one hundred miles, in canoes ; but its chan¬
nel is rocky and rough. It is ninety miles from the mouth of the
Missouri. The lands on its borders are broken and hilly, and
badly wooded. Before reaching the Gasconade, we passed a

J(3TJRtt4L,

508

long range of bluffs, or rather hills, well covered with wood, but
terminating at the entrance of the river in rocky precipices;
this range appears again on the other side of the Gmseonade. — *
There is a very long reach here, of fifteen or twenty untiles ; the
Gasconade hills, on the S. W side, are washed by the Missouri
the whole of this distance. This day was sufficient to prove the
efficacy of our sails, in navigating this river; we passed with
ease, places much worse than any we had encountered since
leaving St Charles. Encamped six miles above the Gasconade;
heavy rains last night.

Wednesday 10 th. Cloudy — crossed to the bluffs, N E side,
Which are high and rocky. Passed Montbrun’s tavern and river;
another stopping place for voyagers. Passed an embarras, N E;
side, the most difficult since we started. There are wide bottoms
above these bluffs, on both sides of the river. The wind against
us throughout the whole of this day The verdure is observed
to be rapidly increasing ; the smaller trees and shruns are alrea¬
dy in gay green. From the color of the water on the S. W side.
It appears that the Osage river is paying the annual tribute.

Thursday Wth. A fine morning. Current so strong S. W.
side, from the waters of the Osage, that we were compelled to
cross to an island. Hills on the N E. side, not high or rocky i
'continued on this side to ascend throughout the day, though
with difficulty, on account of numerous embarras , and failing in
<jf the banks. This is a fine country : the lands extremely rich*
and covered with a great variety of trees. Stopped a few mo¬
ments at the cabin of a Frenchman, who is beginning to open a
plantation. In company with the interpreter, I proceeded by
land, across a point, about two miles to the village of Cote sans
Dessein , where we arrived nearly three hours before the barge.
We inquired with eagerness after the party of Mr. Hunt; we
were informed that he had passed this place twenty-one days
ago. Thus far, it appears that we have gained but two days up¬
on him.

Friday \2th. Weather fine— a gentle breeze on the river
from S. E. Remained here until eleven, engaged in repairing
4ur -cabin. Mr. Lisa here employed a famous hunter, named

JOURNAL. 203

Castor, a Kansas Indian* who had been brought up from infancy’
amongst the whites.

The Cote sans Dessein, is a beautiful place, situated on the
N. E. side of the river, and in sight of the CLage. It will
in time become a considerable Village. The beauty and fertile
ity of the surrounding country cannot be surpassed. It is here
that we met with the first appearance of prairie, on the Missou¬
ri, but it is handsomely mixed with wood land. The wooded
country on the N. E. extends at least thirty miles, as far up as
this place, and not less than fifteen on the Other side. The name
is given to this place, from the circumstance of a single detach¬
ed hill filled with limestone, standing on the bank of the river,
about six hundred yards long, and very narrow. — The village
has been established about three years ; there are thirteen French
families, and two or three of Indians. They have handsome
fields in the prairie, but the greater part of their time is spent
in hunting. From their eager inquiries after merchandise, I
perceived we Were already remote from the settlements.

We continued under way, with a light breeze, but scarcely
sufficient to waft the barge of itself, without the aid of oars.— •
Handsome wooded upland, S. W. side* gently sloping to the
river, and not rocky. For many reasons* I would prefer these
situations to the bottom, where the soil is richer. Passed the
Great Osage river, one hundred and thirty-three miles from the
mouth of the Missouri, and navigable about six hundred miles.
There is much fine land immediately on its borders, but the
prairies stretch out on either side, and to the westward are afc
most boundless. The Osage villages are situated about two hun*
dred miles up.

Passed a long island, called V isle a! Cedre , Cedar island. A
number of islands on the Missouri bear this name, from the
growth of cedar upon them., in this particular, differing from. the
islands of the Mississippi. In this island the best part of the
Wood had been cut down, and rafted to St. Louis, to supply
the settlements with this wood, of which there is a great con¬
sumption.

Throughout the course of this day, we found the navigation
less arduous and painful ; owing principally to the falling of the

?10

JOURNAL.

waters, and to our having passed one of those rivers which add
to the current of the Missouri. The sand bars, begin to present
a pleasing appearance ; several miles in length, clean and smooth*
Instead of ascending along either side, we pursued the middle
of the river, along the sand bars. Encamped N. E. side, just
above the Cedar island. The bars and the sides of the river are
every where marked with deer tracks.

Saturday \otk. A fine morning-— somewhat cool-set off
•with a favorable breeze. Passed hills on the S. W. side — saw
five or six deer sporting on a sand bar. Passed the Manitoo
rocks, S. W. side, a la Bonne Femme creek. The country here*
about* is delightful ; the upland sloping gently to the river, tim¬
bered with oak, hickory, ash, &c. The lands on this stream are
said not to be surpassed by any in the territory.

After having had a favorable wind the greater part of the
day, encamped at the Roche Jiercee , perforated rock ; a high
craggy cliff on the N. E. side. This is the narrowest part of the
river 1 have yet seen ; it is scarcely two hundred yards wide. — »
Made in the course of this day about twenty-eight miles, for
which we were indebted to the favorable wind. Some of us con¬
sidered this good fortune, a reward for the charity which was
manifested by us yesterday, in spending an hour to relieve a
poor ox, which was swamped near the bank. The poor creature
had remained here ten or twelve days, and the sand into which
he had sunk, was become hard and solid. The woives had paid
him friendly visits from time to time, to inquire after his health,
while buzzards, crows, and eagles, tendered their salutations
from the boughs of the neighboring trees.

Sunday 14 th. Violent wind all night— hoisted sail before
day light, in order to take advantage of the wind. Passed the
Maniton on the N, E. side, and high rocks. A delightful coun¬
try. Wind slackened about ten At twelve, came in sight of
the hills of Mine river, resembling those of the Gasconade. At
three, the wind again rose — passed the Mine river, S. W side.
This river is not navigable more than ten or twelve miles Va¬
luable saltworks are established here. The whole of this day
we found rich and extensive bottoms, N. E. side, and beautifuf
sloping upland, S. W. on this side of the river some beau-

JOURNAL.

211-

iiful situations for farms and plantations. The hills rise with a
most delightful ascent from the water’s edge, to the height of
forty or fifty feet ; the woods open and handsome. The lands
on the Mine river, reputed excellent. The bottoms on the N.
E. side the Missouri, uncommonly fine. There is a flour¬
ishing settlement here. As this is Sunday, the good people
were dressed out in their best clothes, and came in groups to
the bank to gaze upon us, as we passed by under sail. We put
to shore, at the farm of Braxton Cooper, a worthy man, who has
the management of the saltworks. The settlement is but one
year old, but is already considerable, and increasing rapidly ; it
consists of seventy-five families, the greater part living on the
bank of the river, in the space of four or five miles. They are,
generally, persons in good circumstances, most of them have
slaves. Mr. Cooper informed me that the upland, back, is the
most beautiful ever beheld. He thinks that from the mouth of
the Missouri to this place, the country for at least forty miles
from the river, may bear the character of rich woodland : the
prairies forming but trifling proportions. This place is two hun¬
dred miles up. We inquired for the party of which we were
in chase— -they had passed by nineteen days before ^is.

Monday 1 5th. Rain last night, but without lightning— from
this it is prognosticated that the wind will continue favorable to
day . Set off with a fair wind, but the course of the river became
unfavorable. At half past seven, again fair— continued under
sail until twelve. Passed handsome upland S. W. side, and the
two Chareton rivers N. E. Had to oppose in the course of the
day some very difficult places — the river extremely crooked.
While the men were towing, they chased a she bear into a hol¬
low tree; we set about chopping the tree, while several stood
with guns presented to the hole at which she had entered, about
twenty feet up. In a short time she put out her head and shoul¬
ders, but on receiving a volley, instantly withdrew. The chop¬
ping was renewed ; madam Cuff again appeared, and was saluted
as before, but without producing the same effect, as she leisure¬
ly crawled down the tree, and attempted to make off, amidst the
shouts of fifteen or twenty barbarians,, who were bent on the de¬
struction of a mother and her little family. She was killed with

flf JOURNAL.

a strode of an axe, having been previously severely wounded. la
the hoilpw sycamore, there were found three cubs At five,
hoisted sail, and continued until seven, having this day made
twenty -eight miles. Towards evening, passed beautiful undula-s
ting hills, gently sloping to the river. What charming situa¬
tions for seats and farms!

Tuesday 16 th. Set off without wind— the river rising. At
eleven, the wind so much against us that we were obliged to lie
by. At three we continued our voyage, and as it was resolyed tq
tow, I set out with my rifle, expecting to meet the boat at the
head of a long bend. This is the first excursion I have made in¬
to the country. I passed through the bottom with great difficul¬
ty, on account of the rushes, which grow as high as a man’s head,
and are matted with vines and briars. The beauty of the upland
in some degree recompensed. Clean and open woods, growth,
oak, hickory, <kc ; the grass beginning to appear green. Saw se¬
veral deer, and abundance of turkeys, We are now in a country
which abounds with game. I came late in the evening to the
boat, I having been supposed lost in the woods. Our hunter
hau been more successful than I, having killed a she bear with
four cubs. The river very crooked in the course of this day.— *
Passed some places of thin woods— not quite pr airie, on the
bank of the river.

Wednesday \7th. Breakfasted under sail. Passed the Grand
yiver, N. p. side. It is two hundred yards wide at its mouth ; a
very long river, navigable six or eight hundred miles, and takes
its waters with the river Des Moines. The traders who were ip
the habit of visiting the Mahas, six hundred miles above this on
the Missouri, were formerly compelled to ascend this river in
order to avoid the Kansas Indians, who were then the robbers of
the Missouri There is a portage of not more than a couple of
days, from the Grand river to the Mahas.

» At the confluence on the lower side, there is a beautiful sit¬
uation, The bottom is- a handsome prairie, which is seen extend¬
ing for the first time on the Missouri, to the water’s edge, md
about a mile in width : the upland then rises with a gentle as¬
cent, with here a .d there &few dumps of trees. Immediately
at the paint gf junction., there are. about fifty acres of well tim-

JOURNAL,

213

bered land. Here is a delightful situation for a village : the dis¬
tance about two hundred and forty miles from the mouth of the
Missouri There is some beautiful country lying on the Grand
river, but deficient in wood. In fact, this river may almost be
considered the boundary of the wooded upland on that side ot
the river.

Here the wind failed us The Missouri very wide; a large
bar in the middle. The beautiful green hills of the Little Osage
in sight. But for the single defect of the dilapidating banks of
the Missouri, the country bordering on it, thus far, would not
be surpassed by any in the world. Spring has already cast her
green mantle over the land ; and the scenery every where as¬
sumes a more enlivened appearance. After an arduous naviga¬
tion, came this day about twenty miles.

Thursday 18 tk. Heavy rain last night, accompanied by unu¬
sual thunder and lightning. Set off at six, weather apparently
clearing up. About ten, compelled by heavy rain to put to shore
until three, when we again shoved oft’, came a few miles and en^
camped, N. E side.

Triday 1 9th. Continued our voyage at daylight, and came
through a long channel, between an island and the shore. The
wind S. E. but the course of the river such as to disable us from
profiting by it. A drizzling rain, and the weather disagreeable.
Wind favorable for an hour. Passed handsome upland and prai¬
rie S W. side. There was formerly a village of the Little Os-
ages here, but from the frequent attacks of the Ayuwas, they
were, compelled to go higher up the river. The situation is fine.
At a distance, the deep green herbage on this open ground had
much the appearance of a wheat field.

Encamped late, after having got through a channel with con¬
siderable difficulty. The slowness with which we have advanc¬
ed for several days past, forms a contrast with those which pre¬
ceded. Water rising.

Saturday 20th, A cold disagreeable morning. The men
drenched by the heavy rain of last night. Hoisted sail about six,
but the wind served us but a short distance. — Weather clearing
up — put to shore for an hour to dry our effects. Handsome hills
on the S. W. side. Got under way at three, along the N. E*

21 4

JOURNAL,

side. One of the finest tracts of land I have seen — a great pro,*
portion of the timber is walnut, poplar, and cotton wood, of enor¬
mous size. Entered a channel, at the upper end of which, fired
upon a flock of several hundred pelicans, standing on a shoal—
These birds abound very much on the Missouri, but are shy.—
We daily kill wild fowl, ducks, geese, brandt, See. — which as¬
cend the river at this season of the year, to breed. Their eggs
are found at every moment, on the sand bars.

Sunday 2 1st. A delightful morning, though somewhat cool.
Got under way early— passed through the channel, and crossed
over to the S. W. side. Had some difficult embarras , but no
great current. After breakfast, took my gun, and struck into
the woods. On ascending the hills about two hundred feet in
height, I had a fine view up and down the river. On the other
side, (N. E.) there is an extensive prairie bottom, apparently
four or five miles wide ; and a evel plain of vast extent stretch¬
ing out on either hand, of rich al uvion soil, from the appearance
of the luxuriant herbage. There is a singular contrast of the
sward which has remained unburnt, and the extensive traces of
deep green of the grass of this spring. Beyond the plain, the
prairie rises into upland, of abrupt elevation, and in a thousand
fantastic forms, but without a shrub, and apparently covered with
but a thin coat of vegetation.

_ On this side, (S. W.) I found the soil of the upland of an
excellent quality — and notwithstanding the ravages committed
by fire, the woods, principally hickory, oak, walnut, ash, &c.—
were tolerably close.

Returned to the boat about four in the evening. We spent
an hour and an half this evening, in grappling around some rocks
of free stone, the distance of a few hundred yards. The swift¬
ness of the current on the other side rendered it impossible to
attempt it there — Encamped some distance above an encamp*
ment of Mr. Hunt, which appeared not more than ten or twelve
days old.

Monday 22 d. Continued until eleven, with cordelle , or tow¬
ing line — the banks being favorable. The hills, or bluffs, are
here, about one hundred feet high, and rise abruptly from the
river. Wind from S. S. W. becoming too strong, were com-

JOURNAL*

21,5

pelled to lie by Until three. Crossed to the N. E. side, and en«
deavored to ascend between the shore and an island, but found a
sand bar running across, at the upper end, so that we were oblig¬
ed to back, and encamp nearly opposite the place of starting.

Tuesday 2 3d. Very high wind this morning. Doubled the
island which had been the scene of so much vexation. Endea¬
vored to proceed on the outside, but met with so many difficul¬
ties, that we were compelled to cross to the S. W. side. Tow¬
ed to Ibar’s channel and island — then re-crossed to the N E.
side, and found ourselves about two miles above our last night’s
encampment. Remained here until three, when the wind some¬
what abated its violence. Having arrived opposite the Wizzard’s
island, (L’isle du Sorcier) crossed over and encamped. The
superstitious boatmen believe that a wizzard inhabits this
island ; they declare that a man has been frequently seen on the
sand beach, at the point, but that he suddenly disappears, on the
approach of any one. These few days have been in a manner lost,
from contrary winds, and bad weather. Heavy rain this even¬
ing— Musketoes begin to be troublesome, for the first time dur¬
ing our voyage.

Wednesday 24 th. Attempted a ripple this morning, and
were driven back five times — we had once got within half
the boat’s length of being through ; the oars and poles were
insufficient; ten of our men leaped into the water with the cor-
delle, while the rest of us exerted ourselves with the pole : and
thus by perseverance became conquerors. This ripple, like all
others of the Missouri, is formed by high sand bars, over which
the water is precipitated, with considerable noise This bar has
heen formed within two or three years. The bend formerly al¬
most impassible from the swiftness of the current, is now toler¬
able. There is seldom any great current on both sides : the fall¬
ing in of the banks indicates the current to be therp. Wherever
the river has a wider channel than ordinary, there is usually a
sand bar in the middle. This extraordinary river sometimes
pursues a straight course for ten or fifteen miles, then suddenly
turns to every point of the compass s In other places, the whole
volume of its waters is compressed into a channel of two or three
hundred yards ; again suddenly opening to the width of one, qr

216 Journal,

even two miles, with islands *nd sand bars scattered through
the space.

Passed a canoe with four men, who had wintered up the Kan-
sas, about five hundred miles: they had beaver, and other furs.
They could give no information respec.ing Hunt’s party we
conclude he must have passed that river before they came out
of it.

F rora the violence of the wind, made but a few miles. While
Castor was out, he saw a white turkey , but was not so fortunate-
as to kill it. I am told that they have sometimes been seen of
this color ; but I suspect it is

Bara avis in terris, nigroque simillima cygno.

Thursday 25th. Contrary winds, but not such as to prevent
us from continuing our voyage tolerably well. About eleven^
came in sight of Fort Osage, situate on a bluff, three miles off,
on a commanding eminence. We stopped sometime at the
clearing of Mr. Audrain, who is about opening a farm below the
fort. A number of Indians of the Osage nation, of all ages, and
seies, were scattered along the bank, attracted by curiosity—
some with old buffaloe robes thrown over their shoulders, others
dressed out in "the gayest manner. They gathered round us in
crowds, and manifested an idle curiosity, very different from
the Indians who live east of the Mississippi, one of whose cha-
teristics, is a studied indifference, as to every thing strange
which transpires around them.

On landing at the fort, on a very rocky shore, a soldier un*»
der arms, who waited for us at the water’s side, escorted Mr.
Lisa and myself to the fort, where we were politely received by
the commanding officer.

While Mr. Lisa was transacting some business, accompa¬
nied by Mr. Sibly, the factor, and an interpreter, I Went to deliv¬
er a pipe to Sans Oreille , (a warrior, and head man of this tribe)
sent to him by gen. Clark. He received us, seated on a matj
and after smoking in the usual manner, requested the interpre¬
ter fo inform me “ that he was the friend of the Americans, and

JOURNAL,

that he was flattered with this proof of gen. Clark’s good will
towards him.” He was surrounded by a number of young war¬
riors, who appeared to look upon him with great respect. This
man, though not a chief, is evidently intriguing to be the head
of his tribe, and has great influence with them : the chief, Young
White Hairs, having but little to entitle him to respect from his
own character, being extremely young, and of a gentle disposi¬
tion. Sans Oreille , as is usual with the ambitious amongst these
people, is the poorest man in the nation : to set the heart upon
goods and chattels, being reckoned indicative of a mean and nar¬
row soul : he gives away every thing he can obtain, in order to
procure popularity. Such is ambition ! Little know they of this
state of society, who believe that it is free from jealousies, envy,
detraction, or guilty ambition. No demagoguc-^-no Cataline,
ever used greater art and finesse, or displayed more policy than
this cunning savage. The arts of seducing the multitude are
nearly the same every where, and the passion for power and dis¬
tinction, seems inherent in human nature. He is a tall fine look'*
ing man, possesses very superior abilities, and is esteemed the
best warrior of the village*

The fort is handsomely situated, about one hundred feet
above the level of the river, which makes an elbow at this place*
giving an extensive view up and down the river. Its form is tri¬
angular; this fort is small, not calculated for more than a com¬
pany of men. A group of buildings is formed by the factory,
suttler’s house, &c. The lodges of the Little Osage, are sixty
in number, and within gun shot of the fort; but they are about to
remove their village to a prairie, three miies off Their lodges
are of a circular form, not more than ten or fifteen feet in dia¬
meter, constructed by placing mats, made of coarse rushes, over
forks and poles.

All three of the Osage bands, together with some Kansas,
were lately encamped here for the purpose of trading, to the
number of fifteen hundred warriors. The officer informed me,
that about ten days ago, serious apprehensions had been enter¬
tained from them. A war party, of about two hundred, having
scalped a few women and children, ol the Ayu was, their enemies,
had returned so elated with this exploit, that they insulted the

d d

218

Journal.

people of the fort. One of these warriors defied a centinel on
his post; the centinel was commanded to fire over his head, this
producing no effect, he was seized by a file of men. This he at
first treated with indifference, declaring, that if he was confined,
he would get some of the whitemen’s bread ; his tune was chang¬
ed, however, by a liberal application of the cat o’ nine tails to
his back. Great commotions amongst the Indians were excit¬
ed ; they rushed forward with their arms ; but the soldiers no
sooner paraded and made ready a few pieces of cannon, than
they thought proper to retreat. They maintained a threatening-
attitude for some days, and to give vent to their spite, killed a
pair of fine oxen, belonging to Mr. Audrain. The officer sent
for the chiefs, and told them, that unless two others were given
for the oxen, he would instantly fire upon their village. This
spirited deportment had the desired effect, the chief complied,
and after some counselling* the pipe was smoked, and all matters
adjusted.

These Indians are not to be compared to the nations east of
the Mississippi; although at war with most of their neighbors,
they are a cowardly race. One good trait, however, deserves to
be mentioned ; they have rarely, if ever, been known to spill the
blood of a White man:— When a white hunter is found on their
lands, they take away his furs and his arms, he is then beaten
with ramrods, and driven off.

• Mr. Sibly informed me, that he was just setting out on a
tour towards the Arkansas, to visit the salines,* on that river,
and also to the Kansas and Platte, to see the Pani nation.

Thus far we have gained about one hundred miles upon the
party of Hunt— we ai-e in good spirits, and will renew the pur¬
suit with augmented vigor.

This place is something better than three hundred miles up
the Missouri, in lat. 38° 40'.

* In the Appendix, there will be found, an extract from the Journal
®f Mr. Sibly’s tour.

JOURNAL;

219

CHAPTER III,

Friday , 2 &th J/iril. Heavy rains last night, cfur situation
extremely uncomfortable. This morning we were awakened
about daylight, by the most hideous howlings I ever heard. —
They proceeded from the Qsages, among whom this is a cus¬
tom. On inquiry, I found that they were unable to give any sa¬
tisfactory reason for it ; I could only learn, that it was partly reli¬
gious, and if it be true, as is supposed by many, that they offer
their worship only to the Evil Spirit, the orison was certainly not
unworthy of him. I was told, also, that it arises from another
cause; when any one, on awaking in the morning, happens to
think of a departed friend, even of some valued dog or horse,
which has been lost, he instantly begins this doleful cry, and all
the others hark in, as soon as it is heard.

About eleven o’clock, clearing up, but wind very strong from
the S. W. we set off with it, blowing directly in our faces.—
About twelve we put to shore and remained for more than two
hours. Crossed to the N. E. side, and continued our voyage. —
Towards evening the weather moderated. Passed a small en¬
campment of hunters. The Missouri is now what the Ohio was
once, the Paradise of hunters. Made nine miles to day. The
water is at a good stage for ascending; the navigation becomes
more agreeable. Weather somewhat cool.

We have now passed the last settlement of whites, and pro¬
bably will not re-visit them for several months. This reflection
caused us all to think seriously of our situation. I almost re¬
pented of having undertaken this voyage, without an object in
view, of suitable importance. Our men were kept from think¬
ing too deeply, by the cheering songs, which were encouraged
by Mr. Lisa, and the splashing of the oars, which kept time with
them. So far removed, I seemed to look back, as from an emb
nence ; thus abstracted, 1 fancied that I contemplated my epuri-
try with more accuracy than I could while protected in its bo¬
som. I heaved a sigh, when I reflected that I might never see it,
or my friends again ; that my bones might be deposited on some

$20

JOURNAL.

dreary spot, far from my home, and the haunts of civilized man ;
but this last, suggested a consolation, there is no spot however
distant, where I may be buried, but will in time, be surrounded
by the habitations of Americans, the place will be marked, and
approached with respect, as containing the remains of one of the
first who ventured into these distant and solitary regions 1

Saturday 27th. We are once more to be somewhat favored.
This is a delightful morning, though cool. Set off at daylight,
and at six, had a light breeze from east. Passed Vincent’s island,
above which the river is extremely narrow, and hills S. W. side.
About eleven, met a party of traders in two canoes lashed toge¬
ther, which form a kind of raft, heavily laden with furs, and skins.
They came from the Sioux, who, they say, are peaceably dispos¬
ed. They met Hunt’s party, five days ago, at the Little Nime-
ha; it proceeds slowly, and had two days of contrary winds.—*
The traders think we shall be able to overtake them at the river
Platte. — Hunt informed them that they would meet us below
the Grand river. Wind fell shortly after leaving this party. The
good news we have heard, animates our men very much.

Towards evening, passed Benito’s island and sand bar, S. W.
side, so called, from a trader of that name having been robbed by
the Ayuwas of his peltry, and he, with his men, forced to carry
enormous burdens of it on their backs, to the river des Moines.
Instances of such insults were formerly very usual * several
spots have been shewn to me where like acts have been com¬
mitted, and even accompanied with murder. Having come
within two leagues of the Kansas river, we encamped. Large
sand bars begin every where to appear.

Sunday 28 th. A cool morning, and somewhat foggy on the
yiver— A light breeze from the east, but not sufficient to enable
us to carry sails. Passed high land N. E side, with .some rocks
on the shore ; we are constantly delighted with the gentle hills,
or rather elevated upland of the Missouri. On a large sand bar.,
saw nearly thirty deer. They are very numerous on this part of
the river.

Passed the Kansas, a very large river which enters on the
W. side. It heads between the Platte and the Arkansas. — .
The country on its borders, is entirely open. The river can be

JOURNAL,

221

ascended with little difficulty, more than twelve hundred miles.
The Kansas nation of Indians reside upon it.

In the evening we passed the litttle river Platte, navigable
with canoes fifty or sixty miles, and said to abound with beaver.
We encamped near a mile above it, having made about fifteen
miles.

In the course of this day, we find the river, in most places,,
extremely narrow, and the sand bars very extensive.

Monday 29th. Somewhat cloudy this morning — A light
breeze from the S. E. At seven, breakfasted under sail. At
nine, reached a beautiful island, called Diamond island, fifteen
miles above the Kansas. From this, there is a long reach of six
or eight miles. The weather is fine — the breeze still con¬
tinuing.

At three o’clock we had made twenty-four miles. The wind,
from the change of the course of the river, could not serve us1.
We lost two hours in passing one of the most difficult places I
have seen on the river : after which, we had a fair wind again,
until night.

Passed in the course of this day, some beautiful country on
both sides : the upland chiefiy S. W and a greater proportion
of prairie than we have yet seen. The river generally narrow,
and the sand bars of great extent.

Having made about thirty miles, we encamped a short dis¬
tance below Buffidoe island, opposite a range of hills, and at the
upper end of a long view. During the whole of the day, we saw
astonishing quantities of game on the shore ; particularly de.ey
and turkeys. The buffaloe or elk are not yet seen.

Tuesday 30 th. Last night there was much thunder and
lightning, out little rain. At day light embarked with a favor-
able wind, which continued until seven, when, from the course of
the river, the wind failed us for an houx. The river extremely
crooked. Mr. Lisa and myself went on shore, and each killed
a deer. There were great numbers of them sporting on the sand
bars. There are great quantities of snipes, of a beautiful plu¬
mage, being a curious mixture of dove color, and white. I saw
one of a different kind, which was scarlet underneath the wingjb

2 22

JOURNAL

At two o’clock we hoisted sail at the beginning of a long
reach, to the great joy of the whole company. High prairies S,
W. side — continued under sail through another long reach, and
had a view of the old Kansas village, at the upper end of it. It
is a high prairie ; smooth waving hills, perfectly green, with a
few clumps of trees in the hollows. But for the scarcity of tim¬
ber this would be a delightful situation for a town At this
place, the bend of the river rendered the wind unfavorable —
Continued under oars about 3 miles further, having in the course
of this day made thirty three miles.

Wednesday , Is? May. Very high wind all last night. Em¬
barked this morning about daylight, and continued under sail
until six o’clock. Upland N. E. side, thinly timbered. It may
be remarked, that the hills of the Missouri are not so high as
those of the Ohio, seldom rocky, and rise more pleasantly from
the water’s edge. Continued under sail until eleven, when we
were brought off by a considerable bend in the river. Passed St.
Michael’s prairie, a handsome plain in front, with variegated hills
in the back ground, and but little wood. At two o’clock we
came to a very great bend in the river, but did not gel through
until evening. The river from being narrow, changes to an un¬
usual width, and very shallow. We were detained about an
hour, having been so unlucky as to run aground.

Saw but one or two deer to day, as we approach the open
country their numbers will be found to diminish, there being no
thickets to shelter them. They are said to lessen perceptibly
from Nodawa river upwards.

In the evening, the weather, which has been for some days
cloudy, cleared up, and the wind abated entirely : the Missouri
and its scenery appeared in their natural state. The wind also
became calm, and seemed to harmonize with nature. The river
is falling fast, approaching to a low stage of water — came to day
twentyiseven miles.

Thursday 2d Embarked at daylight, the river unruffled by
a breeze ; the birds, as if rejoicing that the strife of the elements
had ceased, tuned their sweetest notes.

At seven o’clock, breakfasted opposite some bluffs N. E.
side. A very large mass appeared at no distant period) to have

JOURNAL,

233

slipped into the river, leaving a clay precipice fifty or sixty feet
high. A little above, there are rocks of freestone at the edge
of the water. Below this place, there is an extensive prairie,
partly river bottom, and partly upland, with a considerable riv*
ulet passing through it. What a delightful situation for a farm,
or even a town ! Description of such a country as this, can give
no idea of its peculiar character. The hills, or bluffs, begin to
appear, thinly wooded with dwarf trees, principally oak or ash.

In the evening arrived at Nodawa channel, on the N. E*
side, and about five miles in length.

Friday 3d. A beautiful morning; set off at daylight as usu-
al, and passed the wintering ground of Crooks and M’Cielland*
some distance above Nodawa.

High hills on the S. W. side, with some bold places, and
fine land on the N. E. side. In the afternoon passed Wolf riv¬
er, fourteen miles from Nodawa. Shortly after this, a breeze
from N. E. enabled us, from the course of the river, to sail four
or five miles. Passed a large prairie S. W. side, and encamped
at the commencement of another. In these places there is not
even a shrub to the water’s edge, the bottom of considerable
width : the grass very luxuriant.

Saturday 4 th. Heavy rain last night, and drizzling this morn¬
ing. Passed an extensive lowland prairie, above our encamp¬
ment. At half past eight, passed an encampment of Hunt. In
the evening passed the Nimeha and Tarkio creeks, and encamp-J
ed a short distance above.

'' I overheard this evening, with considerable chagrin, while'
warming myself at the fire, some bitter complaints on the part
of the men: they declared that it was impossible for them to
stand it long, that they had never so severe a voyage. This dis¬
content was of course excited by some Thermites of the party.—*
Great exertions have certainly been made and no moments lost,’
in advancing our voyage, but much of the time we were carri¬
ed along by the wind, when there was no need for any labor on
the part of the men. The weather is now fine, and their labor
diversified, when there is no wind, by the pole, the oars, or cor-
delle, which is little more than a promenade along the sand bars.

JOURNAL.

I represented these things to them as well as I could, and en¬
deavored to quiet their minds.

Sunday 5th Passed an encampment of Hunt this morning.
The sun shone out, but the air was cool-wind from N. E. but
not so hard as to form any great obstacle. In the evening hail¬
ed two men descending in a bark canoe; they had been of Hunt’s
party,, and had left him on the 2d of May, two days above the
Platte, at Boyer’s river. They had fair wind it seems all the way
up. Thus, it seems we have gained upon them as much as we
expected.

The weather very fine throughout the day, encamped in the
evening at the upper end of a handsome prairie, opposite a large
sand bar.

Monday 6th. About ten this morning, passed a river called
Nis-na-botona, after which there are some long reaches very fa*
vorable for sailing. At four o’clock arrived at the little Nune-
ha, the course of the river heie is for a considerable distance
nearly N. E — Wind being N. W- were enabled to hoist sail,
but having proceeded about a mile, a squall suddenly sprung up
from the N. we were compelled with ali despatch to take in sail,
and gain the shore S. W. side. Here a dreadful storm raged
during the remainder of the evening, and the greater part of the
night.

Our encampment is at the edge of a large prairie, but with
4 fringe of wood along the bank of the river. The greater part
of the country, particularly on the S, W. side, is now entirely
$pen. The grass is at this time about six inches high.

Tuesday 7th. Continued ouiv voyage at daylight, the weath*
$r fine, though somewhat cool. Wind still continues N.

Passed an island and sand bar, and towed along a prairie S. side
for nearly a mile. This prairie is narrow, bounded by hills
somewhat broken and stony.

At ten o’clock arrived at Uisle ay beau soldi ; the wind here
became so high that we proceeded with great difficulty. In the
evening, arriving at the head of the island, were compelled to
put to shore. Mr. Lisa seized this opportunity of replacing his
<mast, by a young oak which he found in the wood along the
" ‘Shore. All h&fttls w£re set to work on it, in order that it might

JOURNAL, 225

be ready the next day. This was rendered necessary on account
of the old one having given way.

I took this opportunity of making an excursion into the
Country-*-ascended the hills or bluffs, which, though steep, are
not much more than two hundred feet above the level of the riv~
er, and command prospects of great extent. I could see the
meandering course of the river, between the two ranges of
hills, or more properly of high land, for thirty or forty miles.
Some of taese hills are cut into precipices forty or fifty feet
high, without any appearance of stone. It is a light yellow co¬
lored earth, with a considerable mixture of sand. There is an
immense extent of prairie on both sides of the river. The hills
are not always abrupt, but in many places rise gently, and are
extremely beautiful. The river hereabout is very crooked: in
following the hills, along which there is an Indian path, I could
go to a point up the river, which will most probably be our
place of encampment to morrow night.

On my return to the boat, killed some pigeons and wild
ducks, and saw a flock of turkeys.

Wednesday 8th. Last night having finished our mast, we had
it put up this morning before day, and at daylight set off on ou?
voyage. Weather cool, but no wind, and the sun apparently re¬
gaining his empire.

Passed through a country in the course of this day, chiefly
open, with very little wood. The river very wide : in one place
it appeared to me nearly two miles. Encamped at the falling
in banks, or grand eboulment. Wind has entirely abated.

Thursday 9th. Set off at daylight— continued a short dis*
tance under sail with a light breeze.

Several of the men are sick; one has a pleurisy, and others
slight fevers and coughs, from frequent exposure in the water.

There appears to be no hills or bluffs on the north east side,
the whole distance to the Platte.

Encamped some distance above a hill, called Voeil effroi%
from an Indian chief who was scaffolded here some years ago.

Friday \Oth. A dreadful storm raged during the whole of
last night. Set off this morning under sail, in expectation of

E Q

JOURNAL;

reaching the Platte before twelve, but in the course of an hour
it failed us, and changed to N. W. At ten, it became so violent
that we were compelled to put to shore, whbre we remained
■until towards evening, and again attempted to proceed, but find¬
ing the wind too strong, again landed and encamped, having
passed the mouth of the Platte. At the mouth of this river
there is so great a number of bars and small islands, that its
entrance is scarcely perceptible. The river enters by a number
of channels or mouths: the color of its water is the same with
that of the Missouri* The country hereabouts is entirely open,
excepting in some spots along the river, where there are
groves of cotton wood, and on the hills a few scattered dwarf
oaks.

Saturday 1 \th. The wind continues too high to proceed.
This morning we advance about three miles, and encamp until
near noon — very cold.

Set off with my gun to take a walk into the country. Tra¬
versed the prairie which had been burnt, and reached the high
land about three miles distant ; the high land rises gradually
to the height of about two hundred feet, the country then be¬
comes waving. The other side of the Missouri appears ex¬
tremely bare. I wandered towards the Platte, or rather to the
point of the upland between this river and the Missouri*
which commands a very extensive prospect. I discovered a
great extent of open country, gently rising grounds, with a
soil every where extremely rich. The Platte is full of islands
and sand bars, and appears as wide as the Missouri, On my re¬
turn, I saw several Indian mounds.

On reaching camp I found that the wind had abated, and
that the river was rising fast.

The river Platte is regarded by the navigators of the Mis¬
souri as a point of as much importance, as the equinoctial line
amongst mariners. All those who had not passed it before,
were required to be shaved, unless they could compromise the
matter by a treat. Much merriment was indulged on the oc¬
casion. From this we enter what is called the Upper Missouri.
Indeed {.he change is perceptible and great.

JOURNAL,

y. > •

CHAPTER IV,

Sunday 1 2th, Weather pleasant— i-the river rising rapidly
the drift wood descends in great quantities, and the current %
seems to augment every moment. This may possibly be the
annual flood. We were enabled to ascend the greater part of
this morning with the towing line.

In the afternoon, some distance above the old Otto village,
S. W. side, I went on shore, and wandered several miles
through shrubby hills, and saw several elk and deer, without
being able to approach them. Towards evening I entered a
charming prairie, and of the richest soil. Followed a rivulet
until it formed a lake in the river bottom, its banks for six or
eight feet a rich black earth. In pursuing the upland 1 might
have fallen upon the Missouri six miles above, in the distance
of a mile, the river forming here a considerable bend. The
prairies or meadows to the water’s edge, enabled us to continue
the greater part of this day with the line,

Monday \3th. Water fallin g— r continued with the towing
line. At ten, a fine breeze springing up, hoisted sail. Passed
the river a> Boyer , and the houses of M‘Clelland, who wintered
here. Some woody country hereabouts ; but that on the upland
Is very inferior, chiefly shrubby oak. A, short distance above this
place we encountered a very difficult and rapid current, bin being
luckily a little aided by the sail, we passed tolerably well- — We
have now reached the highest point to which settlements will
probably extend on the western side for many years.

In the evening passed high clean meadows, called the Coun¬
cil Bluffs, from the circumstance of Lewis and Clark having
held a council witlq the Qtto and Missouri Indians, when as¬
cending this river. It is a beautiful place — Encamped fqjj£
miies above this place on a large sand bar. In the course of
this day found'the river crooked and narrow ; it appeared in one
place almost closed up by drift wood and sawyers.

JOURNAL.

■% Tuesday 14th. Set off with a slight breeze-— compelled by
heavy rain to put to shore for some hours, after which, continued
under a fine wind that lasted throughout the day; but from the
winding course of the river, we were not much benefitted by it.

In some of the bends of the river, the limber, principally
cotton wood, is heavy, but the prairies and upland are entirely
bare of trees. The prairies compose more than two-thirds of
the margin of the stream — the soil extremely rich : for the
three first feet, generally a light mould, another stratum is a
deep black, almost approaching the color of coal, but not hard
or stiff ; the lower stratum is marie. I have no doubt that these
natural meadows would yield surprisingly — Encamped at the
beginning of a great bend of the river, twelve miles round, and
not more than three hundred paces across.

Wednesday 1 5th Although the wind is favorably, it was
of no use to us, from the sudden turns of the river. At twelve
hoisted sail, and passed the Soldier's river, a small stream. Af-
4er doubling some points we came into a reach of some extent;
wind here became very violent, and blew almost a tempest ; with
bur sail reduced to half its size we easily encountered the
strongest current. The storm became at length so serious that
it was deemed imprudent to continue under way. The air was
darkened by clouds of sand, and we found ourselves at the up¬
per end of the reach, in the midst of sawyers and planters, our
situation dangerous in the extreme. We fortunately escaped
safely to the shore, where we remained until evening, the wind
abating we proceeded a few miles further.

Thursday 1 6th. A tremendous storm of thunder and light¬
ning last night-— being fortunately in a good harbor we suffer¬
ed hut little. Were not able to get under weigh this morning
until late. A fine serene morning, strangely contrasted with
the turbulence of last night. Came in sight of the hills S W.
ey^ry one bitterly regretting that the wind of yesterday could not
serve us here, where there is a view of twelve miles up the riv-
Or There appears to reign an unusual calm, the sky cloudless,
the liver as smooth as a mirror. Words cannot convey wh ;t I
feel, and it is only the lover of nature who could understand

JOURNAL,

229

The points are tolerably wooded— At the upper end of the
long reach we saw an encampment of Hunt, where there were
appearances of his having remained one or two days. The bones
of buffaloe which they had killed were strewed about. If it be
their encampment at the time we were at the river Platte, it is
not more than six days since they were here. The reaches be¬
fore described are now rarely seen — the woods more free from
undergrowth. Encamped before sunset on a sand bar below la
coupe o' & Oise Lie.

Friday 1 1th. A charming morning— slight indication of
wind from the S. E. Passed la coupe a' UOiselle. This name
originated, in the circumstance of a trader having made a nar¬
row escape, being in the river at the very moment that this cut¬
off was forming. It was a bend of fifteen miles round, and per¬
haps not more than a few hundred yards across, the neck, which
was suddenly cut through by the river, became the main chan¬
nel. This was effected in a few hours.

While remaining a short time at a sand bar in the river, a
curious phenomenou occurred; the sand began to dissolve, and
every instant to diminish like the melting of snow, it was
thought prudent to embark immediately. This I am inform¬
ed is not unfrequent. Bars are sometimes formed during the
continuance of a single flood, but being principally of loose sand,
without any thing to unite, as soon as the waters begin to rise
again, is entirely carried off.

At ten passed a similar cut-off called la coupe as Jacque. At
twelve continued under sail, made several long reaches— pass¬
ed the Yellow banks, and encamped within a few miles of the
Black-bird hill. Throughout this day the river border is chief¬
ly wood.

Saturday 1 Sth. A fine breeze S. W. — At seven arrived at
the Black-bird hill. As this is one of the curiosities of the Mis¬
souri. a description may be amusing. It rises on the common
range to the height of four or five hundred feet. The Missou¬
ri at its base, begins a strange winding course, several times re¬
turning upon its steps, and at length coming within nine hun¬
dred yards of where it is first approached; so that in a course of
thirty miles the Black-bird hill is still near us. It takes its name

230 JOURNAL.

from a celebrated chief of the Mahas, who caused himself to be
interred on the top : a mound has been erected on the pinnacle,
with a branch stuck in it, a flag was formerly attached to it—
He was buried, sitting erect on horse back; the reason why he
chose this spot, was to enable him to see the traders as they as¬
cended. This chief was as famous in his lifetime amongst all
the nations in this part of the world, as Tamerlane or Bajazet
were in the plains of Asia; a superstitious awe is still paid to his
grave. Yet, the secret of his greatness was nothing more nor
less than a quantity of arsenic, which he procured from some
trader. He denounced death against any one who displeased
him, or opposed his wishes : it is therefore not surprising, that
he, who held at his disposal the lives of others, should possess
unlimited power, and excite universal terror. The proud sa¬
vage. whenever this terrible being appeared, rendered the ho¬
mage of a slave. The gods and heroes of antiquity, were, per¬
haps, little better. W e may learn this lesson, that ignorant and
savage man, can only be ruled through the means of fear.

At four o’clock, got through the last bend, and hoisted sail,
wi h a fine wind— sailed along some hills, S. W. side, and en¬
camped amongst some cotton wood, in a low bottom.

Sunday 19 th. Continued our voyage this morning at day¬
light, with sanguine expectations of overtaking the party of Hunt,
at the Maha village. Passed the bluff’s ; some of them very cu¬
rious, faced with a sand rock, of variegated and fantastic hues; at
the first glance, it resembles the decorations of a theatre. Con¬
tinued with little interruption, under sail, and arrived about
twelve at some trading houses, near which, the Maha village k
situated, about two miles from the river. We saw a few Indi¬
ans on the bank, and several traders with them, men who were
on the point of setting off with their peltries. Hunt set out from
this on the 15th, under sail.

Remaining here as short a time as possible, we continued our
voyage, having sent our interpreter and an Indian, by land, to
the Poncas, to request Hunt to wait for us. The wind continu¬
ed until towards evening, when it gradually died aw’ay. En¬
camped near Floyd’s bluff, and river, fourteen miles above the

JOtfRNALi

231

Mahas. Sergeant Floyd, one of the party of Lewis and Clark,
was buried here : the place is marked by a cross.

The appearance of the river is much changed — it continues
a handsome width, with a diminished current. The banks low,
and the trees much smaller in size ; we now rarely see a large
tree. The bluffs and upland on the N. E. side, are not high,
and without any appearance of trees and shrubs.

Mondaij 20th. Passed at daylight, the Great Sioux rive£,
which takes its rise in the plains, between the Missouri, and the
waters of lake Winipec; it is five or six hundred miles in,
length. I ascended the bluffs, high clay banks of sixty, or an
hundred feet. The current is nere very strong. Hailed a tra¬
der, descending in a large canoe, made of skins of the buffaloe,
upwards of twenty feet in length, who wintered at the river
av Jaque. He met Hunt eight leagues below that river, proceed¬
ing with a fair wind, and is by this time, at the Qui Courre.—
These skin canoes are stretched over the red willow, and re¬
quire to be frequently exposed to the sun, and dried, as they
would otherwise become too heavy, from the quantity of water
absorbed. We are now nearly half way to the place of our des¬
tination.

Perceive a sudden rise of the water. Sand bars are nearly
all covered, and banks, in places, overflown.

Tuesday 2 Ur. This morning fine, though somewhat cool.
Wind increasing from the N. E. Current rapid, but for the
eddies in the bends, it would be almost impossible to ascend.- —
There are but few embarras, or collections of trees, Sec. The
sand bars are fringed with a thick growth of willows, immedi¬
ately behind which, there are young cotton wood trees, forming
a handsome natural avenue, twenty or thirty feet wide. The
banks are very low, and must be inundated every season.

Passed in the evening, a rapid, of frightful appearance, the
water foaming and rolling in waves, as if agitated by violent
wind in the middle of the river, while on either side it was calm.
We were compelled to pass along the sand bar. and through the
willows. It was with difficulty that we could obtain dry land
this evening, the water, in most places, flows into the woods.—
Ip the night, the wate£ had riseq so much, that the men Were

232 JOURNAL.

compelled to abandon their encampment, and sleep 6n board.-*-'
Very little prairie in the course of this day, but the timber of a
small size.

Wednesday 22 d. A delightful day— the water has risen to
its utmost height, and presents a vast expanse— the current
uniformly rapid, in some places rolling with the most furious
and terrific violence. One of these places, below Vermillion
Ci’eek, was sufficient to appal the stoutest heart : the river forms
an elbow at the termination of some bluffs, the water, compress*
ed between them and the sand bar, dashes against the opposite
rocks. The middle of the river appeared several feet higher
than the sides. The distance to cross, before we could reach
the opposite eddy, was not more than twice the length of the
boat, but we were not able completely to effect it, being swept
down with the rapidity of flight, but fell into the current of the
opposite side, before it had gained its full force, and were able*
with great difficulty, to gain the eddy.

The high waters enable us to cut off points, which is no
small saving of the distance. The water begins to fall, though
great quantities of drift wood descend, and thirty or forty dro wn¬
ed buffaloes pass by every day.

I observe a much greater variety of trees and shrubs, than
below, and some altogether new to me. There is a shrub which
the French call graisse de boeuf, bearing a red berry, of a pun¬
gent taste; its leaves, though smaller and more delicate, bear, a
resemblance to those of a pear tree. In the hollows, clumps of
trees are usually found, but what surprises me, they are very
low, though some of the oaks and ash are eighteen or twenty
inches in diameter, they look like orchard trees, and have much
greater resemblance to regular plantations than wild woods.

Thursday 23 d. Water falling rapidly — a fine breeze S. E„
sailed until eleven — passed the Hot, or Burning Bluffs, on the
S. W. side. Here I observed enormous masses of pumice, and
other matter, which appeared to have undergone the action of
heat, of a very high degree. I saw what was the fragment of a
hill, the greater part at present composed of pumice. From not
... toeing' able to discover dther volcanic appearances, I conclud-'

JOURNAL.

ed these appearances to have been produced by the burning of
coal.

About noon, espied a number of persons oti a feand bar, which
we at first supposed to be Indians, but on a nearer approach, re*
cognized to be whites, amongst them, a Mons. Benit, factor of
the Missouri company, at the Mandan village. These men
Were descending in a small boat, with some peltries. He tells
us that the Indians are ill disposed to the whites, every where
on the Missouri. Mr. Henry is in a distressed situation Over
the Rocky mountains. The Crow Indians are supposed to be
inimical^-and the Sioux have broken out into open hostilities,
and have killed several of the whites. Mr. Benit and crew
were fired upon last night, by what they supposed to be Sioux?
and returned it. They did not see the boats of Hunt.

Proceeded on our voyage at three o’clock, not a little dis¬
heartened at this intelligence. Mr. Benit and one other of the
company return with us. Passed some beautiful Upland N. E.
side, but without wood, ah immense level plain stretches out, I
am informed, for about an hundred miles. W e observed a Sioux: .
lodge or teht, of a conical shape;, made of skins — it appears to be
the custom of these people, to leave their dead in lodges of
this kind, until it be convenient for them to gather up their
remains.

Friday 24<th. Set off early— -weather warm. The Water is
falling very fast — there is still a very strong current. Passed
bluffs of a chalky appearance, perhaps limestone. A piece of ice
_ floated by us this morning, probably from the breaking up of some
of the northern rivers, which have contributed to the present rise*
In putting off from a bluff on the S. W. side, to cross over, my
attention was called to an object which attracted the notice of
the company. A huge buffaloe bull ihade his appearance on the
top of the bluff, standing almost at the edge of the precipice, and
looking down upon us. It was the first we had seen. Long and
xnatted wool hung over his head, and covered his huge shoulders,
While his body was smooth, as also the tail, except a tuft at the
end. It was a striking and terrific object: he eyed us with the
ferocity of the lion, seemed at length to “ snuff the tainted gale**'
threw his head into the air? wheeled round? and trotted off

f f

JOURNAL,

234

Had a fine breeze towards evenings— which enabled us to
make five or six miles more than we expected.

.. Saturday 25th. This morning ran a ground, and were de¬
tained several hours. Passed the river a' Jaque; the principal
.rendezvous of the traders with the Yankton Sioux. It is a large
handsome stream* tolerably well suited for a small settlement.

It is becoming very warm. Went out on a delightful prai¬
rie, the grass short, of a deep blue, and intermixed with a great
v. iety of beautiful flowers I am forbidden to wander far, on
account of the Indians, who it is thought may be near. We
discovered this morning, a great deal of smoke up the river—
we supposed this to be a notification of the Indian spies, of our
approach. We are now in the open country— no woods are to
be seen, except some slender cotton wood trees in the points,
and some clumps in the hollows of the upland. The beauty of
the scenery, this evening, exceeds any thing I ever beheld —
The sky as clear as in a Chinese painting, the.country delightful.
Convert the most beautiful parts of England, or France, into
one meadow, leaving a trifling proportion of wood, and some
idea may be formed of this. But there appears to be a painful
void-something wanting— it can be nothing else than a popula¬
tion of animated beings. It were vain to describe the melancholy
silence which reigns over these vast plains. Yet they seem to
give a spring to the intellectual faculties. One never feels his
understanding so vigorous, or thinks so clearly . Were it safe,
with what delight would 1 roam over these lovely meads !

The water has fallen, and the current is much lessened.

Sunday 26 th, ^At daylight, discovered a canoe descending
with two men, who- prove to be those sent by us, to Hunt. They
bring information that he has agreed to wait for us at the Poncas
village, where he intends to remain some days.

Saw some buffaloe to day, and with Mr. Lisa, went several
miles in pursuit of them, but without success.

Passed a beautiful island JJi sle a> bon Homme , upon which
there is the remains of an ancient fortification. In the evening
our hunter killed a buffaloe, upon which we all feasted.

Monday 27 th. Had to oppose a contrary wind, until eleven.
At one, arrived at the Poncas village, where we remained until

JOURNAL,

2s?5.

live. On our approach, we found the whole village crowded on
the bunk, and several hud waded up to the waist in the water.—
The greater part of the men were naked; the women and chil¬
dren filthy and disgusting. According to custom, had a talk with
the chiefs, to whom we made some trifling presents. Hunt had
not waited for us, according to promise. Saw two men, who had
probably deserted from him, they informed us, that as soon as
he heard of our approach, which was quite unexpected, he had
determined to exert himself to the utmost, to get out of our
reach. The fact is, there does not exist the greatest confidence
between the two commanders. Ours seems to think, that it is
the intention of Hunt, to pass the Sioux, who may wish to de¬
tain him, by telling them that their trader is coming on with
goods for them. While on the other hand, Hunt may believe
that Lisa intends to pass him, and tell the same story. It is
therefore determined to push our voyage, if possible* still more
than before.

Encamped above the Qui Courre river — a most beautiful
country, but very little wood. The country is much more
hilly.

Tuesday 2 8(h. Weather smoky, and extremely warm. High
land on both sides of the river, with some dwarf trees in the
hollows, principally cedar. At ten, a fine breeze springing up,
we continued under sail the rest of the day, and the greater part,
of the night, determining to strain every nerve, in order to
overtake Hunt. There is scarcely any bottoms from the Qui
Courre.

Wednesday 29th. After lying by a few hours, at one o’clock,
again continued under sail — but the moon disappearing, and it
becoming dark, it was thought advisable to lie by untii daylight.
The hills hereabout, high and broken, and little or no river
bottom on'either side. At two o’clock, arrived at a beautiful
island, called Little Cedar island, on which grows fine cedar,
the trees uncommonly large. This is a delightful spot, the soil
of the island is rich, and it may contain about three thousand
acres— the middle of the island is a beautiful prairie— the adja¬
cent country is bleak and barren. At the point of t lie island,
discovered an encampment of Hunt, and on examination, we

236

JOURNAL.

discovered, to the great joy of the company, that the fir©
was not yet extinguished ; it is therefore but a few clays since
they were here. Continued under sail until 1 1 at night, having
in little better than twenty-four hours, made s6venty-five miles.'

Thursday 3C )th. This morning, favored with a continuance
of fair wind. The country is exceedingly rough and br©**
ken — the greater part without the least vegetation. The hills
have a very singular appearance. Near the top they look blacky
and seem to have been burnt. About noon? saw some tracks?
which we supposed to be of yesterday.

In the evening, passed a very fine river, called White river?
about three hundred yards at the mouth. Here there is some
bottom land, and wpod points; the hills poyered with grass.-—.
Heard several gun shots, which we supposed to have been from
the party of Hunt. This evening the wind abated-

Friday 3UL This morning? a contrary wind, and some rain.,
proceeded with the cordelle. In the course of the day, saw a
large flock of antelopes— they appear to be numerous in this
part of the country. Observed in the sand, a number of Indian
tracks, and a place, where it appeared that the boats of Mr Hunt
had stopped witfi the Indians some time. One of our meii
discovered a curious place, contrived by the Indians, for taking
fish ; it was something like a fish basket— we found two fine
catfish in it.

When about to put into the river, to cross to a point, we dis¬
covered three buffaioe, swimming towards us, and contrary tq
the precautions we had agreed to observe, in making no noise?
least we should be discovered by the Indians, who were probably
In the neighborhood, a firing was commenced upon the poor
animals, which continued half an hour. The report of the guns,
as might have been foreseen, brought an Indian to the top of the
bill, but we were too fiir in the river, to return to him, or to be
beard.

Towards evening, the boat having yeceived some injury, was
compelled to stop — went in pursuit of a buffaioe calf — on my
return found the party somewhat uneasv on account of the
length of my stay? having been drawn by the eagerness pf pur¬
suit to a considerable distance.

JOURNAL.

2 ST

Saturday , June Is/. At daylight heard a number of guns
fired on the hills below us on the other side of the river. We
now concluded that all our precaution and labor had been vain.
That we should be robbed and killed, or at least compelled to
return. They soon arrived opposite to us, with an American
flag, and fired one or two guns. There was but one thing to
be done, which was to cross over to them at once, and meet the
worst, every man preparing himself for defence. Each rower
had his gun by his side — Mr. Lisa and myself, besides our knives
and rifles, had each one a pair of pistols in our belts. On reach¬
ing the shore we discovered twelve or thirteen Indians on a log.
Mr. Lisa and I, leaped on shore and shook hands with them,—
We supposed that the principal body was concealed behind in
the woods, so as to be at hand if necessary./ Having no inter¬
preter at this critical juncture, we were fearful of not being un¬
derstood : however, with the aid of signs, a language with which
Mr Lisa was well acquainted, he was enabled to communicate
tolerably well. He told them that he was their trader, but that
he had been very unfortunate, all the peltries which he had col¬
lected amongst them having been burnt, and his young men, who
had passed 2 years before to go to the head of the Missouri, were
Attacked and distressed by the Indians of those parts, who are bad
people. That he was now poor, and much to be pitied; that he
was going to bring back his young men, having resolved to con¬
fine himself to the lower country He concluded, by telling them
that he intended to return in three months to establish a trading
house at the Cedar island, and requested the chief to send word
of it to all the Sioux bands. This story, together with a hand¬
some present, produced the desired effect, though not without
some reluctance. We remained here as short a time as possi¬
ble, and ye-crossed the riyer. The chief is a fine looking Indi¬
an, the others were very young men, nearly paked, with long
braids of hair hanging down their foreheads ; they are the best
looking people I have seen. It is two days since Hunt passed
here. W e did not cease to use every exertion, considering it still
possible that we might be stopped. f

About twelve reached the grfeat bend, twenty-ope miles
around, and only one and an half across. Two men were sent to

238

JOURNAL.

notify the boats of our near approach. In the evening a strong
wind from the N E. which would -hardly have been favorable
in any other part of the river, enabled us to hoist sail, and what
is singular, continued changing to suit the running of the river.
We by this means made fifteen miles — some part of the time
it blew with violence, accompanied by rain.

Sunday 2 d. Set out with my gun early this morning, on the
S. W. side of the river — walked about four miles along the riv¬
er hills, and with much satisfaction perceived at a distance the
boats of Mr. Hunt 1 returned immediately to give the joyful
intelligence to our people. On coming opposite the place
where 1 had seen the boats, we discovered a great number of
Indians, who beckoned to us to cross; but supposing them to be
Sioux we determined to continue on until we should overtake
the party before us. We suffered them to shout, to galh p their
horses, and to wave their robes unnoticed. Some distance above,
our men came to us, they had been with Hunt, the Indians we
had just past, were a party of three hundred Arikaras, who,
on hearing of our approach, had come for the purpose of ena¬
bling us to ascend. It appears also, that we have passed all the
Sioux bands, who had been seen by Hunt, but probably finding*
bis party too strong, they had resolved to stop and plunder ours,
that we must have past them in the night or under sail, as they
did not expect to hear from us so soon.

At eleven o’clock we overtook Hunt’s party, to the great
satisfaction of our little company. It was with real pleasure I
took my friend Bradbury by the hand; I have reason to believe
our meeting was much more cordial than that of the two com¬
manders. Continued under sail in company the rest of the day,
forming a handsome little fleet of five sail. Encamped in the
evening opposite the larger Cedar island, twelve hundred miles
from the mouth of the Missouri.

JOURNAL;

CHAPTER V.

Monday June 3d. A strong wind from the N. E. this morn¬
ing, compelied us, after proceeding a few miles, to encamp for
the remainder of the day. Took my gun, and set off to make
an excursion. The country is altogether open, excepting some
groves of cotton wood in the bottom. The upland rises into con¬
siderable hills, about one-third covered with a very short grass*
intermixed with a great variety of plants and flowers, the rest
consists of hills of clay, bare of almost every kind of vegetation.
On the tops of the higher hills, at some distance from the river,
there are masses of granite, of several tons weight, and great
quantities of pebbles. In the course of my ramble, I happened on
a village of barking squirrels, or prairie dogs, as they have been
called. My approach was announced by an incessant barking,
or rather chirping, similar to that of a common squirrel, though
much louder The village was situated on the slope of a hill, and
appeared to be at least two miles in length ; the holes were sel¬
dom at a greater distance from each other than twenty or thirty
paces. Near each hole, there was a small elevation of earth,
of six or eight inches, behind which, the little animal posted
himself, and never abandoned it, or ceased his demonstrations of
alarm, tc insignificantly fierce,” until I approached within a few
paces. As I proceeded through the village, they disappeared,
one after another, before me. There was never more than one
at each hole. I had heard that the magpie, the Missouri rattle
snake, and the horn frog, were observed to frequent these places ;
but I did not see any of them, except the magpie. The rattle
snake of the prairies, is about the same length with the common
rattle snake, but more slender, and the color white and black.

Mr. Bradbury has met with great success in his pursuit.—
He has found nearly an hundred undescribed plants. Within a
few days he has found a great number, which he calls Mexican.
The country thus far, has offered nothing remarkable as to mi¬
nerals. There is in company, a gentleman of the name of Nut *

240

JOURNAL;

tal, engaged in the same pursuits, to which he appears singular¬
ly devoted ; it seems to absorb every thought, so as to be trou-'
blesome to the company, which has some imes to wait for him 5
it appears to have done away every regard of personal safety.—
To the ignorant Canadian boatmen, who are unable to appreci¬
ate the science, it affords a subject of merriment; le foil , the
fool, is the name by which he is commonly known. No sooner
does the boat touch the shore, than he leaps out, and when his
attention is arrested by a plant or flower, every thing else is for¬
gotten. The inquiry is sometimes made, ou> eat le fou? where
is the fool ? il est ufires ramaaser des ratines , he is gathering
roots. He is a young man of genius, and very considerable ac¬
quirements, but is unfortunately too much devoted to his favor-*
ite study. A characteristic anecdote of this gentleman was re¬
lated to me, by Mr. Miller, who commanded one of the boats^,
ana shews to what an astonishing degree the pursuit of natural
history had taken possession of his mind, to the exclusion of
every thing else. The day after passing the Sioux tribes, they
met, as I have before mentioned, three hundred Arikara lndi*
ans, these were so delighted to see them, that a number rushed
into the river, to swim or wade to the boats ; the par y suppos¬
ing them to be inimical, was on the point of firing ; while every
one was in momentary expectation that this would take place,
Nuttal, who appeared to have been examining them very atten¬
tively, turned to Miller, “ sir,” said he, “ don’t you think these
Indians much fatter, and more robust than those of yesterday.”

In the course of the evening, had an opportunity of seeing
the manner in which the antelope is hunted in these open plains,
where tnere is no possibility of approaching by insidious means*
A handkerchief is placed on the end of a ramrod, and waved
in the air, the hunter lying flat on the ground. If any of the ani¬
mals be in sight, they run instantly to the place, and perform a
circuit around, approaching often within twenty or thirty yards,
which gives an opportunity of firing on them.

The party of Mr Hunt consists of about eighty men, chiefly
Canadians; the rest are American hunters.

Tuesday 4 th. Set off at seven — wind contrary, though not
so strong as yesterday. After doubling a point, we found that

jbURflrAt ,i

from the course of the river, the wind would be favorable, and
accordingly sailed for eight or ten miles. We saw at the mouth
of a small creek, a herd of buffaloes of several hundred. The
appearance of the country has varied but little for several days
past. Bleak and dreary— the bottoms harrow j in some places
none at all, and clay bluffs

Wednesday 5th. This morning* after proceeding a short
distance, we Were compelled, by rain, to put to shore, where
we remained until the afternoon, and finding no appearance of
the weather Clearing Up, crossed to the S. W. side* Where Mr.
Hunt Was encamped.

I took a walk with Mr. Bradbury— in the Course of which, I
Saw a number of antelopes, buffaloe* and villages of prairie dogs.
At some distance from the river* there is not the least appear¬
ance of a tree of shrub. The country appears to rise gradually.
There was something picturesque in the appearance of herds of
buffaloe* Slowly winding round the sides of the distant hills, dis¬
appearing in some hollow* and again emerging to view. The
Whole extent of the plain is covered with OrdUre, as iri a pas¬
ture ground. Wide and beaten roads are every where to be
Seen.

On my return, t found that a disagreeable misunderstahding
had taken place between the two. chiefs of the parties. The in¬
terpreter of Mr. Hunt, had been in the employment of the Com¬
pany, and was indebted to it Mr Lisa had several times men-*
tioned to him the impropriety of his conduct, and perhaps had
made him some offers,in order to draw him from his present ser¬
vice. This was certainly imprudent, and placed him in the power'
of a worthless fellow, who, without doubt retailed the conversa¬
tion to his master, with some additions. This evening, While in
Hunt’s camp, to which he had gone on some business, he was
grossly insulted by the interpreter, who struck him several
times, and seized a pair of pistols belonging to Hunt ; — -that gen¬
tleman did not sefem to interest himself much in the affair, being
actuated by feelings of resentment, at the attempt to inveigle his
man. On my return to our camp, 1 found Mr. Lisa furious with
rage, buckling on his knife, and preparing to return : finding that
I could not dissuade, I resolved to accompany him. It was with

g g

JOURNAL,

the greatest difficulty I succeeded in preventing the most seri¬
ous consequences. I had several times to stand between him
and the interpreter who had a pistol in each hand. I am sorry
to say, that there was but little disposition on the part of Mr.
Hunt, to prevent the mischief that might have arisen. I must, in
justice to him, declare however, that it was through him that
Mi\ M’Clelland* was induced not to put his threat in execution
having pledged his honor to that effect. I finally succeeded in
bringing Lisa off to his boat. When it is recollected that this
was at the distance of thirteen hundred miles from all civil au¬
thority, or power, it will be seen that there was but little to re*
strain the effects of animosity. Having obtained in some mea¬
sure, the confidence of Mr. Hunt, and the gentlemen Who were
with him, and Mr. Bradbury-, that of Mr. Lisa, we mutually
agreed to use all the arts of mediation in our power, and if pos¬
sible, prevent any thing serious.

Thursday 6th. Weather clearing up. The water rising very
fast-— supposed the annual flood. This morning passed the ruins
of an Indian village, there were great piles of buffaloe bones, and
quantities of earthen ware. The village appears to have been
scattered round a kind of citadel, or fortification, enclosing four
or five acres, and of an oval form. The earth is thrown up about
four fe.et, there are a few cedar palisadoes remaining. Probably,
in cases of siege, the whole village was crowded into this space.

Friday 7't/i. Continued under way as usual. All kind of in¬
tercourse between the leaders has ceased. In the' evening,
passed several olcl villages, said to be of the Arikara nation. The
bottoms, or points, become wider, and the bluffs of a less dis-
, gusting appearance ; there are but few clay hills, the country
being generally covered with grass.

Saturday 8th. Contrary wind to day — though delightful
Weather. This morning, passed a large and handsome river,

... * A mortal enmity existed on the part of Mr. M’CIelland, towards
Lisa, in consequence of some conduct of the latter, in the trade — and
he had declared, that if ever he fell in with Lisa, in the Indian country,
he would shoot him. Those who know M’Clelland, -would not be sur¬
prised that such a threat should be put in execution.

JOURNAL.

24J*

galled the Chienne, S. W. side. It appears as large at the
mouth as the Cumberland or Tennessee. Saw at this place, the
ruins of an old village, and fortification. The country here¬
abouts is fine, and better wooded than any I have seen for the
last three hundred miles. A tolerable settlement might be sup-"
ported herd. Gaihe is very abundant-elk, deer, and buffaloe,
without number.

Encamped a few miles above the Chienne river, in a beau¬
tiful bottom. No art can surpass the beauty of this spot ; trees
of different kinds, shrubs, plants, flowers, meadow, and upland,
charmingly disposed. What coolness and freshness breathes
around ! The river is bordered with cotton wood, and a few elms,
there is then an open space of 30 or 40 paces, after which begins a
delightful shrubbery of small ash trees, the graisse de boeuf, the
gooseberry, currant, Sec. forming a most delightful avenue. We
all remark, that the singing of the birds is much sweeter than
in the forest of the states. This isTancifully accounted for by
Mr. Bradbury, from the effects of society : from the scantiness
of woods, they are compelled to crowd on the same tree, and in
the same grove, and in this way, impart improvement to each
other. Assuming it as a fact, that the birds of Europe sing bet¬
ter than those of America, he asks, can it be owing to any other
reason than this ?

The musketoes have been exceedingly troublesome for se¬
veral days past. They disappear in the evenings, which are
cool, or with the slightest wind.

Sunday $th. Got under way this morning, with fine wea¬
ther. Discovered great numbers of buffaloe ; on the N. W. side,
an extensive level meadow. Numbers began to swim across
the river, as the party of Hunt, who were before us, got oppo¬
site; they waited, and killed as many as they wished; a number
which were started from an island, swam towards us, and we
killed several also.

Mr. Bradbury and I went out on the N. W. side, where the
buffaloe had been first seen, and walked several miles. A very
beautiful and extensive meadow, at least a mile wide, but with¬
out a tree or a shrub — the upland equally bare. Passed a Sioux
encampment of last fall — from appearances there must bavfc

$44

JOURNAL.

been three or four htincped here* Amongst other things, our
curiosity was attracted, by a circular space, about twenty feet in
diameter, enclosed with poles, with a post in the middle, painted
red, and at some distance, a buffaloe heacl placed upon a little
jneund qf earth. We are tokfi this is a place where, an incanta¬
tion for rendering the buffalpe plenty, had been performed. — ?
Amongst other ceremonies, the pipe is presented to the head-
At four o’clock hoisted sail with a favorable wind. Passed
a surprising number of buffaloe in the course of this day, some
herds on the sides of the hills, not less than a thousand. To¬
wards evening we saw a great number crowded on the sand
beach at the foot of an island, proceeding with caution, we ap¬
proached under sail within twenty or thirty yards, and selecting
the fattest, we fired upon him at once ; and notwithstanding that
he had received several wounds, he endeavored, to make off — -
We pursued him into the island, the animal had now become fe¬
rocious from his wounds, and it was dangerous to approach him.
It was not until he had received the contents of ten or twelve
guns, that he wgs brought to the ground The island is beau¬
tiful. It is completely surrounded by cotton wood and cedar
trees, but the space within is a, beautiful clear meadow, On
the edges of the woods in the inside, there are great quantities
of currant and gooseberry bushes ; these islands are much alike
in this respect. They are more beautiful than any I have seen.

Monday 10 th. During the whole of this day had a fine wind
which enabled us to make thirty- five miles. Encamped oppo¬
site a handsome stream, called Ser-war-cerna, N. W-

The country wears a handsome aspect; the lulls gently swell¬
ing and some, delightful prairie on the river. There is but lit¬
tle wood. In the course of the day we saw great numbers of
buffaloe, in herds of several hundred each-

Tuesday 11 th Continued our voyage with a slight wind.
The country much the saipe as that of yesterday Encamped
some distance be|ow. the island on which tne Ankara village
was situated some years ago — they have removed some miles
fuither up. This evening I went to the camp pi Mr, blunt to
make arrangements as to the manner of arriyihg at the village,
|ind of receiving th© chiefs. This |s the first time our chiefs have

JOURNAL..

24^

fiad- any intercourse directly or indirectly since the quarrel.— ?
33$ i\ Lisa appeared to be suspected, they supposed his intention
to be, to take advantage of his influence with the Ankara nation,
and do their party spine injury in revenge. X pledged myself
that this should not be the case.

Wednesday 12 th. Heavy rains accompanied by thunder an4
lightning last night.

At nine o’clock two of the chiefs, with the interpreter em¬
ployed by the company, came on board our boat. They atp
both fine looking men, much, above the common si^e, and with
much fairer complexions than any Indians I have seen. At ten
we put to shore opposite the village, in order to dry our bag-,
gage, which wa,s completely, wet. The leaders of the party of
fljun.t were still suspicious that Lisa intended to betray therms
M’Clelland deplarep that he would., shoot bipi the moment h®
discovered, apy thing like it. In the mean time, the chief spoke
across the river, which is here about a half a mile wide, we up*
derstood that he was "giving orders to prepare the council lodge.
The village appeared to occupy about three quarters of a mile
along the river bank, qn a, level plain, the country behind it rising
into hills, of considerable height. There are little or no woods
any where to be seen. The lodges are of a conical shape, and
look like heaps of earth. A great number of horses are seen
feeding in the plains around, and on the sides of the hills. I
espied a, number of squaws, in canoes, descending the river and
landing at the village. The interpreter informed me, that they
were returning home with wood. These canoes are made of a
single buffaloe hide, stretched over osiers, and are of a circular
form. There was but one woman in each canoe, who kneeled
down, and instead of paddiing sideways, places the paddle before ;
the load is fastened to the canoe. The water being a little rough
these canoes sometimes almost disappeared between the waves,
which produced a curious effect; the squaws with the help of a

little fancy, might be supposed, mermaids sporting on the bil-
* t
lows ; the canoe rising and sinking with them, while the women

were visible from the waist upwards.

About two o’clock fourteen of us crossed over, and accom¬
panied the chief to his lodge. Mats were laid around for us fo

2'46

■JOURNAL.,

sit on, while he placed himself on a kind of stool or bench. TheL
pipe was handed around, and smoked ; after which, the herald,
(every chief or great man, has one of them) ascended the top of
the lodge and seated himself near an open place, and began to
bawl out like one of our town criers ; the chief every now and
then addressing something to him through the aperture before
mentioned. We soon discovered the object of this, by the ar¬
rival of the other chiefs, who seemed to drop in, one after the
other, as their names were called.

When all were seated, the pipe was handed to the chief, who
began as is usual on solemn occasions, by blowing a whiff up¬
wards as it were to the sky, them to the earth, and after to the
east and west, after which the pipe was sent round. A mark of
respect in handing the pipe to another, is to hold it until the
person has taken several whiffs. After this ceremony, Mr,
Lisa addressed a speech to the chiefs, in which, after the com¬
mon place which would be expected, he observed, that the stran¬
gers in company with him were going a long journey to the
great Salt lake to the west, and ought to be treated well, that
any injury done to them, he should consider as done to himself;
that in this respect they were as one people. A number of
speeches were as usual made on the occasion. The chief on the
proposal of trading, required time to give an answen—with this
the council concluded. The boats were ordered over, and en¬
camped a little distance below the village. A guard of Indian
warriors was placed to keep off the populace and prevent pil¬
fering.

JOURNAL,

*■ 'a ■

CHAPTER VI.

Thursday 13 th. This morning, found ourselves completely
drenched by heavy rains, which continued the whole night. The
chief has hot given his answer as to the conditions of the trade.
It is for him, usually to fix the price, on a consultation with his
subordinate chiefs, to this, the whole village must conform.— *
The Indian women and girls, were occupied all this morning,
in carrying earth in baskets, to replace that which the rains had
washed off their lodges. Rambled through the village, which I
found excessively filthy, the <■ villainous smells,’ which every¬
where assailed me, compelled me at length, to seek refuge in
the open plain. The lovers of Indian manners, and mode of liv¬
ing, should contemplate them at a distance. The rains had ren¬
dered their village little better than a hog pen ; the police ap¬
peared to me, in some particulars , extremely negligent. Some
of the ancient cities of the old world, were probably like this
village, inattentive to that cleanliness so necessary to health,
where a great mass of beings are collected in one place;
and we need not be surprised at the frequency of desolating
plagues and pestilence. The village is swarming with dogs
and children. I rank these together, for they are inseparable
companions. Wherever I went, the children ran away, scream¬
ing, and frightened at my outr6 and savage appearance. Let
us not flatter ourselves with the belief, that the effect of our ci¬
vilization and refinement, is to render us agreeable and lovely
to the eyes of those whom we exclusively denominate savages !
The dogs, of which every family has thirty or forty, pretended
to make a show of fierceness, but on the least threat, ran off—
They are of different sizes and colors. A number are fattened
on purpose to eat, others are used to draw their baggage.—
It is nothing more than the domesticated wolf. In wandering
through the prairies, I have often mistaken wolves for Indian
dogs. The larger kind has long curly hair, and resembles the
shepherd dog. There is the same diversity amongst the wolves

ms JOtlRNAIh

of this country. They may be more properly said to bowl thatf
bark.

The lodges are constructed in the following manner: Four
large forks of about fifteen feet in height, are placed in the
ground, usually about twenty feet from each other, with hewn
logs, or beams across ; from these beams, other pieces of wood*
are placed slanting; smaller pieces are placed above, leaving an
aperture at the top, to admit the light, and to give vent to the
smoke. These.upright pieces are interwoven with osiers, .after
which, the Whole is covered with earth, though not sodded. An
opening is left at one side, for a door, which is secured by a
kind of projection of ten or twelve feet, enclosed on all sides*
and forming a narrow entrance, which might be easily defended.
A buffaloe robe suspended at the entrance, answers as a door.
The fire is made in a hole in the ground, directly under the
aperture at the top. Their beds elevated a few feet, are placed
around the lodge, and enclosed with curtains of dressed elk skinsi
At the upper end of the lodge, there is a kind of trophy erect¬
ed; two buffaloe heads, fantastically painted, are placed on a lit¬
tle elevation ; over them are placed, a variety cf consecrated
things, such as shields, skins of a rare or valuable kind, and
quivers of arrows. The lodges seem placed at random, without
any regularity or design, and are so much alike, that it wav for
some time before I could learn to return to the same one. The
village is surrounded by a palisade of cedar poles, but in a very
bad state. Around the village, there are little plats enclosed
by stakes, intwined with osiers, iti which they cultivate maize*
tobacco, and beans ; but their principal field is at the distance of
a mile from the village* to which, such of the females whosu
duty it is to attend to their culture, go and return morning and
evening. Around the village they have buffaloe rob :s stuck up
cm high pole's. I saw one so arranged as to bear a resemblance
to the human figure, the hip bone of the buffaloe represented
the Lead, the sockets of the thigh bones looked like eyes.

Friday 14 th. It rained again last night, which prevented
the trade from commencing until somofime in the day. Mr.
Lisa sent a quantity of goods to the lodge of the principal chief
before mentioned, called le Gauehee, and Hunt to the one who

accompanied him to meet us, le Gros , the principal war chief.
The price of a horse was commonly ten dollars worth of goods
first cost. Hunt had resolved to purchase horses at this place
and proceed by land to the Columbia, being assured by some
hunters, who met him before his arrival here, that this would
iae his best route.

Mr. Bradbury and I, took a walk into the upper village?
which is separated from the lower by a stream about twenty
yards wide — -Entered several lodges, the people of which re¬
ceived us with kindness, placed mats and skins for us to sit on,
and after smoking the pipe* offered us something to eat 5 this
consisted of fresh buffaloe meat served in a wooded dish.— -
They had a variety of earthen vessels, in which they prepared
their food, or kept water. After the meatjthey offered us horn-
ony made of eorn dried in the milk, mixed with beans, which
was prepared with buffaloe marrow, and tasted extremely well;
also pounded and made into gruel. The prairie turnip, is a root
very common in the prairies, with something of the taste of the
turnip, but more dry ; this they eat dried and pounded, made in¬
to gruel. Their most common food is homony and dried buf¬
faloe meat. In one of the lodges which we visited, we found
the doctor, who was preparing some medicine for a sick lad.—
Pie was cooling with a spoon a decoction of some roots, which
had a strong taste and smell, not unlike jalap. He showed us
a variety of simples which he used. The most of them were
common plants with some medicinal properties, but rather
harmless than otherwise. The boy had a slight pleurisy. The
chief remedy for their diseases, which they conceive to be ow¬
ing to a disorder of the bowels, is rubbing the belly and sides of
the patient, sometimes with such violence, as to cause fainting^
When they become dangerous, they resort to charms and incan¬
tations, such as singing, dancing, blowing on the siek, See. They
are very successful in the treatment of wounds. When the*
wound becomes very obstinate, they commonly burn it, after
"which it heals more easily.

Saturday 1 5th. Fine weather— Took a walk with Mr. Brad¬
bury through the country, which is entirely open, and some-*
What hilly. Large masses of granite were usually found on th§

h h

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£50

highest knobs. We saw a great variety of plants, and some
new ones — T)ne or two of. the Tallies are beautiful, and a few
dwarf plum trees- scattered along a rivulet.

-On- our -return in the evening, an alarm prevailed in -the -vil¬
lage, -’which appeared to be ail in commotion. We Were inform¬
ed that the Sioux, their enemies, were near. This was proba¬
bly all preconcerted. I was-shewn, at the distance of about two
miles, four horsemen on the top of a hill, at full gallop, passing
and re-passing each other ; this I understand is the signal given
by the scouts, some of whom are constantly on the alert, of the
approach of an enemy. To give intelligence of the appearance
of a herd of buff aloe, instead of crossing each other, they gallop
backward and forward abreast. Presently the warriors issued
from the village with great noise and tumult, some on foot,
ethers on horse back, and pursued the direction in which the
signals were made, down the river, and past an encampment.
They observed no regular march, but ran helter skelter, like per¬
sons in one of our towns to extinguish a fire* — and keeping up*a
continued hallooing to encourage each other. Some of them
were dressed in their most splendid manner. The tops of the
lodges were crowded with women and children, and with the
old men who could give no assistance, but by their lungs, which
-were kept busily employed: yet there were several who sullied
forth, almost half Tent with the weight of years. I counted up¬
wards of five hundred in all. They soon after returned ; whether
they had chased away the enemy, or the alarm had turned out
false, I never learned.

Sunday 1 6th. In the course of the day several parties ar¬
rived from different directions. According to custom they were
met by warriors and conducted to the council lodge, where they
gave an account of what had occurred, which was afterwards an¬
nounced to the village by heralds. These contribute to enli¬
ven the village’; 'though independent, they continually present
a busy and animated scene. Great numbers of men are engag¬
ed in the different games of address and agility, others judg¬
ing, or looking on, and many employed in a variety of other
ways. There are a greaKnurnber of women constantly at work
$n dressing buffaloe robes, which are placed on frames before

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the lodges. One of the parties which arrived to daw, came from
the Snake nation, where they had stolen horses* This* arrested
their employments for a moment, the immediate friends and re¬
lations of such as returned, spent the evening in rejoicing, while
several females who had lost a relation, retired to the' hills be¬
hind the village, where they continued to cry the whole after-
iioon.

In the evening they usually coUect'on the tops of the lodges,
where they sit and converse ; every now ahd then the- attention
of all was attracted by some old men who rose up and declaim¬
ed aloud, so as to be heard over the whole village. There was
something in this like a- quake r meeting. Adair i labors to prove
the Indian tribes to be descended from tlie - Jetts,- 1-miglit here
adduce this as an argument in favor of these people being a co¬
lony of qitakers. .

Monday \1th. This day arrived a deputation- from the- Chi-
enne nation, to announce that these people1 were on their march
to this village, and would be here in fifteen days. I sometimes
amused myself with the idea of forming a gazette of the daily
occurrences. We here see an independent nation, with all the
interests and anxieties of the largest: how little would its histo¬
ry differ from that, of one of the Grecian states ! A1 war, a trea¬
ty, deputations sent and received, warlike - excursions, national
mourning or rejoicing, and a thousand other particulars, which
constitute the chronicle of the most celebrated people.

In the evening, about sundown, the women cease from their
labors, and collect into little knots, and amuse themselves with
a game something like jack-stones: five pebbles are tossed -up
in a small basket, with which they endeavor to catch them again
as they fall.

T-u-csdaij 1-8/A. Confidence had heeh somewhat restored be¬
tween the leaders of the two parties since the council in the* vil¬
lage. Mr. Hupt having resolved to start from this village, a
bargain was made with Mr Lisa, for the sale of Hunt’s boats and
some merchandise ; in consequence of which, we crossed the
river, in order to make the exchange, after which we- returned
and encamped. We are to set off’ to-morrow morning to the.
Mandan villages. •

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Before I bid adieu to Ankara, I must note some general
patters relating to heir character and manners.

The men are large and well proportioned, complexion some-
what fairer than Indians commonly are. Generally go naked ;r
the dress they sometimes put on, seems more for ornament than
any advantage it is to theip ; this consists of a sort of cassoc or
shirt, made of the dressed skin of the antelope, and ornamented
wjth porcupine quills, died a variety of colors ; a pair of leggings,
which are ornamented in the same way. A buifaloe hide dressed
with the hair on, is then thrown over the right shoulder, the
Quiver being hung op the other, if he be armed with a bow.*— ~
They generally permit their hair to grow long; I have, in one
pr two instances, seen it reach to their heels: they sometimes
increase it by artificial means; commonly with horse hair. It is
divided into a number of locks, matted at intervals, with a braid
of white earth, a substance resembling putty. Sometimes it is
rolled up in a ball, and fixed on the top of the head. They ah?
w^ys have a quantity of feathers about them ; those of the black
eagle are most esteemed. They have, a kind of crown made of
►feathers, such as we see represented in the usual paintings of
Indians, vyhich is very beautiful. The swan is in most estima°
tion for this purpose. Some ornament the neck with necklace
made of the claws of the white bear. To their heels they some¬
times fasten foxes’ tails, and on their leggings suspend deers-
hoofs, so as to make a rattling noise as they walk. On seeing a
warrior dressed out in all this finery, walking with his wife, who
was comparatively plain in her dress or ornaments, I could not
but think this was following the order of nature, as in the pea¬
cock, the stag, apd almost all animals, the male is lavishly deco¬
rated, while the female is plain and unadorned. I intend this as*a
hint to some of our petit maitres, The dress of the female con¬
sists of a long robe made of the dressed skins, oi the elk, the ante¬
lope, or the agolja, and ornamented with blue be^ds, and strips
of ermine, or in its place, of some white skin. The robe is gird-

* A warrior is Seldom seen without his arms, even in the village. — -
His bow. spear, or gun, is considered part pf his dress, and to appear in
public without them, is in some measure disgracefi/h

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253:

.,e<3 round the waist with a broad zone, highly ornamented with
porcupine quills, and beads. They are no better off than were
the Greeks and Romans, in what we deem at present so essen¬
tial, but like them, they bathe themselves regularly, twice a day.
The women are much fairer than the men ; some might be con¬
sidered handsome any where— they are much more nume¬
rous than the men, the consequence of the wars in which the
nation is constantly engaged. Polygamy is general, they have
often four or five wives. Their courtship and marriage resem¬
ble that of most Indian nations: if the parties are mutually
agreeable to each other, there is a consultation of the family, if
this be also favorable, the father of the girl, or whoever gives
her in marriage, makes a return for the present he had previous¬
ly received from the lover — the match is then concluded

They display considerable ingenuity of taste in their works
of art: this observation applies to all the American nations, from
the Mexicans to the most savage. Their arms, household uten¬
sils, and their dresses, are admirably made. I saw a gun which
had been completely stocked by an Indian. A curious instance
of native ingenuity which came under my notice, ought not to b$
omitted. I was told one day, of an old Indian who was making
a blanket ; I immediately went to see him. To my surprise, I
found an old man, perfectly blind, seated on a stool before a kind
of frame, over which were drawn coarse threads, or rather
tv/ists of buffaloe wool, mixed with wolf’s hair; he had already
made about a quarter of a yard of a very coarse rough cloth.—
He told me that it was the first he had attempted, and that it was
in consequence of a dream, in which he thought he had made a
blanket like those of the white people. Here are the rudiments
jef weaving. They make beautiful jugs or baskets with osier,
so close as to hold water.

I observed some very old men amongst them — the country
is so extremely healthy, that they arrive to a very great age.—
About twenty years ago, the small pox destroyed a great num¬
ber of them. One day, in passing through the village, I saw
something brought out of a lodge in a buffaloe robe, and expos¬
ed to the sun ; on approaching, I discovered it to be a human
being, but so shrivelled up* that h had nearly lost the human

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physiognomy : 'almost the only sign of life discernible, was a;
continual sucking its hands. On inquiring of the chief, he told
me, that he had seen it so ever since he was a boy. He appear¬
ed to be at least forty-dye. It is almost impossible to ascertain
the age of an Indian when he is above sixty ; I made inquiries
of several, who appeared to me little short of an hundred,
but could form no satisfactory conjecture, blindness is very'
common, arising probably from the glare of the snow, during
a great part of the year. I observed the goitre, or swelled neck,
in a few instances-.

Their government is oligarchical, but great respect is paid
to popular opinion. It is utterly impossible to be a great man
amongst them, without being a distinguished, warrior, though
respect is paid to birth, but this must be accompanied by other
merit, to procure much influence. They are divided into dif¬
ferent bands or classes; that of the pheasant, which is compos¬
ed of the oldest men ; that of the bear, the buffaloe, the elk, the
dog, &c. Each of these has its leader, who generally takes the
name of the class, exclusively. Initiation into these classes, on
arriving to the proper age, and after having given proofs of be¬
ing worthy of it, is attended with great ceremony. The band of
dogs, is considered the most brave and effective in war, being
composed of young men under thirty. War parties are usually
proposed by some individual warrior, and according to the con¬
fidence placed in him, his followers are numerous or otherwise.
In these excursions they wander to a great distance, seldom
venturing to return home without a scalp, or stolen horses. — :
Frequently when unsuccessful, they « cast their robes,” as they
express it, and vow to kill the first person they meet, provided
he be not of their own nation. In crossing the river, they useN.
canoes made of the buffaloe hide, or a few pieces of wood fas¬
tened together. They usually have some token, as a stake,
which is marked so as to convey some idea of their numbers,
the direction which they have taken, 8cc. To avoid surprise,
they always encamp at the edge of a wood; and when the party
is small, they construct a kind of fortress, with wonderful expe¬
dition, of billets of wood, apparently piled up in a careless man¬
ner, but so arranged as to be very strong, and are able to with'?

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255

stand an assault from a much superior force. They are excel¬
lent horsemen — ihey will shout an arrow at full speed- and again
-pick it up from ihe ground without stopping: sometimes they
Avill lean entirely upon one leg. throwing their bodies to that side,
js o as to present nothing but the leg and thigh, on the other.—
In pursuit of the buffaloe, they will gallop down steep hills,
broken almost into precipices. Some of their horses are very
fine, and run swiftly, but are soon worn out, from the difficulty
of procuring food for them in winter, the smaller branches of
the cotton wood tree being almost the only fodder which they
give them. Their hunting is regulated by the warriors chosen
for the occasion, who urge on such as are tardy, and repress of¬
ten with blows, those tvho would rush on too soon. When a
herd of buffaloe is discovered, they approach in proper order,
within a half a mile, they then separate and dispose themselves,
so as^ in some measure, to surround them, when at the word,
they rush upon them at full speed, and continue as long as their
horses can stand it: a hunter usually shoots two arrows into a
buffaloe, and then goes in pursuit of another; if he kills more
than two in the hunt, he is considered as having acquitted him¬
self well. The tongue is the prize of the person who has slain
the animal ; and he that has the greater number, is considered
the best hunter of the day. Their weapons consist of guns, war
clubs, spears, bows, and iances. They have two kindsof arrows,
one for the purpose of the chase, and the other for war ; the lat¬
ter differs in this particular, that the barb or point is fastened so
slightly, that when it enters the body, it remains in, and cannot be
drawn out with the wood ; therefore, when it is not in-a vital part,
the arrow is pushed entirely through. They do not poison them.
Their bows are generally very small; an elk’s horn, or two ribs
of a buffaloe, often constitute the materials of which they are
made. Those of wood are of willow, the back covered with si¬
news. Their daily sports, in which, when the weather is favor¬
able, they are engaged from morning till night, are principally
of two kinds. A level piece of ground appropriated for the pur¬
pose, and beaten by frequent use, is the place where they are
carried on. The first is played by two persons, each armed with
a long pole ; one of them rolls a hoop, which, after having reach

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ed about two-tbirds of the distance,- is followed at half speed,
and as they perceive it about to fall, they cast their poles under
it; the pole on which the hoop falls, so as to be nearest to cer-
tain corresponding marks on the hoop and pole, gains for that
time. This game excites great interest, and produces a gentle*
but animated exercise. The other differs from it in this, that
instead of poles, they have short pieces of wood, with barbs at
one end, and a cross piece at the other, held in the middle with
one hand ; but instead of the hoop before mentioned, they throw
a small ring, and endeavor to put the point of the barb through
it. This is a much more violent exercise than the other.

With respect to their religion, it is extremely difficult, parti¬
cularly from the slight acquaintance I had with them, to form any
just idea. They have some notion of a Supreme Being, whom
they call a the Master of Life,” but they offer him no rational
worship, and have but indistinct ideas of a future state. Their
devotion manifests itself in a thousand curious tricks, of slight of
hand, which they call magic, and which the vulgar amongst them
believe to be something supernatural. They are very superstitious*
Besides their public resident lodge, in which they have a great
collection of magic, or sacred things, every one has his private
magic in his lodge about his person. Any thing curious, is im¬
mediately made an amulet, or a talisman; and is considered as
devoted or consecrated, so as to deprive them of the power of
disposing of it. The principal war chief lately took advantage
of this, ingeniously enough. He obtained a very fine horse*
which he was desirous of keeping, but fearing that some one
might ask him as a gift, and to refuse would be considered
as evincing a narrowness of mind unbecoming a great man,
who ought not to set his heart upon a matter of so little im¬
portance, he announced that he had given him to his magic.— *
Some parts of their religious exercises are the most barbarous
that can be imagined. I observed a great number whose bodies
were scarred and cut in the most shocking manner ; I was inform¬
ed that this was done in their devotion ; that to shew their zeal,
they sometimes suspend themselves by the arms or legs, or the
sides, by hooks. I was shewn a boy, who had drawn two buffa-
Tqh heads by cords drawn through the fleshy part of his sides,

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nearly a quarter of a mile. I might enumerate a variety of other
particulars, in which this strange self punishment is carried to
the greatest lengths. They have frequent holy days, when the
greater part of the village appears to desist from labor, and dress
out unusually line. On these occasions, each One suspends his
private magic on a high pole before his door; the painted shields,
quivers of a variety of colors, scarlet cloth, and highly ornament¬
ed buffaloe robes, which compose those trophies, produce a ve¬
ry lively effect. 1 several times observed articles of sortie va¬
lue, suspended in the woods. I was told they often leave their
property in this manner, without being under any apprehension
that any of the same tribe will touch it, provided that there be
the least sign to shew that it is not lost. A kind of superstition
similar to that of the Druids, which protected their offerings
hung up in the woods.

Since the affair of lieut Prior, whb commanded the party
despatched by the United States, to take home the Mandan chief,
these people have been friendly to the whites. They speak of
the occurrence with regret, and declare that it was done by bad
people whom they could not restrain.

To give an account of the vices of these people would be to
enumerate some of the more gross, prevalent amongst us.—
The savage state, like the rude uncultivated waste, is contem¬
plated to most advantage at a distance. They have their rich
and their poor, their envious, their proud, overbearing, their
mean and grovelling, and the reverse of theses In some respects
they appear extremely dissolute and corrupt — whether the re¬
sult of refinement, or vice, or the simplicity of nature, I am not
able to say. It is part of their hospitality, to offer the guest,
their wife, sister, or maid servant, according to the estimation,
in which the giiest is held, and to refuse, is considered as treat¬
ing the host with contempt. It appeared to me while we re¬
mained at the village, that their females had become mere ar¬
ticles of traffic : I have seen fathers bring their daughters, bro¬
thers their sisters, and husbands their wives, to be disposed of
for a short time, to the highest bidder. I was unable to account
for this strange difference from all other people I had ever read
of, unless from the inordinate passion which seized them for

s i

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'238

our merchandise. Chastity appeared to be unknown as a virtue.
Yet this may not have been universal; a more minute acquain¬
tance with these people, might have enabled me to explain this
strange phenomenon. From the remnant of a singular custom
"which prevails amongst them, one might suppose that this had
not always been the case. On a certain occasion, a great num¬
ber of young girls were collected before the medicine lodge or
temple, prices were exhibited, and a cedar bough was Stuck on
the lodge ; the old men who reside in the temple, proclaimed,
that whoever Was yet a virgin, should come forward and touch
the bough, and take the prize; that it was in vain to think of de¬
ceiving, the manitbu would reveal every thing ; the young men
were moreover required to declare against any one who should
attempt it, all they knew. A young metiff, daughter of the in¬
terpreter, a beautiful girl of sixteen, came forward, but before
she could ascend to touch the bough, a young fellow stepped
out and bade her remember a certain place ! She withdrew, con¬
fused and abashed. Thete Was a pause for a considerable time ;
I began to tremble for the maidens of Arikara, when a girl
of seventeen, one of the most beautiful in the village, walked
forward and asked, “ where is the Arikara who can boast of
having received favors from me V9 then touched the bough, and
carried off the prize. I feel a pleasure in adding, for the honor
of the ladies of Arikara, that others followed, though I did not
take the trouble of noting the number.

Seeing the chief one day in a thoughtful mood, I asked him
what was the matter— I was wondering” said he « whether
you white people have any women amongst you.” I assured
him in the affirmative. “-Then” said he, “ why is it that your
people are so fond of our women, one might suppose they had
never seen any before?”

JOURNAL*-

CHAPTER VII.

Wednesday 19 th. It was resolved this morning by Mr. Li¬
sa, to leave one of his men to continue the trade with the Ari-
karas, and continue his voyage. As part of the price of the
goods bought from Mr. Hunt, was to be paid in horses, a. party
was sent by land to the Mandan fort, for tne purpose of bringing
them. Mr. Bradbury being desirous of seeing the interior of
the country, accompanied them.

Set off from the village about eleven o’clock, the wind fa¬
vorable, but the weather rainy and disagreeable. Having made
about fifteen miles, we encamped. The musketoes are more
troublesome than I have known them. I am informed that this
is not the case every year.

Thursday 2 Oth. Weather more pleasant, but the wind for.
a part of the afternoon contrary. The river is rising rapidly,
it is at present at a very high stage. Having made five points,
encamped.

Friday 2\st. Setoff under sail, with a fine breeze,, which
continued the whole day. Made upwards of forty miles. The
country improves — handsome green hills, and fine bottoms.

Saturday 22 d. A continuance of favorable wind, but the riv¬
er crooked. At ten, landed to kill some buffaloe — they are nu¬
merous on the sides of the hills.

Sunday 23 d* Bad weather — contrary wind, and violent
storms. In the evening it cleared up: the wind continuing so
as to prevent us from proceeding, we landed and went in pur¬
suit of some buffaloe. The whole surface of the country appear¬
ed covered with them. I continued the chase four or five miles
from the river, in the middle of a very romantic country.

Monday 24 th. Proceeded this morning with delightful wea-.
ther, the sky clear, and of a most enchanting blue. Continued,
the greater part of the day, with the cordelLe, along the prairie.
The country on either side, of a very pleasant appeargpee, and
a number of wooded points.

journal;

#60 '

Tuesday 25th. Sailed this morning with a slight breeze.?^
At ten, passed an old Mandan village; apd at some distance
above, saw a great number of Mandan Indians on their march
along the Prairie. They sometimes go on hunting parties by
whole villages, which is the case at present; they are about five
hundred in number, some on horseback, some on foot, their tents
and baggage drawn by dogs. On these great hunting parties,
the women are employed in preserving the hides, drying the
meat, and making a provision to keep. Very little of the buffa-
loe is lost, for after taking the marrow, they pound the bones,
boil them, and preserve the oil. This evening the Mandan
chief, She-he-ke, who was in the United States, came to us with
his wife Hearing of our approach, he had set off for the pur-
pose. Encamped on a prairie of a very rich soil. The coun¬
try is very fine op both sides of the river. There are some high
hills.

Wednesday 2 6th. In the course of the day, passed by the
Mandan villages, with a favorable wind, and arrived late at night,
at the fort of the company, 1640 miles from the mouth of the
Missouri.

We remained here until the sixth of July. Mr. Bradbury
had already arrived. He describes the country at the distance
of eight or ten miles from the river, as very handsome ; a conti¬
nued succession of meadows, with some wood along the water
courses: on approaching the river, it becomes more broken and
hilly.

We made several excursions to the villages below, and to
the interior of the country, but as they afford but little new, I
shall not give any detail of them. In the neighborhood of the
fort there are a number of clay hills, washed into the most curi¬
ous shapes, by the frequent rains, generally of a whitish color,
though intermixed with strata of various hues. Sfome of them
resemble clouds, being circular, and detached: at the first glance
they look like buildings. On some of them there is a beautiful
creeping vine, pr evergreen, which Mr. Bradbury informs me,
is described by Michaux, as growing on the lakes. There are
great quantities of petrified wood scattered about: I traced a

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261

whole tree ; the stump was more than three feet high, and at
lea-'.t four in diameter. This is a very extraordinary fact, in a
country where the trees are every where small.

On the fourth of July, we had something like a celebration
of the day ; the two principal chiefs happened to be with us — -
The borgne is one of the most extraordinary men I ever knew.
The description of Abelino might give some idea of this man.
He sways with unlimited control, all these villages, and is some¬
times a cruel and abominable tyrant In stature he is a giant,
and his one eye seems to flash with fire. I saw him on one or
two occasions, treat She-he-ke with great contempt — Mr. Lisa
citing something which She-he-ke expressed, “ what” says the
other, does that bag of lies pretend to have any authority here.”
She-he-ke is a fat man, not much distinguished as a warrior, and
.extremely talkative, a fault much despised amongst the Indians.

On a visit to the village , I saw a great number of small scaf¬
folds scattered over the prairie, on which human bodies were
exposed. The scaffolds are supported with four forks, and suf¬
ficiently large to receive one or two bodies. They are covered
with blankets, cloth of different colors, and a variety of offerings.
In this they are different from the Arikaras, who bury their dead
as we do.

On the sixth of July, we set off from the fort, to return to
the Ankara village, where we arrived two days after, without
any remarkable occurrence. On our arrival, we found Mr. Hunt
waiting the arrival of the Chiennes, to complete his supply of
horses. We continued here about ten days, Mr. Manuel Lisa
having concluded to send two of his boats, with peltries, Mr.
Bradbury who was desirous of returning, gladly embraced the
opportunity. The boats were accordingly put under my com¬
mand, with six men in each.

Two mornings before our departure, a great commotion was
heard in the village, before daylight. We rose to discover the
cause, and found that the war party, of about three hundred
men. were within a short distance of the village, on their return,
after a battle with the Sioux the evening before, in which two or
-three were killed, and as many wounded. All the relations of

262

JOURNAL.

those engaged, came out of the village to meet them. I accom¬
panied them about a mile and an half. They advanced in a kind
of procession, which moved slowly, with some regularity ; each
band separate, and sung its song. Some carried the scalps on
poles* others the sacred standards, which consisted of a large
bow and a spear, both beautifully ornamented. The scene which
took place, would be worthy the pen of a Fenelon; the meeting
of those connected by the most tender relations, was truly affect¬
ing. The whole would baffle description ; I was touched with
the tenderness of a woman, who ran to meet her son, a youth
badly wounded, but who exerted himself to keep on his horse,
and from his countenance, one would have supposed nothing
had been the matter. The young man died almost as soon as
he arrived at the temple, for it is the custom to carry those who
have been wounded on these occasions to this place, to be taken
care of at the public expense. As they approached the village,
the old men who could hardly walk, whose voices were ex¬
tremely shrill, came out singing their songs also, and rubbing
the warriors with their hands. The following day was spent in
festivity by the village in general, and in grief by those who had
lost their relations.

Towards the last of July, with glad hearts, we set off, to re¬
turn once more to civilized life, after more than four months ab¬
sence from it. My orders were to go day and night if possible,
and not to stop for any Indians. The water was extremely high,
and with the assistance of six oars, we were able to make little
short of twelve miles an hour. The first day we passed the
Chienne river, and went some time after night, but considering
this something dangerous, I landed and continued until daylight.
The next morning we reached the Great Bend, a vast number
of buffaloe were to be seen on all sides, and the most tremend¬
ous bellowing from the bulls, as this was about the time of
their mixing with the herds of cows, for they generally stay
in separate herds. The country this, far is beautiful, the
points sufficiently wooded, and the bottoms fine. The wind
becoming high, we were compelled to lie by the whole of:
the afternoon, in the Great Bend. On the north west side,
it is bounded the whole of the way by bluffs, nearly bare,

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263

affording but a scanty vegetation of sand cherries, gooseberries,
and dwarf plum trees. The next day we passed White river,
where the black bluffs begin— -a barren and miserable country
nearly an hundred miles ; there are scarcely any bottoms, and
the bluffs in most places without even grass. In some places
the hills rise to the height of mountains it frequently afford¬
ed me amusement to see the herds of buffaloe ascending these
hills by a winding path. In the evening we were compelled to
land in a little recess of the bluffs, there being appearances of ah
approaching storm : we were not disappointed. The continued
and vivid flashes of lightening, and peals of thunder, shaking
the solid earth, were succeeded by a tremendous storm. The
winds blew with such violence, as to threaten our boats ; fbr ah
hour, we were obliged to protect the sides with wet blarikets,
to prevent them from filling, while it rained on Us incessantly
the whole night. The next day we passed the Poncas village.
The Indians were absent in the plains. The islands are gene¬
rally fine thus far, and excepting the tract between the White
river, and the Qui Courre, there are many delightful spots,
though the bottoms are mostly prairie, and the upland with lit¬
tle or no wood.

In the evening, near a point above isle a Bon Homme, our
attention was awakened by a tremendous noise. On landing,
we discovered the woods literally swarming with buffaloe, a
herd of males had come amongst a number of females. The
noise which they made is truly undescrinable. On the hills in
every direction, they appeared by thousands. Late in the even¬
ing we saw an immense herd running along the sides of the
hills in full speed ; their appearance had something in it, which,
without incurring ridicule, I might call sublime-— their foot¬
steps resembled the roaring of distant thunder.

The next day we passed the Maha village, and had a most
extraordinary run of forty-five leagues, from sun to sun. From
the Qui Courre, to the Mahas, the bottoms are wider and bet¬
ter wooded than above, but the upland much the same. We
found them almost every where overflowed ; we were obliged
to encamp on some driftwood— the musketoes tormenting us
the whole night.

JouteAt.

The following day we passed the Blackbird hill, and the riv^
er Platte. The navigation in this part is much more dangerous
than above, from the number of trees fixed in the bottom. The

bottoms are much wider thm above, and better wooded ; in
some places for twenty miles and upwards, we were out of sight
■of the high lands : but the low grounds were every where over¬
flowed. The water rushed into the woods with great velocity*
and in bends it poured over the gorge into the river again $ a
sheet of water sometimes i'or a mile, flowed over the bank.

in something better than two days afterwards, we arrived at
Fort Clark, having come a thousand miles in eight or nine days,
without meeting a living soul. Here We were treated politely
by the officers. Mr. Sibly, the factor, had returned but a few
days before, from a journey to the interior, and shewed us spe¬
cimens of salt, which he had procured at the salines, on tho
Arkansas.

We arrived at St. Louis early in August, having made four¬
teen hundred and forty miles in little better than fourteen days.

ifOtJRNAL,

A TABLE

6f DISTANCES FRO 14 THE MOUTH 6F THE MISSOURI T@ THE
HA.NDAN VILLAGES— RIVERS — LATITUDES, &C.

Places,

Width of Side of tiist-
Mivers . Mis’ri ance.

Tot.

Pis

Latitude,

fett Charles

N. E.

38° 5^

Osage R. (Little) .

. ••

30 yds.

N E,

Charles* creek

S. W.

-A f.

Shepherd’s creek .

i ■

s, tv.

Gasconade R. . *

;

157

S. IV.

100

38° 457

Muddy R. .

2f. E .

Great Osage

397

S. IV

133

38° SF

Marrow creek

•

s. tv.

Cedar creek & island

N. E .

Lead Mine hill

s. m

Hamilton’s creek

•

s. w.

Split Rock creek ,

N . E.

170

Saline or Salt R.

s. tv.

Manitou R .

N. E.

Oood Woman’s R. »

N. E.

Mine R.

s tv.

200

Arrow prairies

S. IV.

The Charitons

Ancient village of the Mis-"]

N. E.

souri Indians hear which
formerly stood F Orleans, j

> "

N. E.

Grand R.

N. E.

240

Snake creek

$f. E .

Ancient village of the Lit- }
tie Osage Indians. )

s. w \

256

Tiger creek 8c island

N. E.

A crhek and islafid

s, tv.

fire prairie Sc creek

■ 4 '■

s. tv.

Fort Clark (or Osage)

s. tv.

306

it.

Places.

Width.

Side.

Pis.

T.D

i Lai.

Hay Cabin creek

s . IV.

Coal bank . .

S. IV.

Blue. Water R. . , . .

S. IV.

Kansas R. ...

233

S. IV.

340

39° 03

Little R« Platte

N. E.

1. Old Kansas village

S. TV.

tfr

Independence creek

%S. IV.

2'. Old Kansas village .

s. "w.

St. Michael’s prairie

tt:

X. E.

Nodawa R. .

X. E.

450

39° 40*

Loup or Wolf R.

S. TV.

Big Nimeha

S. T V.

Tarkio creek

23.

x. e.

Nish-na-botona

X. E.

508

Little Nimeha

6. TV.

Bald-paled prairie — the riv-^

er Nish-na-botona is at this

place not more than 150 yds

X. E .

.23

from the bank of the Mis’r.^

Weeping- water creek

S. TV.

River Platte . . . .

600

S. TV.

600

Butterfly creek . .

S. TV.

Musketoe creek

N. E.

Ancient village of Ottoes

S. TV.

do. of Ayuwas

N. E.

- R.

X. E.

Council Bluffs

S. TV.

650

41° 17*

Soldier’s R.

N. E.

Little Sioux

X. E.

44 '

Bad Spirit R.

S. TV.

788

A bend in the river, 20 miles

809

round Sc but 900 yds. across

An island 3 miles N. E. of}

836

Floyd s village. y

Floyd’s river Sc bluff

X. E .

85Q

JOURNAL*

267.

Places.: Width.

Side.

Dist . TD.

• Lat.

Bis*; Sioux R. . . * .

Comlnencthnent of the Co-']

1 10

#■ E.

'853.

38° mti

bell, Alufn and Copperas J>

$. nr.

. 27

880

,, It

C-blUfFs. j

Hot Or Burning bluffs ,

S. IV.

ft ; . .

White Stone R,

X. E.

ryttj

An old village at the mouth }
of RittleJBdw creek 5

: u ;

s. vy.

filif ft 1 .

'(rjqnpjdC

River a Jaque, or James R.

N. E.

950

42° 53'*

Calumet bluff

S. TV.

Ancient fortification, £

Good Man’s Isle 5

S. TV.

976

Plumb creek

X. E.

White Paint creek

S. TV.

Qui Courre creek

150

S. TV.

1000

Poncas river 8c village

S. TV.

The village of dog prairies

S. TV.

The island Cedar

White River . . . .

300

S. TV.

1130

The 3 rivers of the Sioux

jy, e.

An island in the upper part r

of the Big Bend 5

S. TV.

Upper part of the Big Bend £
the gorge \\ mile across 5

S. TV.

Tyler’s R.

S. TV.

1208

L’Oiselle’s post, Cedar isl’d

44° 12'

Titon R.

The upper part of five old")

S. TV.

record villages of Arikaras
reduced by tjie Sioux J

E. TV.

Chienne R. 400

S. TV.

1310

44° 20'

Olu Record village

Ser-war-cerna

S . TV.

1397

Waterehoo . . 120

S. TV.

1422

45° 35'

Old village on an island .

S. TV.

JOURNAL.

Places.

Width .

Side.

J Dist,

T.T):‘

La&i

Ankara, 2 villages

S. IV

Stone Idol creek

« 18

N . E.

Warecore

»-*•

Cannon-ball R.

. 140

S. IV.

1500

46° 29*

Old Mandan village

S. IV.

do. — #. ,#

s. w.

4«Q

Mandan village

8. w.

1600

47° 13^

Company's fort *

■ , * :

1640

APPENDIX

EXTRACT FROM HUMBOLDT’S NEW SPAIN— Vo l. II,
Pages 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, & 119, ’20, ’21, ’22, ’23, & 171, 72, ’73, ’74,

(No. 1.)

THE only ancient monuments in the Mexican valley, which
from their size or their masses can strike the eyes of a Euro¬
pean, are the remains of the two pyramids of San Juan de Teoti-
huacan, situated to the north-east of the lake of Tezcuco, conse¬
crated to the sun and moon, which the Indians called Tonatiuh
Ytzaqual, house of the sun, and Metzli Ytzaqual, house of the
moon. According to the measurements made in 1 803 by a young
Mexican servant, doctor Oteyza, the first pyramid, which is the
most southern, has in its present state a base of 208 metres*
(645 feet) in length, and 55 metres (66 Mexican vara,f or 17 i
feetf) of perpendicular elevation. The second, the pyramid of
the moon, is eleven metres§ (30 feet) lower, and its base is much

* 682 'feet English. Tram,

f Velasquez found that the Mexican vara contained exactly 31 inch¬
es of the old pied du roi of Paris. The northern facade of the Hotel des
invalides at Paris is only 600 feet French in length.

$ 180 feet English. Trans ,

§ 36 feet English, Trm$

APPENDIX,

sro

less. These monuments, according to the accounts of the first
travellers, and from the form which they yet exhibit, were the
models of the Aztec teocallis. The nations whom the Spa¬
niards found settled in New Spain attributed the pyramids of
Teotihuacan to the Toultec nation ■;* consequently their con¬
struction goes as far back as the eighth or ninth century ; for the
kingdom of Tolula lasted from 667 to 1031. The faces of these
edifices are to within 52' exactly placed from north to south, and
from east to west. Their interior is clay, mixed with small
stones. This kernel is covered with a thick wall of porous
amygdaloid. We perceive, besides, traces of a bed of lime which
covers the stones vthe tetzontli) on the outside. Several authors
of the sixteenth century pretend, according to an Indian tradi¬
tion, that the interior of these pyramids is hollow. Boturini
says that Siguenza, the Mexican geometrician, in vain endeavor¬
ed to pierce these edifices by a gallery. They formed four lay¬
ers of which three are only now perceivable, the injuries of time,
and the vegetation of the cactus and agaves having exercised
their destructive influence on the exterior of these monuments.
A stair of large hewn stones formerly led to their tops, where,,
according to the accounts of the first travellers, were statues
covered with very thin lamina of gold. Each of the four prin¬
cipal layers was subdivided into small gradations of a metref in
height, of which the edges are still distinguishable, which were
covered with fragments of obsidian, that were undoubtedly the
edge of instruments with which the Toultec and Aztec priests
in their barbarous sacrifices (Pafiahua Tlemacazque or Teo -

* Siguenza, however, in his manuscript Cotes, believes them to be
the work of the Olmec nation, which dwelt round the Sierra cle Tlasca-
la, called Matlacueje. If this hypothesis, pf which we are unacquainted
with the historical foundations, be true, ihese monuments would be still
more ancient. For the Oimecs belong to the first nations mentioned in
the Aztec chronology as existing in New Spain. It is even pretended
that the Oimecs are the only nation of which the migration took .place*
not from the north and north-west (Mongol Asia ?) but from the east
(Europe ?).

f 3 feet 3 inches. Trans.

APPENDIX.

2 7,1

fiixqui ) opened the chest of the human victims. We know that
the obsidian (itztli) Was the object of the great mining under¬
takings, of which we still see the traces in an innumerable quan¬
tity of pits between the mines of Moran and the village Atoto-
nilco el Grande, in the porphyry mountains of Oyamei and the
Jacal, a region called by the Spaniards the mountain of knives,
el Cerro de las Navajas.*

It would be undoubtedly desirable to have the question re*
solved, whether these curious edifices, of which the one, ( the
Tonatiuh Ytzaqual •>) according to the accurate measurement
of my friend M- Oteyza, has a mass of 128.970 cubic toises,t
were entirely constructed by the hand of man, or Whether the
Touitecs took advantage of some natural hill which they cover¬
ed over with stone and lime. This very question has been re¬
cently agitated with respect to several pyramids of Giza and
Sacara ; and it has become doubly interesting from the fantas¬
tical hypotheses which M. Witte has thrown out as to the ori¬
gin of the monuments of colossal form in Egypt, Persepolis,
and Palmyra. As neither the pyramids of Teotihuacan, nor that
Qholula, of which we shall afterwards have occasion to speak,
have been diametrically pierced, it is impossible to speak with
certainty of their interior structure. The Indian traditions, from
which they are believed to be hollow, are vague and contradic¬
tory. Their situation in plains where no other hill is to be found,
renders it extremely probable that no natural rock serves for a
kernel to these monuments. What is also very remarkable
(especially if we call to mind the assertions of Pococke, as to the
symmetrical position of the lesser pyramids of Egypt) is, that
around the houses of the sun and moon of Teotithuacan we find
a group, I may say a system of pyramids, of scarcely nine or ten
metres of elevation. | These monuments, of which there are

* I found the height of the summit of the Jacal 3 124 metres
(10.248 feet;) and la Roccade las Ventanas at the foot of the Cerro de
las Navajas, 2.590 metres (8.496 feet) above the level of the sea.

f 33.743.201 cubic feet. Trans *

4 29 or 32 feet. TrccnS.

272

appendix::

several hundreds, are disposed in very large streets which f6t*
low exactly the direction of the parallels, and ol the meridians**,
and which terminate in the four faces of the two great pyramids.
The lesser pyramids are more frequent towards the southern!
side of the temple of the moon than towards the temple of the
sun and, according to the tradition of the country, they were
dedicated to the stars. It appears certain enough that they serv¬
ed as burying places for the chiefs of tribes. All the plum
which the Spaniards, from a word of the language of the island
of Cuba, call Llano de los Cues , bore formerly in the Aztec
and Toultec languages the name of Micaotl , or road of the
dead. What analogies with the monuments of the old continent !
And this Toultec people, who, on arriving in the seventh cen¬
tury on the Mexican soil, constructed on a uniform plan several
of those colossal monuments, those truncated pyramids divided
by layers, like the temple of Belus at Babylon, whence did they
take the model of these edifices ? Were they of Mongol race l
Did they descend from a common stock* with the Chinese,
the Hiong-nu, and the Japanese ?

Another ancient monument, worthy of the traveller’s atten¬
tion, is the military intrenchment of Xochicalco, situated to the
S. S. W. of the town of Cuernavaca, near Tetlama, belonging
to the parish of Xochitepeque. It is an insulated hill of 11 7
metres of elevation, surrounded with ditches or trenches, and
divided by the hand of man into five terraces covered with ma¬
sonry. The whole forms a truncated pyramid, of which the four
faces are exactly laid down according to the four cardinal points.
The porphyry stones, with basaltic bases, are of a very regular
cut, and are adorned with hicroglyphieal figures, amohg which
are to be seen crocodiles spouting up wrater, and, what is very
curious, men sitting croos-legged in the Asiatic manner. The

* See a work of Mr. Herders : Idea of a Philosophical History of the
human species, Vol. II. page 11, (in German,) and Essay towards a Uni«
V.ersal History, by M. GaUerer, page 4pp., (in German.)

Appendix.

2TQ

platform of Ibis extraordinary monument** contains paore than
9.000 square metres,! and exhibits the ruins of a small square
edifice, which undoubtedly served for a last retreat to the
besieged. :q f

The table-land of La Puebia exhibits remarkable vestiges of
ancient Mexican civilization. The fortifications of Tlaxcalian
are of a construction posterior to that of the great pyramid of
Gholula, a curious monument, 6f which 1 shall give a minute
description in the historical account of my travels in the interior
of the new continent. It is sufficient to state here, that this py*
i’amid, on the top of which I made a great number of astrono¬
mical observations, consists of four stages ; that in its present
state the perpendicular elevation is only 54 metres,! and the hof
rizontal breadth Of the base 439 metres ;§ that its sides are very
exactly in the direction of the meridians and parallels, and that
it is constructed (if we may judge from the perforation made a
few years ago in the north side) of alternate strata of brick and
clay. These data are sufficient for our recognising in the con¬
struction of this edifice the same model observed in the form of
the pyramids of Teotihuacan, of which we have already spok¬
en. They suffice also to prove the great. analogy j| between these
brick monuments erected by the most ancient inhabitants of Aoa~
huac, the temple of Belus at Babylon, and the pyramids of
Menschich-Dashour, near Sakhara in Egypt.

* Description be las antiguedades de Xochicalcd dedicada a los Sfe-
nores de la Expedicion iriaritima baxo las or denes de Don Alexandra
Maiaspina, por Don Jose Antonio Alzate, Mexico, 1791, p. X2.\

f 96.825 square feet. Trans,

t 1 77 feet. Trans.

§ 1.423 feet. Trans.

H Zoego de Obeliscisi p. 380; Voyages de Pococke , f edition de JVauf-
bhatel, J 1752, tom. i p. 156 and 167:;' Voyage de 'JJeho-n, 4*.o. edit. p. 8fi.
194. and 237 i Grobert Description dee Pyramides , p. 6. and 12,

s. 1

274

APPENDIX.

Th’e platform of the truncated pyramid of Cholula hasa sur¬
face Ot 4.^06 square metres.* In the midst of it there is a church
dedicated to Nuestra Senora de los fiemedios, surrounded with
cypress, in which mass is celebrated every morning by an eccle¬
siastic of Indian extraction, whose habitual abode is the sum¬
mit of this monument. It is from this platform that we enjoy
the delicious and majestic view of the Volcan de la Puebla, the
Pic d’OriZaba, and the small cordillera of Matlacueye,f which
formerly separated the territory of the Cholulans ■ from that of
the Tlascalte'c republicans.

the pyramid, Or teoealli, Of Cholula, is exactly of the same
height as1 the Toriatiuh Itzaqual of Teotihuacari, already describ¬
ed; arid it is three metres! higher than the Mycefinus, Or the
third Of the great Egyptian pyramids of the group of Ghize. — ■
As to the apparent length of its base, it exceeds that of all the
edifices of the same description hitherto found by travellers in
the old Continent', arid is almost the double of the great pyramid
known by the name of Cheops Those who wish to form a clear
idea of the great mass of this Mexican monument from a com¬
parison With objects more generally known, may imagine a
square* four times' the dimensions of the Place Vendome, cover¬
ed with a heap of bricks of twice the elevation of the Louvre !
The whofe of the interior of the pyramid of Cholula is not, per¬
haps, composed ol brick These bricks, as was suspected by a
celebrated antiquary at Rome, M. Zoega, probably form merely
an incrustation of a heap of stones and lime, like many of the
pyramids of Sakhara, visited by Pococke, and more recently by
M. Grobert. Yet the road from Puebla to Mecumeca, carried
across a part of the first stage of the teoealli, does not agree witli
this supposition.

* 45.208 square feet English. Trans.

f Called also the Sierra Malinche , or Dona Maria. Malinche ap¬
pears to be derived from Maiintzin^ a word (I know riot why) which is
now the name of the Holy Virgin.

i 9.8 feet. Trans .

APPENDIX.

275

We know not the ancient height of this extraordinary mo-
Burnt nt. In its present state, the length of its base* is to its per¬
pendicular height as 8 : i ; while in the throe great pyramids
of Ghize, this proportion is as 1 ^ and -1 T7^ to 1', or nearly as
8 to 5 We have already observed that the houses of the sun
and moon, or the pyramidal monuments of Teotihuacan north¬
east from Mexico, are surrounded with a system of small pyra¬
mids arranged symmetrically M- Grobert has published a ve¬
ry curious drawing of the equally regular disposition ,pf tjie

* I shall here subjoin the true dimensions of the tihree great pyra¬
mids of Ghize, from the interesting work of M. Grobert. tl sli^ld place
in adjoining columns the dimensions of the brisk pyramidal monuments
of Sakhara, in Egypt, and of Teotihuacan and Cholula, in Mexico. The
numbers are French feet. (A French foot == 1.066 English.}

Height.
Length
of Base.

Stone pyramids.

Brick pyramids-

Cheops.

Cephren.

Mycerinus.

Of Five
Stages in ’
Egypt, near
Sakhara. <

Of Four

Me?

Teotihu¬
acan :

Stage's in
dco..

Cholula..

44'8 .

728

.>98

655

162

280

150

210

171

645 s

172

1355

It is curious to observe. 1 That the people of Anahuac have had the
intention of giving the height and the double base of the Tonatiuh Itzta-
qual to the pyramids of Cholula; and, 2. That the greatest of all the
Egyptian pyramids, that of Asychis, of which the base is 800 feet in
length, is of brick and not of stone. ( Grobert , p. 6.) The cathedral of
Strasbourg is eight feet, and the cross of St. Peter, at Home, 41 feet low¬
er than the Cheops. There are in Mexico pyramids of several stages,
in the forests of Papantla, at a small elevation above the level of the sea,
and in the plains of Cholula and Teotihuacan, at elevations surpassing
those of our passes in the Alps. We are astonished to see in regions the
most remote from one another, and under climates of the greatest diver¬
sity, man following the same model in his edifices, in his ornaments, in
his habits, and even in the form of his political institutions.

APPENDIX.

small pyramids which surround the Cheops and Mycerinus at
Gh z e. The teocaili of Choiuia, if it is aliovvabie to compare it
with these great Egyptian monuments, appears to have been
constructed on an analogous plan. We still discover on the
western side, opposite the cerros of Tecuxete and Zapoteca, two
completely prismatical masses. One of these masses now bears
the name of Alcosac, or Istenenetl, and the other that of the
Gerro de la Cruz The elevation of the latter, which is con¬
structed en fiise', is only 15 metres. *

In the northern part of the intendancy of Vera Cruz, west
from the mouth of the Rio Tecolutia, at two leagues distance
from the great Indian village of Papantia, we met with a pyra¬
midal edifice of great antiquity. The pyramid of Papantia re¬
mained unknown to the first conquerors. It is situated in the
midst of a thick forest, called Tajin in the Totonac language.-.-
The Indians concealed this monument, the object of an ancient
veneration, for centuries from the Spaniards ; and it was only
discovered accidentally by spme hunters about thirty years ago.
This pyramid of Papantia was visited by M. Dupe,t an observer
of great modesty and learning, who has long employed himself
ip cqrious researches regarding the idols and architecture of
the Mexicans. He examined carefully the cut of the stones of
which it is constructed ; and he made a drawing pf the hierogly¬
phics with which these enormous stones are covered. It is to
be wished that he would publish the description of this interest¬
ing monument. The figuref published in 1788, in the Gazette
pf Mexico is extremely imperfect.

The pyramid of Papantia is not constructed of bricks or clay
mixed with whin stones, and faced with a wall of amygdaloid^
like the pyramids of Choiuia and Teotihuacan: the only mate-

* 49 feet. Trans.

f Captain in the service of the king of Spain. He possesses the bust
in bassaltes of a Mexican priestess, which I c- mpioyed MM as sard to en¬
grave, and which bears great resemblance to the Calanthica pf the heads
of Isis.

* See also Monument z di Architettura Messicana di Fietro Marquez,
•Eoma, 1804, tab. L

APPENDIX.

rials employed are immense stones of a porphyr ideal shape — •
Mortar is distinguishable in the seams. The edifice, however,
is not so remarkable for its size as for its symmetry, the polish
of the stones, and the great regularity of their cut The base
of the pyramid is an exact square, each side being 25 metres*
in length. The perpendicular height appears not to be more
than from 16 to 20 metres f This monument, like all the Mex¬
ican teocallis, is composed of several stages. Six are still dis¬
tinguishable, and a seventh appears to be concealed by the vege-
tation with which the sides of the pyramid are covered. A great
stair of 57 steps conducts to the truncated top of the teoeaili,
where the human victims were sacrificed. On each side of the
great stair is a small stair. The facing of the stories is adorned
with hieroglyphics, in which serpents and crocodiles carved in
relievo are discernible. Each story contains a great number of
square niches symmetrically distributed. In the first story we
reckon 24 on each side, in the second 20, and in the third 16 —
The number of these niches in the body of the pyramid is 366,
and there are 12 in the stair towards the east. The Abbe Mar¬
quez supposes that this number of 378 niches has some allusion
to a calendar of the Mexicans ; and he even believes that in each
of them one of the twenty figures was repeated, which, in the
hieroglyphical language of the Toultecs, served as a symbol for
marking the days of the common year, and the intercalated days
at the end of the cycles. The year being composed of 1 8 months,
of which each had 20 days, there would then be 360 days, to
which, agreeably to the Egyptian practice, five complementary
days were added, called nemontemi. The intercalation took
place every 52 years, by adding 13 days to the cycle, which gives
360 -f 5 -f 13=378, simple signs, or composed of the days of
the civil calendar, which was called comjiohualilhuitl , or tonal-
fiohuaili , to distinguish it from the comiikuitlajiohualliztli. or
ritual calendar used by the priests for indicating the return of
sacrifices. I shall not attempt here to examine the hypothesis

* 82 feet. Trans.

| From 52 to 65 feet. Trans ;* . ..

APPENDIX.

of the Abbe Marquez, which has a resemblance to the astrono-
mical, explanations given by a celebrated historian* of the num¬
ber of apartments and steps found in the great Egyptian laby-s
rinth,

THE MOfJND NEAR SULTZERTOWN, M. T,

(No. 2.)

I have been favored by my friend the Rev. Mr. Schemer-
horn with an account of a mound near Sultzertown., M. T.

“ At. Sultzertown, M. T. six miles from Washington, is a
very remarkable Indian mound, and in every respect different
from any 1 have seen in Ohio, or Kentucky. It is not like those
raised on a plain, or the river alluvia, but the land around it, is
very uneven or rolling, and from the gradual descent of the
ground from its very base, we should be naturally led to con¬
clude, that here they had taken advantage of the natural position.
Instead of raising with much labor, this huge pile of earth, they
have had little else to do than by levelling, to form the mound
agreeably to their designs.

“ Its form is a parallelogram, whose sides bear the propor¬
tion to each other of two to three, and measured at the outside
of the ditch, contains more than six acres. The first elevation
is forty feet, the area of which may contain four acres. On the
west side of the parallelogram, about the middle is a circular
mount, whose diameter is fifty feet, and which measures from
the base eighty-six feet. Opposite to it on the east end, is a
similar mount, whose height is fifty feet, but appears to have
been considerably higher. The north and south sides which
are the longest, have each three or four lesser elevations, but
which are considerably washed down, the whole of the mound
having been frequently ploughed, and many a valuable crop rais¬
ed on it; but were originally, I suppose, at least ten feet above
the first elevation. The whole surrounded by a deep ditch,
which, particularly at the E and VV sides is still very percepti¬
ble. On the S. and N. sides are the passages out and in.

* M. Gatterer.

APPENDIX.

279

Whether this was ai place of defence against an enemy, or
a place devoted to religious worship, I shall not undertake to
determine. This, « we may affirm with safety, that whatever of
these theories we adopt, however visionary this may appear to
some, many things plausible may be said on each. That it was
admirably calculated as a place of defence no one can doubt,
who considers its extent, its height, its ditch, particularly of pa-
lisadoed and military works erected on the highest mounds or
towers. If we suppose it dedicated to purposes of devotion,
and the people to be worshippers of the heavenly bodies, the
first species of idolatry, the different heights of the mounds,
and their situation, would lead us to conjecture, that the high¬
est was consecrated to the sun, the next to the moon, and the
lesser ones to the stars; but When we find that this has been the
idolatry of some of the aborigines, is there not a foundation for
the conjecture?

“ Human skeletons have been found in many of those
mounds. Mr. Griffin, the owner of the Sultzer mounds, inform¬
ed me, that his sons some few years since, had brought some of
the bones of a human skelemn, particularly the head and bones
of the leg, which they discovered in this mound, on one of its
sides where the earth had been Washed away. The skull, he ob¬
served, was uncommonly large,* the bones of the leg and thigh
much longer and larger than of common men, and that he sup¬
posed the skeleton, which unfortunately was never taken up eii%
tirely, but immediate orders given to re-deposit the bones, would
have measured between six feet six inches and seven feet. It
is worthy of remark, that du Pratz mentions that the Natchefc
(who according to their tradition came from the west,) deposit¬
ed the remains of their sons or chiefs, in the part of the tern-

* It is difficult to account for the enormous size of the skeletons
found in the western country. Are they only of extraordinary individ¬
uals, or do they prove a race of men of a larger size than any existing
at the present day? nothing is more common than to find skeletons of
this unusual size. There was for a long time preserved at fort Chartres
a skull of an astonishing magnitude; and 1 have seen a jaw bone which
I could with ease pass over my face, and leg bone which reached three;
inches above my knee from the ground.

£8G APPENDIX.

pic where was kept the eternal fire. If we suppose this mound
to have been a place consecrated to purposes of worship, might
lif t the foregoing fact account for the finding skeletons in some
of them, without supposing the original design mere deposito¬
ries of the dead.

“ That there are mounds of these different kinds is highly
probable; but 1 see no reason why we may not suppose, some
©f the largest of them, to have been designed for all these pur¬
poses. The altars of religion, however absurd, may be the theo¬
logy of some nations, yet superstition, if no purer principle, will
render these dear to them as their lives If so, it was necessa¬
ry that in the early ages such places should be secured and de-
fended. It is not uncommon to read in history, of nations who
kave made their last stand against their enemies in their tem¬
ples, and around their altars.

“ And again, there is a principle in human nature to shew
respect to great and good men, even after their spirits have re¬
turned to him who gave them. This has been instanced in al¬
most every nation. I shall only allude to the practice amongst
the British, of shewing respect to departed greatness and merit,
by placing their monuments in Westminster abby. We also
find that amongst Christians, as a mark of respect to their de¬
parted pastors, the placing their remains beneath the pulpit. —
This is not the case amongst civilized nations only, it has most
.probably been the custom from the earliest ages.”

(No. 3.)

Communicated by the rev. Mr. Mills .

AT Sultzertown, near Washington, in the Mississippi terri¬
tory, there i£ an ancient fortification. It is in the form of a pa¬
rallelogram, including between three and four acres measured
at the base. The mound was raised 46 feet above the common
level of the ground; near the middle of the west line was rais¬
ed a large mound of a circular form, 40 feet above the first level
©f the fortification, making the distance from the top of the
* mound 86 feet above the common level of the ground. The
tpp of this amotind had been ploughed and somewhat worn down*

APPENDIX.

281

It was six or eight paces across it, had it been carried up to a
point, as most likely it originally was, or nearly so, it would
have increased the height of the mound 30 or 40 feet, which
latter number added to the 86 feet, its present height, would
make it 126 feetj above the ground at the base. When the pre¬
sent proprietor took possession of his plantation, upon which
the fortification stands, about 20 years ago, the country around
was timbered and covered with lime brakes.

There was at that time no timber growing upon the fortifi¬
cation of more than a foot diameter, opposite the high mound
on the west line was another mound, on the east, but not so
high, about 50 feet above the common level of the ground.

In the middle of the north and south lines were the appear¬
ances of ways to ascend and descend the fortification ; on each
side of these apparent pass ways, was a moUnd, rising not more
than 10 feet above the fortification, but near 50 above the level
of the ground around. There was remaining part of the way
round the base, a ditch, in some places, at the time 1 saw it, near
near 20 feet deep. Human bones of a large size have been
found near the mound.

(No. 4.)

The following interesting account of a part of the Missis
sippi country is extracted from a letter to the editors* dated
Natchez, Mississippi Territory, Jan. 12, 1813.

MAD1SONTVILLE

Is handsomely situated on the west bank of the river Tche-
fonta, which rises and runs into lake Ponchartrain in the parish
of St. Tammany, in the state of Louisiana. At present this tbwm
has little more than the name, attached to an elegant, healthy,
and eligible spot of ground for a seaport town. About half a
dozen French built mud walled huts, and about as many log hou¬
ses or cabins, and two or three small frames are all its present
improvements.

* National Intelligencer— attributed to Dr. Ferry of the tl S. Navv.

M 1TR

APPENDIX.

Jf8 2

Correctly to appreciate the advantages of the situation ol
M'adisonvilie, its terraqueous vicinity must be understood. The
land east and west from this place along the borders of the lake
is a sandy flat, extending from five to twenty miles from their
shores, and nearly as level as the still ocean which seems to
have receded from it: this fbat coast is the termination of the in—
elided plain, with a southern exposure, extending from near the
Mississippi to Pearl river, and from about lat. 31, 30, N. to the
lakes: it is pleasantly diversified with pine covered plains and
ridges, which alternate with rich low grounds or intervals, from
half aTnile to two miles in breadth, on all the numerous streams
which* dissect it. The largest and most westwardly of these
streams is the Amite river, which interlocks its western branch¬
es with1 the waters of the Homochitto, Bayou Sarah, and Thomp¬
son’s1 creek, which is the last considerable creek that feeds the
Mississippi from the east. The Amite receives at Galvastown
the Bayou Manchaique, an outlet in time of high water from the
Mississippi, add loses its name in a round lake called Maure-
pas, which is about nine miles in diameter. The next stream
eastward is the Tiefau, which has its source a few miles north
of the old Spanish line in lat. 3 1 ; like tne Amite, it inclines to
the east of south in its course, and, after receiving its main
branch, the Talbany, and its minor branch the Ponchartoula,
both from the east, it also empties into lake Maurepas. The
Waters of lake Maurepas enter by a straight called the pass of
Manchaique into lake Ponchartrain, which lies between the san¬
dy coast of the continent and the river made island of Orleans.
Tanchipohee creek rises several miles further north than the
Tiefau, and interlocks with the eastern branch of the Amite; in
its course, which is nearly south, it receives numerous small
streams, and mouths into lake Ponchartrain, three miles east of
Manchaique Pass : a bar at its mouth obstructs its navigation.
The Tchefoata and Bouge Falia have their uttermost springs
near together about twelve miles south of lat. 31 ; their courses
are nearly parallel till they unite about three miles ft. eastward
from Madisonville. Bouge Falia receives from the east, little
Bouge Falia, on the south bank of which is an elegant range of
barracks and officers’ houses, sufficient for a regiment of men.

APPENDIX.

which have been built, and occupied by the United States5
troops: they are now vacant. Bouge Chitto is next in size to
Amite river, with the waters of which its higher branches in¬
terlock; it rises west of north from Madisonvillc, which place
it approches in its course, but turns to the east and enters Pearl
river; between which, and the river Tchefonta several small
creeks and bayous rise and fall into lake Ponchartrain, but they
are inconsiderable in point of size or extent.

The lakes are but the, continued channel of the united wat¬
ers of the Amite and the other streams from this coast ; their
current has been sufficiently strong to defend their shores from
the annual deposits of alluvia by the Mississippi, in greater or
less degrees at different points: hence the inequalities of the
width of the lake : lake Maurepas is properly the lake of the
Tiefau. The Mississippi has extended its delta around the
mouths of these waters, and has finally bound their weakenecl
current close to the coast, left them but a narrow straight, call¬
ed the Regulee, through which as they pass they mingle with
the waters of Pearl river, and flow into the gulph of Mexico,
about 50 miles S. E. from Madisonvillc.

Lake Ponchartrain is said to be about thirty miles wide and
about sixty miles long: it has an even sandy bottom, which
seems to be a continuation of the inclined plain of the coast, gra¬
dually descending till it reaches the southern shore, which is
characterized by a muddy bottom, and a marshy, swampy mar¬
gin.

The tides of the lakes depend entirely on the winds, and are
consequently irregular, ebbing and flowing as it changes, and
rising occasionally from one to six feet.

The channel of the Regulees admits vessels with seven feet
draft of water; and any vessel that can pass the Regulees may
safely navigate the lakes. When the Mississippi is high, any
vessel that can safely enter the fakes may descend Bayou Man-
chaique, and also the pass of that name between the lakes.

The river Amite is sufficiently large for boat navigation at
the junction of its east and west branches a few miles below lat.
31 Galvastown is situated on its S. E. bank, below the mouth
of bayou Manchaique.

284

APPENDIX.

The Tiefau, Talbana, and Ponchartoula, are capable of boat
and small schooner navigation. Springfield or Bookter’s land¬
ing, is situated on the W. bank of the Talbana, about ten miles
from lake Maurepas.

The Tanchepehoe is accessible for boats but is unfavorable
for schooner navigation.

The Tchefonta is a wide and handsome little river, afford¬
ing a safe harbor and navigation for any vessel that can be sailed
through the Regulees. Schooner navigation extends several
miles up the eastern branch, culled Bouge Falia, on the west
bank of which a town is laid off by the name of St Jack ; and
several buildings are erected.

Madisonville is favorably situated for the coasting and West.
India trade, having about two days sail in going put, and about
twp weeks sail in coming in, the advantage of New Orleans: it
lies more convenient to the necessary supplies for repairing
and building vessels; it is believed to be a more healthy situa¬
tion, less infested with musketoes, and furnished with good
spring water.

Madisonville is situated two miles from the mouth of the
river Tchefonta; about 30 miles N. of New Orleans; about 30
miles E. from Springfield; about 70 miles E. from Baton Rouge ;
and about 80 miles E. by. S. from St. Francisvilie, at the mouth
of the b«you Sarah, in the state of Louisiana. It lies about 80
miles E. S E. from Woodville, the seat of justice in Wilkinson
county ; about 1 10 miles S. E. from the city of Natchez ; about
60 miles S. E. from the seat of justice in Amite county ; about
<90 miles S. by W. from New London or Monticellp, on Pearl
river; about 65 miles S W. from New Columbia, in Marion
county ; about 140 miles W. S. W. from fort Stoddert, and about
110 miles W. from Mobile town, in the Mississippi territory.
These are the conjectured distances on rectalineal directions;
for there are few or no roads leading towards M idisonville.
The Old King?s road, as it is called, leading in a direction from
Baton Rouge to the bay of St. Lewis a few miles E. from the
Regulees, crossed thp river Tciufonta about half a mile -above
.the Cockle bank, now the site of Madisonville.

APPENDIX.

283

The United States’ troops cut a road from the vicinity of
Tchefonta in a direction to fort Stoddert ; but the water and the
swamp obstructions on it rendered it almost useless, except in
very dry weather ; and the great hurricane of August last, has
completely blocked it up as well as every other road approach¬
ing Madisonville ; and the police laws, weak and unsettled in
consequence of the many and recent changes of government,
have not co-operated with public spirit to clear them out.

The country within 20 or 30 miles of the Mississippi, is ge¬
nerally a broken, rich land, thick wood country, with a heavy
undergrowth of cane, &c. The low grounds of the many
streams running towards the lakes, are extremely fertile; and
above the flat woods, the low grounds of which are too moist
for cultivation, it is believed by the inhabitants, that sugar cane
may be cultivated to perfection and advantage; and recent ex¬
periments strengthen that opinion. Upland rice is grown in
great perfection, and may be rendered a very profitable culture
on these iow grounds. On the second rate low grounds, and
first rate piney lands, wheat grows finely and yields a heavy
grain : it is harvested early in May : but wheat is an uncertain
crop, on account of the rains and wind which are apt to prevail
about the season of its blossoming ; and it is subject to a rust.
Indian corn grows as finely and yields as well as in any part of
the United States, Tennessee and Kentucky excepted. This
country is inferior to none for the culture of upland cotton, and
is superior to any in the United States for the production of
cornfield peas, sweet potatoes, and pompions. The piney plains
and ridges afford excellent water, pleasant and healthy situa¬
tions, and luxuriant and abundant pasturage.

Madisonville is understood to be chosen by the agents of the
Navy Department for repairing, and even building of small ves¬
sels of war for the southern station ; and it seems peculiarly
adapted to these purposes s the vicinity abounds with oak, pine,
and cypress : here also tar is made in abundance, with as great
facility as in any part of the union : the spun hemp, or rope yarn
of Kentucky, may be brought as cheap to this harbor as to any
other, and the rigging may be laid to order at the navy yard
with the greatest economy and advantage to the public serjjjceV

236

APPENDIX.

Provisions will also be furnished here of as good a quality and,
as cheap as in any other seaport: the country between the Pearl
and Mississippi rivers is extremely favorable to the growth of
hogs : and cattle are reared to as great perfection, and perhaps
to as great an extent, on the waters of Pearl river, and particu¬
larly in the Choctaw nation of Indians, as in any part of the U.
States.

Why, it may be asked, have not the singular advantages of
this place sooner manifested themselves? The French were
the first, and for many years the only civilized inhabitants in the
vicinity of Tchefonta Enterprise is not one of the characteristic
traits of the Louisiana French. A few small fields and mud wall
houses, are the most of their improvements in this neighbor¬
hood. The burning of shell lime and charcoal, making tar and
raising cattle, and carrying the product of their labor to the Or¬
leans market, were generally the exient of their pursuits. At¬
tempts at commerce must have proved futile, as there were no
country settlements to support them; the neighboring country
Was still within a few years past inhabited only by Choctaw In¬
dians.

The country back of Madisonville now sustains a very consi¬
derable population ; but there being no roads to accommodate
an intercourse, its trade is diverted into other and unnatural
channels. The capitalist will not place his stock on a coast
where there arc no roads to facilitate trade; and th« inhabitants
of the country have little inducement to make roads towards a
pjace where they have little or no advantages of commerce.—
The only measure necessary to insure an influx of capital to Ma¬
disonville, and to make it gradually assume the rank of a re¬
spectable seaport town, is the making of two or three good
roads in proper directions through the flat woods, to the high
and hard lands of the adjacent country. And with a capital to
invite it, the natural advantages of this place would insure it the
trading seaport of a country larger in extent tnan the state of
Connecticut, and capable of sustaining an equal or greater agri¬
cultural population.

The land in the vicinity of Madisonville, with very fe w ex¬
ceptions in favor, of old Spanish and French titles, belongs to the

APPENDIX.

United States; it is therefore confidently hoped that when the
peculiar properties of this port shall more fully unfold them¬
selves to the view of the government, it may be considered ex¬
pedient to cause good roads to be made at the public expense,
over the public lands, in proper directions to favor and facilitate,
commercial intercourse between the town and country.

(No. 5.)

HAVING spoken of the Trappists in my account of the
mounds in the American bottom, I here subjoin a description
which was published in the St. Louis paper, and which, contrary
to my wishes, I have understood gave great offence to the good
fathers.

The buildings which the Trappists at present occupy, are
merely temporary : they consist of four or five cabins, on a
mound about fifty yards high, and which is perhaps one hun¬
dred and fifty feet square. Their other buildings, cribs, sta¬
bles, be. ten or fifteen in number, are scattered about on the
plain below. I was informed that they intended to build on the
terrace of the large mound ; this will produce a fine effect, it will
be seen five or six miles across the plain, and from some points
of view ten or twelve. They have about one hundred acres en¬
closed in three different fields, including the large mound, and
several others.

On entering the yard, I found a number of persons at work,
some hauling and storing away the crop of corn ; others, shap¬
ing timber for some intended edifice. The greater number
were boys from ten to fourteen years of age. The effect on my
mind, was inexpressibly strange, at seeing them pass and repass
each other in perfect silence. What force must it require to
subdue the sportive temper of boyhood ! But nothing is so
strong as nature. I admired the cheerful drollery of a mulattoe
lad, with one leg, who was attending the horse mill : as the other
boys passed by, he generally contrived by some odd trick or
gesticulation, to attract their notice, and commonly succeeded
in exciting a smile. It was a faint watery gleam of sun-shine,
which seemed to say, that their happiness was not entirely ol>

APPENDIX.

J8S

scured by the lurid gloom which the ingenuity of “ distempered
imaginations” had cast around. Good God, thought I, is it pos¬
sible that the gift which thou bestowedst, to distinguish us
amidst thy “ vast creation” should be thus despised; for without
speech, how could we ever communicate to each other, that we
possess reasoning powers-— -a manation of the divine essence ?
To make the highest virtue consist in silence , was reserved for
the Trappists.

Fatigued and chagrined at this scene, which I contemplated
apparently unobserved, I ascended the mound which contains
the dwellings. This is nearly 25 feet in height: the ascent
rendered easy by a slanting road. I wandered about here for
some time, in expectation of being noticed by some one ; it was
in vain that I nodded to the reverend fathers, or peeped into their
cabins How unaccountably the mind is sometimes affected !
I own I felt a kind of awe, for which I was unable to discover
the most distant cause. Perhaps were I to enter a Pagod for the
-first time, I might experience the same feeling. At length
seating myself upon a log, I amused myself with the appear¬
ance of the different figures as they silently passed, and indulg¬
ed my reflections. I had read of solitary monks, and had seen
them represented in paintings, but here they really existed. — ■
The recollection of the figure which this strange order of
men has made for so many centuries, in history, and in romance,
naturally awakened a variety of remembrances with their linked
associations. I admired with what rigid severity the good fa¬
thers banished from their heads, those ornamental locks be¬
stowed by nature, leaving one wandering tuft : a symbol of the
crown of thorns 1

I had the good fortune to be accosted by a young man, who
1 discovered to be in their employment as a kind of steward,
though not otherwise attached to the society. I experienced re¬
lief on being able to find one who was willing to speak: I made a
variety of inquiries of him, but to very little purpose : he was
however obliging, and promised to speak in my behalf to the
Principal. In a short time Father Joseph made his appearance ;
I learned that he had the government of the monastery in the
absence of Father Urbaift. He is a sprightly, and intelligent

APPENDIX.

289

xA&ii, and much to my surprise, talked with wonderful volubility.
Which excited in me almost as much surprise as Robinson Cru¬
soe in his island, felt, when his parrot addressed him. He invited
me into the watchmaker’s shop, for they carry on several trades,
to assist in supporting the institution. The shop was well fur¬
nished ; part was occupied as a laboratory, and library ; the lat¬
ter but indifferent ; a few medical works of no repute, and the
dreams of the Fathers, with the miraculous wonders of the world
of Saints. Several men were at work, and some boys busily
employed. One poor fellow, ten or twelve years of age, attract¬
ed my attention and pity. He was seated by a stove, mak¬
ing strokes on a slate, and appeared to have just risen from the
bed of sickness, or ratner from the tomb. Emaciated to the last
extreme, his face was pale, cold and bloodless, his lips purpled,
his sunken eye marked by a livid streak, and his countenance
overspread with a listless stillness. Had it not been for the fee¬
ble motion of his hand as he drew it over the slate, and the occa¬
sional raising of his heavy and languid eyelid, 1 could have be¬
lieved that the tenant of this sad and melancholy ruin, had gone
to seek a happier abode. I felt my heart swell in my breast.—
Alas ! poor lone creature, thou hast no mother, no sister, to watch
over thee with the tenderness and solicitude which none but a
mother or sister can feel! I was pleased when I saw Father
Joseph advance towards him with a tenderness and benignity of
countenance, which does not belong to a monks he endeavored
to cheer,him by speaking pleasantly to him, but the poor fellow
had lost the power of smiling ; his physiognomy was locked up
in rigid coldness, which nothing but returning health, or the
the warmth of parental affection could soften.

Father Joseph inquired whether I had dined, and being in-
formed in the negative, had something prepared Mv fare was
simple; consisting chiefly of vegetables; though not less accep¬
table for it was given with good will. Having returned thanks
to the Father for his hospitality, I took my leave,

I learned that the family of the Trappists consists of about
eighty persons, a considerable number of whom are not at home.
The boys are generally American ; the men principally Ger¬
man and French. They expect a considerable accession frojn

n n

£90 APPENDIX.

Europe. It is about a year since they have been fixed in this
place. Last summer proved fatal to five or six, and few esca¬
ped the prevailing fever. They deny the place to be unheal¬
thy, and say that those who died were chiefly old men; the mea¬
ger diet, and scanty nourishment, which is taken by such as have
made the vow, must certainly contribute. They first settled in
Kentucky, afterwards came to Fiorisant near St. Louis, and
from thence to their present residence. They are supposed
to be an industrious well meaning people, and I should be
willing to see them treated with respect, and even encourage¬
ment in all but one thing ; the education of children. This is
foreign from the original design of their institution, which is a
total exclusion from the world. Such a place is for a thousand
reasons not calculated for a school ; a boy brought up here to the
age of one and twenty, can never be fit for any thing but a Trap-
pist. It may be said that an asylum is here offered to those in
extreme distress — to those unfortunate wretches, who, aged and
friendless, are in danger of perishing of want. Happily for our
country such instances are rare indeed. Or for those unhap¬
py orphans, who may be exposed from their helplessness to be
without support, and to whom, inhuman barbarity may have de¬
nied a home and a protection. I may safely say that these are
as rare as the others. In America, it is not necessary as in Eu¬
rope, to give a fee with a boy who is bound apprentice to any
particular calling ; on the contrary there is scarcely any mecha¬
nic who will not gladly take him and teach him his trade for the
service which he may render, before the expiration of the ap¬
prenticeship

A brief history of this singular institution, may not be unen¬
tertaining. The monastery of La Trappe was situated in the
province of Perche in France: in one pf the most solitary spots
that could be chosen. It was founded in 1140 by Rotrou Count
of Perche. This monastery had fallen into decay, and its dis¬
cipline much relaxed, when reformed by the Abbe Ranc6 1664.
Ranee had met with some misfortune, which rendered life hate¬
ful to him, some assert the sudden death of madam Montbazor,
whose favorite lover he was. He had been a man of fashion,
and possessed some pretensions to literature j he is said to have

APPENDIX.

291

translated the poems of Anacreon. Into this monastery, whith¬
er he came, he carried a reform of the most savage austerity. —
The vow was perpetual silence ; the miserable Trapp, 1st de¬
nied himself during his existence, every comfort of life. lie
laid himself on a stone, and was frequently called in the dead
of night to his devotions. His food was bread and water, and
this but once in the twenty-four hours. Each day he was to
remove from his intended grave one spadeful 1 of earth, in order
to keep ever present to ills mind that he must soon entirely
cease to be of this world. A French writer, (who is however,
influenced by enmity) observing upon this monastery, says—
C’est la '• qu'ils se retirent , ecu sc qui out cominis quelque crime se¬
cret dont les remords les poursuivent ; ceux qui sont tourmentt's
de vapeurs melancholiques el religie uses'.; ceux qui out oublic' qne
Dieu est le plus misd ricordieux cles pixres , et qui no voyent en liijy
cjue le plus cruel des tyrans , Ifc.

I think it unnecessary to give my opinion on the nature of
the institution — such institutions it must be acknowledged are
not treated with much respect in the United States; we can
hardly speak of them with candor, or think of them without pre¬
judice. It is true, this is the land of freedom and toleration,
•but it is also the land of good sense. Every one may pursue his
spiritual or temporal happiness, in what way he pleases ; but his
neighbors have also the liberty of laughing at him, if in the
pursuit of that happiness, he exhibits singularities which ap¬
pear to the rest of the world ridiculous.

(No. 6.)

The following articles of the treaty of ’63, raise a necessary
implication that France was the lawful owner of what is called
West Florida. It will be seen that the cession was in fact made
by France to Great Britain.

ARTICLE 7.

In order to re-establish peace on solid and durable' founda¬
tions, and to remove forever all subject of dispute with regard
to the British and French territories on the continent of Arne-

2 m

APPENDIX.

rica. It is agreed that for the future the confines between the
dominions of his Britannic majesty and those of his Most Chris¬
tian majesty in that part of the world, shall be irrevocably fixed
by a line drawn along the middle of the river Mississippi, from
its source to the river Iberville, and from thence by a line -drawn
along the middle of this and the lake Maurepas and Ponchar-
train, to the sea ; and for this purpose the Most Christian king
cedes in full right and guarantees to his Britannic majesty , the
T-iver and port of the Mobile , and every thing whit h he possess¬
es or ought to possess on the L ft side of the river Mississippi ,
except the tow } oj New Orleans and tli$ island on which it is?
Situated , Cfc.

ARTICLE 20.

« His Catholic majesty cedes and guarantees in full right
his Britannic majesty, Florida, \yitn Fort St, Augustin, and the
bay Pensacola, us well as all that .Spain possesses on the con¬
tinent of North America, to the E. or to the S. E of the river
Mississippi, and in general, every thing that depends on the said
countries and lands, with the sovereignty, property, possession,
$nd all rights acquired by treaties, pi otnery/ise, which the Ca~
tholic king and craven of Spain bays had till now over the said
countries, lands, places, and their inhabitan s, so that the Catho¬
lic king cedes and nukes over the whole to the said king, and
to the crown of Great B- i am, &c.

This country must necessarily, therefore, have formed part
of Louisiana, and as such, appertained to France. Spain cedes
to France, by the treaty of' iidefonso, Louisiana as it had been
b : b) France, ^no not in the extent held by her at the time of
cession.

In the 2d chapter of the first book, there are some observa¬
tions w lich would seem to attach blame to the commissioners.
Bui 1 am induced 10 believe from further inquiry, that I have
merely taken up the popular opinion Gov. C aiborne has pro-
mised to favor me with the process verbal, which I will publish,
should this book ever be thought worthy of second edition.

APPENDIX.

293

(No. 7)

Extracts from the account of a journey from Fort Clarkson the

Missouri , to the Salines , on ihe Arkansas , by Mr. Sibly.

AFTER giving a number of medals to the Paunee chiefs*
and having various councils with them, Mr. Sibly, on the 4th
of June left their villages, and proceeded to the Little Osage
camp, on the Arkansas, about 75 miles south, and 16 east from
the Fanis, where he safely arrived on the llth, I remain¬
ed, says he, several days with the Osages, who had abundance
of provisions, they having killed 200 buffuloe within a few days.
Where they had their camp, the Arkansas was about two hun¬
dred yards wide, the water shallow, rapid, and of a red color.—
On the 16th, the Indians raised their camp, and proceeded to¬
wards the hilly country on the other side of the Arkansas.—
I continued with them about 50 miles west, and 30 miles east,
when we fell in with some men of the Chaniers band, who in¬
formed us that their camp was at no great distance, and the
camp of the Big Osage still nearer, in consequence, I determin¬
ed to pass through both on my way to the Grand Salines. Oh
the 21st, I rode S. 40 miles, E. 30, to the Big Osage camp;
nearly all the warriors were at war, or abroad hunting. I was
remarkably well treated by Young White Hair, and family, I
however, remained but one night with them. On the 22d, I rode
20 miles S. 15 E. to the Chaniers camp, where we arrived about
one o’clock. We were treated well by the head men, and in¬
deed, this is one of the tribes most attached to the Americans.
The chief’s name is Clermont. From hence forty miles to the
Grand Saline, which we reached early on the 24th. I hasten to
give you a description of this celebrated curiosity. The Grand
Saline is situated about 280 miles S. W. of Fort Osage, between
two forks of a small branch of the Arkansas, one of which washes
its southern extremity, and the other the principal one, runs
nearly parallel within a mile of its opposite side, ft is a hat’d
level plain of a reddish colored sand, and of an irregular or mix-,
-£■4 figure ; its greatest length is from N. W. to S. E. and its

APPENDIX.

294-

circumference full 30 miles — from the appearance of driftwood
that is scattered over, it would seem that the wnole plain is at
times inundated^ by the overflowing of the streams that pass near
it. This plain is entirely covered in dry hot weather, from two
to six inches deep, with a crust of beautiful clean white salt,
of a quality rather superior to the imported blown salt; it
bears a striking resemblance to a field of brilliant snow after a
rain, with a light crust on its top. On a bright sunny morning,
the appearance of this natural curiosity is highly picturesque.
It possesses the quality of looming or magnifying objects, and
this in a very striking degree, making the small billets of wood
appear as formidable as trees. Numbers of buffaloe werfc on the
plain. The Saline is environed by a strip of marshy prairie with
a few scattering trees, mostly of cotton wood. Behind, there is
a range of sand hills, some of which are perfectly naked, others
thinly clothed with verdure, and dwarf plum bushes, not more
than thirty inches in height, from which we procured abundance
of the most delicious plums I ever tasted. .The distance to a na¬
vigable branch of the Arkansas, about 80 miles, the country to¬
lerably level, and the water courses easily passed.

About 60 miles S. W. from this, I came to the Saline, the
whole of this distance lying over a country remarkably rugged
and broken, affording the most romantic and picturesque views
imaginable. It is a tract of about 75 miles square, in which
nature has displayed a great variety of the most strange and
whimsical vagaries. It is an assemblage of beautiful meadows,
verdant ridges, and rude misshapen piles of red clay thrown to¬
gether in the utmost apparent confusion, yet, affording the most
pleasing harmonies, and presenting in every direction an endless
variety of curious and interesting objects. After winding along
for a few miles on the high ridges, you suddenly descend an al¬
most perpendicular declivity of rocks and clay, into a series of
level fertile meadows, watered by some beautiful rivulets, and
here and there adorned with shrubby cotton trees, elms and ce¬
dars. These meadows are divided by chains formed of red clay,
and huge masses of gypsum, with here and there a pyramid ot
gravel. One might imagine himself surrounded by the ruins
©f some ancient city, and that the plains had sunk by some con-

APPENDIX.

295

vulsion of nature, more than 100 feet below its former level; for
some of the huge columns of red clay rise to the height of 200
feet perpendicular, capped with rocks of gypsum, which the
hand of time is ever crumbling off, and strewing in beautiful
transparent flakes along the declivities of the hill, glittering like
so many mirrors in the sum

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APPENDIX.

American enterprise.

‘[From the Missouri Gazette,']

(No. 8.)

WE last week promised our readers an account of the joiTV*
&ey of the gentlemen attached to the New York Fur Company^
from the Pacific Ocean to this place—- We now lay it before our
readers, as collected from the gentlemen themselves.

On the 28th June 1812, Mr. Robert Steuart, one of the part-
iners of the Pacific Fur Company, with two Frenchmen, Messrs.
Ramsey Crooks and Robt. M'Clellan, left the Pacific Ocean with
^despatches for New York.

After ascending the Columbia river 90 miles, John Day, one
of the hunters, became perfectly insane, and was sent back to
the main establishment, under the charge of some Indians; the
remaining six pursued their voyage upwards of 600 miles,
when they happily met with Mr. Joseph Miller, on his way to
the mouth of the Columbia; he had been considerably to the
south and cast, among the nations called Blackarms and Arapa-
hays, by the latter of whom he was robbed ; in consequence of
which, he suffered almost every privation human nature is ca¬
pable of, and was in a state of starvation and almost nudity whe-Q
the party met him.

They now had fifteen horses, and pursued their journey for
the Atlantis world, without any uncommon accident, until with-*
in about 200 miles of the Rocky mountains, where they unfortu*
nately met with a party of the Crow Indians, who behaved with
the most unbounded insolence, and were solely prevented from,
cutting off the party, by observing them well armed and con»
stantly on their guard. They however pursued on their track
six days, and finally stole every horse belonging' to the party.

Some idea of the situation of those men may be conceived^
when we take into consideration, that they were now on foot, and
had a journey of 2©00 miles before them, 1500 of which was en¬
tirely unknown, as they intended and prosecuted it considerably
south of Messrs. Lewis and Clark’s route ; the impossibility of
carrying any quantity of provisions on their backs, in addition $3
tfoeir ammunition, and bedding, will occur at first view?

Q o

APPENDIX.

228

The danger to be apprehended from starvation was immi¬
nent. They however put the best face upon their prospects?
and pursued their route towards the Rocky mountains at the
head waters of the Colorado, or Spanish river, and stood their
course E. S. E. until they struck the head waters of the great
river Platte, which they undeviatingly followed to its mouth.
It may here be observed, that this river for about 200 miles, is
navigable for a barge; from thence to the Otto village, within
45 miles of its entrance into the Missouri, it is a mere bed of
sand, without water sufficient to float a skin canoe.

From the Octo village to St. Louis, the party performed
their voyage in a canoe, furnished them by the natives, and ar¬
rived here in perfect health on the 30th of last month, (May).

Our travellers did not hear of the war with England until
they came to the Ottoes ; these people told them that the Shaw-
noe Prophet had sent them a wampum, inviting them to join in
the war against the Americans ; that they answered the mes¬
senger, that they could make more by trapping beaver than
making war against the Americans.

After crossing the hills (Rocky mountains) they happily fell
in with a small party of Snake Indians, from whom they pur¬
chased a horse, who relieved them from any further carriage of
food, and this faithful four-footed companion performed that ser¬
vice to the Otto village. They wintered on the river Platte,
600 miles from its mouth.

By information received from these gentlemen, it appears
that a journey' across the continent of N. America, might be per¬
formed with a wagon, there being no obstruction in the whole
route that any person would dare to call a mountain, in addition
to its being much the most direct and short one to go from this
place to the mouth of the Columbia river. Any future party
who may undertake this journey, and are tolerably acquainted
with the different places where it would be necessary to lay up
a small stock of provisions, would not be impeded, as in all pro¬
bability they would not meet with an Indian to interrupt their
progress— although on the other route more north, there are
almost insurmountable barriers/.

Messrs. Hunt, Crooks, Miller, M£Clelland, McKenzie, and
•about 60 men who left St. Louis in the beginning of March,

0 r

fin

-M

APPENDIX.

1811, for the Pacific ocean, reached the Ankara village on the
13th day of June, where meeting with some American hunters
who had been the preceding year on the waters of the Columbia
with Mr. Henry, and who, giving such an account of the route
by which they passed, as being far preferable in point of procur¬
ing with facility an abundant supply of food at all tithes, as well
as avoiding even the probability of seeing their enemies the
Black Feet, than by the track of captains Lewis 8c Clark; the
gentlemen of the expedition at once abandoned their former
ideas of passing by the falls of the Missouri, and made the ne¬
cessary arrangements for commencing their journey over land
from this place;

Eighty horses were purchased and equipped by the 17th of
July, and on the day following they departed from the Arikaras,
60 persons in number, all on foot except the partners of the
company. In this situation they proceeded for five days, hav¬
ing crossed in that time two considerable streams which joined
the Missouri below the Arikaras, when finding air' inland tribe
of Indians calling themselves Shawhays, but known among the
whites by the appellations of Chiennes, we procured from
these people an accession of 40 horses, Which enabled the gen¬
tlemen to furnish a horse for every two men. Steering about
W. S. W. they passed the small branches of Big river, the Lit¬
tle Missouri above its forks, and several of the tributary streams
of Powder river, one of which they followed up, they found a
band of the Absaroka or Crow nation, encamped on its banks,
at the foot of the Big Horn mountain.

For ammunition and some small articles, they exchanged all
their lame for sound horses with these savages ; but although
that this band has been allowed by every one who knew them,
to be by far the best behaved of their tribe, it was only by that
unalterable determination of the gentlemen to avoid jeopardiz¬
ing the safety of the party without at the same moment submit¬
ting to intentional insults, that they left this camp (not possess¬
ing a greater force than the whites) without coming to blows.

The distance from the ^Arikaras to this mountain, is about
450 miles over an extremely rugged tract, by no means furnish¬
ing a sufficient supply of water; but during the 28 days they

APPENDIX,-

Three days took them over to the plams of Mad river, (the
name given the Big Horn above this mountain) which following
for a number of days, they left it where it wTas reduced to 80 yards
in width, and the same evening reached the banks of the Colo¬
rado or Spanish river. Finding flocks of buffaloe at the end o£
the third day’s travel on this stream, the party passed a week
in drying buffaloe meat for the residue of the voyage, as in all
probability those were the last animals of the kind they would
meet with. From this camp, in one day, they crossed the di¬
viding mountain, and pitched their tents on Floback’s fork of
Mad river, where it was near 150 feet broad, and in eight days
more having passed several stupendous ridges, they encamped
in the vicinity of the establishment made by Mr. Henry, in the
fall of 1810, on a fork about 70 yards wide, bearing the name
of that gentleman ; having travelled from the main Missouri
&bout 900 miles in 54 days.

Here abandoning their horses, the party constructed canoes
and descended the Snake or Ky-eye-nem river, (made by the
junction of Mad river, south of Henry’s fork) 40u miles, in the
course of which they were obliged by the intervention of im¬
passable rapids to make a number of portages, till at length they
found the river confined between gloomy precipices at least 200
feet perpendicular, whose banks for the most part were washed
by this turbulent stream, which for 30 miles was a continual
succession of falls, cascades and rapids. Mr. Cook’s canoe had
split and upset in the middle of a rapid, by which one man was
drowned, named Antonie Clappin, and that gentleman saved
himself only by extreme exertion in swimming. From the re¬
peated losses by the upsetting of canoes, our stock of provisions
Were now reduced to a bare sufficiency for five days, totally ig¬
norant of the country where they were, and unsuccessful in
meeting any of the natives from whom they could hope for in¬
formation.

Unable to proceed by water, Messrs. McKenzie, McClelland
and Reed, set out in different directions, inclining down the idvr
er, for the purpose of finding Indians and buying horses. JVIiv

APPENDIX.

30 &

Crooks with a few men returned to Henry’s fork for those they
had left, while Mr. Hunt remained with the main body of the men,
in trapping beaver for their support. Mr. Crooks finding the
distance much greater by land than he had contemplated, return¬
ed at the end of three days, where waiting five more, expecting
relief from below — the near approach of winter made them de¬
termine on depositing ail superfluous articles, and proceed oil
foot. Accordingly, on the 1 Oth of Nov. Messrs. Hunt &; Crooks
set out, each with 18 men, one party on the S. side of the river.

Mr. Hunt was fortunate in finding Indians with abundance
of salmon and some horses, but Mr. Crooks saw but few and
in general too miserably poor to afford his party assistance f
thirteen days travel brought the latter to a high range of moun¬
tains through which the river forced a passage, and the banks
being their only guide, they still by climbing over points of roc¬
ky ridges projecting into the stream, kept as near it as possible,
till in the evening of the 3d Dec. impassible precipices of im¬
mense height put an end to all hopes of following the margin
of this water course, which here was no more than 40 yards
wide, ran with incredible velocity and was ivithal so foamingly
tumultuous, that even had the opposite bank been fit for their
purpose, attempt at rafting wonld have been perfect madness,
as they could only have the inducement of ending in a watery
grave a series of hardships and privations, to which the most
hardy and determined of the human race, must have found him¬
self inadequate. They attempted to climb the mountains, stift
bent on pushing on, but after ascending for half a day, they dis¬
covered to their sorrow that they were not halfway to the
summit, and the snow already too deep for men in their emaci¬
ated state to proceed further.

Regaining the river bank, they returned up, and on the third
day met with Mr Hunt and party, with one horse proceeding
•downwards ; a canoe was soon made of a horse hide and in k
transported some meat, what they could spare to Mr. Crooks’s
starving followers, who for the first 18 days after leaving the
place of deposite, had subsisted on half a meal in 24 hours, and
La the last nine days had eat only one beaver, a dog, a few wild
cherries, and old moccasin soals, having travelled during these
-27 days at least 550 miles. For the next four days, both par¬
ties continued on up the river, without any other support than
what little rosebuds and cherries they could find, but here they
luckily fell in with some Snako Indians, from whom they got
five horses, giving them three guns and some other articles for
the same. Starvation had bereft J. B. Provost of his senses en¬
tirely, and on seeing the horse flesh on the opposite side of the
river, was so agitated in crossing in a skin canoe, that he upset
it and was unfortunately drowned. From hence Mr. Hunt went
4n to a camp of Shosbonies abqut 90, miles above > where, pro-

APPENDIX.

SQ2

curing a few horses and a guide, he set out for the main Colum¬
bia, aciT>ss the mountains to the south west, leaving the river
where it entered the range, and on it Mr. Crooks and five men
unable to travel.

Mr. H. lost a Canadian named Carrier, by starvation, before
he met the Shy-eye-to-ga Indians in the Columbia plains ; from
whom getting a supply of provisions he soon reached the main
river, which he descended in canoes and arrived without any
further loss at Astoria, in the month of Februaiy.

Messrs. M’Kenzie, M’Clelland and Reed, had united their
parties on the Snake river mountains, through which they tra¬
velled twenty one days, to the Mulpot river, subsisting on an al¬
lowance by no means adequate to the toils they underwent dai¬
ly ; and to the smallness of their number (which was in all ele¬
ven) they attribute their success in getting with life to where
they found some wild horses ; they soon after reached the forks
called by captains Lewis and Clark, Koolkooske; went down
Lewis’s party, and the Columbia wholly by water, without any
misfortune except the upsetting in a rapid of Mr. M’Cleiland’s
canoe, and although it happened on the first day of the year, yet
by great exertion they ctung to the canoe till the others came
to their assistance, making their escape with the loss of some
rifles, they reached Astoria early in January.

Three of the five men who remained with Mr. Crooks, afraid
of perishing by want, left him in February on a small river on
the road by which Mr. Hunt had passed in quest of Indians, and
have not since been heard of. Mr. C. had followed Mr. H’s.
track in the snow for seven clays, but coming to a low prairie he
lost every appearance of a trace and was compelled to pass the
remaining part of winter in mountains, subsisting sometimes
on beaver and horse meat, and their skins, and at others, on their
success in finding roots. Finally on the last of March the other
only Canadian being unable to proceed was left with a lodge of
Shoshonies, and Mr. C. with John Day, finding the snow suffi¬
ciently diminished, undertook from Indian information to cross
the last. ridge, which they happily effected and reached. the banks
of the Columbia in the middle of April, where, in the beginning
of May they fell in with Messrs. Steuart and company, having
been a few days before stripped of every thing they possessed by
a band of villains near the falls. On the 10th of May, they ar¬
rived safe at Astoria, the principal establishment of the Pacific
Fur Company, within 14 miles of Cape Disappointment.

THE EM D

CONTENTS.

BOOK I.

TO THE READER . . . • • . . . * } 8

CHAP. I.

Discovery and first Settlement of Louisiana . . . • 9

CHAP. II.

Boundaries of Louisiana . , . 23

CHAP. III.

Face of the Country — Change which a part has probably under¬
gone — Climate— Extent and Importance . .... 2 7

CHAP. IV.

Lakes and Rivers . . . .36

A Table of navigable rivers in Louisiana — Extent of navigation , 51

CHAP. V.

Natural or Indigenous productions — Animal, Vegetable and Mi¬
neral . . 54

CHAP. VI.

A view of the Indian nations of Louisiana — Of the Indian trade
for furs, &c.— Of the Missouri and Mississippi ... 69

A Table of the Indian nations of Louisiana — Their trade, &c. . 85

CHAP. VII.

View of the country on the Columbia ..... 95

BOOK II.

CHAP. I.

Territory of the Missouri — Boundaries — Extent — Rivers— Gene¬

ral view . . $9

CHAP. II.

Soil — Face of the conntry, he. from New Madrid to the Missouri
— Forks of the Missouri . . . . . . . . 103

CHAP. Ill,

Climate — Diseases . . . . . . . . .111

CHAP. IV.

Political divisions — Inhabitants — Settlements— Population . , 112

CHAP. V.

Towns and villages . . . . . . . .119

•' CONTENTS,

CHAP. VI.

Historical Character of the ancient inhabitants— change of Cof*
ernment .. . -. - . •• * s 13$

CHAP. VII.

Lead Mines in the District of St. Genevieve — Mode of mining—
Produce, &c. * - * « >; *. •» '7 : 146

CHAP. VIII.

Resources— Agriculture — Manufactures — Trade K \ i 155

CHAP. IX.

State of Louisiana — Boundaries — General Surface, &c. 1 V 15/

LEVEES. « s. S V 175

CHAP. X.

Antiquities in the Valley of the Mississippi ^ ^ i 1$1

JOURNAL.

CHAP. I. „ . . . ■. y , i 199

CHAP. II, , , , . . •. . 207

CHAP. III. * > V b 219

CHAP. IV. 227

chap. v. 239

chap. vi. 247

CHAP. VII. . . . , . . 259

a table of distances, &c. . * 26$

APPENDIX.

p0. 1.) Extracts from Humboldt’s New Spain + * . i 269

(No. 2.) The mound near Sultzertown, M. T. * . » 278

(No. 3.) A communication from the Rev. Mr. Miller an the same 280
(No. 4.) Account of Madisonville, and a part of the Mississippi

Territory *. .. « . , 281

(No. 5.) A description of the Trappists . 287

(No. 6.) Articles of treaty respecting the boundaries of Louisiana 291,
(No. 7.) Extract from an account of Mr. Sibly’s journey, kc% . 293
(No. 8.) American Enterprise , ►. ' ' ... « 297

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